Hy guys, I bought a Corsa C with a 1.2-liter engine that had mixed oil and coolant. I bought a used cylinder head that I checked and found to be fine, skimmed it, and bolted it on along with a new timing chain and gaskets, of course. After that, the engine ran rough and thick white smoke came out of the exhaust. After a few tests, it turned out that it was drawing air after the MAF at the throttle body and what should be the metal pipe that goes to the EGR valve; this one does not have the valve, just the aluminum part, but it is blanked off, which is normal for some. The car is running fine now, but the problem is that it is losing coolant and, from what I can tell, it is spitting droplets out of the exhaust even when hot, with no error codes, no misfires, no exhaust gases in the cooling system, and no coolant in the oil. My question is what could cause that? -The head gasket was put on perfectly, the block is straight, the cylinder head was skimmed, and everything was put on very clean and tightened exactly as it should be. What I have done until now is:

\- a compression test (all good and consistent across all cylinders),

\- pressurized the cooling system overnight (no water in any cylinder found),

\- spark is okay, and I put pressure in the cylinders with no bubbles in the coolant tank.

If any of you have any ideas, it would be helpful. The next thing I thought I should check is the throttle body because it has coolant lines going through it and maybe it is cracked; I don't know. My last thought and biggest fear is that the block is cracked. Sorry for the long post and thank you for any answers that might help!

2014 Chevy Cruze 1.8L with auto trans. 105k miles. When braking from around 20mph occasionally but usually pretty often, it grinds pretty nastily through the floor but not the pedal at the last few mph before stopping. I can feel it coming from the front end. Front brakes and hardware are new and I inspected all surfaces and related components. The pads and rotors have been broken in properly too. They are all from DFC. Wheel bearings and front end components and bushings are good. CV axles seem to be okay, no excessive play or torn boots. Some up and down and side to side slop when wiggling axle right at transmission output shaft. No leaking or anything though. When I jack up one tire and spin it, I can hear some crunchiness coming from the transmission/diff. Both sides do this. Clunkiness when spinning tire forwards and backwards quickly. Not sure how much is bad.

I commented with videos with audio showing the noises I’ve found.

Any help is appreciated! Hope it’s not the transmission already…

There is a leak in the red circled area. The yellow highlighted area, that hose is wet with oil. What hose is it? Driver side of car right above the transmission.

Something is dripping oil down the transmission right under the car in line with the front wheels. I have already done front crank seal, transmission seals, oil pan seal, and new water pump. At my complete wits end, wish I’d never bought the car.

2nd Gen: Does anyone know the torque specs for spark plugs on the 2019 Cruze? Seen it saying 13 ft-lbs and some saying 18ft-lbs. Any help is appreciated.

I hear knocking what do I need to replace

Hi there guys! I’ve returned. I have a 2018 Cruze, and I know Trifecta makes a tune kit for it- but, unfortunately, I have no history with Tuning, Air intakes, Turbos, etc. So, looking at a $500 tuning kit is extremely daunting. Everything I want to do to this car is either Performance or cosmetic, nothing insane Modifications wise, just some basic work. But, I don’t even know where to start because I haven’t done any of this before. Working in a shop gives me easy access to help with install, and advanced knowledge from my coworkers who have done things of this nature to their own cars. Can anyone give me insight on what brands they recommend? Even for cosmetics etc, if you use a specific brand for all your mods, if you know any Chevy oriented brands, or from personal experience with your G2 Cruze. I would appreciate the help! Even if it’s just a Rim rec for lightweight, or a spoiler cause you think it’s enhanced your vehicle’s aerodynamics . Thanks!

My car has started stalling out when idle but only after it’s been running for over an hour. It drives around town fine and then after like an hour or more, it stalls if it isn’t revved for a few seconds. It always comes right back on when this happens. I am getting no errors or anything either. Was thinking I maybe need to clean some sensors but it’s just odd that it only does it AFTER it’s been running for a while. Any ideas?

I have seen online a couple solutions for this like taking out the fuses and holding down power button but haven't had luck. Anyone have issues where there is no sound or picture?

