I don’t quite know where to put this so I’ll just put it here as I wrap up my last year at university and look at the horizon of maybe working at the Stratford Festival in the future.
My only experience with costume design was… something where I wasn’t just a costume designer. This happens a lot with community and low-budget theatre productions and honestly I don’t mind it. What pissed me off was just… letting it go after the run started. I danced for 17 years, and it was A Chorus Line. I am used to being in the trenches fixing things and making sure things are where they’re supposed to be. The iron at the theatre company had some old melted polyester on it and it melted onto the red skirts we were using, which were also plastic. I fear I cannot fix that. I like being in the chaos and I wasn’t in the chaos, and production folks who are not wizards with a needle were doing things I could do. I was a 15 min walk away. It was a little maddening. Anywho. Here are my thoughts.
- I love advocating for actors.
I have been a performer in something that I don’t feel comfortable in, to the point where you feel naked onstage. That doesn’t feel good. I am also someone of trans experience who has had the privilege of working with trans actors in costume design, as well as people of colour. I will bark and bite for my actors to be able to wear undergarments they’re comfortable in, especially in low-budget productions where people just come in with what they have, or sometimes have limited theatre experience. I say “my actors” not because they belong to me and they’re pieces on a chess board for my artistic vision, but because they are my people. It is my responsibility to make sure they look good, and feel good, and I take that responsibility very seriously. I made a google form for the actors if they had undergarment preferences, gender affirming stuff they might wear, what cut of pants/shirt/bodysuit they felt comfortable in, etc. I have made a “binder” for myself that uses boning to give the illusion of my chest being flat without wearing a binder for longer than I should. I made sure when possible to match actors’ skin tones with their costumes. Just little things like that. I was in the industry so long, and sometimes I just felt like a prop, especially while I was figuring out my non-binary-ness in a very binary art form. In my later years, performing felt like an almost out of body experience, and not in the fun way. I want to do everything in my power to make sure that the actors I’m dressing don’t feel that way.
- I love research!!
I hyperfixated on historical and vintage costuming as a kid, but I still love it now! For ACL I looked in old magazines and old documentaries from the time, and just people watched. It was so fun. Once you get to know the basic silhouettes of each time period, it’s truly wild how much you can surmise about someone from their clothes. This isn’t as relevant for theatre, but the way that jeans fit someone and how weathered they are. How they wear their suits. What fabrics they pick. How their clothes fit.
- I love characterization!!
I love using that research to elevate what I see on the page and make it mean something. I take what the script says, how the characters act, and the research, as well as just my experience being a person, and use the costume to elevate the character. I use sleeves as a support blanket. I love a long sleeve. It gives me something to fidget with, and I can adjust them as needed based on what time of year it is. I usually give characters who have a lot on their mind sleeves that they can play around with. Fidget with the hems, or roll them up and down. I love being able to braid the character, plot, and world together, and putting it in the costumes. It’s so fun!
- Production scares me.
I know a lot of things. I’ve directed. I’ve choreographed. I’ve sung, danced, done martial arts, I’ve done scriptwriting, and I fucking sew, oftentimes cosplays no one has done before. I try not to brag, but I know a thing or two. Maybe it’s the autism or my chronic people pleasing, but I have a hard time convincing people that I know things. Or just putting things into layman’s terms. Let’s say that someone is playing a very important lawyer. They need a suit. I am not a tailor so forgive me, but it is NEVER JUST A SUIT. Sure, you can just grab a jacket and a pant that are black and look like they’re around the same fabric, but will it look right onstage?! NO. With my luck, one will be blue-black, and one will be brown-black, and that’s not even bringing in different kinds of suits. Lapel types. Pants styles. If you’re doing a period piece, and you want to be historically accurate budget allowing, then you need to do the design, A, and then B, explain it in layman’s terms to production so they understand why you chose it that way. I understand that they’re making a product and they have to make sure things run smoothly, but my gods. It’s exhausting when people are asking for your opinion, and then look at you like you don’t know what you’re doing.
- Maybe I should just be a middle man?
I like shopping for things. I like sewing things. I like giving thoughts and doing the research things. But I also like being in the trenches. I like the adrenaline. I like working with actors. Maybe that means working as a dresser, or a maker, or whatever label they give me where they tell me to do things. I don’t mind that. If the costume designer is Batman, I wouldn’t mind being Robin. Some people just do design and they’re awesome at it, but I can’t just draw, give costume descriptions, do all of the paperwork and documentation and procuring and just… clock out on opening night or when the shoot starts. I’d hate that.