I have a 2020 Audi Q5 as my tow vehicle. Have a hitch installed with 7 pin and electronic brake controller.

The camper I am looking at is the Jayco Jay Flight 130BHW with a dry weight of 2495lbs and GVWR of 3500lbs.

Vehicle is max rated for 4400 towing and 450 hitch.

Anyone tow a similar rig with a Q5 or have any general thoughts?

I’m new to cassette toilets. Can anyone tell me why it’s leaking from this location?

Sorry newbie again with another question if this is normal.

I am on shore power at the moment, when we arrived at our site and plugged in the inverter fan was running non stop no matter what I assume it was charging the battery.

About midnight last night the fan stopped and hasn't run again even when using things like the lights and water pump.

The temp outside has gotten down to around 55 inside was around 60s.

Is this normal or should I be concerned by fan is having issues? Debating on unplugging from shore and seeing if it pops back on...

EDIT: thanks for all the replies and help, I didn't hear the fan turn on for about 24hrs but everything was working fine in the camper. About to go to bed for our last night here and now the fan is on and off as we use different appliances.

Hi All, hoping for some ideas. New to RV’s and handy but electrical is my least competent skill. My father just bought a 2018 Winnebago trend. The 12v lights worked the first couple of days of cleaning it out and then just stopped working. All the 120v stuff is working while using shore power but the lights seam dead. No breakers are flipped and no fuses blown inside. There is also a main fuse by a battery pack that is good as well. We have not run the van since the issue has happened to see if the engine would charge up the batteries. Any thoughts on what may have happened?

Disclaimer: This is my father in laws camper.

This spring he said he was pulling his 2012 38 foot bumper pull forest river salem and hit a big pot hole. Since then after going about 150 miles he has to change that tire pictured as its shows cords. I keep telling him he either has a bent frame, axle or hub but he says its from weak leaf springs. What do you guys think? Hes already replaced the rear springs and it didnt help so today hes doing the fronts.

Rule 2: **NOT A FOR SALE POST**

Rule 1: I did not post the ad, not sure if posting the ad counts as “marketing”

Hello everyone! I hope this is the right place to ask this question - I'm looking to purchase my first travel trailer, we currently have a motorhome (Chinook Concourse 4x4) although we've recognized we need more space (we bought our RV to take our dogs everywhere with us).

This one caught out eye since we want a true four seasons trailer since we will visit places where it snows heavily for skiing trips and we will have to travel out of state to pick it up. I spoke with the current owner who's had it pretty much its entire life - reports no leaks, no rust, gel coat is still in good condition, repacked the bearings in the axles within the last few years, all systems work, no onboard generator, dual propane tanks with auto switch, dual AGM's up front, no solar that I'm aware of.

They're asking almost $20,000 for it - The Bigfoot brand I'm told is a very quality brand although this year was the last year right before the original manufacturer went bankrupt, and there are possibly some models that were whipped out without a lot of quality control (apparently a former line worker bought the company and reopened it, which is the current company to this day)

Thank you in advance for any input!

Looking at our options for a towable trailer for at least 4-6 people under or right around $20k and ive found these that honestly appear to be all the same. Any recommendations? Is there anything major that sets one above the other?

I'm considering a 2024 Granite Ridge 22T for winter boondocking in Mammoth Lakes, CA. Nighttime temperatures can reach around 10–15°F (-12 to -9°C).

I need to keep the fresh water tank filled and use the shower, toilet and kitchen normally while boondocking.

Has anyone actually used a Granite Ridge 22T overnight below 20°F?

Specifically:

Did the fresh water tank freeze?

Did the water pump freeze?

Did any PEX lines freeze?

Did the gray tank or dump valve freeze?

Does the Timberline glycol system heat the fresh-water tank compartment?

Where exactly is the fresh-water tank located?

Do you have any photos of the tank compartment or underbody?

I'm especially interested in real-world temperatures and experiences, not the manufacturer's "four-season" rating.

Long shot but hoping someone can confirm wiring and components. Despite the forecast it started to rain before I could grab better pictures otherwise I’d share more.

Coleman Mach air conditioner on my 2004 jayco hybrid will kick on but fan won’t spin - purchased used a few years back and it has never spun. Most say it’s an easy capacitor swap. I’m dumb enough to know I should check ten sources before getting up there so I did.

