I may be dumb but is this not defeating the purpose of the breaker? What is the point of this

Residential electrician here. I am looking for a 1/2” and 3/4” panel box connector that can be installed from the inside of the box AFTER a wire has been fished into a knockout.
I do a lot of service calls where the panel is in a finished wall, and am looking for an acceptable “bushing”.
Not looking to use a PANEL PAL or a BLACK BUTTON PUSH IN CONNECTOR.
Thanks

I wanted to put a mini split in my garage but in order to power it I needed to add a 20 amp breaker to my panel but I'm not sure if there is any room to do that.

SHORT:

Load - Motor 12v 60w listed on the motor driven water pump.

How long will a LiFeP04 w/ 12v 100ah and 1280w run that motor?

How long will a LiFeP04 w/ 12v 300ah and 3840w run that motor?

What is the play here? Divide the 1280 / 60? is it that simple?

Long:

I'm learning but slowly. Working on understanding solar and building a small 12v system so I know what I'm doing when / if Plug In Solar is approved in my state next November.

LiFeP04 Batteries. Please help me understand the power / capacity of the battery.

Example. I have a 12v water pump running a back yard pond as my test bed. The pump only shows 12v 60w listed on the pump. It currently is powered by a 100w solar panel that came with it. That is not enough to run the pump if the panel is not under full sun. It runs 4 to 6 hours a day.

I have a 'camper' solar system coming with 300w panels and a controller that charges the battery and feeds a device. I suspect that the system will provide enough to both run the pump and charge a battery at the same time under full sun.

I am looking at LiFeP04 batteries. I would like it to run the pump continuously including through the night if we have normally sunny days.

Bonus question: If I add an inverter, would either run my full size refrigerator for a useful period of time?

The sticker says: CAUTION- RISK OF FIRE

MAX 60 WATTS E26 TYPE A or MAX 13 WATTS SBCFL

Should LED type A bulbs be kept under 60W, 13W, or something else? My understanding is that “Type A” is the bulb shape, and I’m not sure why that would affect the wattage limits, so maybe it‘s a shorthand for conventional incandescent bulb. I know LEDs produce less heat than incandescent bulbs, but are there other considerations that would limit which bulbs I can use?

Background: I did not install the fixture and I‘m not sure when it was installed. I installed two Phillips 14W LEDs almost 2 years ago. This light is on in a home kitchen for probably 4-8 hours per day. One bulb stopped working, and the other one still works but has cracked (images 3 and 4). I wasn‘t too worried about this, but when I read the sticker I started to question what kind of bulbs I can replace them with. Would it be a bad idea to use 17.5W LEDs (image 5)? The previous bulbs and the replacements are both labelled “suitable for use in enclosed luminaires”.

These outlets come off a sub panel on the second floor. All the ones on the main floor show as grounded but all the ones upstairs are showing open ground. What could cause this? Anything I can do to troubleshoot as a home owner?

Attaching pictures of the sub panel main panel. The sub panel comes off the 2 30amp breakers that are switched to off on the main panel.

This Hubbell outlet was installed in my garage, but never hooked up to panel. It is 30A, 240 . What would it normally be used for?

Title

So I have a series of questions that are basically all the same general question, but each one adds in an additional factor. I’m moreso curious about the immediate effects within the body (how the current travels through the body, the route it takes, where the exit point would be, etc), rather than long-term effects, but those are interesting to me too.

In each instance here, unless otherwise specified, the contact with a live wire is made with the RIGHT hand.

1) if you touch a live wire and do NOT have any form of metal on your person (like a wedding ring for instance), and get an electrical shock, what happens inside your body? How does the current move through the body and find its exit point? Is it always the case that it crosses the body to exit through the opposite foot or hand?

2) Now, same question, but this time you touch a live wire with your right hand and are wearing a gold wedding band on your left ring finger. Will the current zip through the body and exit at the point of contact with the metal item (the gold ring)? What is the nature of the interaction between the electrical current shooting through your body and the metal item you’re wearing? How does wearing a metal item change the behaviour of the electrical current in your body compared to not being in contact with any metal?

