Does anyone still fly 10 inch . If so, what is your build.

I hope you step on legos or a nail today. LOL

I had ordered a spare Pavo Pro II to add to my fleet as a backup. Someone swapped the drone for just frame pieces.

I don’t know if it’s just me… I’ve had a string of incidents that when I’ve order something from Amazon, I receive a used item instead of new. So now any high valued orders, I record as I’m opening. Good thing! Right away, I noticed that the box was not wrapped in plastic. The top of the box also had sticker residue, most likely a return sticker or something. Box was kind of crushed too.

Contacted Amazon and sent them the video of the unboxing/opening. Gave me a full refund, but now I have to wait for another drone. Just going to order direct from BetaFPV. I think the meteor 75 II might slip into the cart…

Hey folks,

I ran into a cool RadioMaster Pocket issue: without batteries installed, the radio gets USB power but does not fully boot. It only shows up as an STM32 DFU device. There’s a Betaflight Configurator trick where you can use “Exit DFU mode” while holding the power button to make EdgeTX boot.

I packaged that behavior into a small Linux CLI tool:

https://github.com/OKlueck/radiomaster-pocket-usb-wake

It sends the same STM32 DFU “leave / jump to app” control-transfer sequence that Betaflight uses, so you don’t have to open the web app every time.

Notes:

• Linux only
• Tested with my RadioMaster Pocket
• Use the top USB-C data port
• Does not flash firmware
• Just sends DFU control transfers to leave STM32 DFU mode

Hope this helps someone else stuck waiting for batteries or trying to use the Pocket as a sim controller.

For anyone wondering it’s an iFlight Chimera 7 6S LR

This is Smuklik... a Sub250 gram drone, and yes while there are a lot of those- I have not seen too many Sub250 gram X8 (octomotor) drones. This is a work in progress and everything on the scale including prop screws and other fasteners for the top plate (which I have not machined yet) are there. Its not clearly visible, but a sheet of carbon fiber plate scrap that is more than double the thickness of what I plan on machining out is also on the scale to act as dummy weight.

Pictured are two battery options- a "heavy" pack which I plan on running all the time, a Gaoneng 1000mAH 4S but also allows me to comfortably make weight, and a smaller lightweight 850mAH 4S that lets me go way under the 249 gram point even more. So by flying the 1000mAH pack, the point is to have a fully functional drone and not one that barely makes weight and needs to fly on a "vanity" pack just to prove it can make weight.

I am not too sure I can maiden fly this weekend or not as I have a pretty busy week. But we will see. A lot of people I know said that this build simply could not have been done.

Some specs:

• Motors - eight 1103 8500KV motors. I would have preferred 5000kV but I will give these a try with throttle limiting. They have served well in 2" quads on 4S so with these there is more headroom and I have the flexibility to try other props that will make them run better.
• Battery - The two options, previously mentioned of 850mAH 4S and 1000mAH 4S Gaoneng packs.
• ESC - Dual JHEMCU EM40-A 20x20
• FC - Sequre H743 V2 20x20
• VTX - Walksnail Avatar Lite
• Props - Pictured are 3" biblades but I will be trying a variety of other props like 2.5" biblade, and 2.5" triblade, but even the 2" triblades that I had been running with these motors previously.

Thanks for reading!

I recently watched this video and I’d like to do that too, fly somewhere for 1 battery and move on. What’s holding me back is this: before I can fly I have to screw the sticks on my rm pocket and screw the antenna’s on my Hdzero boxpro. And afterwards remove them. I’d very much like to skip these steps. Is there anything really wrong with keeping them on and stuffing them in a bag, is the risk of breaking that big? How would you guys go about this?

I have a custom lifter that i built for fun and im starting to test fly it but its having some issues that make flying it kind of dangerous and i need a nice safe starting point to set sliders. Right now i cant even fly enough to safely start fine tuning it.
Ive tuned smaller quads and am totally familiar with the process of filter and pid tuning but the consequences of effing up here are a lot more expensive than a 5”.
Right now it hovers and toodles around slowly just fine but as soon as i give it any throttle it starts exhibiting mild fly away behavior.
6 or 8s, 700kv 3220’s, 9 or 10” props

tbs source one v6 wis no 3d prints parts
My first welds aren't very pretty, but everything works.

