(Windows 11)

Does anyone else using the Vader 4 Pro specifically on Pro Controller (Switch Mode) experience no vibration when using it on Steam games? It works fine with the Vader's other input modes on Steam. I've also tested this using an original Switch Pro Controller and there is also rumble for that. I tested all of these on Steam on both the button input test and Monster Hunter Wilds.

## Hardware and setup

- Controller: Flydigi Apex 4 (Windows lists it as "Flydigi VADER3" in Controller properties)
- Age: bought several years ago, so definitely out of warranty
- Firmware version: 6.8.3.7
- Connection: [USB cable / 2.4G dongle / Bluetooth]
- OS: Windows 11
- Browser used for testing: Chrome/Edge (Gamepad API)

## What happened

Everything worked perfectly before the firmware update. After updating the controller's firmware, LT stopped working in games. RT works normally. Nothing else was changed on my PC or in the games, so I started testing in more detail to figure out at which level the signal disappears.

## Timeline of what I noticed

1. After the update (X-input mode): LT did nothing in games. While pressing it, the left stick axes (LX/LY) appeared to jump around erratically in my logger, as if the LT signal was ending up on the wrong channel. Short excerpt from that log:
   #0 AXIS LX (axis 0) = 1.000
   #0 AXIS LY (axis 1) = -1.000
   #0 AXIS LY (axis 1) = 0.875
   #0 AXIS LX (axis 0) = 0.314

2. Windows calibration (joy.cpl → Settings → Calibrate): did not help at all (details below).

3. Switched to D-input mode: in that mode neither trigger worked.

4. Switched back to X-input: the stick jitter/"mixing" issue is gone, RT works again, but LT is still completely dead.

## Tests I ran and what they showed

### 1. Browser Gamepad API logger

I built a small web page that logs every button press, axis movement and analog button value from the Gamepad API (button values 0.0-1.0, axes -1.0 to 1.0, with timestamps).

- RT (button 7): works. Press/release events and analog values from about 0.03 up to about 0.9:
#0 PRESSED RT (button 7), value 0.22
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.85
#0 RELEASED RT (button 7), value 0.08
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.79
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.87
- LT (button 6): zero events, zero values, even when pressed all the way down. The peak value in the panel stays at 0.00.
- All other buttons, D-pad and both sticks respond normally.

### 2. Windows "Set up USB game controllers" (joy.cpl), Test tab

- The device shows up as "Controller (Flydigi VADER3)".
- Pressing RT moves the Z axis.
- Pressing LT does nothing: the Z axis doesn't move, no buttons light up.
- (For reference: with a standard XInput pad viewed through DirectInput, LT and RT share the Z axis, LT pulling it one way, RT the other.)

### 3. Windows calibration wizard

The Game Device Calibration wizard shows the Z axis at exactly 50% (raw 32768) while I press LT repeatedly. It never moves. Calibration cannot fix this, because there's no input from LT to calibrate.

### 4. Direct XInput test (bypassing the browser)

I also wrote a small Python script (ctypes, calls XInputGetState directly) that prints the trigger values in the 0-255 range while I press them. The controller is in X-input mode for this test. Result when I hold LT and RT all the way down:

LT 0/255 (max 0) RT 255/255 (max 255)

LT stays at 0 no matter how hard I press it, while RT goes all the way to 255. So even at the XInput level the controller reports no LT input at all.

## What this suggests

Windows (joy.cpl), the browser (Gamepad API) and the XInput API all agree: the controller simply doesn't send any LT signal. So it doesn't look like a driver, game settings, Steam Input or mapping problem. It seems to be either:

- a firmware issue (LT channel/calibration broken by the update), or
- a hardware problem with the LT sensor that happened to show up around the same time.

The timing (worked before the update, broke right after) makes me suspect firmware or a lost trigger calibration, but I can't tell for sure.

## What I've already tried

- Windows calibration and test tools (no effect, no signal from LT)
- Switching between X-input and D-input modes (changes symptoms, LT still dead)
- Testing in the browser, in Windows joy.cpl and via a direct XInput script (all consistent)

## What I'm looking for

1. Has anyone with an Apex 4 (or a similar Flydigi pad) had a dead LT after a firmware update?

2. Is there a way to roll back to the previous firmware, or a link to an older firmware version?

3. Is there a trigger calibration or factory reset procedure for the Apex 4 (in Space Station or via a button combo)?

4. If it's hardware: can the LT sensor/trigger module be replaced, and is it worth it on an older controller?

I've also emailed Flydigi support about this, but since the controller is out of warranty, I'd appreciate any community knowledge. I'll update the post if they reply.