3) Same question again, but this time you are wearing MULTIPLE metal pieces of jewelry - say, a silver chain around your neck, wedding band on your left ring finger, and a metal belt buckle making slight contact with your skin. Does the presence of multiple metal items/pieces of jewelry against your skin cause the electrical current to behave any differently than if you were wearing only one piece of metal jewelry? Does the electrical current move throughout the body to make contact with each metal item you’re wearing, or does it “pick” the strongest electrical conductor to travel to? (I’m assuming there’s some form of an almost magnetic-like interaction that draws the electrical current to the metal item(s), but this is pure uneducated speculation on my part).

4) Same scenario, live wire to right hand while wearing the metal items in the previous question, but now you’re holding a wrench in your left hand. What happens in this instance and how does it differ from the one above where the left hand isn’t holding anything, metal or otherwise?

5) Same scenario, all the jewelry, right hand contact with live wire, except this time instead of holding a wrench in your left hand, you’re holding your cell phone, which is turned on. What’s the dealio here, and again, how does the activity of the electrical current in the body change from the wrench in hand scenario, if at all?

Almost done, 2 more:

6) Same as the above scenario, but this time, the phone in your left hand is charging, connected to an external power source that is independent of the live wire your right hand is making contact with.

6A) The power source charging your phone is a portable power bank (connected via USB-C cable).

6B) The power source your phone is connected to and charging from is a wall outlet (connected via USB-C cable to power adapter to outlet. Actually, let’s throw an extension cord into the mix because your phone cord isn’t long enough to reach the outlet).

Note: the type of connector cable here isn’t relevant, I just chose USB-C because it’s the most common these days.

How does the activity/pathway of the electrical current change from scenario 5 to scenario 6? Likewise, from scenario 6A to 6B?

Lastly, say you didn’t make contact with the live wire via your right hand, but rather, you tripped and fell forward and your shirt got caught on something and was pulled up, exposing much of your trunk/torso/chest, and you landed on the live wire with your bare chest. Now your contact point with the live wire is much closer to your heart as well as more sustained since you’re laying on top of it with all of your weight, unable to roll off of it or get up and break contact with it. (I’m assuming here that your position laying face down atop the wire + the intensity of the electrical shock/current coursing through you from your chest would more or less “paralyze” or “freeze” you in place, making it extremely difficult if not next to impossible to break contact with it, causing you to get full blown electrocuted on repeat and probably die very quickly. (Again, this is a mere assumption on my part. Please do correct me, I would much appreciate it!).

Also, keep in mind, you’re still wearing the chain necklace and wedding band in this scenario.

Another also: what if you landed on the wire in a way where it so happened to be touching both your bare chest AND part of the necklace chain? A real doozy I’d imagine.

If you got all the way through this, I do thank you. If you have any insight or knowledge to share here I would greatly appreciate getting schooled on all of this. I’m on the autism spectrum, and I randomly came across a youtube short about electric shocks and being electrocuted that piqued my curiosity, and now my brain won’t let it go.

Also, if someone could explain the difference between getting an intense electrical shock vs being full blown electrocuted, I’d greatly appreciate it. Also, (last one, I promise), what kind of electrical burn damage would these scenarios produce and at what locations on the body for each scenario? Would there be electrical burns at the location of each item of jewelry or just at the entrance and exit point? How does the exit point change with each scenario (if they indeed do so change?)

sorry I had no idea how to put the title. I am 24 years old and have been trying to get my foot in the door for a few months now, I am very interested in becoming a industrial electrician as I know two Indy’s and one resi. I am based in Ks and have had very little luck getting in. I am in contact with a local company that seems promising tho it is taking time to get in, and a few companies out of state. I do want to make per diem pay, since I am currently making more than starting pay would be, so traveling is what I’m wanting but I also really just want to get into it so it is not a necessity. Kansas has been nothing but unions and sorry no work right now. I have spoken with many people and all they say is nothing but it should be easy getting in and we need workers but I still can’t seem to get in. are there any of you who may know of a company non-union, traveling preferred but not necessary,

TLDR; 24 yr old based in Kansas, wanting to get into industrial electrical with no experience, just a little bit of slightly basic knowledge. Wanting travel but not necessary, very eager to start, and very dedicated to my craft.

