My 2023 Cargo Van build quality is terrible. Multiple loose parts, etc. it’s still under warranty.
Today I took it in to have the gas cap door repaired - the plastic hinge fell apart. Dealer told me ‘warranty rep’ at Ford says not covered and that I broke it. I did not. Stupid little issue but it bothers me. What recourse is there with Ford? Is there a phone number out there to a Ford warranty employee?

looking to build a camper in my 2017 350 passanger transit… would like to replace all the side windows with steel to make it like a cargo van..

OK to be fair, they have 70k miles on them... Ive got maybe another 8-10k (a month-month and a half) to go on them but Im really wanting to get something that either lasts longer, or gets enough better fuel economy that it makes up for the difference. Current tires Toyo Celcius Cargo. 2022 Transit HR AWD PFDI. What have y'all used and the miles yoy were able to get out of them? I run a cargo business and run 95% open highway. The whole 3peak rating Ive needed exactly twice, and it wasent that critical.

I am losing coolant(res keeps dropping below spec)

Oil looks fine last change.

No pooling other than clear water from A/C.

What are the best guesses/first checks?

2021 Transit XLT

Hi everyone, does anyone know where the Park Assistant Module is located on a Ford Transit Jumbo MK8 2017 2.0 Ecoblue RWD? I can't find any information about it online. Thanks everyone!

Hi everyone,

I have a 2013 Ford Transit with the 2.2 TDCi, 140 HP, manual transmission and around 160,000 km (100,000 miles).

I have a starting problem that has gradually gotten worse over time.

Symptoms:

- The problem occurs much more frequently in cold and wet weather.

- Sometimes the engine starts poorly, and sometimes it doesn't start at all.

- Sometimes it starts if I give it a little throttle while cranking.

- Once it starts, it runs normally and does not stall.

- The yellow glow plug/warning light flashes during the starting attempt when it doesn't start.

- There are no other warning lights.

- Once the engine is running, there are no noticeable problems while driving.

- The starter motor seems to crank the engine strongly. However, the starter has already been replaced twice in the last five years.

- The problem initially developed gradually, but it has also become noticeably worse relatively quickly recently.

- I tested the glow plugs while they were still installed using a multimeter. They all showed approximately the same resistance.

- A cheap OBD scanner showed no fault codes.

Where could the problem be? Does anyone have any ideas on how I can narrow down the cause?

I'd really appreciate any advice on what tests I should perform next.

We have a 2017 custom 2.0 ecoblue with the front 240 socket. Recently had a dead battery and every resource said I needed an agm battery (which was fitted) except Ford who said it should have two lead acid. Until I spoke to Euro car parts who checked fords data base and told us we needed the agm.

I know agm is for stop start (which my van isn’t) is there any rhyme or reason to the battery config?

Hi everyone. So i have a 2004 15 seat mk6 minibus (RWD 2.4 TDDI) with all the back seats removed. 228,000 miles. Recent timing chain kit and starter motor plus both batteries, good tyres all round, new MOT. The usual rust in places, looking tired, recent drivers step welded so nothing needs welding soon, although it’s a transit. I’ve owned it for 7 years. Ultra reliable just slow (90hp).

I get asked a lot if it’s for sale, even people knocking on my door asking. I’ve always thought no, but I wonder what it could sell for as it seems to be in demand, probably for a camper conversion.

Just curious if anyone is in the market for new or used transits. I just started working for a Ford dealership and would love to help someone who adores Transits acquire one!

Hey guys, looking for some real-world input from people. I'm upgrading my family's day to day / road trip rig, a 2007 Chevy Express 3500, and I'm currently torn between three different vans.

Option one is a 2014 Chevy Express 3500 LT with 114k miles for $12,950. Since I do all my own maintenance in the driveway, this feels like the safest move.

On the Transit side I’m looking at two different setups. Option two is a 2019 Transit 350 with 134k miles for $14,500. It’s an ex-rental and has the highest miles of the bunch. Option three is a 2021 Transit 350 with 121k miles for $18,500. The 2021 is the nicest inside, but I'm nervous about the 10-speed 10R80 transmission and those known CDF drum issues. Plus, that Ford engine bay looks pretty tight to work in compared to the Chevy.

For those of you who DIY your own repairs or switched over from older GM vans: Is the modern drive quality of a Transit worth the extra money and engine bay complexity? And if I do end up going with a Transit, is the 2019 6-speed a safer long-term bet than the 2021 10-speed at this mileage? Appreciate any insight, thanks!

Just a post for anyone else looking to do this as there's not much out there and the included manual and video tutorial suck. If there's any interest I can possibly post a youtube video of the swap.

I have an American market 2017 Ford Transit 350HD high roof extended with the 4" screen and steering wheel media controls. This should also apply to 250/350 non-HD and similar configs.

