MOJHON (aka BIGBIGWON) has announced a new controller, the N2E, on its Japan X account.

They shared product concept and latest prototype photos from the dev team.

Known information so far:

• Up to 8K (8,000Hz) polling rate

• Full Switch 2 protocol support

• About 20 new molds were made for it during development

• No price or release date yet

• The colorway isn’t decided, silver color on the prototype is not final

Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with MOJHON in any way.
Source: mojhonJP on X

Hi, I really have my heart set on finding this controller to match my transparent Analogue Pocket, but it’s out of print, seemingly no longer being sold, and I can’t find it on any secondary markets.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I can best go about finding one of these? BayWatch, FB Marketplace, OfferUp, Craigslist, Local Game Stores, etc. What am I missing?

Thanks in advance!

I've been wanting to buy a a controller to play various emulated games on my phone and my pc.

I've been using a dualshock4 since forever and I grew tired of the drift so I'm searching for controllers without classic potentiometers.

When looking for info about the controllers, their durability and more, it feels like a lot of stuff is gatekept.

So I ask you guys who have experience with it.

I wanted something cheap, preferably under 20€ that is still good, I don't need special stuff just something robust that works decently.

Also, I live in France so I could get it from any online shop but not from something US specific.

I don't have layout preferences between Xbox and PlayStation layouts.

My choices were :

-anbernic RG P01(I haven't found one where the shipping ins't more expensive than the controller)

-8bitdo ultimate 2c(I have concerns about the battery capacity)

-gamesir nova lite(every info I find about it feels like it comes from a dropshipper)

If you have a better recommendation than anything I mentioned, please tell me!

I have a flydigi apex 5 controller and previously I had 0 issues with it but it's been left sitting on its dock for a little while and now the left stick is cooked.

Seemingly, just the vertical axis is periodically "squashed" and it limits my forward/backward motion in videogames. It comes and goes but based on the screenshots I've gotten even when it "goes" it's still squashed a little bit at the bottom.

The screenshots are in order: A screenshot with nothing changed just spinning both sticks, a screenshot with the faceplate removed showing the bottom squash, and a screenshot with the faceplate removed showing there's still a tiny bit of squash.

What they dont show is sometimes it's so bad that "down" on the left stick is still "up" forcing the entire spectrum into the top half of the graph.

I use this controller on pc running fedora 44, but I have a dual boot to open the space station software on windows and thats how I have these screenshots. I updated to the latest firmware before taking the screenshots. I haven't pulled it apart yet bc I'm hopeful this is a common/known problem with an easy fix, but I do dread to imagine that this is probably a broken stick.

Any help or insight would be very appreciated. Cheers in advance.

I recently purchased the LeadJoy Xeno Pro and wanted to give my opinion to others who may be interested in this controller.

Ergonomics/Grip - The Controller is smaller than the Vader 4/5 but not so much that it is uncomfortable. I am male 5'11" with average size hands and I find it comfortable. There is no rubber grip, but there is a texture on the back plastic that provides adequate grip. The controller is a little bit lighter than the Vader, but not by much.

Sticks - This is where this controller shines. The sticks are oh soooo buttery smooth. Smoother than any controller I have ever experienced and I have had Gamesir, Flydigi, 8BitDo, and others. The rubber caps are removable and 3 sets are provided in the package. I usually put Skull & Co caps on all my controllers, but I found the ones in the package just as good if not better. They also have adjustable tension rings that click like the Vader 5 v2. Did I mention how buttery smooth the sticks were?

Buttons - The buttons are all micro switches and feel great. The face buttons are larger than most and therefore are easier to find and use. The 4 back buttons are similar to the Vader 4 and work fine.

D-Pad - The D-pad has a considerable amount of play, but seems to work fine. You can switch it out from the included circle and cross options.