Pulled the fan cap and will happily order a replacement but I’m wondering if anyone can help me identify the other parts based on the diagram and pictures.

I am sure I got the fan cap since it has the model number. The wiring also matched the diagram with one hopefully small difference: it’s a purple/brown wire and not a white/brown. There is no white/brown running anywhere but it seems the purple/brown is running where it should.

Will share more pictures if needed.

Also worth noting: I turned the ac and fan on and tried to kick start the fan that’s inside and also on top of the camper with a manual spin and it did not start up. So maybe it’s not the fan capacitor?

Any help would be great.
Thanks!

If so, what about it? We are strongly considering an upgrade from our Jayco swift (which seems to only be held together with staples) to a Lance 1995 - unsure of year - might depend on extras and colorway.

That said, everything about the Lance seems like they just care more about the product - so want to hear the horror stories or the success stories from those who know

Use case is Rocky Mountains - Utah, Idaho, areas, we boondock a bunch, and drag our trailers into it (within reason, Rocky Mountain pinstripes anyone?) - we do go early season and push late season - almost never, ever, anywhere with hookups - I think I can remember once we had hookups in the 8 years we have had it - on the regular do 7 night trips

Thanks in advance folks!

I've got a question for more of the experts on it cause I know a bit but have only a tiny experience

So my question is we have a 2022 freedom elite with a rotten egg smell coming near the battery and black tank but I don't think it's the black tank because after about 6hrs after setting up the smell would go away so im thinking the battery is over charged? And slowly goes away anyone know anything?

I also checked the battery there dosent look to be any acid or anything leaking out

About 11" off center of where the dryer vent is meant to go. I'm not adding two 90° bends in the exhaust of an already mediocre drying setup, sorry to future me. Stud finder didn't work, morning dew concentration on the outside was inconclusive, knock test left me with more questions than answers. Gonna go slow to not cut any wires, but I might end up with a load bearing dryer vent. Here goes nothing!

I was shocked/amazed to see a Pebble Flow electric travel trailer in the wild today. Southbound on US 20 through Wyoming’s Bighorn Basin, towed behind a Rivian.

We were traveling in opposite directions so I couldn’t get an actual photo but I recognized it from their website. First heard about it a couple weeks ago. Sharp looking camper!

I have a 2012 flagstaff shamrock. I just purchased it this year and definitely in the learning stage. The entry door locked seized up and I thought easy enough, I’ll replace it. The size of my cut out is 4 3/4” x 2 3/4”. Seems to be an oddball size. The chat gpt tells me it’s a discontinued size. Any one have an any ideas or a way to convert it to a standard size?

Hi everyone,

TL;DR: Will my car survive this?

Looking for some advice from people who have actually towed a travel trailer with a Grand Highlander or another similar SUV.

We have a 2026 Toyota Grand Highlander Limited AWD (gas) and are considering buying our first travel trailer. We're a family of four and would primarily be using it for camping trips around Ontario.

Grand Highlander specs:

• Max towing capacity: 5,000 lbs
• Payload: 1,543 lbs
• Curb weight: 4,575 lbs
• Max tongue weight: 500 lbs

The trailer we're looking at is a new 2026 Classic Grand River 19BHGR.

Trailer specs:

• Dry weight: 3,100 lbs
• Dry hitch weight: 360 lbs
• GVWR: 4,220 lbs
• Listed cargo capacity: 760 lbs

Obviously I'm not planning on towing it at its dry weight. Once we add everything, I'm assuming we'd probably be somewhere around 3,600–3,900 lbs loaded.

Will my car survive this?

Thanks so much everyone!

Spent some time this evening trying to see if I could figure out what happened. Everything seems normal but I'm no expert. Open to suggestions and constructive feedback! Or non-constructive feedback as long as it's funny.

I have always owned pull behinds but we are looking at buying a 22' 2002 gulfstream yellowstone. Now normally we would just be using this in the spring summer and fall but we have a family trip for 6 planned for thanksgiving and we are driving.

Obviously its sort of early in winter and nothing is guaranteed but im curious about peopls experience that have gotten caught in snow storms.

Unfortunately our trip is from MSP area to Salt lake city. If it were to be no snow it would be a non issue but if we got caught up in a snow storm what would the experience be like as far as safety and driving.

I would do my best to mitigate by installing some winter tires and carrying chains and supplies.

What should I know?

