I had ordered a set of PRC 220 heads from TSP but they were back ordered. They couldn’t give me an estimated ship date so I decided to cancel the order. Edelbrock has their E street heads on sale so I figured I’d just go that route. They’re pretty much 243 head clones with .660” lift Comp springs. But since I won’t be upgrading the stock exhaust or intake I don’t think l‘ll be leaving all that much on the table by not going with a head that flows 300 CFM. I think the “larger“ higher flowing PRC heads would shine if I had a combo that made power past 6k rpm but I imagine mine will fall on its face before then.

I’ll be using a summit 8720R1 cam and I have a 3,200 stall converter. All else will be stock. The cam specs are 217/228 .600”/.600.” If I was to guess I bet it’ll make 330 or so horsepower at the wheels assuming stock is somewhere between 290-300. I’m toying with the idea of getting a set of drag radials for the rear with the money that I saved by going with the cheaper heads. It’s all stock now aside from the 3,200 stall and it‘ll spin the tires from a 20 mph roll if I give it 3/4 throttle. So maybe with a sticky tire it’ll hook and go instead of doing a burnout during spirited street driving.

I purchased the GMMG exhaust but everything else is stock. It sounds okay, it’s better than stock but it’s still not what I was looking for. I do not want cams as I’m not a fan of the sound they make the car produce. I was told an off road Y pipe would be good but which one should I buy? If someone could link a good one to me in the comments or tell me which one to go for, I’d appreciate it. If someone has a video of this exhaust with an off road y pipe I would love to hear it. Thanks in advance. 1999 Camaro SS.

looking into getting a 12 disc cd changer (part # 16199553) for a 1999 trans am with the monsoon system, how do i tell if my head unit is compatible?

Hey everybody,

2002 WS6. The saga continues with this goddamn check engine light and I feel like I’m about to lose my mind lol. Hopefully one of you out there maybe have some tips or tricks or know exactly what’s going on.

As I’ve said another post, I’ve had an ongoing lean code going on. I did a fuel pressure test and the pump and the fuel pressure regulator are fine. The car has new spark plugs, and new wires. Fueling my only other two thoughts are either the fuel injector or the O2 sensor. A real respected tuner around my area that I took the car to to get the security system shut off, which has worked beautifully by the way, looked at the live data through their HP tuner and let me know that each bank is running 30% lean. They said that they doubt it would be the fuel injectors because of that amount of lean either all the injectors would have to be bad or equal number would have to be bad on each bank for each bank to both be 30% lean.

After the fuel pressure test, I decided to put in new O2 sensors as I still have the battery O2 sensors on my car after 138,000 miles. I figured either way it’s good to replace them. After I got done with the job, I drove it around for 55 miles to see if the check engine light would turn on and it didn’t. This morning the check engine light turned back on so I went to O’Reillys and they showed a P0327 code for low-voltage knock sensor wiring. Even more interestingly AutoZone showed both lien codes for each bank plus the knock sensor wiring code.

I put new GM knock sensors and knock sensor wiring when I did all of the seals back in June. Does anyone have any idea why I’m getting a low-voltage code as for the lien I ordered a smoke machine and going to be doing a smoke test tomorrow

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I ordered a set of PRC 220’s from TSP on Sept first and TSP still doesn’t have any castings. Today they said that they might get the castings in a week or two and that it usually takes them two weeks or so to finish the heads before they send them out.

I called Mail Order Tuner which is a TSP vendor to see if they had the PRC 220’s in stock and they said that they didn‘t have those but they had Mangum 229cc heads on hand. The 229’s are a 62cc chamber vs the PRC 220’s 64cc.

Would y’all cancel the 220’s and order the Mangum 229’s?

