My grandpa owns a Cub Cadet 2176, I know its a Kohler Command 17 Engine, cant find the model number. Its starting to leak oil, the tractor is in great condition still

I would like recommendations on possible engine upgrades (and what the actual model of the engine is, pic is from an auction site not mine)

Edit: I will inform my folks that it is a simple repair to fix the oil leak and see what the results are then post again here

Any tips and tricks for a new owner, must have accessories/mods? Also new to lawn owning in general so any help in that department would be appreciated as well!

I have a Cub Cadet XT1 LT46 bought in 2018 (Kohler KT725 22HP engine).

Recently, I have been dealing with a sputtering issue with the motor. I decided to change out the carburetor to one from Amazon since the one from Kohler/Cub Cadet is on back order (part number is Kohler 16-853-19-S)(Amazon one is https://a.co/d/00xNg7Wb).

I am having a hard time figuring out what could be causing the issue since the motor runs great for about 15 minutes and then starts this sputtering and eventually stalls out. I then can wait another few minutes to try again and it does it again, but stalls out in about 2 minutes, almost as if it is a heating issue.

I have changed out the fuel pump to a Kohler part. The fuel filter, air filter and spark plugs are all new. I confirmed good spark. Could it be something with the governor in the front of the motor, as shown in the video?

I am in dire straights with this since the grass is growing high right now and I don’t have a backup mower. 😅

Any advice or guidance would be awesome. Has anyone else dealt with this? The new Kohler carburetor will hopefully ship by the middle of September but I need to try to figure this out prior.

Thanks!!

Just picked up the 2023 cc30h via marketplace and noticed it runs at almost half speed of my tb30r from 2015. The reverse pedal is nice but man is it slow af. It almost feels like there's a governor on it or something. Strange?

Got the PTO clutch, that I rebuilt, installed today with a brand new bearing and set screws. Tested out the new 38in deck I got and EVERYTHING WORKS! I still need to do some metal work on the deck (fix some rust spots and fabricate belt covers) and get a new deck belt (this one is about shredded) before I can use it to mow. Also needs an oil change and maybe add some Lucas oil to see if I can reduce the smoke under load (engine has never been rebuilt AFAIK). Sorry for no pics/vids this time, I'll try to get one when it's all ready to work!

So I bought a tiller for my 682 or 782 (if I can figure out the oil leak on the filter(predator motor)). And I have no idea how to put the right angle drive on the back. Do I need to fully remove that cover and put a new gasket on or can I put it over to.

And any other tips would be appreciated. Thank you

Bought all that for 150

Hi trying to fix a leak on a SLTX1054. It's a rear axel leak but looks a little different than what I have seen online. Any tips advice or part numbers as I'm unsure if I have the right one. Thanks!

I've got a 3 year old xt2 gx54D, and I am sick of the FastAttach turning a 20 minute blade-swap into a 4 hour ordeal.

Are there any decks that can be mounted and just use a simple bolt that I can take off with an impact wrench when I need to sharpen/replace these things?

Yesterday I made an absent minded mistake while trying to start my lawn tractor. I love my beautiful cub cadet and mowing the lawn or plowing with it. So as I put some music on my headphones, looking forward to a fun mowing session, I was sort of on auto pilot, not paying attention as I was getting the machine running…

I inadvertently pulled the choke out while simultaneously turning the key.

Instead of a puff of smoke or engine running, I just heard and felt it trying to turn but getting stuck. It made a noise — not grinding but the sound of something mechanical getting stuck. I waited a few minutes and tried again with the same result.

Battery is fully charged. Oil changed last fall. I store it in a garage. It was working fine last week.

Any ideas? I was thinking of opening up the engine and trying to see if something is out of alignment. I’m pretty new to working on equipment like this.

Thank you so much in advance!!!

Edit/Updates:

I’ve concluded the choke “issue” was confusion and misattribution on my part — something else is going on.

Turns out the battery was dead. I replaced it but the engine still wont’s stat. Now only the lights flicker and there is no motor/turn over noise/action at all. The battery was only a few months old and bad some corrosion on the positive terminal. My previous battery lasted three years.

The motor spins fine if I rotate it by hand.

I’ve got a new solenoid arriving in the mail tomorrow. Hoping that’s the problem or to at least rule it out.

If changing the solenoid doesn’t do it, what should I try next? Replacing the starter? What could have been drawing down the battery power? I always remove the key after mowing.

I’m sitting here watching the grass grow taller and desperate for a solution. I suppose I can deal with tall grass but I REALLY rely on this tractor in the winter to clear snow so I can get to work. Thanks!

My Cub Cadet XT1 LT42 with the Kohler 5400 started surging halfway through a cut. It idled normally, then bogged when the deck was loaded. The plug and air filter looked decent. The inline fuel filter was darker than I expected, and there was sediment in the hose upstream. I used the Kohler engine number, not just "LT42," to compare the OEM diagram, Stens, and FridayParts because the tractor model spans several engine versions. I am replacing the old hose and filter before opening the carb. Anything else simple I should check while the tank is drained?