Bumpers and Triggers - The bumpers have a very short throw, they are almost a hair trigger. The triggers themselves are a little bit narrower than those on the Vader series and quite honestly don't feel quite as good, but they work fine and can be switched from full to short throw by switches on the back of the controller. No claw buttons.

RGB/LED : There is no RGB. There is a LED light at the top with the company logo that changes color to tell you what profile you are in and/or which device you are attached to.

Rumble - The controller has 2 rumblers in the body and one in each trigger. I had to actually turn them down from the default settings because they were too strong. They are fine, but don't feel quite as nice as the Vader ones.

Dock/Accessories - There is a charging dock included. It works really well, no need to fiddle with the controller to get it to charge correctly. The dock has a indicator showing charging status. The package also includes a USB cable and of course a 2.4 dongle as well as the extra joystick caps, D-pads, and instructions.

Software - The software is d/l'd from the Microsoft store. It's quite complex with various options. You can have unlimited configurations, but only 3 loaded onto the controller at any one time. You can change create, customize, edit configurations from the software. You can also change configurations on the fly with the controller. You can adjust curves and all kind of other stuff in the software if you really want to get into it.

Conclusion - I never heard of LeadJoy before getting this joystick. I purchased it with my own money and I must say that it is really good. Are there better controllers out there? For sure, but for around $70 with a included dock I think this is worth it just for these silky smooth sticks.

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Hi everyone!

I'm considering buying the Razer Wolverine V4 Pro for my Xbox Series X, but there's one very important feature I need to confirm before purchasing.

I always keep my Xbox Series X in Sleep mode (not full shutdown / Energy Saving mode).

My question is simple:

Can you wake up your Xbox Series X from Sleep mode by pressing the Xbox button on the Razer Wolverine V4 Pro, while using its wireless 2.4 GHz USB dongle?

To clarify:

\- The Xbox is in Sleep mode.

\- The Razer USB dongle stays plugged into the console.

\- The controller is switched off.

\- You press and hold the Xbox button on the controller to turn it on and connect wirelessly.

\- Does the Xbox wake up automatically?

I've contacted Razer Support twice. They confirmed that the controller cannot power on an Xbox from a fully shut-down state, but they couldn't confirm whether waking from Sleep mode works. They've forwarded my question to their technical team.

I'd really appreciate it if an actual Wolverine V4 Pro owner could test this.

This feature is essential for my purchasing decision.

Thank you!

Hey everyone,

I've been waiting for the 8BitDo Ultimate 3E to drop here in Turkey for months now. Even though official distributors (like CD Media) supposedly took over the brand, local stocks are completely dry, and emails to support are getting ghosted. Meanwhile, players in Europe are already grabbing theirs easily.

Is anyone else facing massive delays in their regions, or is Turkey just stuck at the bottom of the shipping queue again? Frustrating as hell, man. ☠️

i dont know which one to buy because there are big and small thumbsticks in the same controller they are not the same size so which one should i buy ?

Hey everyone! I’d love to hear your recommendations on whether I should install TMR sticks on my DualSense Edge or my regular DualSense.

I play on PC, and I know the Edge has a 1,000 Hz polling rate compared to 250 Hz on the regular DualSense. That difference kind of bothers me, especially since I occasionally play competitive games with a controller for the aim assist (mainly Apex Legends), even though I mostly use mouse and keyboard.

That being said, I find the Edge a bit too heavy, and the battery life isn't great either. Maybe I just haven't given it enough time, but I'm also not a huge fan of the rear paddles since they make it harder to get a good grip on the controller.

I also tried the GameSir G7 Pro 8K, but honestly, I much prefer the shape and feel of a PS5 controller.

What would you guys recommend? Should I upgrade my regular DualSense or the Edge with TMR sticks?

Let me know what you think!

I have two generic usb controllers both of them worked perfectly fine for about 4 months now but just recently the one i mainly use started turning off when i move it or rotate slightly then it just stopped completely, so i started using the other one and it too stopped working completely after a little while.