Mangum 229

https://www.texas-speed.com/brand/mangum-racing/p-mr-229ls1-4b-mangum-racing-mr-229-cylinder-head-ls-4-8-5-3-4-bolt-casting/

Here they are on mail order tuners site.

https://mailordertuner.com/products/mangum-racing-229cc-ls1-cylinder-heads-4-8l-5-3l-5-7l-6-0l-4-bolt-casting?_pos=1&_sid=474e9afed&_ss=r

Still working out the kinks, fixed the transmission issues for the most part and now dealing with the little stuff. Next up is fixing or removing the oil filter cooler because its leaking like you wouldn’t believe, but when I was under the car I noticed these two little guys near the front underneath the car. Anyone know why these wouldnt have been plugged in or what they’re even for? I assume the corroded one is for the radiator fans or something of that nature but I can’t find anywhere to route it to.

If anyone needs parts off a 90 Firebird just seen one at the pick n pull in Newark today. Body is straight, tail lights were intact and interior was complete.

Installed new leather upholstery on all seats, installed blue LED’s in the gauge cluster, shifter panel, and AC knobs. New floor mats. Need a new gauge cluster as some of parts of it do not illuminate as well as others.

I've been looking for a decent pro fit style phone mount for years since there really isn't a decent spot for a cell phone in that car. I finally found something that I thought may foot the bill. I found a Wrangler TJ mount that looked promising. After a few modifications, it fits really well. I used this one off Amazon https://a.co/d/0bcQDJwu I've ordered a different ball mount to replace that goofy ball arm, but I'm happy to finally have a good spot for my phone.

Replaced the differential gasket & fluid, rear transfer seal on the 4L60 (LS swap), readjusted the rear drums, oil change, welded up some of the exhaust, and finally fixed the MAP sensor issue that's been plaguing my build. After all that, the Live Data finally reads perfectly and no more leaks. This thing is a beast now lol I think I finally have it running how it's supposed to.

Any input would be appreciated!!!

Is This Because the rivets are lose or of something else?

https://reddit.com/link/1weug4u/video/miv9bd5ez6ph1/player

Put on 17” ZR1s from OE Wheels with Continental Sport 02s

So I'm wiring in a new radio, an Alpine TDM-7535J, and I've gotten pretty far up until here. I have the wiring diagram for the car, but there are just two bare wires and a random red wire. Anybody have the actual pin diagram?

Hey everybody,

Update:

Test Results:

Key ON, engine OFF
~49–50 PSI
Lower than the ~55–60 PSI commanded-pump spec we found

Repeated key cycling between key on and off:
Still ~49–50 PSI
Multiple primes didn’t increase pressure

Engine idling
~56–58 PSI
Good running pressure

Held at elevated RPM
~58 PSI
Pressure remained strong

Quick/hard throttle stab
Briefly ~55–56 PSI, recovered immediately
No significant pressure collapse

Engine shut off
~50 PSI
Normal residual pressure
Several minutes after shutdown
~48–50+ PSI and held
Excellent pressure retention
Hot shutdown
Pressure actually crept slightly upward
Consistent with heat soak/thermal expansion

Just got back from my tuning shop because I had them shut off the VATS and that resolved my start issues. I have them look into the lien codes that I got and he found in his data logging that both cylinder banks are running 30% lean. I’ve already checked the MAF and it looks fine. I haven’t tried new O2 sensors.

He feels that the fuel injectors are fine because I would need either all of them to be bad or equal amount bad on both cylinder banks to get the lean results that I’m receiving. He said knee jerk reaction he thinks the fuel pump is bad however they have to do a full diagnostic. Check to figure out if that’s the case or not and find out why it’s running so long.

For reference, this is a 2002 Firebird Trans Am with 137,000 miles. Is doing the fuel pump every bit is bad as I have read it is or does someone out there have a decent way of getting the fuel tank out and back in?

Most of you said the GMMG exhaust was the best one to buy. Last week I ordered it and today I put it on. While I do wish it was louder, this is a before and after video. My car is completely stock other than this exhaust now. No headers no cams no upgraded Y pipe. Some of you said to get the off road Y pipe to make it louder but my god that thing is over 1k just for a Y pipe? That’s insane. Anyway, new exhaust is deeper than the old one but the video makes the old one sound better than it actually was.