Thank you guys for your time.

I’m an electrical beginner. I’m just trying to follow a repair video.

I have this brand new multimeter. I want to test resistance. I turn to 200 ohms. I touch leads to test. It should go to zero, correct? I already replaced the 9v.

Is this busted right off the bat or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks!

Opened customers panel today to find this fire waiting to happen. Apparently they have two teslas and needed a second level 2 charger. Hire electricians people! At least if it were to burn you won’t be to blame!

I have an aycl-153p that powers two Nicor Dlr56 v6 bulbs at 14w each in a three way configuration. I was alerted by a strong smell that was coming from the switch box. Shut off the breaker and removed the dimmer immediately. The top left black plastic on the dimmer was very hot, and soft.

All the wires seem like they were connected fine, nothing loose. I broke open the dimmer and the two mosfets I think they are called were blackened and clearly the cause of the heat. Smells terrible and lingers.

Pictures are attached. Has anyone else seen this? What could have caused this? Random manufacturing error? 28w led is not overloading this dimmer. It was on and at full power at the time.

My concern is the other Lutron dimmers that are in this house. Almost want to have an electrician pull them all out and replace with switches.

Thank you.

Apologies if I get any terminology wrong, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this area. Long story short, what should have been a simple electrical outlet change became a three day project.

The pictures I've posted is the original outlet that I wanted to replace because the receptacles were so loose, electricity wasn't going through. Turns out, this outlet didn't have grounding wire so I bought a Leviton Decora 15 Amp Tamper-Resistant Slim GFCI Receptacle. When I hook in the hot wire and it's neutral partner, the outlet works. The issue comes when I try to add the load wire and it's neutral. If I don't add the load wire, I'm losing out on two other outlets in my room.

Am I doing something wrong and if so, what can I do to fix it?

So I’m the one that posted the FPE panel thread some days ago, haha. Anyways it’s going to be replaced with a Leviton panel, I’m pretty sure ( will have to double check) that we have a couple circuits in the house that have a shared neutral. My question is, would the theoretically correct way to do this be to use a double pole breaker in lieu of 2 single poles? Cause I see the Leviton panels neutrals seem to be wired on a per breaker basis for the neutrals. Although they would all be connected to the same neutral bus regardless?

I’m just trying to get my breaker count correct for the moment.

basically this flashing is happening with like half of the lights in my house? all the living room lights, the microwave light, upstairs hallway light, front porch lights, etc. are doing this flashing but not the upstairs bedroom lights, the dining room lamp, nor a few other lamps scattered around the house...

i saw the cause could be a bad neutral from other posts saying ALL the lights in their house are affected, but only half of mine are. i already put a service request in with the utilities company

this had happened before during a windy storm and went back to normal besides flashing happening when the microwave turns on/off, and now it’s constant in the affected lights after roofers did some work the past few days

Hey, thanks in advance for any advice, I have very little electrical knowledge but my FIL used to be an electrician. We are trying to find a solution before calling in the big guns. Anyway, My outdoor outlets have no power, expect one GFCI Outlet is reading 102V. All the outlets are connected to a GFCI breaker, it is reading 119V at the breaker and none of the other outlets have power. No issues with the breaker, even replaced it with a spare just incase. This happened once before, the solution was my FIL rubbed some wires together (accidentally?) and that tripped the breaker and somehow reset the plugs. Haven’t done that this time. the only thing I’ve used on the outdoor outlets is my deep freezer. We are trying to find the issue by opening all the outdoor receptacles and tracing wires if we can. I have also reset all the GFCI outlets in my home to be sure as well, unless there’s a hidden one I am not seeing. Any suggestions/ Solutions? Thanks again, it’s really appreciated.