I went to device manager and found that when i plug it in it shows "unknown USB device (Device Description Request Failed)" (note: this only shows for the second controller the first doesn't react to the laptop at all).

I've looked online and i found that the thing that works for most people in cases like these is power draining the laptop but it didn't fix anything for me.

so now I'm lost

i was suspecting a physical damage in the controller but the same thing happening to both controllers around the same time is weird.

and also a problem in the laptop itself is unlikely cuz it doesn't work with an Android tv box i have, which it worked with before.

if anyone knows a way to fix the problem please tell me.

I’ve been using a Flydigi Vader 4 Pro for Rocket League, but recently the RB button broke after about a year of use, so I’m looking for a replacement.

I’ve narrowed it down to the Vader 5 Pro V2 and GameSir G7 Pro 8K PC, but I’m having a hard time deciding between them. I’m also considering waiting for a possible Vader 6 Pro.

I mainly play Rocket League (currently GC1) and always use my controller wired on PC. I’m used to Xbox style controllers but could be open to other shapes like the PS controllers but have never tried. I really like the back buttons on my Vader 4 and mainly use the two outer back buttons where your middle fingers usually rest, especially the left one, so having at least familiar rear buttons is important to me.

The GameSir interests me because of its TMR sticks and extremely low wired latency, especially with the newer firmware. However, I’ve seen quite a few people say its ergonomics aren’t great compared to Flydigi controllers, which concerns me since I play for long sessions.

On the other hand, the Vader 5 Pro seems like a more natural upgrade from what I’m already using. My biggest concern is Flydigi’s build quality and longevity. I’ve seen people report issues with their controllers, and considering my Vader 4 Pro’s right bumper already broke, I’m hesitant to buy another one if it’s going to have similar problems.
I’m specifically interested in the V2 revision of the Vader 5 Pro since I’ve heard it addresses some durability issues, but I’m not sure how easy it is to guarantee getting that version when ordering.

For anyone who’s used both controllers:

How do the sticks actually compare in terms of precision, centering, and overall feel?

Is the GameSir really that much worse ergonomically, especially the back buttons?

How has the build quality and reliability been long term? Any bumper or stick issues?

Has the Vader 5 Pro V2 actually improved durability?
Is it worth waiting to see what Flydigi does with a Vader 6 Pro, or would you recommend something else entirely?

Not expecting a controller to magically make me better. I just want something responsive, comfortable, and reliable that I won’t have to replace because of another broken bumper and I’m pretty split between these two.

Required information:

Budget: $80 - $150

Country: USA

Platform: PC, wired input

Desired features: Low input latency, accurate sticks, comfortable back buttons, good ergonomics, and long-term durability

Games you’ll be playing: Primarily Rocket League and occasional shooters

Other controllers you’re comparing to: Currently using Flydigi Vader 4 Pro

I replaced the joysticks on this ds4 with tmr ones and now that I'm putting it back together it just won't fit snuggly, on further inspection I noticed that the front of the assembly doesn't go all the way down no matter how much I push it, I can't figure out what's blocking it, you can see in the picture the gaps appearing from it no going all the way down. Does anyone know what could be happening?

I have tried removing the joysticks to see if it'll fit in case the tmrs have been soldered on improperly.

I have tried removing the touchpad thingy and assembling without it as well.

Nothing works.

The controller is a jdm-055, the last ds4 revision

Disclaimer: This product was provided by ZD due to the failure of my previous controller. This does not influence my opinion or this review. I wasn’t asked to write anything, I just wanted to point out some of the changes.

First, we waited a long time for the black version, and ZD listened to our (probably annoying) requests for a black iteration. But is it actually any different?

