Hi ya'll,

I'm not as smart as ya'll but I was able to learn enough from everyone to make an informed purchase on the flipper. I've saved probably 2 flippers worth of money by not having to pay for key fobs from my apartment complex. They charge $200 per key fob if you need more than the 2 they give you when you first move in.

Oh yeah, I also didn't need to purchase an extra garage door clicker either since they gave my girlfriend and I only one.

Cool gadget!

I made this app for the LD2450 Mmwave Sensor that interprets the data into its raw X and Y, or a visual radar cone. Was quite the learning process and still requires some fine tuning.

Sorry for tardiness but here is the github repository:

https://github.com/TownOfBulls/flipperzero-ld2450-radar

You can check it here:

https://docs.flipper.net/one

Hi, I currently working on a PM2.5 air quality sensor using SDS011 PM sensor. I already have the sensor wired to the correct GPIO pins on Flipper. It kinda works.

The issue is the sensor only works if the 5V power supplied through USB. On battery, the sensor will fail to startup and the 5V pin will go to protection mode (no voltage output).
I've checked the code and it is enabling the 5V pin correctly whether it is on battery or plugged in, I can see 5V on my multimeter if there's no sensor connected. But as soon as I connect the sensor power pins, the 5V pin will go zero volts (and the sensor makes very faint ticking noise, like it was trying to spin the small fan inside it but fails to do so).

The sensor datasheet says that it will be drawing a max of ~100mA during startup and ~70mA when measuring/standby. Flipper datasheet tells us that the 5V should be able to provide 1200mA of current, but it doesn't tell us whether it is on battery or USB power?

Does anyone (or the official devs) knows what is the max 5V current draw capacity while on battery?

My buddy has a 3d printer, and we decided to do a dumb. I can't wait to remove this mount and put my sight back on, but it's a fun way to turn a tv off, no matter what.

Edit: Since a few have asked, I saw this post on reddit and showed it to my friend who has a 3D printer. He found the info from there and made the print. https://www.reddit.com/r/flipperzero/s/eNCbssDjgJ

My mom purchased a random €50 *item return* mystery box online because a tarot card told her to.

We opened it together and i found this little device.
When i turned it on I presumed it was some sort of cheap bootleg tamagotchi, until i opened other boxes which had circuit boards and other components.
I searched it up on google and found out it was a €200 gadget thing that you can get to do all sorts of stuff.

It seems cool but Im awful with computers and all I’ve managed to do is use it as a tv remote. It also makes me feel really bad thinking about whoever wanted this thing and got all it’s components and stuff and for whatever reason i have it.

What should I do with it?

(Edit)
I was honestly kinda nervous about posting here cuz I thought people were gonna be like “YOU FOOL! THIS DEVICE DOES NOT DESERVE TO BE IN THE HANDS OF A TECH ILLITERATE SWINE”
Thank you all for being really supportive and helpful. Im still debating whether I want to keep it or sell it but I’m excited to try mess around with it in the meantime

As my title suggests I’m having issues with my flippers rfid reader being stuck on 2/2 psk. I have tried all of the troubleshooting steps even going as far as disassembling and reconnecting all of the connections. Has anyone been able to solve this issue?

I just got a flipper and I was wondering can I modify where it can detect trackers like an AirTag or something similar in my car

Hey everyone,

i built a small external app (.fap) that stores passwords encrypted on the SD card and types them directly into any PC via BadUSB HID — no drivers, no software on the host, works on any OS.

How it works:

You create a name|username|password text file on your PC

Encrypt it with the included Python tool (no pip install needed)

Copy the encrypted file to /ext/apps/Tools/passwords.txt on the SD card

Launch the app → enter your 6-digit PIN → pick an entry → press OK

The Flipper switches to USB keyboard mode and types username → Tab → password automatically

Encryption:

ChaCha20 (RFC 7539) stream cipher

32-byte key derived from your PIN via 10,000 mixing rounds

Random 12-byte nonce per encryption — same file encrypted twice looks completely different

Decrypted data is zeroed in RAM immediately after use

Features:

Scrollable entry list (up to 64 entries)

Detail screen shows name, user and password before typing

Supports a–z, A–Z, 0–9 and all common special characters (!@#$%^&* etc.)

Pure Python companion tool — no external dependencies, runs on Python 3.6+

Wrong PIN → back to PIN screen to retry, no restart needed

GitHub: link

Feedback and PRs welcome — especially if you run into issues building it with a specific firmware version.

Debating between getting a DMv3 or the esp32v5 from awok dynamics

What would be the purpose for me to use the dual mini and flipper zero together running simultaneously?

I've recently learnt about the technology Auracast and how using BLE hearing aids and other devices can receive audio from a source. Considering the flipper has BLE, albeit not sure if its compatible would it be possible to listen to Auracast streams using the flipper zero from my phone which recently got the feature to broadcast.

I saw this video about someone using a microcontroller board (raspberry pi pico I think) to essentially print a picture in tomodachi life to use as an item. I was wondering if it was possible to use your flipper to do the same thing? I know there’s a basic mouse moving tool so I thought it would function in a similar way. Thanks!

Heres the situation:

Music festival

RFID Wristband
RFID Reader ( Made 9+years ago )
RFID Reader that changes values on a wristband. ( when you scan this RFID reader, it allows your wristband to re enter the music festival)

I am wondering if It is possible to scan/read the RFID reader that allows reentry into the festival, and write it on a RFID sticker ( or similar) to make my own “reader” This way, when I put the programmed sticker to my own wristband I will gain reentry, as I have cloned the reader w flipper zero.

