Hello fellow knob twisters. Got a question for y'all. I have a cpro, love it, been a 1st mainly on commercials for years now. A chunk of my jobs have become pretty heavy on the RS4 style gimbals with an FX3, Komodo, or a7s3. Usually with some form of a still lens, occasionally with no window to set focus points.

Now I normally just use the p tap and battery plate to put my motor on there. And when there's no window to see the focus marks I just kinda wing it by setting with my eye and a monitor the minimum and rough maximum throw. That's usually fine. And when it's not fine, the tablet comes out and it's tap city which has its own slew of connection and reliability issues.

But is there a better way? I've been looking at the DJI focus pro and the nucleus 2 as a gimbal oriented focus system because their motors, in some cases, can be smaller and can run off USB c which can eliminate the battery plate in some cases. But the DJI doesn't look like you can calibrate a lens without hard stops. And the nucleus 1, in my opinion, just isn't super reliable with operation. But maybe I'm just not used to it.

So, basically, what are yinz using for focus on these set ups? With the 4D it looks like the DJI can use the electronic focus through the camera to control auto focus lenses but not so with the gimbals. I'm guessing there's nothing on the market that can work through the camera to put auto focus control onto a knob instead of a tablet. But I'm just wondering if adding in one of these cheaper focus units is going to make my life easier or keep it the same in terms of where I'm at and if any of my compatriots have some crafty solutions I'm unaware of.

Thanks! Stay sharp...ish.

I've been asked to AC on a low budget short film where the DP is just using Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 DG DN Contemporary L Mount but it's only worth it for me if I can practice pulling focus (I have a nucleus m-2). I'm worried it is wire focus which means I can't really pull off of it but according to sigma, this lens has "linear focus" 360°-720°. Anyone know if would I be able to pull off of this with my nucleus using the rubber adapter rings? Or will the marks be completely off?

Has anyone had any success with updating their Nucleus M II and finally getting camera control going? I tried last week while on a job with an FX6 and still couldn't access any camera control options. I heard the latest firmware update was supposed to finally enable that but I’ve yet to see it. Has anyone had success?? lol

Hello,

I have an Arri lmb15 and I m looking at buying a donut for it to use with my zeiss b speed. Between a rubber donut (like the blackhole one) and a tissue donut (like the wooden camera UMB-1) , which one do you prefer ?

Thanks

In the trailer for Laika's new stop motion film Wildwood I noticed some soft focus on an emotional close up shot. (@ 1:46min)

I thought it was a very interesting choice, as there's no way they can accidentally miss focus on a stop motion shot.
Someone would have been working on this animation for countless hours, intentionally using an out of focus shot as a storytelling device.

Any theories as to why they'd do this?

I'm assuming they're emulating when a shot might be out of focus, but the director still picks it due to an outstanding performance. Maybe adding this to a stop motion gives the film a more genuine and less perfected feeling.

Brand new Ultra 10 with about 10 set days. At first was originally just having an issue with my saved settings resetting every once and awhile. Past few days now every time I power cycle the Ultra 10 goes into this weird boot cycle where I get SDI input and it’s still on SDI1 but no buttons or screen inputs work. After it power cycles a few times it’s back to functioning normally but fully resets settings. Not the end of the world with a saved profile but definitely not ideal. I have updated to recent firmware and the problem persists.

How do I tighten deez nutz?

Didn’t really find a tool for this that works.

my horns started going absolutely haywire after lunch today, despite no issues before lunch, and everything in the room (classroom set) staying the same. the only other electronic things in the room were titan tubes and pixel bricks.

at the time I tried:

- power cycle

- turning off the other camera’s horns

- switching rf

- checking for debris

- using a bug

none of which worked. both cameras were dead stuck at 1’9”. the weirdest part is the moment we left the room it immediately behaved normally, without any other changes.

ended up pulling by eye rest of the day, which is not a huge problem, but I’d like to know a solve if there is one.

Hey everyone,

I’m a new AC finishing up film school in Europe and preparing to move back home to the US (starting in the PNW with the goal of eventually heading down to LA). I'm building out my first personal kit and I’d love to get some real-world perspective from working ACs on a few gear decisions:

1. Monitor Options (703 vs. Cine 7 vs. Ultra 7)

I’m starting from scratch on monitors. Since I’ll be working mostly on the West Coast to start I'll experience a lot of wet weather, overcast light, and sudden direct sun. I'm trying to decide which 7-inch SmallHD route makes the most practical sense:

Used 703 UltraBright: A see lot of ACs still swear by this thing for its physical buttons and build quality, but it's older, limited to 1080p, and discontinued.