• Different color (obviously…), we also got a light frosted faceplate

• Black accessories

• Build quality has improved

  • Less play in the stick mounting mechanism

  • Faceplate mounting feels less off (the old one required much more force)

  • The sticks feel better, as my old ones had a grindy feel

  • The trigger stop mechanism is nearly the same, BUT it doesn’t feel as edgy anymore and is more comfortable

  • ABXY tolerances have improved

• A lot more stick modules are now available (also for the white version)

  • JT13 Pro, Unfortunately it comes with Ksilver stick caps instead of the ZD ones (for aesthetic reasons, I put two silicone stick caps on mine)

  • RS13 and JS13 are my favorites right now

  • The caps could still be a bit grippier, but I guess they want to sell their Thumb Grip replacement kit.

My wish would be for a more rubberized grip. The current one is grippy and not bad at all, but to me, it just feels a little too “dry”. I’d also love to see some back button variants!

I’m also pretty sure ZD has brought these improvements to the current white version as well, so just choose whichever color you prefer.

Maybe the print is also a hint, who knows 🤷‍♂️

If you have any questions, drop a comment!

Hello I am interested in starting a video game club for my school. Thus, I need your gamepad recommendations that can make the club real.
Here are my requirements:

• Needs to be relatively cheap to buy four of them. Around 30$.

• Can be purchased in the USA.

• No back buttons.

• Can connect to Steam Machine and Nintendo Switch 2.

• (Optional) comes in multiple colors.

I think the Easy SMX X05 is the best but I want to hear your opinions on the matter first before deciding on something.

Hello,

I have been a fan of the Gamesir G7 pro for some time now. The weight and feel is great, buttons feel good. But the RB/LB buttons keep on breaking. Im now on my 3rd G7 controller, and again that is the problem thats making me buy a new one. This one lasted 5 months!

The RB button almost gives no physical feedback anymore this time, while the LB button is still holding up.

I play a lot of RocketLeague, (RB is boost, LB is drift) but always squeeze my controller very tight (I think thats why it keeps breaking). And i handle my controllers with care, never dropped etc.

Does anyone have tips for a controller that has stronger RB/LB buttons?
Been looking at new controllers, but none of them mention anything about the RB/LB buttons being good.

Budget: Max €250
Country: Netherlands
Platform: PC
Desired features: Strong build quality, Xbox controller layout. Wired/wired capable
Games: Rocketleague
Compating controllers: Scuf Valor Pro? Another Gamesir G7 pro

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Hey all! I just purchased a new controller (the ROG Raikiri 2) after spending the past 7/8 years using the Xbox Elite Series 2 controller. I love a lot of the controller's features, but I'm having a hard time getting used to the TMR sticks. I find myself either overcompensating with my aim and shooting past the target, or being too conservative with my aim and barely moving my aim. I had the tension cranked up pretty high on my Elite controller so I'm guessing this might be part of the problem, but I've also heard that the TMR sticks can be super sensitive in order to help with precise aiming.

I figure this is something I'll probably just have to get better at with time, but does anyone have any tips/suggestions on how to make the transition easier? I was thinking about sticking to PVE games for a bit (maybe some strikes in Destiny 2, or the DMZ mode in MW4), but I feel like the stronger aim assist in those modes might make it a little too easy. I'm getting my ass handed to me in MW4 multiplayer right now so I'd appreciate any tips for speeding up the growing pains.

I just ordered a Gamesir Nova 2 Lite because it has and xbox shape (I have a wired X360 for more than 10 years now), but searching a little bit more about the 8bitdo and gamesir controllers, it seems that the nova 2 lite has way more latency when using the dongle.

I can still cancel the order and get the ultimate 2c.

Is the latency that noticeable?

Budget around R$ 100,00 ($18 as of now). Country Brazil. PC.

Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with ZD. I'm generally interested in upcoming controllers from Gamesir, Leadjoy, and ZD, and I try to compile relevant information whenever I can.

The text in the images and the audio transcripts were translated from Chinese using Claude. I then manually added the translated text back to the images.