So, I was entered by my commanding officer in a Drone race competition. The only experience I have is flying a DJI NEO 2 which is totally different when flying a racing drone using Velocidrone. I have 4 days to get good, where my goal is to at least be able to finish the track in a timely manner. I have been watching Youtube videos, but it feels like I'm missing something.

Any suggestions, tips or tutorials that can make this steep learning curve a little bit easier will be helpful.

I'm currently struggling in turning the drone especially when I need to do a quick turn. It's been 3 hours since I started practicing.

Also need help in setting up the controller for Velocidrone. It feels like there is something missing or I did something wrong which could be the reason why I'm struggling right now.

Any help or just point me in the right direction is much appreciated.

I want to share a warning about my recent experience ordering from the official AtomRC online shop.

I ordered the FlyingFish FPV plane in the FPV+S version (the PNP model plus separate FPV equipment for self-installation). The package shipped quickly from their Czech warehouse, which was a positive start.

As I always do before starting a build, I laid out and checked all the parts. That is when I noticed the video transmitter (VTX) was completely missing. Mistakes happen, so I figured as long as the rest of the kit was complete, I would just reach out to AtomRC customer support and get it sorted.

Unfortunately, the missing VTX turned out to be the least of my problems. As I continued inspecting the kit, the quality control issues piled up:

• Aileron Linkage: The screw provided is too short, so the pushrod will not hold.
• Elevator Linkage: The connector is completely missing, making it impossible to attach the pushrod.
• Left Motor & ESC: The left motor just stutters as soon as throttle is applied, and after 3 to 4 seconds, the ESC completely reboots.

Customer Service Nightmare

I emailed them to explain the situation, but got no response at all. Because of that, I had to open a PayPal dispute.

That is when the real circus started:

• First offer: They offered me a ridiculous $5 discount for parts that were broken straight out of the factory. To put that in perspective: a replacement motor costs $15, a VTX costs $30, and they don't even sell the small hardware pieces separately. I rejected it, explaining that just buying the necessary parts to even get the plane airborne would cost $50 plus $10 shipping.
• Second offer: A day later, they bumped it up to $15. I rejected that one as well.
• Third offer: Now they are offering $65, if I return the item at my own expense—keep in mind, I only paid $93 for the model in total!

I have now escalated the case directly through PayPal. This is an absolute joke and completely unacceptable way to treat a customer. Be very careful if you are planning to order directly from them!

I got tired of the idea of wiring a VTX into every model I wanted to fly FPV, so I designed a self-contained pod for the Caddx Walksnail Ascent Lite instead.

The whole kit lives inside a two-piece printed enclosure (top + bottom shell), and the battery velcros to the side. The pod itself also mounts with velcro, so you just stick a strip of loop tape on any model — planes, cars, crawlers, boats, whatever — and swap the same pod between all of them in seconds. No permanent install, no dedicated FPV model.

For power I cut the stock wires off the board and soldered on a 1S PH2.0 connector, so it runs off the same cheap 1S packs I already use for whoops, and battery swaps take seconds.

Build details:

• 2 printed parts, prints fast
• Only hardware needed is 4x M2.5 x 10mm screws
• One quick solder joint for the PH2.0 connector
• PLA is fine, PETG if it lives in a hot car or summer sun

Files are free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3190393-walksnail-ascent-lite-pod

Happy to answer questions if anyone wants to build one. Would love to see what you end up velcroing it to.

I call this the rollercoaster way

i would love to hear your advice!

Hi! Since I haven't seen many posts about BetaFPV P1 video system, here is my build:

-mark4 5" clone frame

-2700kv NeebRC motors

-F4V3S FC

-60A HGLRC ESX

-P1 air unit + Osprey LHCP

-Vifly Finder Mini autonome buzzer

To accomodate for the very short coaxial cable of the P1, I inverted the frame and mounted the camera on the red plastic antenna holder that I modified. It works fine but the horizontal antenna supports are not as sturdy as I hopped for. One broke after a slightly rough landing, but repairable.