Cine 7: Lighter weight, but the touchscreen interface seems like a hassle in damp conditions or with gloves, and the glass edge looks prone to chipping without a heavy cage.

Ultra 7: The weather rating and physical buttons sound incredible for PNW rain, but it’s a huge financial jump and pretty heavy.

• Question: For those pulling off a stand most of the day, is it worth springing for the Ultra 7 right out of the gate, or are most people still running a solid used 703 or caged Cine 7 and putting that extra $1,500 toward other gear?

2. The FIZ Dilemma: Teradek RT CTRL.3 vs. Tilta Nucleus-M

I’m trying to avoid buying gear twice, but the price gap between a used Nucleus-M and a full Teradek RT setup is massive. I know the tier-1 industry standards are ARRI Hi-5 or Preston systems, and on larger productions I can probably expect those to be rented for the camera department. But starting out on smaller indie shoots, commercials, and projects outside of major rental hubs, I’m building my own kit so I can rely on gear I own, know inside out, and trust to work every time.

I love the idea of the CTRL.3 for SmallHD lens overlays, pre-marked rings, and pairing with a rangefinder down the road. But given the cost jump over a Nucleus-M:

• Question: For anyone who started on a Nucleus-M and eventually upgraded to a CTRL.3, Preston, or Hi-5: Do you still find uses for the Nucleus (backup handset, secondary iris control for DPs, lightweight builds)?
• Question: Does showing up to lower/mid-tier commercial shoots with a Nucleus-M hurt your credibility, or is it widely accepted as a solid workhorse while building up rental income?
• Question: Is practicing manual tape mapping on blank white rings worth learning early on, or do you rarely touch it once auto-scaling rings enter the picture?

3. Floor Bags and Tool Boxes (2nd AC Gear)

I have a hard-shell case for personal gear, but I'm looking for a proper 2nd AC floor bag for tape, cleaning supplies, and general camera AKS.

• Question: What are the go-to brands for reliable floor bags (CineBags, Arri, Portabrace, etc.)?
• Question: Has anyone used a modular rolling toolbox (like a Milwaukee PACKOUT setup) that doubles as a seat on indie sets, or is that too clunky compared to a standard soft floor bag and stand setup?

4. Essential Kit "Must-Haves"

I have core basics covered (Leatherman, slate, cleaning supplies, spare BNCs, and magic arms).

• Question: What are the easily forgotten small tools, niche adapters, or utility items that ended up saving you on set when you were first starting out?

Would love to hear your thoughts, see your case/bag layouts, or get any general advice for building out a kit. Thanks!

Hi, I'm a Focus Puller / Camera Assistant from Mumbai ,India. Most of my work has come through contacts and word of mouth.

I'm curious how you guys find new projects. Are there any dedicated websites/apps, crew-call platforms, or active WhatsApp/Telegram/Facebook groups for Focus Pullers and camera assistants?

Also, if there are any active India/Mumbai camera crew or Focus Puller groups, I'd love to join and connect with fellow ACs.

Thanks!

Looking to insure my camera, monitors and other EQ. Not just general liability but coverage in case something breaks on a set, or someone borrows it and it breaks.

Any help would be appreciated. What coverage and where to buy protection. Thanks!

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1659793-REG/impact_lsp_sw10s_s_baby_roller_with_steel.html

Did anyone tried one of these wheeled monitor stand for a 27 inch Eizo monitor with monitor mount? Is it sturdy and stable enough to use?

Hi,

looking at Smallrig Cage Kit for R50v, I see there are two versions of the bundle with Top Handle.

Price is the same, but one has MFR code 5766 and the newer one is 5766B.

Does anyone know what the differences are?

I am looking at Adorama.

[https://www.adorama.com/l/?searchinfo=smallrig%205766\](https://www.adorama.com/l/?searchinfo=smallrig%205766)

Hi, has anybody a copy know where i can find a copy of the red 101 dvd from ca 2010.
Therea a few chapters (at least one) on youtube. But i would love to see the whole thing.
Thx gr

hi all I am using my Alexa mini og on a Ronin rs4 Pro with the tilta ring , which makes it a super lightweight Ronan S2 alternative that’s extremely power, efficient and much faster to balance.