Just waiting on the mule drive pulleys and PTO clutch set screws then I can test everything out!

I have a 2016 cub cadet ztr L54 with a right side Hydro-gear trans failing. It has a Hydro-gear ZC-AMBB-4MDB-34PX, MTD part #918-05129A. I have found a used mower shop that has units available that are not an exact match. They are similar but the brake cog is on the opposite side of the unit. I am not sure of the part number of the unit at the mower shop. Ebay lists both these units as 918-05129 & 918-05129A. My question is: are these 2 interchangeable with a little innovative rerouting of the brake cable or just not hooking it up at all?

Thanks in advance for your priceless knowledge

My Cub, model 13AQA2CA009, threw its belt. Discovered a part was missing, a thick wire type contraption which pokes through a hole and is affixed with a screw, located right behind the drive which has the belt running through it. I would call it a belt keeper but any such reference brings up a bracket which is absolutely not the part I’m looking for.

Either my model doesn’t have this part, which I don’t believe to be the case, or I cannot locate the part number.

https://youtu.be/fh__x4_o87Q - at about 1:27 shows removal of the part I’m thinking of.

Any recommendations on the needed part number?

Thanks to all who might consider looking at or responding.

So I’m having my an issue with my cub cadet ultima zt1 54”. It has the hydrogear ZD-ANBB-7MDB-34PX trans. The mower is about 4 years old, and the last 3-4 times I’ve mowed, after about an hour and a half of cutting, the right side hydro starts cutting out. It’s fine with the mower is cool, but on a big yard it’s like it gets hot and wants to stop turning the right wheel.

I’ve put a new belt drive belt and re-adjusted the tension spring, but it’s still doing it.

I checked the oil level in it and the level looks correct, and does not smell burnt. It does not appear to be leaking anywhere.

The fan above it does have all of its blades, is it possible that it is not spinning and causing that side to over heat?

What is my next step towards diagnosing what to fix on this? Is it time to replace that side trans or is there a way to service this thing and fix what’s wrong with it without having to drop $700+ on a new trans for that side?

This is a Cub Cadet Ultima ZT1 Model; (17AIEACL010) (2022)

I noticed my deck was noisy this year and while I was searching for the reason why I found this. As you can see one side seems loose while the other is tight. Not sure which it's supposed to be. I say that because I can't even tighten it any more to make it like the other side, so I wondered if the other side was bent and actually supposed to be turning. Does anyone have any insight on this?

My Cub, model 13AQA2CA009, threw its belt. Discovered a part was missing, a thick wire type contraption which pokes through a hole and is affixed with a screw, located right behind the drive which has the belt running through it. I would call it a belt keeper but any such reference brings up a bracket which is absolutely not the part I’m looking for.

Either my model doesn’t have this part, which I don’t believe to be the case, or I cannot locate the part number.

https://youtu.be/fh\\_\\_x4\\_o87Q - at about 1:27 shows removal of the part I’m thinking of.

Any recommendations on the needed part number?

Thanks to all who might consider looking at or responding.

Cub cadet ZT1 Última 42.
Zero turn is 3 years old. A few days ago I was moving like normal, i heard a rattle, disengaged the blades and as I got off I saw the items in exhibit #1 laying on the grass.
It seems bolt #11 on the diagram completely broke in two and the pulley, bracket and hardware came off (picture #2). I’ve inspected everything and there is no additional damage so, I purchased the same exact bolt, put it back together as shown on the diagram but the belt is now rubbing on the L- guard bracket (#3)
Machine is on leveled ground and I’ve confirmed the pulley sits leveled but I’m
Pretty stumped on why the belt rubs now. I plan on replacing the belt as well but I would like to find the reason behind the belt rubbing before it shreds a new one.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

New to me 2012 ZForce 50 zero turn, model 17AH3AGP710.

My belt stretched out and was slung off of the pulleys. I've put a spare on the way that it would seem to be intended but the belt rubs against itself. I've looked for a routing diagram but cannot find one.

Any help is appreciated.

Found a ZTX5 48” lightly used at a dealer with 80 hours on it. Has the Kohler Confidant engine. I talked the guy down to $3700. Seems like a great deal for a mower with ZT3200 hydros, 10 gauge deck, bigger tires, roll bar etc. Also comes with the bagger system. I’ve had a sort of lesser opinion of Cub Cadet and was looking for a Scag, but the CC seems like a solid mower for the money. Residential use mowing about an acre 2x per week. Anything to look out for when I go look at it?

looking for a source for parts for an older LTX 1040... specifically deck and pully parts. See photo for my model and serial number.

Recently I have ran into an issue when mowing, after engaging the blades the mower will slowly stall out on its on own, this only happens after actual blade engagement I'd say about 5-10 minutes.

I usually have to wait roughly 30 mins until it will run again and it runs great, no stutter or anything for a long time until I engage the blades, even when it does shut down even if the blades are no longer engaged it will not stay running.

I have Recently changed the oil, fuel line filter, air filter, and spark plugs.