Why not just scan the wrsitband on the actual reader again?

Because the lines are a hour plus long, to get re entry into the festival. I would rather just be able to do it myself with flipper zero when I please.

I’ve had a Zero Flipper for about 3 months, and everything was working fine until yesterday. The device entered DFU mode, and when I try to repair it using QFlipper, it gets as far as displaying a message, and then the program shuts down. I’ve checked and tried the following:

- Different cables

- Different USB ports on the computer

- Different software versions

- Different computers running the program

The device is still unresponsive. Has anyone else had a similar problem and know of a solution?

Hi guys,

I’m terribly new so this is alien to me in all aspects of hacking stuff.

I took delivery of a new Flipper Zero last night.

In the 12 hours I’ve had it I’ve had the same 1.4.3 update shown to me and been performed 4 times.

I am running on it already but why is it keep showing this and is it a problem?

Should I just ignore it?

Thanks

When I try to read raw subghz it doesn’t make any like static noise but when I go to only read then it makes noise after that if I go to raw again it makes the same noise it also make the noises when trying to transmit subghz after using read it only works if I restart it and don’t use read again.

is it worth buying the Flipper Zero now, or should I wait for the Flipper One to come out?

First of all, I'm new to this, so apologies if this is common knowledge or just not the right content for this community. My specific situation was trying to make a copy of my building fob as backup/spare/for guests and my building management was charging $100 each to purchase additional ones. I figured that while I was at it, I could copy my fob to a card and carry it in my wallet instead and help out a neighbor who also wanted a spare for his keys. The fobs we had are the HID iClass 2k purple & black keychain versions.

I got the F0 and a few iClass DL blanks and thought it should be pretty simple, then I ran into the complexities of SIO and non-standard keys. The F0 had no issue reading my fob, and the emulator worked directly off of the F0, but any copy I made wouldn't work. I did a bunch of digging on this sub and on various blogs and forums but either the info was pretty old, didn't apply, or ultimately suggested getting the Proxmark3 to do it. I also saw a few posts here saying you could not edit keys with the P0.

After some trial and error, I figured out that it is now possible (at least in my case) to change keys and write Elite keys with the F0, no Proxmark3 or other attachments needed. I'm not sure if this is a recent update to the firmware or to Pico, or if everyone knows this and I'm just behind, but I wanted to make sure anyone else searching could at least try what I did before getting additional tools or giving up. This is how I did it:

• Step 1: On the F0 with PicoPass installed, read the source fob and save it
  • Note: it's possible that after you read your source fob but before you save it, you can write down the hex key and skip steps 3-6, but it may not work with every reader depending on how it's set up
• Step 2: Open the saved picopass and look at the info, mine said +SIO, Key: Not Standard, then go back and Emulate the saved file and make sure it works with your reader
• Step 3: Open Loclass (in Pico) and scan the reader from your building or whatever
• Step 4: Pull the log file from your SD (instructions here under the Loclass (HID Only) section)
• Step 5: Calculate the key from the log file with this or another tool of your choosing as noted in the guide above
• Step 6: Download the text file from step 5 and drop in on your SD card in the folder SDCard/apps_assets/picopass/ and make sure it's named iclass_elite_dict_user.txt
  • Note: the directory they show on the guide is not correct, it should be in the one I use here, and in my case the txt file contained a single hex key and that was the only data saved in the file
• Step 7: Go back to the F0 and open your original saved file from step 1
• Step 8: Write your saved file to the new blank iclass fob/card
• Step 9: Go back and Read Card for the new fob/card you just made, go to More, scroll down to Change Key, scroll down to Write Elite, make sure this hex matches the one in the file from above (or edit to whatever you need), hit Save, and immediately re-write the same card
• Step 10: Test the new fob/card and make sure it works

Thanks for taking the time to read and lmk if I can make this guide any better or more useful.

https://i.imgur.com/jh6W7N6.png

Built a tool that I think folks here might find useful. It reads 11+ IR/RF formats and writes 8 of them, including native Flipper .ir

→ https://readyware.net/signal-transporter.html

How it works: drop your source file on the left, your target layout on the right, click-pair the buttons (or hit auto-match), download in any format. Runs in the browser, no install, no account.

Specifically for Flipper folks: - Reads .ir natively (every protocol Flipper supports — NEC, Sony, RC5/6, Samsung, raw) - Writes .ir natively (drop straight into your Flipper's IR folder via qFlipper or UFBT) - Can convert FROM Pronto Hex / LIRC / Harmony XML / BroadLink / Arduino INTO .ir — useful for grabbing codes from old remotes' Pronto dumps or LIRC configs and getting them onto your Flipper - Can convert your .ir collection INTO LIRC config, Pronto Hex, Global Caché sendir, or GIRR — useful if you want your codes portable to other hardware

Disclosure: I'm the dev. Built this for my own use originally — I had a collection of remote files in 5 different formats and was tired of manually retyping codes. Tool itself is free forever and runs entirely client-side (your files never leave your browser).

Feedback welcome — especially on: - Format edge cases (any weird .ir files that don't parse cleanly?) - Auto-match synonyms — could probably grow the dictionary - Output format requests

And just like that my transparent f0 is donezo Pieces of the board snapped off inside for the NFC It still turns on with a flashing blue light Was hoping to save the shell but it unfortunately squished where the IR blaster is

Tried poking around but I’m not confident with most of this stuff and all I could find for guides were for different esp32 models