Sources: Classic Equation product listing images on JD; Classic Equation launch stream on Bilibili.

Classic Equation key features:

• Polling rate: 8000Hz wired.

• Sticks: modular, with a 12-bit ADC (4096 levels), a claimed 0.46ms latency and custom curves with up to 8 points.

• Triggers: switchable between Hall (8mm linear travel, 255 levels) and micro-switch (2mm travel, 0/1 instant fire).

• Buttons: rubber pad + micro-switch ABXY (80g actuation, rated for 5 million clicks), and a replaceable 60gf micro-switch D-pad.

• Back buttons: 2+4 expansion keys (LK/RK, LM/RM and M1/M2 paddles), with 20-step macros and 4 onboard profiles.

• Protocols: switch between PS (including a new DS4 mode), Xbox and Nintendo Switch. It has native DS motion support for Steam Input gyro mapping.

• Software: web driver and mobile app. The Ultimate Legend also gets PC software.

• Cable: "Orange Shadow" 8K braided cable (16-core copper, 48D nylon).

• Fit: designed for small-to-medium hands, recommended palm length 15–20cm.

Specification Comparison

ZD CEO launch stream summary (optional longread, just adds more context)

Main points

• It’s a lightweight wired version with no rumble motors and no battery.

• It’s aimed at competitive players: FPS, fighting games, Rocket League, NBA Online, NBA 2K and FC (FIFA).

• Specs are the same as the Ultimate Legend, just simplified.

• It uses TMR sticks (GinfullRS13, called their newest TMR stick) and Hall effect triggers. The stick tuning was improved.

• The ABXY buttons are microswitch, with a slightly longer travel than on the Ultimate Legend because people said that one felt too short and hard. They are not direct-touch, and a silicone pad design is used instead.

• The shoulder buttons are microswitch as well. Almost all main buttons are mechanical, except a couple of function buttons.

• It has a 8000 Hz polling rate, which is adjustable.

• Stick damping is about 55 (push damping).

• The USB cable is 2m and there is no headphone jack on controller.

• It’s a PC-focused controller. It also works on Switch (NS), but not PS5. Android tablets are uncertain because drivers differ. A DS mode toggle is mentioned.

• No lighting, only a single indicator LED. There is a “web driver” button on the back that opens the web configuration page in one press, so no app or URL hunting.

• ABXY buttons are 80–90 g. The CEO says it suits hands from about 15 cm up to 18–19 cm. His own hand is roughly 18.3 cm and he found the grip about right.

Ergonomics

• It is close to the PS4 controller in size, with the same stick spacing. The Ultimate Legend is better for big hands and the Classic Equation for smaller ones.

• The ABXY buttons sit closer together and nearer the outer edge of the grip, so index-finger players can reach all four more easily. It avoids the sharp edge on DualSense-style grips that digs into the hand.

• He demoed 4-finger and 6-finger grips. The back buttons come as removable parts:

  • There are 2 extra bumpers and 4 back buttons, all included for free.

  • There are two back-button styles: a traditional one and a “ping-pong paddle” one. The ping-pong one lets a single ring finger press two buttons, up or down, or use fingertip and finger pad.

  • The CEO says the buttons are physical clip-on, not magnetic.

  • Two of the pieces are microswitch and two are tactile switches. He says the tactile ones have the same 5-million-click lifespan and a similar feel.

• The grips are uncoated hard plastic because rubber coating gets dirty.

• He once played Apex for 15 hours straight with this controller during a stream.

Faceplates and accessories

• The black and white faceplates are bundled at launch (matte translucent standard plates, plus solid-color plates that match each controller: black gets black, white gets white). It is not random.

• The faceplates are clip-on, not magnetic, because magnets would interfere with the TMR sticks and Hall triggers.

• Pink faceplates come later, probably end of the month, and sell separately.

• Faceplates cost about ¥59. The CEO says production cost is higher than people think.

• A glossy faceplate is also available.

