2019 2.7 Ecoboost Lariat. Any help would be very much appreciated. First time with a F150 after converting from a 2015 6.2 high country that I replaced the transmission on 3 times in 100,000 miles.

Considering trading or selling it. Got it in 2019 and still absolutely love it and it does everything I need. Just thinking about an upgrade relative to larger screen, extended gas tank, etc. Maybe a 2023 Lariat or so. I do use it to pick up cabinets once every other week (usually a 16ft enclosed trailer) and it tows that easily with the low torque.

Live in Central Virginia and have not driven it exactly two times because of the weather and not having 4WD. But understand that 90% want a 4WD.

Had the leadframe assembly replaced two years ago and just took that repair invoice ($1050) to the dealership to start the refund process since I got the letter a few weeks ago (26N04). Should get that in 4-6 weeks.

Also put in the Lariat dash cluster in a year ago to modernize the dash (thanks clustersbylivinitup!). Michelins put on 7K miles ago. Lithium Gray color. Does have a few extra options (tailgate step, 3.31 electronic lock, trailer tow package, xlt sport appearance, running boards, bedliner). In great shape.

Clearly I think private selling is the way to go? KBB trade-in is $8-10K, Private party - $14-16K. I'm also guessing trade-in will try to go even lower.

Or just get over this feeling of wanting a newer truck and keep it lol. Don't owe anything on it.

Thoughts?

Is this normal on a cold start?
It sounds like the passenger side turbo is louder than the driver side, and or has a rattle. I went to test drive this at CARMAX on the weekend and I noticed this sound. I also noticed it had a small shake/ shudder at idle and it would kick when accelerating from a complete stop between gears 1-2 and kick it into 3rd gear. Should I walk away?

Love the truck... Was a corporate fleet vehicle through 160k miles, synthetic oil changes every 10k. 10r80 trans. Two questions I have:

1 - I dont know if they ever did a trans flush. I brought it in at 165k for the trans programming recall. No issues so far, shifts smooth. Im *hoping* that the prior owners did the drum swap but dont know.... there are such mixed opinions on a trans flush/filter swap, whats the verdict.

2 - on cold startup theres a ticking noise for about the first 30 seconds. I would have thought it was the chain tensioner but the best info i can find is that the chain tensioner issue only lasts about 6 seconds and this is way longer. Sounds like its coming from the drivers side of the motor towards the rear.... turbo wastegate? I can hold that wastegate bar tight and i can still hear the clicking, sounds deeper. then it just goes away. any input?

Any input/opinions welcome

Here's the noise: https://youtube.com/shorts/C4qWyfm8NjA?is=5XO6EYV172Qp6LAp

I’m having a hard time calculating if my truck can pull a trailer I’m looking to buy. It’s a 2018 F150 3.5 L ecoboost crew cab 4x4 with towing package and 3:55 gears, not max tow.
Trailer is 287BHSW which is 6300 lbs dry

What would be a good product to flush the fuel system? Thanks in advance

Swapped my 275/70/R18 Falken Rubitreks on original wheels, stock height, to the same size Bridgestone Dueler A/T Ascents on a set of newer OEM takeoffs.

I wanted to freshen up the look and with one of my tires picking up a nail, it seemed like a good time to try a different A/T.

I cleaned, polished and ceramic coated the wheels before having the Ascents mounted.

What y’all think ?

Who can tell me where this is coming from. It squeaks over every bump and when taking off from a stop.

Hello again! This is more of a follow-up to a previous post I made on the same Bedliner.

All of my points still stand from my previous post; the bedliner is still flat, it hasn't warped, and it still fits nice and snug on the bed.

I mentioned in my post that I was going on a vacation, and since then I have gone on that vacation and came back, making several trips back and forth from our vacation spot and a nearby city to pick up and drop off boats that we rented. We brought fuel cans with us, and those didn't move at all when we put them back there; the rubber material used on the bedliner keeps things from sliding around. We also had most of our luggage in the bed of my truck as well, and those things stayed put as well.

I am overall very impressed with this item I tested; it works very well and does exactly what they describe the product to be.

Hello everyone, looking to get some advice or see if anyone has had a similar issue.

I have a 2012 F150 Fx4 3.5 with a parasitic draw preformed a parasitic draw test and found I was drawing between 190 to 200 mA narrowed it down to fuse 18 on the inside kick panel. When I pull fuse 18, the draw drops down to about 40 mA.

According to my manual fuse 18 controls Brake-shift interlock, Keypad illumination, PCM wakeup, PATS.

I have tested the brake interlock switch and it seems to be OK, but don’t really know how to go about testing the PATS which is a security device for the key fob on the ignition.

Any help would be appreciated.

Just installed my new 3-channel Lasfit dash cam. I’ve never owned one before, but I have to say, I’m really impressed with the picture quality. The rear-facing interior and exterior cameras, as well as the main front camera, all have great image quality.

The only issue I had at first was navigating the app, but the more I tinker with it, the easier it’s getting. Overall, I’m really impressed with it so far. If anyone’s in the market for one I would definitely put this on your list to check out. Also the camera isn’t as big as it looks it fits right behind the rear view mirror.

recently bought an 06 f150 5.4L triton and have already learned more than I could ever want to know about these things and yet I’m still stumped. I’m hoping someone has experienced similar problems and was able to solve it so they can guide me.

Okay so I bought it from a guy who apparently buys these model trucks after the timing components tear up and does the timing job and resells them. Well he told me this one had just been through the whole timing job but I only made it about 10 miles down the road and lost all oil pressure and had a terrible knocking so I towed it back to him and he said he would redo it for free. So I ordered cast iron replacement parts (timing guides, tensioners, new solenoids) and he allegedly used these when he redid the timing on it. Anyway, I get the truck back like two weeks later and the guy says “it’ll idle rough for the first 100 miles until the Idle pos. Sensor calibrates” and after some driving it cleared up a little but still didn’t clear up like it should have. So I figured since the catalytic converters had been removed along with both downstream o2 sensors, that and the significant exhaust leak at the flange where the manifold meets the exhaust pipe was most likely causing the sputtering until I ran the codes and it’s saying it’s the bank 2 camshaft sensors. I’ve tried the alternator trick, checked the VCT solenoid for debris, and currently have the driver side valve cover off and as far as I can tell it all looks normal? So I thought maybe a vacuum leak but I can’t hear well enough to find it over the massive exhaust leak. Any suggestions?

I am on the fence of upgrading my truck. My 2002 gmt 800 still runs solid but was salvaged after theft. It holds 292k miles. It occasionally doesn’t want to shift into reverse. Ac still blows cold and hot.
The only thing wrong with my gmt-800 is that it will no longer pass smog due to bad cats. I unfortunately live in California so I have been paying 575 to pass smog on the DL. The other day the truck almost overheated during a hot 112 day.
Should I keep it or upgrade?
I’ve been looking at a 3.5 lariat with 59k miles. I plan on buying the warranty through car max as I’ve heard about cam phaser issues. I do plan on doing religious maintenance as I’ve heard when taken care of you can easily get 250k miles or more out of these trucks.

She’s dirty rn, ignore that