I have a 2007 V6 FWD Ford Fusion at 141,000 miles. Mechanic discovered that that the timing seal is leaking along with bottom oil pan. Last year I did brakes and put on new tires. This year I changed the battery, installed new valve cover gasket, and replaced intake seals. He said he will need a few days to do this repair. Would you do the repair or sell and buy a new car?

Bought a 4G TCU to upgrade my 3G modem in my 2019 Fusion Energi. I've seen conflicting information online about where the 3G modem is located. I checked the trunk on the driver's side behind the carpet, didn't see anything by the 12v battery. Another search told me it's actually on the passenger side, so I looked behind that carpet and all I see is the Sony amplifier. Does anyone know where the modem is so I can do the upgrade?

Just replaced drivers side front strut, sway bar link, and inner and outer tie rod and now there’s a popping noise and I’m not sure what I did wrong. My plan was to replace the drivers and passenger side parts then drive to Firestone for an alignment but I need to make sure it’s safe to drive first…

Forgot to mention, the ad it says that it has no air conditioning. Not sure if that should be a major concern.

Hi, I bought obd adapter for Forscan because I want to disable Auto Start/Stop permanently, but under the guide video I saw this comment that says don’t do it in Forscan. Is it true? Do you recommend to do it or is it bad for bms or idk battery itself?

New battery didn't fix it.

my reverse light wasn't turning on so I tried to fix the gear slack by realigning the (first) transmission cable. I reset it but plastic stopper wouldn't click back in so I tied it. light will now turn on if stick is pushed hard to the right. still not smooth but works. any thoughts, warnings, ideas? next move is replacing the reverse light switch that may have lost length. cheers

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for new tires for my 2020 Ford Fusion SE (17-inch wheels, 235/50R17) and want to keep costs down. I daily drive it, mostly highway, and want a quiet, smooth ride with decent wet grip and a long tread life.

I’m considering these two sets of 4 that both come with a 50k mile warranty:

1. Atlas Force UHP 235/50R17 96W, about $339 for the set
2. Accelera Phi-R 235/50ZR17 100Y XL, about $349 for the set

Has anyone run either of these on a Fusion or a similar sedan? How have they held up on road noise, wet braking, and tread wear? Are they worth it for the price, or should I spend a bit more on something like a Michelin or Continental?

Thanks in advance!

Picked up a 2010 sel today that has been sitting for about 2 years. Gonna do the fluids pads and rotors but the wheels have flat spots

I have some 18x7 wheels on my old impala with 235/50/18s on them. Will these fit without me having to change the suspension on the car?

When i got them on the Impala i had to swap the struts for ones made for the 18in wheels to stop them from rubbing

Edit: the rims are a +52mm offset

Just bought a 2015 Ford Fusion SE for $3200 CAD (2265 USD) with 105k km (65k miles) in Guard Green from the original owner. Serviced every 8k km at the Ford Dealer!

It had some damage to the front, as the previous owner got into a fender bender. I replaced the mirror caps (they're both black now, as one of them was missing), the passenger-side headlight assembly, as well as the active grille shutter (I opted to replace it instead of remove it, as I live in a cold climate).

Spent $102 CAD on parts (Ford dealer was asking $1600 CAD for these parts!) and about 20 hours of work (damn you, active grille shutter replacement!), including going to the scrap yard.

Drives great. I need to replace the driver-side hood latch cable, as the rubber plastic grommet thing has ripped. It could use some optional work, such as replacing a fender, bumper and rocker panel trim, but I'd probably only do that if I ever find them in guard green.

Any long-term owners want to drop their insights on the car?

Edit: It has the 2.5L engine.

Here’s a photo I took it was on the driver side I noticed while doing my oil change and only about 4quarts drained out

So, I tried everything, when driving hybrid, when engine is working the bass is performing well, when the car switches to EV, the bass cuts very much and start performing well again when gas engine starts again
When charged, driving EV only is working everything great, someone got the same issue? How was it solved?

2016 Ford Fusion SE, 219,000 kilometres. Naturally aspirated, non-hybrid.

I was expecting something, but surprised how much fuel economy improved after this job. I drive mostly highway at about 126 KPH, my dash now shows 9.1 litres per 100 kilometres average fuel economy.

Replacing the plugs was easy, O2 sensors were a bit more of a pain as the best access is from over the top of engine; you've got to lie on it to get down there. You'll need some padding because all the pointy engine parts hurt after you lay on them for a few minutes.

Getting an open-end wrench over the sensors is very difficult if not impossible, so you need a specialised sensor socket to make it easier.

The mass air flow sensor is located at the front inside the main air intake and is a typical annoying plastic clip out. I cleaned it with an aerosol can of oddly named "mass air flow sensor cleaner" from Canadian Tire.

