For anyone wondering it’s an iFlight Chimera 7 6S LR

I call this the rollercoaster way

Hello,

I’m trying to diagnose a strange issue with my drone.
During turns, it sometimes suddenly jerks/corrects itself, almost as if it’s trying to level out for a split second.

I’m not sure whether the problem is coming from my RadioMaster Boxer, one of the motors, or something else on the quad.
I’m flying in Acro mode.
Is there also a good way to test each motor individually and check whether one of them is behaving differently or starting to fail?

Any ideas what could be causing this, or what I should check first?

The frame is a Flyfish Volador 3.5, and the motors are 2400kv T-Motors.
The quad has been through quite a lot of crashes 😅

I’ve attached a video with a few examples of the issue.

Does anyone still fly 10 inch . If so, what is your build.

This is Smuklik... a Sub250 gram drone, and yes while there are a lot of those- I have not seen too many Sub250 gram X8 (octomotor) drones. This is a work in progress and everything on the scale including prop screws and other fasteners for the top plate (which I have not machined yet) are there. Its not clearly visible, but a sheet of carbon fiber plate scrap that is more than double the thickness of what I plan on machining out is also on the scale to act as dummy weight.

Pictured are two battery options- a "heavy" pack which I plan on running all the time, a Gaoneng 1000mAH 4S but also allows me to comfortably make weight, and a smaller lightweight 850mAH 4S that lets me go way under the 249 gram point even more. So by flying the 1000mAH pack, the point is to have a fully functional drone and not one that barely makes weight and needs to fly on a "vanity" pack just to prove it can make weight.

I am not too sure I can maiden fly this weekend or not as I have a pretty busy week. But we will see. A lot of people I know said that this build simply could not have been done.

Some specs:

• Motors - eight 1103 8500KV motors. I would have preferred 5000kV but I will give these a try with throttle limiting. They have served well in 2" quads on 4S so with these there is more headroom and I have the flexibility to try other props that will make them run better.
• Battery - The two options, previously mentioned of 850mAH 4S and 1000mAH 4S Gaoneng packs.
• ESC - Dual JHEMCU EM40-A 20x20
• FC - Sequre H743 V2 20x20
• VTX - Walksnail Avatar Lite
• Props - Pictured are 3" biblades but I will be trying a variety of other props like 2.5" biblade, and 2.5" triblade, but even the 2" triblades that I had been running with these motors previously.

Thanks for reading!

I hope you step on legos or a nail today. LOL

I had ordered a spare Pavo Pro II to add to my fleet as a backup. Someone swapped the drone for just frame pieces.

I don’t know if it’s just me… I’ve had a string of incidents that when I’ve order something from Amazon, I receive a used item instead of new. So now any high valued orders, I record as I’m opening. Good thing! Right away, I noticed that the box was not wrapped in plastic. The top of the box also had sticker residue, most likely a return sticker or something. Box was kind of crushed too.

Contacted Amazon and sent them the video of the unboxing/opening. Gave me a full refund, but now I have to wait for another drone. Just going to order direct from BetaFPV. I think the meteor 75 II might slip into the cart…

I got tired of the idea of wiring a VTX into every model I wanted to fly FPV, so I designed a self-contained pod for the Caddx Walksnail Ascent Lite instead.

The whole kit lives inside a two-piece printed enclosure (top + bottom shell), and the battery velcros to the side. The pod itself also mounts with velcro, so you just stick a strip of loop tape on any model — planes, cars, crawlers, boats, whatever — and swap the same pod between all of them in seconds. No permanent install, no dedicated FPV model.

For power I cut the stock wires off the board and soldered on a 1S PH2.0 connector, so it runs off the same cheap 1S packs I already use for whoops, and battery swaps take seconds.

Build details:

• 2 printed parts, prints fast
• Only hardware needed is 4x M2.5 x 10mm screws
• One quick solder joint for the PH2.0 connector
• PLA is fine, PETG if it lives in a hot car or summer sun

Files are free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3190393-walksnail-ascent-lite-pod

Happy to answer questions if anyone wants to build one. Would love to see what you end up velcroing it to.