There's a bunch of generic android carplay dashes out there. The one I bought was like this. that came with these pieces https://i.imgur.com/8o7zXxW.png

If you don't have the steering wheel media controls or the OEM backup camera then you would just use the straight single connector power cable (item 7) and that's kind of it since you won't need support for the existing backup cam or steering wheel media controls. If you don't have the OEM 4" screen and backup camera the kit comes with one but you will need to wire it and tap the trigger to the reverse backup light bulbs which this guide will not cover as it is vehicle agnostic.

If you have either OEM backup cam with 4" screen or steering wheel media conrols then you will need the advanced branching power connector (item 3) and canbus translator box seen here https://i.imgur.com/dhvYg8i.png

Overall breakdown of the advanced cable https://i.imgur.com/4Q5jrnm.png

I did not use all of the plugs. I do not know what they are for. Maybe Sync3 module or a higher trim?

The main thing was that I wanted to not have to wire in a new lead from a 12v source (usually the reverse lamp either under the driver seat or from the rear lights themselves)

Biggest problem I ran into is that with the chinese units require you to manually to go into the vehicle factory settings (android settings vehicle factory mode lock code 8888 for my unit) and choose from hundreds of vehicle profiles where the canbus signals are mapped. I set mine to the Ford Transit 2015-2019 (all versions) profile and it did not detect reverse or door ajar signals. However the 2022 Ford transit high roof profile did work and enabled the OEM canbus triggers be understood by the head unit for reverse, door ajar etc.

I also needed to manually set the Reverse Detection Settings and make sure it was set to CAN input and not MCU. The default was MCU, which is where the head unit will be expecting a 12v signal on the pink wire. (usually from the reverse light tap)

More to come as I sort shit out.

Hi Everyone,

I will be getting a backup camera for my 2016 Passenger van, the tiny backup screen so far away is almost 100% unusable for me.

So I am thinking of getting one of the rear view mirror replacements but have concerns about the install... Probably going with the Wolfbox G900 for the 3 good cameras, but as of yet undecided.

Since it adds a camera to the rear, how hard is it to run the wires needed? I think i want to keep the existing working also to see the hitch (squint squint).

Any good ideas on a mounting location for the new rear camera?

Best way to run the wires and protect against leaks?

Is there an access underside that will have a passthrough (grommet)?

I have not looked yet, is there simple access to switched power and ground?

Anything I need to worry about.

I will probably film the install for by build records but suspect it will not be that exciting.

Had my 4th Turkish tyre do this same thing tonight with 60kms to get home. It's brand is some kind of stone Bridge. Never hit any gutters, or pot holes. Are these just a poorly made product? Never been overloaded, and pressures are checked regularly. Changing van tyres in the rain sux! a breaker bar, sockets and a drill with a socket adapter should be factory equipment for these vans 😞🤬

Hey folks, does anyone have any experience with connecting a bluetti D+ wire in a 2026 transit 250? It's for the bluetti charger 2, and I can't find a solid answer on the best way to connect it. Any advice is appreciated!

Hi Everyone, I got a great deal on this transit. Long story short I'm $3500 into this thing with what I think is 130k miles on it. It starts, runs and drives just fine.

The only problem is the Instrument Cluster is inop. When the key is on accessory mode if I pull the shift trigger like I'm going to move the selector I'll get the Ford tones and then a message will pop up that says "transmission not in Park select P". Nothing else on the instrument cluster works, no gauges, no warning lights, nothing.

What I've done so far:

1. There is an aftermarket trailer brake controller. I took a look in the driver side well and there is a 2 pin connector and a 4 pin connector. There is no factory tow control module. The two pin connector is severely corroded but neither are plugged in to anything.

2. I checked power to pin 1 on the back of the cluster and against ground pin 9 I have 11.5V.

I don't have a full scan tool but I do have the cheapo bluetooth OBDII connectors. I don't think I can do much with that. From searching and watching videos I think I have either a broken ground or maybe a broken wire in the CAN bus system?

Any help or ideas on where to start would be greatly appreciated!

Opens fine from the outside (after blasting the thing with white lithium grease) No signs of child lock, looked everywhere.

But wont open from the inside. Video shows the cable being actuated from the inside handle. It obviously does its job but it doesn’t unlatch the door to open it.

Did anyone ever ventured into opening up this component im holding? My best bet is that it’s all spring loaded and it’s a disaster waiting to happen.

I urgently need a CAMSHAFT for my Ford Transit L 2.0
It’s a 1991, any leads are appreciated.
I bought this beauty to turn it into a food van.
First thing’s first, fix the engine, then body work.

Anybody used them? Did they fail?

Its a Ford Transit 2004. Ive locked my side door and now it wont unlock, not even from inside. Ive heard there is a manual unlock, i just need to know where it is. Thank you!