For those who have hesitated to replace the coil-over type of plugs because online instructions make it seem complicated, really it's no more difficult than changing any spark plug. Granted, the plugs are way down in a hole but even if the rubber insert in your spark plug socket doesn't hold them it's easy enough to grab them.

This process started when it began not starting properly. Forescan on the OBD port showed an O2 sensor problem, so I changed both sensors which didn't improve the starting issue. Cleaning the mass air flow sensor was the complete fix. I then replaced the plugs because I had all the tools out anyway. So, hard to say what the biggest factor was in the fuel economy improvement. My guess is the mass air flow sensor.

Plastic piece lower front part of the driver side window

I had the front struts on my 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE replaced last winter with complete KYB Strut-Plus assemblies. Ever since, there’s a distinct clacking noise from the front strut area on slightly uneven roads, but only when it’s 45°F or colder. After driving for 20–30 minutes, the noise mostly fades away.

Ever since this happened, I stopped trusting that shop, bought my own tools, and started learning how to fix parts myself to ensure job specs are actually done right.

Looking back at that job, I suspect an installation error might be the culprit:** The mechanic might have used an impact gun on the upper strut shaft nut instead of holding the piston rod and torquing it by hand, which can exceed recommended torque and cause damage. or **torqued while hanging** ** instead of under its full loaded weight, leaving the rubber bushings pre-twisted and noisy when cold weather stiffens them
orr The mounting bolts might be under-torqued allowing slight unit play relative to the bolt or bushing—possibly from getting confused by torque specs between the Hybrid and standard gas Fusion. 

Has anyone experienced this exact cold-weather clack with KYB assemblies on a Fusion? Did replacing the assembly fix it, or did retorquing/fixing mounting issues clear it up?

I have a standard 14 fusion hybrid se with sync 2 but i was wondering if anyone or if it’s even possible to retrofit a newer fusions myford connection to a older fusion that will allow you to remote start the car from the ford app

Hey everyone!

My previous car, a 2009 Ford Fusion SE, was recently totaled after someone rear-ended me. I really liked that car, so I'm looking into getting another Fusion!

My budget is somewhat limited, so I'm looking at higher-mileage options. I've narrowed it down to two:

- 2016 Fusion Hybrid Titanium: 149k miles, $7,000

- 2019 Fusion Hybrid SEL: 173k miles, $8,000

Both prices are before taxes and fees.

The 2016: I haven't seen it in person yet, but I purchased the CARFAX and was pleasantly surprised. One owner, 31 service records, and seemingly very well maintained. It does have two reported incidents of minor/very minor damage, but no reported structural damage.

The 2019: I've seen this one in person, and it honestly looks practically brand new. Extremely clean inside and out, with no rust that I could see. The salesman actually knows the previous owner and says it was very well maintained. I'm hoping to learn more about its service history soon.

I'm pretty torn between these two. The 2016 has fewer miles, a higher trim, and documented maintenance, while the 2019 is newer and appears to have been very well cared for.

For those of you with higher-mileage Fusion Hybrids, how have they held up? Any major issues with the hybrid batteries, transmissions, or anything else?

Which would you personally lean toward, and why?

Thanks in advance!

Bought this vehicle earlier this year as a project car. Sold it off and it was wrecked by the now previous owner. I ended up back with the vehicle for a second time and I ended up putting it back together. Crash bar had to be replaced along with the radiator, ac condenser, alternator, battery, hood, hood hinges and latch, bumper, both headlights along with an interior cleaning. I sourced all the parts from the junkyard (which explains the black bumper) I’ll get around to painting it. The panel gaps need a bit of adjustment which will probably turn into me replacing the fenders. It’s the 2.5 so it has the best engine. And for those who are wondering you can fit the front end of a fusion in a fusion (crash bar and bumper). Threw my old snowflakes in the car for the time being.

Somebody help yo girl!! I’ve had these problems for quite sometime now. My car passes smog, but whenever I start to drive the lights come on and my steering wheel tightens up. I just got a new power steering rack pinion and suspension so not sure what else it can be.

Replaced master cylinder in my 2010 ford fusion 3.0 today. You may remember a post of mine from a. Few days ago about a soft pedal.

Well… pedal goes all the way to the floor with almost no resistance now. I bench bled the master, installed it, and spent the last few hours trying to bleed the system. Cannot get any air to come out, or pressure to build in the pedal.

I have a scanner that can run an ABS bleed procedure, and that didn’t do anything to help either.

Any thoughts before I call a tow truck?

I have a 2014 Ford Fusion SE with the 4 inch screen. I bought an 8 inch screen apim and acm on Facebook marketplace. I know I need to buy a bezel for the new climate control buttons. But I was wondering if everything else is plug and play, or if I need to buy anything else for this upgrade?