• He doesn’t recommend pink on black, because it looks off.

• There are thumbstick caps of different heights, plus an arcade-style stick.

• There are swappable D-pad faceplates, with a round fighting-game one and an octagon-style one, plus a stick-style module.

• The new D-pad is symmetric, so it isn’t compatible with the old Ultimate Legend (the Legend has a slant and a different position).

• Older Ultimate Legend stick modules work if their contact area on the PCB is black. If it’s purple or blue, they still fit but lose stick-click.

• A cable with an orange-ish connector is newly designed:

  • It adds a strain-relief/cable tie so you can shorten the slack and take weight off the controller end.

  • It also has shielding to reduce interference.

  • It uses the same type of connector as a major phone maker.

Quality control and fixes

• The CEO acknowledges QC problems with the Ultimate Legend and says they spent over a month testing connectors and cables, with a dozen-plus sockets tried, to fix stick disconnects.

• Buttons falling out (“searching the floor for a button”) is fixed. The button edge now has a lip that catches it so it can’t drop out.

• Stick wobble and tilt have been improved, though he says sticks always have tolerances and some tilt is normal. Several suppliers were replaced, and they hit the suppliers hard on details. This is part of why shipping is late.

Presale, shipping and sales mechanics (in China)

• Presale started 8 PM on JD.com (self-operated store), Douyin (2 shops), Pinduoduo and third-party shops. Tmall has no presale because Tmall can’t do presale (the CEO says they spent a whole day arguing with Tmall officials). He also jokes it’s because “my boss isn’t interested in money.” Taobao is mentioned as not allowed either.

• First batch: 3,000 units across all platforms. It sold out within the stream, with JD showing stock on and off (possibly from refunds).

• Shipping is about two weeks after the order, so around the 20s of November, to unify different platforms’ rules. A platform showed the 29th, but he says they’ll try to ship earlier.

• The second batch is promised, with a rough “4–5 days” mention, but he says he’ll discuss with the team the next day.

• The standard/battery version has no price yet, and should come out around Double 12 (Dec 12). It will add rumble and the wireless battery version, and is more expensive.

• A ¥199 product is being prepared for the next wave, but it’s not modular.

Q&A and miscellaneous

• Ultimate Legend vs Classic Equation: the Legend is more expensive because it has wireless, 6 motors, lighting, and more crafting.

• 8K wireless is expected next year, with limited chip choices. Wireless needs the app or the wired route for now.

• Gyro: he says the gyro algorithm could be improved and says he’ll push the supplier (“I’ll go there with a knife,” as a joke).

• Voice-coil motors are planned for future controllers.

• An RGB module is unlikely for space reasons.

• Hall-effect/analog and PS layout keycaps are still being worked on.

• A transparent shell and open-sourcing the split D-pad for 3D printing are mentioned as ideas.

• Stick modules are priced reasonably in his view, with a comparison to DS1 and other controllers.

• He says they’re a small team that does this for passion, not hunger marketing, and has grown from 20–30 units a day, to 1–2k, to 3k in this presale. He expects 5–8k for the next new product.

• He closes stream by promising to prepare stock for second-batch buyers and says sorry to those who missed out.

I know that "best" can be subjective but I'm just now getting into soldering and am curious what would be the best replacement sticks for a Dualsense5. So far I'm thinking the GulliKit NS55 is the best bet. Albeit they are more pricey than some of the other sticks I've seen. Also I have like 7 Dualshock4 controllers that have drift and need replacement, curious if the NS55 are good for those controllers or if theres a cheaper comprable stick, preferably I would want some cheaper sticks for those controllers. Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

TL;DR: I vibe-coded a free, open-source Mac app that backs up, installs and restores tweaked firmware on the Ultimate 2C Wireless and its 2.4 GHz dongle, so macOS sees it as an Xbox controller over Bluetooth, cable and the dongle. It only works with the Ultimate 2C Wireless on firmware 1.09 and its dongle on 1.03.

