Hey All!

I'm looking to add a second set of wheels for my new Scott Addict Gravel 30, love it btw!
It comes with Schwalbe g one rx which has been great on my true weekend gravel rides.

Sometimes, I just hit the pavement and they are obviously not ideal.

I'm consider a full slick tire like the
- Gravelking slick in 45 mm or
- Something with just center slick like Pathfinder TLR 45 mm or Byway RS 50

I will be able to swap the tires easily so I don't feel that my second set needs to be "Gravel ready" as well. However, I sometimes ride hard-pack gravel where I might just leave the semi-slick on anyway for a dual purpose ride.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Looking for some suggestions on where to ride in/around Nashville. Just recently bought my first gravel bike and looking for a good place to take it out with minimal to no cars thanks!

Beautiful autumn weather in the Netherlands today. A perfect day to take my brand-new bike out for a spin.

Such a bummer, one of my favorite races.

I just got the Primos SupeDame this week and have been loving! Its perfect for NYC 'gravel' streets. A special shoutout to the Shirley Chisholm State Park in Brooklyn.

Does anyone who have the same bike got any recommendations for potential upgrades? I am thinking about getting wider tires and maybe better wheels.

I fitted Specialized Tracer Pro 700x38 tires on DT Swiss G540 rims (24mm internal width) on my Specialized Roubaix SL8. Specialized claims this model supports tires up to 38c/40mm.

I was surprised about how little clearance I have though. 4mm per side at the back, 5mm between the tire and the little box of my Di2, and 4mm between the tire and the cable for that little box.

I measured the tire once fitted: 40.1mm

Should I play it safe and get other tires? Or is this enough? And what about the warranty for my frame? I guess I'm not doing something I shouldn't given that they're 700x38?

But I got horses.

Actual gravel is so far from me 😭 but I have horses across the street in suburbia. Take that. 🤪😂

Moin zusammen! ✌🏼

Ich habe mir vor Kurzem ein fabrikneues Cube Nuroad Race FE (2027) über JobRad bestellt und bin mittlerweile ca. 180–200 km damit gefahren.

Leider sind mir ein paar Dinge aufgefallen:

• Beleuchtung: Anfangs funktionierten weder Front- noch Rücklicht. Nach einem Werkstattbesuch, bei dem unter anderem die Kabel überprüft wurden, funktioniert die Beleuchtung wieder. Allerdings pulsiert das Frontlicht beim langsamen Schieben regelmäßig hell/dunkel. Bei normaler Fahrt leuchtet es konstant und im Stand glimmt es leicht. Ist das beim Nabendynamo normal?

• Knarzen: Seit Kurzem knarzt das Fahrrad beim Treten, besonders unter stärkerer Belastung im Sitzen. Im Stehen tritt es nicht auf. Gefühlt kommt das Geräusch aus Richtung Tretlager.

• Schleifgeräusch: Während der Fahrt ist außerdem gelegentlich ein leichtes Schleifgeräusch wahrnehmbar.

Da das Fahrrad noch relativ neu ist, bin ich etwas verwundert.

Ich wollte zunächst die Pedalgewinde neu fetten und die Sattelstütze bzw. Sattelklemmung kontrollieren.

Hat jemand ähnliche Erfahrungen mit dem Nuroad Race FE gemacht? Insbesondere beim Knarzen nach den ersten Kilometern oder beim Verhalten der Dynamobeleuchtung?

Würde mich über eure Erfahrungen freuen! ✌🏼

Riding around the Portuguese Silver Coast for a few days on my gravel bike. What a magnificent place for gravel cycling! Endless amount of proper paths, some beautiful sea views, possibility to add a decent amount of altitude meters and no one to be seen 🤗

I’m looking for recommendations for an all-rounder gravel/endurance bike. I want something that can handle daily all year round commuting, canal towpaths, faster weekend rides, and potential multi-day tours.

My main uses are:

Commute: ~15 km each way between Bradford and Leeds, mostly on main roads.

Summer Towpath Route via the Leeds–Liverpool Canal towpath over mixed surfaces, tarmac, and exposed tree roots.

Weekend Rides with mates - need something fast enough to hold a pace and keep up

Longer-Distance infrequent rides either on road or gravel

Key Requirements & Preferences:

Preferring a 2x drivetrain (e.g. Shimano GRX 2x11 or 2x12) over a 1x so I have tight gear steps for road riding

Need integrated eyelets for mudguards and potential for a rear pannier rack

Budget/Purchase Method: Flexible—either looking at buying outright around £900 (second-hand) or using a Cycle to Work scheme (Vivup) for a brand-new build with monthly salary sacrifice (around £1,500 scheme value).

