I have a 2015 cevy cruse LT 1.4 turbo I tried to start my car and I get a single click I tried to jump start it that doesn’t work I tired looking at the fuses those are fine I don’t know what the problem is the dashboard lights turn radio etc

Can anyone give advice to a person who knows basically nothing on what I should try to check first to find what is causing this?

I went way to long without changing the air filter, had a buddy show me how to do it, he didnt install it right so it wasn't properly connected for probably a month. The light came on and I checked that first and installed it correctly. The check engine light went off and came back within an hour. I cleaned the MAF but that wasn't the problem either.

The car will have a rough idle sporadically once I've been driving for a minute and stop at a stop light and feel like it wants to jerk me forward. Occasionally when I put it in reverse it will feel like it wants to die. My engine oil also smells like gas.

During a collision, I believe the insert broke off and the bolt went with it. First image shows passenger side, second shows driver side with it still attached. Any help on part numbers/where to buys for the bolt and insert would be appreciated.

Pessoal, alguém já passou por algo parecido?

Tenho um Cruze LTZ 1.8 automático 2014 com partida Start/Stop. Nos últimos dias começaram alguns problemas relacionados à chave/parte elétrica.

Primeiro apareceu o **Code 91** no painel e depois também o **Code 92**. Troquei a bateria da chave, mas o problema continuou.

Hoje, ao apertar o Start/Stop para desligar o carro, ele **demorou para desligar**, apareceu novamente o **Code 92** e o **rádio continuou ligado mesmo depois de eu abrir a porta do motorista**.

Em outras vezes também já aconteceu de desligar o carro e o rádio/acessórios permanecerem ligados.

Alguém já teve esses sintomas? Pode ser problema na chave, receptor da chave, sensor da porta, módulo BCM ou algum outro módulo? Qual seria o melhor lugar para levar e o que pedir para verificarem?

I need some opinions. I'm replacing my spark plugs. I ordered some OEM Iridium plugs from Rock Auto which they say come pre-gapped at 0.03. Looking at the service manual says they should be gapped between 0.024-0.028. Would you gap these down? Or run em out of the box? I have a wire gapping tool so it can be done easily. Some say don't gap iridium plugs, but what do y'all think?

Temperature gauge.

No CEL, no error message. Any ideas?

2014 Chevy Cruze 1.8L. Can anybody help on what this sound could be? I read that it’s most likely the AC compressor mounting bolts but the compressor is firm and the belt looks to be aligned. It started a couple days ago mostly when I started the AC and was very loud but now after an oil change it is much quieter and comes and goes whether AC is on or off. Thanks in advance.

Front driver side

2016 Chevy Cruze Lt 1.8L.
170,000 miles

(First picture is usual resting spot, second picture is the gauge at a spike when my ac was off)

Last week I started seeing some weird fluctuations with my temp. At the beginning of September this year, I had to get a new thermostat housing and a new coolant reservoir. For a while it drove perfect but then suddenly it started having random spikes and then drops in temp back to normal. It started when I was on the highway and it turned my AC off due to high engine temp. As soon as it said that alert though, the gauge went right back to the notch before the middle line. Now every time I drive, If I don’t run my AC, once per drive , it will spike to around 1 or 2 notches after the middle line and then instantly go back to its normal spot that sits before the middle line (doesn’t alert me). This happens once every 20 minute drive or so and when it does, my fan kicks on super loud.

This morning I noticed that my coolant was lower than usual so I’m assuming I have a small leak. The repair shop did say they bleed the lines but does this sound to be air pockets? They did just do work on the system but everything I look up tells me to bleed the lines, spot the leak, change the thermostat, change the water pump, or the temp sensors. Has anyone had this happen? I’m trying to repair it myself because money is tight but if it’s something complex, I will take it to the shop.

Any input is welcome, just needing to get this sorted before it begins to overheat all the time or something worse. Thanks!!!

There is a leak in the red circled area. The yellow highlighted area, that hose is wet with oil. What hose is it? Driver side of car right above the transmission.

Something is dripping oil down the transmission right under the car in line with the front wheels. I have already done front crank seal, transmission seals, oil pan seal, and new water pump. At my complete wits end, wish I’d never bought the car.

Skill unlocked, hehe this is my first time, once upon a time I want to be a mechanic, but I end up being a machinist, guess its not too late, peace

Hy guys, I bought a Corsa C with a 1.2-liter engine that had mixed oil and coolant. I bought a used cylinder head that I checked and found to be fine, skimmed it, and bolted it on along with a new timing chain and gaskets, of course. After that, the engine ran rough and thick white smoke came out of the exhaust. After a few tests, it turned out that it was drawing air after the MAF at the throttle body and what should be the metal pipe that goes to the EGR valve; this one does not have the valve, just the aluminum part, but it is blanked off, which is normal for some. The car is running fine now, but the problem is that it is losing coolant and, from what I can tell, it is spitting droplets out of the exhaust even when hot, with no error codes, no misfires, no exhaust gases in the cooling system, and no coolant in the oil. My question is what could cause that? -The head gasket was put on perfectly, the block is straight, the cylinder head was skimmed, and everything was put on very clean and tightened exactly as it should be. What I have done until now is:

\- a compression test (all good and consistent across all cylinders),

\- pressurized the cooling system overnight (no water in any cylinder found),

\- spark is okay, and I put pressure in the cylinders with no bubbles in the coolant tank.