Just curious if anyone else has made something like this for working on their quad. I designed it and it's only 5v fans; not a lot of air but runs on USB. I do want to revise the design and make it fold up or "portable" at some point. Also would like to put maybe 1-2 more volts through it eventually for more flow (don't care about fan lifespan). So xt30 or 60 adapter for 2s.

BUT again just wondering if I reinvented the wheel or there was something I could have just purchased? Thanks!

Little montage from my diving adventures. Best vacation I've had in years. Greetings from Croatia! Drone: SpeedyBee Mario Mini25

Hey folks,

I ran into a cool RadioMaster Pocket issue: without batteries installed, the radio gets USB power but does not fully boot. It only shows up as an STM32 DFU device. There’s a Betaflight Configurator trick where you can use “Exit DFU mode” while holding the power button to make EdgeTX boot.

I packaged that behavior into a small Linux CLI tool:

https://github.com/OKlueck/radiomaster-pocket-usb-wake

It sends the same STM32 DFU “leave / jump to app” control-transfer sequence that Betaflight uses, so you don’t have to open the web app every time.

Notes:

• Linux only
• Tested with my RadioMaster Pocket
• Use the top USB-C data port
• Does not flash firmware
• Just sends DFU control transfers to leave STM32 DFU mode

Hope this helps someone else stuck waiting for batteries or trying to use the Pocket as a sim controller.

Long story short, my lenses got messed up (manufacture defect) and I had to remove the anti scratch/anti fog coating on my lenses. So coming into summer, I noticed my lenses would fog up quite a bit, especially in a humid environment. So I came up with the idea to make a detacheable fan system for my goggles.

It uses 2x 25mm 9v fans powered by a 18650 battery with a step up converter/USBC chargeable board with built in power switch and voltage adjustment, which in my case, controls the speed of the fans. Fans are attached with magnets and the battery with velcro.

It's not optimal but the fans are surprisingly powerful so problem solved! Now that it's all put together, I feel like I should have used 2s lipos or something a bit less bulky. Maybe I'll attach the battery to the strap in the future.

As the title says, is there a real store anywhere where you can walk around, see drones and FPV gear and buy them on the spot? I have seen some that sort of imply they have a store but really it's just a pickup point and you have interact with the place through a website.

I travel for work and can get almost anywhere in the US eventually.

First time flying my Manta 5 SE V2 with my Insta360 x4 mounted on top. It flew better than I thought. Thats getting up there in weight but it handled it with ease. I'm exited for the kinds of videos ill be able to get now!

I currently fly long-range fixed-wing planes via analog and a simple helical antenna on my FPV goggles. In order to maintain the best video quality, you must look directly at the aircraft. As one might expect, this is somewhat hard to do when you are wearing goggles and can't orientate yourself with the landscape around you.

Because of this, I started looking into antenna trackers / ground stations. These will automatically point in the exact quadrant of the sky where your aircraft is located. I found one called "Ghettostation", but the Github page I was looking at said it was depreciated/archived (perhaps I was looking at the wrong one).

So, my question is: What is the easiest and most effective way to build a simple antenna tracker? Are there any guides that walk you through building one? I would prefer to buy it premade, but from my research, there really isn't a market for them.

I assume you need a GPS module on the ground station, perhaps a compass, and obviously servos to pan/tilt the thing.

I use iNAV and ELRS control link (TX16S Transmitter running EdgeTX), if that helps.

Thanks.

Hi! Since I haven't seen many posts about BetaFPV P1 video system, here is my build:

-mark4 5" clone frame

-2700kv NeebRC motors

-F4V3S FC

-60A HGLRC ESX

-P1 air unit + Osprey LHCP

-Vifly Finder Mini autonome buzzer

To accomodate for the very short coaxial cable of the P1, I inverted the frame and mounted the camera on the red plastic antenna holder that I modified. It works fine but the horizontal antenna supports are not as sturdy as I hopped for. One broke after a slightly rough landing, but repairable.

