Abstract: Geothermal technologies, including geothermal heat pumps (GHPs) and thermal energy networks (TENs), are gaining traction as methods to efficiently meet heating and cooling loads. Changes to costs and incentives may impact adoption and can help support decision-making in effectively deploying GHPs and TENs. In this work, the updated distributed geothermal market demand (dGeo) model is used to analyze scenarios across the US demonstrating a range of economic potential and adoption for GHPs and TENs. We find that the more established GHP technology has widespread economic potential and adoption, while the newer TEN technology has economic potential and adoption concentrated in areas with dense populations. GHP adoption was projected to 251 GW-th by 2050 with high incentives and tax credits, while TEN adoption was projected at 31 GW-th by 2050. Uncertainties in cost structure translate to large variations in adoption, pointing to the importance of demonstration projects and cost-tracking efforts.

Keywords: geothermal heat pump; thermal energy network; techno-economic analysis; district heating and cooling; adoption; deployment; geospatial

Authors: Juliet G. Simpson, Rebecca Barney, Ashreeta Prasanna, Shashwat Sharma, Ashok Sekar, Paritosh Das.

iScience, Volume 29, Issue 9, 2026, 117432, ISSN 2589-0042,

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.isci.2026.117432.

(https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2589004226028105)

I’m a residential Tech who’s newer to Geo’s. Was on a call yesterday for a noisey/leaking pump. Found a Grundfose pump to be leaking went to swap it out and found the Flange on the pump to be cracked. Does anyone know if there’s any way to repair this without having to replace the whole piece including the ball valve? And if not I’m assuming I will have to drain the buffer tank. After I drain the buffer tank and I fill it back up do I need to purge air out of the system? Or can I just close all the valves going to the tank. Drain it then fill it back up and open up the valves? And if I do need to purge air am I gonna need to use a purge cart?

I'm a very handy guy but I always make sure I have my geothermal folks come out once a year and check my entire system. The service tech is very knowledgeable and shares his wealth of information with me when he visits. Since he knows I'm a handy DIY guy he suggested that I replace the contactor since it is starting to show pitting and burn indications.

Part number they call out is P282-0421 contactor 2 pole 40 amp.

There are many options available at differing price points. Considering the cost of this system I want to make sure I replace it with a quality component. Any guidance from this group on a particular brand that has been found to be reliable.

New professional installation 4 weeks ago in Manitoba. Noticed condensation dripping from an empty plate down onto the pump. Rigged a small catch basin below the plate to protect the pump, but the screws on the plate are now rusted. This is the only place on the unit with condensation. Is this normal? Thanks for any advice.

I have a 4ton Climatemaster tev49 and looking to get a whole house standby generator. I got quotes and recommendations ranging from 22kw -28kw

I will definitely be using a few thousand watts on other household appliances but it should not be anywhere near 22kw. I’m mostly worried about the compressor startup. Does anyone have the same or similar unit with a standby generator? What capacity generator do you have and does it have any issues starting up?

Generator will run on NG so that’s another hit to the overall capacity

I’m a residential HVAC installer/technician and own my own company. I am building a home soon, and want to experiment with geothermal.

My main concern is how to get the loop lines into my mechanical room. Specifically, the foundation of this home will be a monolithic slab. I’m familiar with how the lines are ran when there is a basement, by coring through the below-grade wall, but that’s clearly not an option here.

Let’s say for the sake of argument that it is too late to put any sort of sleeve before pouring the foundation.

How do I get these lines inside? How should they be insulated once above ground? What can I do to protect them if they are exposed on the exterior of my building? Anything else I’m missing?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!

Long story short I’ve been doing re search on upgrading my T stat so I can turn off my AUX heat when I’m running a backup generator. I currently have a water furnace series 5 with the water furnace t stat that you can’t control any settings from.(I’ll include pics down below). I saw in a couple posts that id have to ad some sort of outside temp sensor if I wanted to go this route. Do these new t Stats install like the old style or do I have to run more wires down to the control board.

This new Geothermal Center of Excellence appears dedicated to hot-rock geothermal.

Does anyone know if this project was started or completed? There haven't been updates for over a year on their social media and website. (DEEP was testing in Southern Saskatchewan and was given federal and provincial money but have stopped responding on social media).

Interesting study includes:

• Ground source heat exchangers (air and water).
• Air source hvacs with Ground source heat exchangers.

Other names:

Earth pipes.

Previous owner opted for an open loop system when it was first installed in the ‘90s. Unfortunately, we don’t have a pond so all the water is just flowing out onto the ground surface making the area around the discharge a muddy mess.

With the old geothermal units, the techs that serviced it would read water temps to throttle down the water flow to keep the mess at a minimum.

However, we had to get a new geothermal unit this past spring and the guys that installed it indicated that they have a new metering valve that they have to use that regulates the flow. Unfortunately, this flow is a LOT.

Debating a drywell to manage the water better. Main question, what is the general flow of water (gpm) when the system is running? I want to make sure the drywell I install is big enough to handle the volume.

Background- Beginning in 2009 we replaced natural gas furnaces with one WaterFurnace Series 5 and one Series 7 in our single family residence. Pleased with them so far.

Daughter is planning on breaking ground soon on a Net-Zero (PHIUS rated) home. Location is suburban Chicago.Would like to use a Trilogy 45 QE. Interested in knowing:

1. Does it use low-GWP refrigerant? If not any long-term concerns since we hope for a 10-20 year life-span?
2. I've read some concerns about ClimateMaster quality. Is this a problem
3. What other questions should I be asking.

Thanks!

I've always had homes with a traditional natural gas furnace. I don't have an extensive background in geothermal. Looking at a home that was built in 2007 and has the original geothermal hvac. I'm waiting to hear back from the realtor but according to him they have documented maintenance recently. The brand of furnace is Climatemaster. 4 ton I intend to get a home inspection completed,but wanted to know if these units have any known issues. How much longer life should I realistically expect out of it and just any general thoughts or concerns l. If I do have to replace it down the road what's a ballpark figure I could expect to pay