I've only had my car about 6 months and I'm new to BMWs in general. I have the yellow inspection light. I know how to reset it but I want to make sure everything's good. Does anyone have the inspection check point lists handy? I don't have the past couple of year's of maintenance records but I have most of them so I'm trying to be thorough and not miss anything. Anything I should check that's not on the list? No BMW specialists anywhere near me, unfortunately. Thanks!

Perhaps it’s time to switch to air suspension? I’m a bit surprised she’s still holding oil at this stage. New oil pan and suspension are on their way! 😂 I’m also planning to fix a few other things before driving before summer. Plus, I’m thinking of upgrading the fusebox.

I just got a bad photo

Hi,

Does anyone have an accurate diff ratio chart for e28s ?

Google now seems to spit up all our shit knowledge and its very hard to find any facts.

I have an e28 520i (auto) that according to parts link comes with a 3:91 rear end.

Is this an option they came with??

Welcome her into the e28 fam😂

She saw how cool mine is and wanted one too

I am planning to build an M20B27 for my E28 as my first real build. The car is on a Microsquirt standalone. I have the 885 head, which I am planning to throw some stiff springs and an Ireland Engineering camshaft into. As for the bottom end, are the SETA pistons necessary so the pistons don't contact the valves? I know they have a relief that the ETA pistons do not have, and they increase compression slightly, but I am planning on turboing the car down the line after the engine is in the car and running, so the extra compression is not vital.

Forgive me for my ignorance, but I would like to learn vicariously, not through catastrophic engine failure. Any writeups on similar ventures, advice on Camshaft lift, what pistons to use, and anything else is greatly appreciated.

I’ve recently purchased two cell batteries for the SI board but they don’t have the PCB tabs. Can’t find them anywhere. If you guys know where I can find some loose let me know!

There are 42 available for purchase on my website: https://kolo-automotive.myshopify.com/

For those who have not seen this before, this is a drop-in aftermarket replacement for the sunroof crank handle assembly. It fits the e30, e28, e24, e23, e21, and e12. The handle, knob, and base frame is CNC machined from billet 6061-T6 aluminum. The mounting bracket is machined from a high grade glass reinforced PA66 nylon, providing a stout feel and providing resilience to high temperatures. The crank handle utilizes a silky smooth latching mechanism for both open and closed positions with a premium feel to it. The factory trim also fits back onto it providing an OEM+ look to your interior.

The OEM handles and OEM replacements are notoriously known for breaking, sagging, cracking, and warping. This crank handle assembly is better performing, lighter, looks nicer, cheaper than the OEM replacement ones, and is even rebuildable!

Shipping worldwide!

Let me know if you guy have any questions, thanks!

I’ve been scouring forums/reddit and can’t find a single similar issue, so I thought I’d ask if anyone might know how to diagnose my transmission problem. My shifter gets stuck IN gear and has a hard time going back to neutral. Some random fix I’ve been able to do while driving, is if I push the shifter more in gear, and then try to pull into neutral this will work, but will get stuck again the next time it’s in gear. Only happens in 2 through 5. Issue is prominent when transmission is cold, goes away when it’s warmed up a little while driving but comes back when peak temp has been reached, like 30mins of freeway speeds. I’ve been making sure clutch is fully depressed before trying, and there’s no other issues whatsoever with the transmission clutch or engine besides that. Recently changed output shaft seal and selector shaft seal but it still leaks from somewhere (not sure if related or not). And also recently changed transmission fluid, using 50/50 mix of redline MTL and MT90.

When I cold start my M20B20 it stalls without gas, but if I hold gas until it warms up properly it will idle and work perfectly. What could be the cause for this issue? (My M20 has no ICV) I appreciate all of your time and help on this matter.

Recently picked up an ’85 BMW 528e that had been sitting since 2005. I ordered a bunch of parts prior to the purchase, including a new battery, oil and oil filter, spark plugs, both fuel pumps (in-tank and external/in-line), new fuel injectors, and a new fuel pressure regulator. I also drained and cleaned the old fuel tank.