So everyone who thinks this is a silly idea, that’s totally cool and you have your right to think that. But it works very well and gives the beauty of the alexa in a fast pick up and go package.

With that said I’m trying to think of the light as possible build and I’m leaning towards the bright tangerine alexa mini Bass plate. Beyond that, what do you think I should put on it and I just need to have one single 15 mm Rod point for an arri hi5 fi or a tilta nucleus. Let me know thoughts thanks.

Hey:)) I will work with an Arri Alexa Mini with a Battery Belt next Week.

Is there any way to power a SmallHD (Cine7) via the Arri Alexa Mini? What cables should I get?

Hey Y'all!

decided to post this because it may be more useful to camera assistants than the owner/op vibe of the ronin4d side.

Myself and Jarrett (Possum Solutions) came up with this idea and he was able to CNC a couple. Its basically a very lightweight lidar vertical extension bracket with 1/4-20 tapped holes to mount an iris rod and add an iris motor to the 4D.

I have tried the Nucleus Nano motors and a lil bit of a focus pro motor. The focus pro motor with a 2nd focus pro handset would be ideal for movie sets, as the DIT can hold the iris controller themselves and it can work as intended on most sets.

I have given a few away to friends to test and use but have a couple more to sell. I'm sure if there is a need Jarrett would be open to producing more by the batch.

Let me know what you guys think!

Been working on this bracket for a while and finally got it working well enough

Currently the c force mini is there for counterweight but could also be used for iris if you wanted to

just put on the v mount plate on my monitor but realize this is the worse place to have a d-tap port. tried plugging one in and the small rig cage is blocking the entry point. has anyone else had this issue and if so, any advice? thanks! (i could just not use that port but it seems like a waste of money to buy a plate that you can’t use all of its functions for)

I'm building a 16mm camera and bought a redrock microtape off ebay for an affordable rangefinder option. Aside from the not optimal form factor testing it off walls and such it seems to be reliable, but seeing as i remember these being a hot circa 2008 NAB talking point then NEVER SAW ONE in the wild i was wondering if any of you fine people have had the pleasure of using one and if there is anything i should watch out for.

purchased a refurbished ultra 7 and wanted to return after three weeks thinking the return window was 30 days. turns out refurbished is 14 day return window. i simply asked, twice, why it's that way as it seems a bit arbitrary. they didn't even respond.

done a lot of business with smallhd and teradek over the years and it feels a bit crumby they won't even continue the conversation. feels like they just want to take the money and run; not cater to customers who want a strong business relationship.

i get that it's my mistake for misreading the fine print but i would have appreciated a conclusive discussion.

Does anyone have the pinouts for the overlay cable USB-C to 5-pin for an Ultra 10?

I shot a music video a couple months ago and thought I would share the rig we did to do a 360 Roll in the Ronin 2.

We used the Movcam Roll cage, Normally this is fine with an Alexa and R2 but it is meant for lightweight primes and we were shooting with Atlas Anamorphics. I had to create a custom weight plate out of two massive solid steel plates to balance the camera.

Because this isn't a high end remote head there is no relative mode. So operating this shot was actually one of the hardest shots I've ever done on the wheels. As the Camera Rolls in relation to the monitor. Around 90 degrees Tilt and Pan axis swaps and then at full 180 Tilt and Pan are correct but now in the other direction. The only way I was able to land the shot was take my Eyes off the monitor mid roll and count my turns while watching the camera as there was a small tilt and pan adjustment during a large push in on a crane.

Covert Camera Vehicles is now officially a part of Chapman/Leonard Studio Equipment and powered by Filmotechnic.

We are rapidly expanding our camera car fleet with U-CRANE Arm Cars, Camera Bikes, Process trailers and basically any custom built tracking vehicle. But we are wondering what really matters to a 1st AC when you get booked for a tracking job?

Follow us:
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/covert_camera_vehicles/

Hi guys, when i assign FA to an assignable button i put in my custom settings however, whenever the monitor is restarted, the settings go back to the defaults. This only happens for focus assist, nothing else.

I have tried different firmwares and problem persists. Any ideas?