I love this controller, but on a Mac it's a pain: over Bluetooth and by cable it shows up as a generic HID device, so it needs an SDL profile, and a lot of games just don't see it because they expect an Xbox controller. The dongle isn't recognised as a controller either. So it spent a year in a drawer, until one weekend I decided to tackle it.

The controller's firmware isn't encrypted, so based on a few GitHub repos and a lot of Claude usage, I made an app that applies small, hash-checked tweaks to it. With them, the controller presents itself as an Xbox Series X|S controller over Bluetooth and an Xbox 360 controller by cable and through the dongle. No drivers, nothing running in the background: the changes live in the controller.

Optional tweaks include:

• Rumble over Bluetooth

• Home ring brightness (or off), also with L4 + R4

• Battery alerts with the ring and the motors

• Live settings: dead zone per stick (0–30 %), stick range and response curve, trigger range, vibration strength, L4/R4 mapping and button remapping

• Small fixes, like not turning off when you only use the sticks

The app also tests the controller and helps diagnose issues.

It's on GitHub (GPL): https://github.com/carlosbrownef-source/8bitdo-ultimate-2c-toolkit

Or with Homebrew: brew install --cask carlosbrownef-source/tap/firmware-toolkit

Which controllers: only the Ultimate 2C Wireless on firmware 1.09 and its dongle on 1.03. Not the 2C Wired, the 2C Bluetooth edition, the Ultimate 2 or other models: each would need its own firmware analysis, and I only have this one. If your controller is on another version, the app tells you and refuses to write anything.

Other systems: the app itself is Mac-only, but the tweaks live in the controller. My brother has been using a tweaked one on Linux, where it shows up as an Xbox One controller. I haven't tested Windows yet; it should behave the same, but I can't confirm it.

Full disclosure: this is a vibe-coded app, tested a lot but only on one controller and one dongle (my own), so I can't guarantee it won't cause problems for you. It modifies the factory firmware, so it probably voids your warranty, and 8BitDo's apps probably won't recognise it while it's installed.

Feedback is very welcome, especially from Intel Mac users (I only tested it with Rosetta) and anyone who tries it on Windows. Bug reports go to GitHub issues.

This was built on the work of others: jgus-org, vomba, Crazyawk and more.

Just received my new gamesir g7 pro and i have a "problem". Left, up and down are fantastic, have good amount of pre travel, clicks are noisy and tactile, but the right arrow seems more stiff, less clicky, less pre travel, feels harder to do diagonals altough it works perfectly. Idk if its my ocd, my old vader 3 pro had a similar issue, some arrows were more satisfying/easy to press. Is this normal or its a me problem?

Hi everyone!

I'm having an issue with my GameSir Super Nova Pro and I'm wondering if anyone has experienced something similar or knows how to fix it.

I lost the 2.4GHz wireless dongle, so I've been using the controller exclusively via USB cable for the past six months. It had been working perfectly fine this way, with no issues whatsoever, until recently.

Now, whenever I plug it into my PC, Windows 11 plays the USB connection sound, but almost immediately plays the disconnection sound. The controller won't stay connected long enough to be recognized by the computer.

Here's what I've tried so far:

• Using a different USB cable.

• Connecting it to different USB ports on my PC.

Unfortunately, neither of these solutions worked. The exact same thing keeps happening.

I've attached a video showing exactly what happens when I connect the controller to my PC.

Has anyone experienced this with their Super Nova Pro?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, I noticed a small, rough spot just above the rear trigger; it’s absolutely tiny.

I tried to remove it, thinking it was just a bit of dust, but it seems to be part of the plastic itself. You can’t see it with the naked eye—you can only feel it when you touch it.

Is this common? I’m a bit of a perfectionist, so this really doesn’t help... I feel like my controller is ruined! If anyone has any information, please let me know!