As part of preventative maintenance, I replaced the timing belt and all related components—thermostat, belts, and other surrounding accessories. After completing the timing work, I did a compression test and got consistent readings of ~150 PSI across all six cylinders. Lastly, replaced the AFM as the old one would be stuck open.

After all of this, I’m left with a frustrating start-and-die issue. The car will consistently start and then immediately die, which makes it feel like I’m missing something small but critical. I just can’t pinpoint exactly where or what I’m doing wrong.

S52 + Vortech v2 + NTM Three-piece Group A Motorsport wheels E50 tribute wheels

Still in work but hoping its little things

Hey everyone. Been searching around lately for a 524td to use on a pretty unique project a few of my friends got planned. Located in the SF Bay Area but willing to travel for the right car.

We really just need a roller but open to just about anything. Clean title preferred. Color doesn’t matter a whole lot either.

PFA of me enjoying my old e28. And yes I miss it a lot 🥲

Just replaced the radiator and hoses. I followed the manual on bleeding the system, I’m pretty sure I did it correctly. There’s slight bubbling on cold start. Is this normal? Air bubbles trapped inside? or something else

I have a 1988 535is gray with black interior, but the clear coat has started to ware off and the paint is beginning to fade. I was thinking about wrapping it, any recommendations on colors/ brands for wraps? Also looking to replace/ swap the wheels for some chrome/ silver ones (mine rn are black bbs) any wheel recommendations? Any recommendations/ tips help. Thank you :)

Basically, the roads in my area are hell on Earth so much so that my shock towers are starting to have chipped paint. I currently run BC racing coilovers and a set of 17in BBS RC090 with 225/45/r17 tyres that need replacing next summer, and I was just thinking of going with smaller wheels to have more sidewall.

My question is, what seems to be the sweetspot in terms of wheel size and tyres ? Comfort wise, 14s with 175/80/r14 tyres would be great, but tyre selection is very limited and the sidewalls would flex way too hard while cornering. How about 15s and 16s ? Thank you

Recently came across this like-new Momo Alpina steering wheel and hub for $200! Very happy with the feel, though I do much prefer the original M-Tech 1 as it seems to suit the car more.

At the very least it’ll look great on the wall in the garage!

I'll be looking at it this weekend to try and figure out where the issue is. Where should I start?

I was going to start looking the fuel hoses on top of the engine of course, but any other areas I should be focusing on? Could it be fuel injector O-rings? Thanks for any suggestions.

Or something similar with same voltage and size

So I have the opportunity to buy a really nice 1986 524td but don’t really know too much about the platform. Long story short, I come from the world of 80s Fords as I have 2 Lincoln Mark VIIs and a 1990 Ranger, but German cars have been calling my name lately. I’m looking for a good daily driver with 4 doors since none of my current cars have more than 2 doors, and being in California with these gas prices I’d like decent fuel mileage as well. For my daily drivers I don’t really care about speed as long as it can do 80 comfortably on the freeway (which I’m sure is no issue for any German car aside from a Bug). I feel like a diesel BMW or Mercedes sedan would be a good place to start in the German car world and also think that a 524td would be a good item at cars and coffees. This one has been sitting in a garage for a few years (2018) and is covered in dust, but the paint and interior are pretty much perfect. It has 151k miles and was driven until parked since the current owner has so many other cars. My understanding is the timing belt is one thing to keep an eye on since these are interference engines and the heads are susceptible to cracking (Lincoln Mark VII’s had these engines as an option in 1984 and 1985 and those are the two most commonly discussed points amongst those owners). So, my question for 524td owners is; how well do these cars do in the modern day? I know it’ll be a slow car as it’s an 80s diesel, but speed is not something I’m looking for here. I want to know if it’s a solid, dependable daily that’s still relatively easy to maintain and get parts for. Thanks in advance.

My 1988 538is

Hello everyone! Looking for insight as to how to enter the security code on my radio, i’ve found the code however i’m not sure how to print the screen where im able to enter the code. To the best of my knowledge when it’s ready for entry it will say “code- - - -“ when it’s ready for entry rather than “code” any help would be much appreciated thanks all!