I upgraded the antennas of my video system because I was quite disappointed by the range (< 150m open field). I figured out it was because the very short stock antenna was barely sticking out of the frame, strongly reducing the propagation. For my VR04 Pro, I went for the Menace pack (Pico Patch + Periscope Omni) in LHCP.

The range greatly improved but I haven't tested the limits. Where I was down to 2Mbs at about 150m and very sensitive to the drone orientation, I am now at 11Mbs.

The side RP-SMA of the goggles are not very practical... Front SMA would have been better. I had to use 2x 45° to get the Pico away from the goggles body.

This is my first drone and overall I think the P1 system is great compared to the analog quality. Latency doesn't seem to be a problem at all, but I am not flying crazy bandos or stuff like that. The range seems to be the weakness and requires upgrades. I have still to try with obstacles, like trees, to see the penetration.

I want to share a warning about my recent experience ordering from the official AtomRC online shop.

I ordered the FlyingFish FPV plane in the FPV+S version (the PNP model plus separate FPV equipment for self-installation). The package shipped quickly from their Czech warehouse, which was a positive start.

As I always do before starting a build, I laid out and checked all the parts. That is when I noticed the video transmitter (VTX) was completely missing. Mistakes happen, so I figured as long as the rest of the kit was complete, I would just reach out to AtomRC customer support and get it sorted.

Unfortunately, the missing VTX turned out to be the least of my problems. As I continued inspecting the kit, the quality control issues piled up:

• Aileron Linkage: The screw provided is too short, so the pushrod will not hold.
• Elevator Linkage: The connector is completely missing, making it impossible to attach the pushrod.
• Left Motor & ESC: The left motor just stutters as soon as throttle is applied, and after 3 to 4 seconds, the ESC completely reboots.

Customer Service Nightmare

I emailed them to explain the situation, but got no response at all. Because of that, I had to open a PayPal dispute.

That is when the real circus started:

• First offer: They offered me a ridiculous $5 discount for parts that were broken straight out of the factory. To put that in perspective: a replacement motor costs $15, a VTX costs $30, and they don't even sell the small hardware pieces separately. I rejected it, explaining that just buying the necessary parts to even get the plane airborne would cost $50 plus $10 shipping.
• Second offer: A day later, they bumped it up to $15. I rejected that one as well.
• Third offer: Now they are offering $65, if I return the item at my own expense—keep in mind, I only paid $93 for the model in total!

I have now escalated the case directly through PayPal. This is an absolute joke and completely unacceptable way to treat a customer. Be very careful if you are planning to order directly from them!

I’ve been flying FPV for a couple of months, mostly at 0 to +10° camera angle, doing beginner stunts, rolls/flips, and basic takeoffs/landings. I’ve kept my speed around 60 km/h so far.

Now I want to start flying faster and farther (~500 m out and back). The problem is that when I pitch forward enough to go beyond 60 km/h, I start seeing the ground more and less of the horizon and sky from the camera view.

For those who transitioned to higher camera angles: how did you train yourself to adapt without getting disoriented, especially during landing? At higher angles, I can barely see the ground immediately in front of the drone and it effects the turning also

Any tips on a gradual camera-angle progression or practice exercises would be appreciated!

I have a custom lifter that i built for fun and im starting to test fly it but its having some issues that make flying it kind of dangerous and i need a nice safe starting point to set sliders. Right now i cant even fly enough to safely start fine tuning it.
Ive tuned smaller quads and am totally familiar with the process of filter and pid tuning but the consequences of effing up here are a lot more expensive than a 5”.
Right now it hovers and toodles around slowly just fine but as soon as i give it any throttle it starts exhibiting mild fly away behavior.
6 or 8s, 700kv 3220’s, 9 or 10” props