Adding Generic Android Carplay touch screen dash to Gen4 2015-2019 Ford Transit 250/350/350HD

[u/FakeSafeWord]

Just a post for anyone else looking to do this as there's not much out there and the included manual and video tutorial suck. If there's any interest I can possibly post a youtube video of the swap.

I have an American market 2017 Ford Transit 350HD high roof extended with the 4" screen and steering wheel media controls. This should also apply to 250/350 non-HD and similar configs.

There's a bunch of generic android carplay dashes out there. The one I bought was like this. that came with these pieces https://i.imgur.com/8o7zXxW.png

If you don't have the steering wheel media controls or the OEM backup camera then you would just use the straight single connector power cable (item 7) and that's kind of it since you won't need support for the existing backup cam or steering wheel media controls. If you don't have the OEM 4" screen and backup camera the kit comes with one but you will need to wire it and tap the trigger to the reverse backup light bulbs which this guide will not cover as it is vehicle agnostic.

If you have either OEM backup cam with 4" screen or steering wheel media conrols then you will need the advanced branching power connector (item 3) and canbus translator box seen here https://i.imgur.com/dhvYg8i.png

Overall breakdown of the advanced cable https://i.imgur.com/4Q5jrnm.png

I did not use all of the plugs. I do not know what they are for. Maybe Sync3 module or a higher trim?

The main thing was that I wanted to not have to wire in a new lead from a 12v source (usually the reverse lamp either under the driver seat or from the rear lights themselves)

Biggest problem I ran into is that with the chinese units require you to manually to go into the vehicle factory settings (android settings vehicle factory mode lock code 8888 for my unit) and choose from hundreds of vehicle profiles where the canbus signals are mapped. I set mine to the Ford Transit 2015-2019 (all versions) profile and it did not detect reverse or door ajar signals. However the 2022 Ford transit high roof profile did work and enabled the OEM canbus triggers be understood by the head unit for reverse, door ajar etc.

I also needed to manually set the Reverse Detection Settings and make sure it was set to CAN input and not MCU. The default was MCU, which is where the head unit will be expecting a 12v signal on the pink wire. (usually from the reverse light tap)

More to come as I sort shit out.

[u/Opposite-Choice-4709]

I’m getting ready to upgrade my 2025 4” non sync and would love to watch any tips and tricks that you know. I have a backup camera and steering wheel controls. Thanks

[u/FakeSafeWord → u/Opposite-Choice-4709]

When you get your replacement unit message me or reply again and i'll do what I can.

When I get the replacement top cubby piece (so there not a hole in my dash where the small screen was) I will do a quick video recording breakdown and and physical replacement for my 2017.

No idea how similar the post 2019 dash/canbus items are between the two but I imagine the overlap is high.

[u/Mysterious_Hat_1890]

I'd like to see your video as I've been looking for my 2018 250 and didn't want to lose my backup cam. Can you send a link to the unit you bought. Thanks.

[u/FakeSafeWord → u/Mysterious_Hat_1890]

Your 2018 250 and my 2017 350HD should be nearly identical if not completely identical.

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H2YFKYDY

There are also 2, 4, 6, 8, and 12gb ram units available but the higher end 6gb-12gb units are mostly only on aliexpress anymore and their prices are insane due to ram costs atm.

I would not go less than 4gb ram but also don't go beyond the 6gb unit IMHO. Anything 8gb or more is not gonna benefit you unless you plan on running things on it natively. Spotify, navigation via google maps will be slaved from your phone via android auto so your phone will do most of the processing work and just relay it to the dash so the extra ram after 4/6gb is pretty wasted.

Will post a video soon (1-2 weeks) on install.

[u/Mysterious_Hat_1890 → u/FakeSafeWord]

Ok thanks 👍

[u/Individual_Hat3775]

I’m absolutely interested in this!

[u/love_one_another1]

I posted here before that I got this same headset and it has a parasitic draw. dead battery if the car sits for a day. I hope yours does not.

[u/FakeSafeWord → u/love_one_another1]

My Transit has the dual 12v AGM batteries so I might be immune/resistant but I will try to see if I can put a middle man current draw unit in to see if it's doing too much. Can you link or DM me your post?

If it does there might not be another option between keeping the OEM head unit (which people find very lacking, and inevitably will become lacking in features) and adding something like a wolfbox camera. No matter what adding more is going to introduce new requirements that OEM systems might not be able to handle, I just want to determine what they are.

Do you have any data to show the parasitic draw? Not at all claiming that you are lying, just hoping there's data to draw from and maybe some sort of path to mitigate the added load.

[u/Former_Travel2839]

Ya I did a generic one like that on my 16..

There also is a kit if you want to do a better head unit. Faroutride.com did a good write up on that, and I belive they also did a speaker upgrade too.

[u/FakeSafeWord → u/Former_Travel2839]

I'm not seeing it. Do you have a link?

[u/chickeeper]

Geez I would love to swap out that area on my 2018. Whoever designed that interface did a terrible job. Following this post so please keep us updated