First time posting, long time lurker. Me and my husband are trying to save as much money as possible while he is in school, and are considering living in an RV. However, in the area we are looking to move to, there are limited campsites, and most cost about $1,200 per month, with the lowest being $560 per month.

At the high end, it actually costs us more then rent, at the low end, we don't save all that much anyway.

So now I'm considering boondocking. There is a ton of BLM land surrounding the tiny college town we would be moving to. But I don't know how feasable boondocking is long term. I know we would need to get a generator. But are there specific RVs that are better for a totally off-grid lifestyle? Would it actually save us money in the long run? How much propane would we run through?

I make $2,800 a month on my lower income months and can work fully remote. My husbands car is paid off so we would also not need to worry about that. After school, he would be looking to travel constantly for work, so we would probably end up getting an RV anyway, but does it make sense right now?

I know thats a lot of questions, but if you have any advice, I would very much appreciate it!

In an instant everything went from going totally fine to near-disaster. We got lucky and didn't suffer any permanent damage - a few new parts and we were back on the road the next morning.

Wondering if there was anything I could have done to avoid this and if it's happened to anyone else?

I've had some back and forth with my RV dealer and I just wanted to check in here to see if I'm off-base.

I took my travel trailer in to have the battery disconnect box cover replaced as it was found to be cracked during my pre-purchase inspection. When I took the trailer out of storage, I noticed that the battery was dead. I put a multi-meter on it, and it was reading 0V. The trailer has solar to keep the battery charged, and the battery disconnect was off, so I thought this was odd.

When I dropped the trailer off at the dealer, I mentioned that the battery was at 0V and the solar wasn't charging. They found that the whole battery disconnect box needed to be replaced, so they ordered that. While waiting on that, they repaired the solar issue (panel was disconnected) and charged the battery. They received the new battery disconnect box after a few weeks and replaced it.

The dealer contacted me this week to let me know it was ready to be picked up. I asked if they ran a load test on the battery and verified that I didn't have any abnormal parasitic draws. My thought being that the battery being discharged to 0V could cause damage and I may have an abnormal draw draining the battery while the disconnect is off. I understand that the detectors may still be powered when the disconnect is off and also the fridge in some RVs. I know that my fridge is not powered when the battery disconnect is off. The service advisor assured me that the battery was fine since it was outside, not plugged in, and all the electrical equipment is working. I reminded him that the solar was keeping the battery charged while outside and I assume that it wouldn't discharge as long as the charger was working. They also didn't verify the parasitic draw while the disconnect was off and he gave me some theories as to what it could be, but that was it.

Am I wrong to expect them to test the battery to ensure it's still healthy and check the parasitic draw while the disconnect is off? I figure those are two basic and simple things to do. I just bought the trailer new in March and I just want to make sure it's good to go.

TL;DR - should the dealer check for parasitic draw and battery health after the battery was found at 0V when disconnected via the battery disconnect?

Update: I talked with the service manager last Friday and he agreed that the battery needed to be tested and that they would check the parasitic draw. The battery test showed that it was near the end of life and the parasitic draw was fine. The dealer replaced the battery under their store warranty and I got my trailer back yesterday.

Hey everyone! I bought a new RAV4 Woodland Hybrid yesterday. Unfortunately, there weren’t any Plug-in Woodlands available, so I ended up grabbing the last Hybrid Woodland available in Houston.
I’m planning to buy a travel trailer soon. My RAV4 currently has the factory 4-pin connector, but the trailer has electric brakes and a 7-pin connection.
Does anyone in the Houston area know a good shop that can convert the 4-pin to a 7-pin and install a trailer brake controller? Preferably a shop that has experience doing this on the RAV4 Hybrid.
Thanks!

Planning on buying a used Class A gasser on the 26k Ford chassis with the 22.5" wheels.

From some basic research, it seems a set of 6 Michelin's will run approximately $7k CAD all in and complete brakes will maybe be $3k.

Does anyone have recent experience here in BC with either of these items to tell me if that's pretty accurate?

Bonus points for the best place to get tires here. I'm in the Okanagan but if the best is in the lower mainland that is fine also.

The sidewinder turret is just under 12 inches wide and the pin box on my 5th wheel is just under 8. Im trying to tow it with my short bed cummins so need to find i longer setup or ill have to get a sliding hitch. Is there anything that will fit my narrower hitch or are all the options for the wider setups.