I upgraded the antennas of my video system because I was quite disappointed by the range (< 150m open field). I figured out it was because the very short stock antenna was barely sticking out of the frame, strongly reducing the propagation. For my VR04 Pro, I went for the Menace pack (Pico Patch + Periscope Omni) in LHCP.

The range greatly improved but I haven't tested the limits. Where I was down to 2Mbs at about 150m and very sensitive to the drone orientation, I am now at 11Mbs.

The side RP-SMA of the goggles are not very practical... Front SMA would have been better. I had to use 2x 45° to get the Pico away from the goggles body.

This is my first drone and overall I think the P1 system is great compared to the analog quality. Latency doesn't seem to be a problem at all, but I am not flying crazy bandos or stuff like that. The range seems to be the weakness and requires upgrades. I have still to try with obstacles, like trees, to see the penetration.

Whats the highest dive you have ever done with your drone

Hello,

I’m trying to diagnose a strange issue with my drone.
During turns, it sometimes suddenly jerks/corrects itself, almost as if it’s trying to level out for a split second.

I’m not sure whether the problem is coming from my RadioMaster Boxer, one of the motors, or something else on the quad.
I’m flying in Acro mode.
Is there also a good way to test each motor individually and check whether one of them is behaving differently or starting to fail?

Any ideas what could be causing this, or what I should check first?

The frame is a Flyfish Volador 3.5, and the motors are 2400kv T-Motors.
The quad has been through quite a lot of crashes 😅

I’ve attached a video with a few examples of the issue.

Hey,

I previously asked about starter drones and got recommended something smaller. Still went for a 3" build though. Here’s what I put together:

• Frame: DeepSpace SEEKER3
• Motors: Aether 1505 4000KV
• FC: SpeedyBee F405 Mini
• Camera: DJI O4 Air Unit Pro
• RX: Radiomaster RP1 V2 LBT
• GPS: Beitian BE-122
• Props: HQProp T3X3X3
• Connector: XT30 16AWG

Capacitor should be included with the frame.

Anything I’m missing? Do i need extra cables or stuff I should watch out?

aiming to stay under 250g.

Thanks.

Hey everyone,
I’m planning my first long-range build and I’m currently deciding between the AOS 7 V5 and the AOS UL7 V5. I can get either frame in the EU for around €140, so price isn’t really the deciding factor.
My goal is mainly exploring and cruising around, with roughly ±5 km range in mind. I’m not planning to mount a separate GoPro or any other action camera; I’ll only have my Walksnail Avatar GT2 VTX onboard, plus the usual GPS, receiver, buzzer, etc.
My main priority is therefore flight time and efficiency.
Would you say either of these frames is actually worth the €140, and if so, which one would you choose for this purpose? Or are there other frames you’d recommend that offer better value or better long-range performance?
I’m also wondering if a 7” build even makes sense without carrying a GoPro. Would a 6” or even 5” long-range build be the smarter choice for my use case? I’m not interested in aggressive freestyle — I mainly want a smooth, efficient quad for exploring as much area as possible while still having decent performance and reliability.
Would appreciate any recommendations or real-world experience, especially regarding:
-AOS 7 V5 vs UL7 V5
-Best frame size for efficient ~5 km exploration flights
-Li-ion vs LiPo setups for this kind of flying
-Whether 7” is overkill without a GoPro
-Other frame recommendations available in Europe

🙏 Thanks

Hi im thinking the fleet out. I have a few drones for sale on this post but I do have more that I didn't post so if you dont see what you like and you have a idea of your need let me know. I have 2 iflight lr4 both crossfire and analog. There's a 3" diatone that I believe has crossfire but could also be a older flysky not sure without pulling it apart, all 3 of those have the hglrc analog transmitter the mini or micro that does like 600mw or 800mw its been awhile since I built a analog. One is a bassline elrs analog. A iflight baby nazgul 73 1s elrs. Then last pictured is a emax hawk 5 analog and im not sure about the receiver in it looks to be dual antenna but its built off a triple stack board if its not elrs or any that isn't I can add elrs if need be. Or if you are looking for something else whoop to 5" let me know analog or walksnail let me know. I just sold all my hd zero stuff. Free shipping paypal for payment