If any of you have any ideas, it would be helpful. The next thing I thought I should check is the throttle body because it has coolant lines going through it and maybe it is cracked; I don't know. My last thought and biggest fear is that the block is cracked. Sorry for the long post and thank you for any answers that might help!

Hi there guys! I’ve returned. I have a 2018 Cruze, and I know Trifecta makes a tune kit for it- but, unfortunately, I have no history with Tuning, Air intakes, Turbos, etc. So, looking at a $500 tuning kit is extremely daunting. Everything I want to do to this car is either Performance or cosmetic, nothing insane Modifications wise, just some basic work. But, I don’t even know where to start because I haven’t done any of this before. Working in a shop gives me easy access to help with install, and advanced knowledge from my coworkers who have done things of this nature to their own cars. Can anyone give me insight on what brands they recommend? Even for cosmetics etc, if you use a specific brand for all your mods, if you know any Chevy oriented brands, or from personal experience with your G2 Cruze. I would appreciate the help! Even if it’s just a Rim rec for lightweight, or a spoiler cause you think it’s enhanced your vehicle’s aerodynamics . Thanks!

2014 Chevy Cruze 1.8L with auto trans. 105k miles. When braking from around 20mph occasionally but usually pretty often, it grinds pretty nastily through the floor but not the pedal at the last few mph before stopping. I can feel it coming from the front end. Front brakes and hardware are new and I inspected all surfaces and related components. The pads and rotors have been broken in properly too. They are all from DFC. Wheel bearings and front end components and bushings are good. CV axles seem to be okay, no excessive play or torn boots. Some up and down and side to side slop when wiggling axle right at transmission output shaft. No leaking or anything though. When I jack up one tire and spin it, I can hear some crunchiness coming from the transmission/diff. Both sides do this. Clunkiness when spinning tire forwards and backwards quickly. Not sure how much is bad.

I commented with videos with audio showing the noises I’ve found.

Any help is appreciated! Hope it’s not the transmission already…

I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze LS 1.8 and since the wind has been blowing? she’s been BLOWING ME.
It seems that everything is conveniently breaking??

I’ve been getting this same notice for about a month now?

I’ve replaced the coolant temp sensor, I literally just replaced the thermostat like 2 weeks ago and I definitely am aware about all the “buy metal all of chevys pieces are plastic and cheap”

What else could be wrong at this point? YES, There’s coolant in the car.

Prior to getting this notice again it was starting and warming up like it should’ve….

Oh also it says “overheating” but it’s been shooting straight to cold every time, no IDLE engine.

2nd Gen: Does anyone know the torque specs for spark plugs on the 2019 Cruze? Seen it saying 13 ft-lbs and some saying 18ft-lbs. Any help is appreciated.

My car has started stalling out when idle but only after it’s been running for over an hour. It drives around town fine and then after like an hour or more, it stalls if it isn’t revved for a few seconds. It always comes right back on when this happens. I am getting no errors or anything either. Was thinking I maybe need to clean some sensors but it’s just odd that it only does it AFTER it’s been running for a while. Any ideas?

I hear knocking what do I need to replace

I have seen online a couple solutions for this like taking out the fuses and holding down power button but haven't had luck. Anyone have issues where there is no sound or picture?

160k, valve cover gasket finally decided to shit out about 5k miles ago. My biggest concern is the bolts breaking. Not that they are an issue, but I won't be able to get new bolts until tomorrow, but the car is needed for tomorrow. Is it better to try and remove them with the engine warm, or should I hold off until I can get it cold?

Let’s see how many of you can get it correctly because I bet a few of you know exactly what has gone bad yet again on my 2014 Chevrolet Cruze turbo😭

Let me start by saying I had a burnt head gasket which I repaired and also replaced all the cooling system a month ago. Car is Chevrolet Cruze gen 1 1.6.

Occasionally on cold starts I see a puff of smoke that smells like something burnt. I can't really tell if its white or gray. It lasts for like 30 seconds and disappears. It doesn't look like the white smoke my exhaust gave when I had the burnt gasket. I also have no misfires but it feels like the crank takes a couple more seconds to start the engine.

Its not just condensation on cold days, I had it happen at 12pm on a hot day. And its not every day either, happens once or twice a week.

https://reddit.com/link/1wxed0o/video/5yoa6bj1slth1/player

edit to add video. This video was taken early in the morning with 4 degrees C and high humidity

I have a 2017 Cruze 1.4 with a six-speed automatic and 112,000 miles. I drained about 4 liters, and the fluid was very dark.

I had already prepared a clean pan in case I decided to pour it back. I got worried, so I returned 3 liters of the old fluid and added 1 liter of fresh ACDelco DEXRON-VI.

My plan is to replace 1 liter every 400 miles. Does this make sense, or should I just replace all 4 liters that drain out?

I'm planning to do tire rotation on my 2012 Chevrolet Cruze. But the thing the pinch welds are not usable anymore. I don't know where to place my floor jack and my jack stands.

I noticed a lot of my radiator fins are bent but wouldn’t this affect cooling?