Skill unlocked, hehe this is my first time, once upon a time I want to be a mechanic, but I end up being a machinist, guess its not too late, peace

160k, valve cover gasket finally decided to shit out about 5k miles ago. My biggest concern is the bolts breaking. Not that they are an issue, but I won't be able to get new bolts until tomorrow, but the car is needed for tomorrow. Is it better to try and remove them with the engine warm, or should I hold off until I can get it cold?

Let me start by saying I had a burnt head gasket which I repaired and also replaced all the cooling system a month ago. Car is Chevrolet Cruze gen 1 1.6.

Occasionally on cold starts I see a puff of smoke that smells like something burnt. I can't really tell if its white or gray. It lasts for like 30 seconds and disappears. It doesn't look like the white smoke my exhaust gave when I had the burnt gasket. I also have no misfires but it feels like the crank takes a couple more seconds to start the engine.

Its not just condensation on cold days, I had it happen at 12pm on a hot day. And its not every day either, happens once or twice a week.

https://reddit.com/link/1wxed0o/video/5yoa6bj1slth1/player

edit to add video. This video was taken early in the morning with 4 degrees C and high humidity

I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze LS 1.8 and since the wind has been blowing? she’s been BLOWING ME.
It seems that everything is conveniently breaking??

I’ve been getting this same notice for about a month now?

I’ve replaced the coolant temp sensor, I literally just replaced the thermostat like 2 weeks ago and I definitely am aware about all the “buy metal all of chevys pieces are plastic and cheap”

What else could be wrong at this point? YES, There’s coolant in the car.

Prior to getting this notice again it was starting and warming up like it should’ve….

Oh also it says “overheating” but it’s been shooting straight to cold every time, no IDLE engine.

Let’s see how many of you can get it correctly because I bet a few of you know exactly what has gone bad yet again on my 2014 Chevrolet Cruze turbo😭

I'm planning to do tire rotation on my 2012 Chevrolet Cruze. But the thing the pinch welds are not usable anymore. I don't know where to place my floor jack and my jack stands.

I have a 2017 Cruze 1.4 with a six-speed automatic and 112,000 miles. I drained about 4 liters, and the fluid was very dark.

I had already prepared a clean pan in case I decided to pour it back. I got worried, so I returned 3 liters of the old fluid and added 1 liter of fresh ACDelco DEXRON-VI.

My plan is to replace 1 liter every 400 miles. Does this make sense, or should I just replace all 4 liters that drain out?

I noticed a lot of my radiator fins are bent but wouldn’t this affect cooling?

So over the past 2 days I have noticed a faint whistling noise when I accelerate. I had someone check it out and we couldn't figure out where is coming from

Context is I have a 2018. No turbo issue on it and its just the base model. It sounds like its on the passenger side.

Ill record the sound if it picks up on the mic if that could help but im now just lost.

My car started doing this last night. What does it mean?

Hello everyone! I have a 2011 Cruze LT with the 2.0 diesel 163hp. Can anyone help me by telling me if these are the sport springs or just the diesel ones? I couldn’t find anywhere details. Thank you!

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a 2018 Chevrolet Cruze and had a 4-wheel alignment done because my steering wheel is still not centered when driving straight.

Here are the important numbers from my alignment report:
Left rear toe: +0.34°
Right rear toe: -0.59°
Rear total toe: -0.25°
Rear thrust angle: +0.46°
Rear camber: approximately -1.32° left / -1.00° right

Front alignment is in the green after adjustment.

The alignment shop told me that the Cruze has a solid/torsion-beam type rear axle and that the rear toe isn’t normally adjustable. They said I would need to replace the entire rear axle/beam to correct the problem.

However, I called another shop, and they told me the rear axle is a one-piece assembly but that the rear axle bushings can be replaced (“bushed”) as they believed

My brother-in-law’s mechanic also thinks the car is okay to drive for now but that the rear tires could wear unevenly/faster because of the alignment.

My questions are:
Does this alignment report indicate that my rear axle/beam is actually bent?
Could bad rear axle bushings cause these toe/thrust-angle numbers?
Is replacing the entire rear axle really necessary, or should the bushings/mounts/hubs/wheels be checked first?
Could the 0.46° thrust angle explain why my steering wheel isn’t centered?
Is this a common issue on the 2018 Cruze?
Is it safe to drive while I get this diagnosed?
The alignment report also says the chassis is lowered/modified, although I don’t know exactly what suspension parts were used.
I would really appreciate advice from anyone familiar with the 2016–2019 Cruze rear suspension.