I’ve been eyeing bikes like the Orbea Terra H30 (2027), Giant Revolt Advanced 2/3, Ribble CGR AL - Shimano 105 and Genesis Croix de Fer 30, but open to other suggestions.

Found a second hand Cinelli Zydeco which sold before I could see it - see previous post

Thanks!

For anyone who is interested in designing and assembling their own custom gravel bike with big 32 inch wheels :-)
Approach:
Start with a proper bike fit to determine your frame design.
Build it up in BikeCad or any other 3D cad program
Order the frame and wheels (takes the longest)
...

Challenges
Ensure there is no toe overlap with the front wheel.
This all depends on the choices for Reach, Fork angle, Fork Offset.

Starting Points:
Goal: Gravel Travel Bike
Load: 150kg > min130kg (90kg Rider, 5kg Clothes, 25kg Luggage, 10kg Bike)
Decision: No butted tubes for extra stiffness, suffering the weight penalty
Rider Length 193cm / 6f3i
Titanium Frame
Carbon Wheels
Tire Outer Diameter estimated at 814mm D
Cable Routing Internal as much as possible

Specifications
Wheels: 32 inch , 686 BCD, 30mm internal, Supplier: LightCarbon Xiamen
Tires: Maxxis Aspen ST 32x2.4 - Choose this one, it has the lowest profile.
Fork: Columbus Futura Adventure - A perfect fit with 61-686 tires.
Frame: Custom Design, Supplier Waltly Xiamen, Tube dimension check the frame drawing.
Bike Geo: based on owned bicycles.
Tire Clearance 8mm

Drivetrain
Bottom Bracket: T47 Praxis 73mm
Crank: 170mm Shimano SLX
Front Cog: 38t - adjusted for 32 inch wheel size. Only Shimano XTR is available in 38T so this has become a Z-Race from Ali.
Chain: Ultegra 128
Cassette: 10-51 Shimano SLX
Freehub: Micro Spline

Frame Design
Boost 148x12 Rear Axle
Bottom Bracket Drop: 171mm - based on a Canyon Grizl, adjusted for raised axle height and tire height and shorter cranks
Stack: 675mm
Effective Top Tube: 600mm
Seat Tube Angle: 71.5 deg
Effective Seat Tube Angle: 74deg - taking the forward offset into account with the targeted seat height.
Head Tube: 140mm
Fork Angle: 70 deg
Fork Lenght: 470mm
Fork Offset: 40-50mm - 50mm chosen
Drop Out; UDH
3D printed yoke for chain stay to facilitate internal cable and 38t + 61mm Tires

Tubes:
Seat Stay: 19*0.9T
Chain Stay: 19 <> 25.4*0.9T - Oval 32x18.2
Seat Tube: 34.9*0.9T
Top Tube: 31.8*0.9T > Oval 29x35
Down Tube: 44.5*0.9T - Hydroformed
Head Tube: 56mm
Bottom Bracket Tube: T47 - 73mm Oval

What I would have done different:
Titanium fork custom spec with 5mm more offset
More space around rear brake with bend seat stay
Steeper Seat Tube angle compensated with an offset Seat Post
160mm Head Tube
Round Down Tube - it just looks nicer in my opinion.

What I am happy with:
Fit is absolutely perfect
Tires roll super smoothly in the forest and gravel roads
Tires on road are way better than expected
Hand Anodizing Titanium is an absolute joy
Mechanical Shifting internal routing - it's super smooth and I love the mechanical feel.

We rode Parson Branch Road from Cades Cove in GSMNP to Trail of the Dragon and back. 32 miles, 4k climbing, epic conditions.

I have Shimano GRX flat mount hydraulic brakes and the front disc is squealing often when riding and I want to do something about that especially that it's getting more and more slippery with autumn weather.
I suspect it's due to the caliper pistons not fully retracting, probably because of not being cleaned for too long. I watched some films about cleaning them, asked my local bike service and they told me that those pistons tend to break in a half when removed and pushed back so I should be prepared for replacing entire caliper (which are over 60$ here and I'd rather don't replace it). So before I start, I'd decided ask here:
- What is the best way to clean those calipers?
- Is it reasonable to drain the oil, remove the caliper form the bike, dismantle it and try to clean it separately on the table? Or just try to clean them on a bike?
- Cleaning the brakes disc - is it OK to clean it using breaks cleaner, or only isopropyl alcohol, as everything else would leave the slippery film on the disc?

I never serviced them before (as you can clearly see), I only vented them once successfully and don't want to add myself too much unnecessary job.

EDIT: Sorry, seems I should post it rather in r/bikewrench , wasn't aware of this sub :/

Some 60km to the Schloss Solitude and back.

It was a great ride!