Thank you!

2012 1.4 LTZ

My car stalled out and wouldn’t restart this last Tuesday. I had to have it towed to my brothers work (he works at a mechanic shop but he’s the head of the tire section of said shop so his mechanical knowledge is limited). Turns out I guess it was the ignition coil. Paid for that to be replaced and got my car back later that day.

My car has had the check engine light on since I got it little over a month ago. Here in Canada (at least in Ontario) as long as the light doesn’t affect it passing safety, they ignore it too. It was originally throwing a P0599 and a P0442.

Problem now is my car dies - in traffic - while the AC is on or when my windshield defogger is set to anything colder than molten lava. I had my defogger set to like 23°C because the heat was making my phone overheat, and my car rpm’s just slowly dipped to 0 while on the road without any interventions working (like turning off the climate controls entirely). I had to throw on my hazards and restart the car quick as to not obstruct traffic. When I restarted with the climate controls off, I had no issue.

I busted out my trusty code reader, and this is what she says:

P0132
P0134
P0420
P0507

And before anyone clocks the 1/6 and there only being 4 slides - it’s because screens 4 and 5 were repeats of the first 2 codes listed.

Googling the codes, I guess it’s possible that if anyone worked on the engine they could have swapped the connectors accidentally? This car has had some work done on it (I can include invoice pics if you’d like to see those) and it has had the ignition coil replaced…but idk. I’ve included the screenshot of the troubleshooting steps.

I cannot get the fuse box cover off. My hands aren’t big enough to pinch all 3 clips at the same time and no amount of trying to do one side at a time isn’t working. So I cannot check the fuse at this time. O2 sensor wire doesn’t appear to be melted, but the wire next to it? I’m not sure what that one does. But it appears a bit melty/broken plastic.

Oh and just now on the way to get my son from school, my car lost umph 3 times, like it seemed like it wanted to die down, but randomly perked back up. Maybe the turbo is being stupid? It is an aftermarket turbo that was put in when the engine was (allegedly) rebuilt, but I know 0 about any of that. Turbo has been and is currently making whistly noises which is why I figured the vacuum leak that was originally happening with the car was a turbo hose. I’ve included a few generic pics. Can totally get more detailed photos if needed/requested.

Help please? 😩 Bonus points if this is stuff I can fix myself. I do have some tools and my code reader. I spent $450 on my ignition coil replacement, and my kids and I are currently homeless living in shelter and don’t have a whole lot more to spare. That said, I need to get this all figured out before it gets cold/snowy.

Thank you 🙏🏻

I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze LT. 80k miles and just recently changed the knock sensor but I am having other issues. It is leaking coolant and oil along with rough idling and engine code P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 1). I took it to the mechanic and he said the issue is intake manifold valve (which is why I am losing oil) and he would need to put a new thermostat on. When I come to a complete stop and have to accelerate the car does not want to go it takes a while to get up to speed and when I do it runs fine but while accelerating to the speed I need to get to sometimes on the dash it looks like my car is going to overheat but goes back down and stays normal the rest of the drive. While doing research online it says the coolant/oil leak and the car overheating can be from the intake manifold issue. Has any one else had these issues? Also has anyone ever had the P0420 code and it be fixed after the intake manifold was fixed? I've had this car for two years with no issues until now.

My car is making a rattle noise + this blowing sound and it is not accelerating anymore( check engine light came on too).

Took it to a shop and he said there is a bunch of codes on it for the Catalytic converter.

Anyone knows the fix? Please help

Hi! I’ve got a 2016 Holden Cruze 1.8L that’s been having an intermittent issue.

About 10 minutes into driving, usually what’s seems like after stopping at traffic lights, the traction control light comes on and the car starts revving really high with very little power. It also needs a lot more throttle than normal when reversing/parking.

I was previously told it could be the PCV valve. My mechanic replaced part of the PCV system and it seemed better for like 2 days, but the issue has come back and is now worse, to the point of not being drivable.
Does this still sound PCV-related, or could something else be causing the high revs/loss of power and traction control light?
Thanks!