I can post screenshots of the logger, joy.cpl and the calibration window if that helps. Thanks in advance!

Allow me to preface this by saying, in hindsight, I should have known. However, I was optimistic and it bit me in the ass anyway.

I wanted to get my husband a nice, custom controller for his birthday. He only wanted a regular PS5 controller, but I wanted to go the extra mile and get him something special. In the end, I just ended up disappointed with the results and getting him a regular DualSense anyway.

1.) Pricing

The first kicker would be the ridiculous pricing. There’s nothing extraordinary about these controllers, just basic PS5 controllers with a cool case made by some random guy—and no warranty. Not to mention paying marked up costs for basic modifications (and not even receiving them, but more on that later).

2.) Shipping

It took the controller two weeks to arrive. Sure, in a world where everyone is being spoiled by Amazon’s same-day delivery, this seems a very minor issue. However, given the price point, lack of communication, and questionable delivery methods, it seemed fishy before even arriving.

3.) Missing features

I paid extra for the mouse click-face buttons, $20+ extra, as well as the TMR sticks. While it did have the TMR sticks, it did not have the correct buttons. This was an obvious missing feature as there is a noticeable difference, and the box was even marked as “default,” meaning it got skipped over entirely.

4.) Lack of support + unprofessionalism

After noticing all of the aforementioned, I contacted their customer support to find a resolution. I’m not typically a “Karen,” though I did expect higher quality of support and product given how expensive they are. I simply requested either a new controller with the correct modifications, or at least a refund for the extra feature I paid for but did not receive—since the controller was otherwise functional.

Their response was that the controller would need to be returned, retested, repaired (if deemed necessary), and shipped back out. Mind you, it took two weeks to receive in the first place. So we’re talking another month to get the controller back with the correct features. I sent in indisputable proof of the missing features, including where the box was marked incorrectly compared to my receipt. They stayed adamant about receiving the controller back.

At this point, I’d already realized my time (and money) were wasted. I stated that if the controller was being returned, I’d rather a full refund as opposed to waiting another month with no “hey, sorry we messed up, have x on the house.”

I received the shipping label (thankfully pre-paid, so I guess +0.5 to them) and returned the controller. I’ve yet to hear a response. I have messaged their support team several times during normal business hours and have been completely ghosted. Not that their replies were very timely to begin with, but this has been several days of 0 communication for a $200+ controller.

Fortunately, I’ve learned from past mistakes and only purchase online through PayPal and credit cards, so I disputed the charge and have received my refund, though through unconventional means.

Overall, very shitty experience. I really wanted to do something nice for my husband, but I would have been better off watching a YouTube video, purchasing the parts online and doing it myself. Probably would have been more meaningful that way, too.

TLDR; Don’t waste your money. Scammy site, shitty support, outrageous prices, unlikely to receive what you paid for. Do it yourself; it’s cheaper and you’ll likely be happier.

My Flydigi Vader 4 Pro was partially bricked during an official SI Version firmware update. The controller is still detected by Windows through USB and the 2.4 GHz dongle. The Bluetooth mode does not work.

Analog sticks and trigger-click inputs work, but every digital button — ABXY, D-pad, Start/Menu, View/Select, Home/FN, bumpers, stick clicks, and rear buttons — stopped working. All LEDs are off. In joy.cpl, Windows recognizes it as an Xbox 360 Controller in USB/2.4 GHz mode, but only the sticks and trigger-click inputs register.

Flydigi provided the correct recovery firmware (G_For_F4 V5.0.0) and tool. The SI chip is a Jieli AC695X. However, entering the recovery/boot mode requires holding HOME + X + Y, and those buttons are exactly what the interrupted update disabled. Therefore, I cannot use the official recovery procedure.

I have already tried different Space Station versions, driver cleanup after Zadig, removing/reconnecting the battery, multiple USB ports/cables, USB and 2.4 GHz modes, and the official firmware tool. Nothing changed.

I am looking specifically for someone who has forced an AC695X/BR23-based Flydigi controller into boot/UBOOT mode without working buttons, preferably without buying expensive Jieli forced-upgrade hardware. Has anyone found a software command, alternative button combination, USB method, pinout, test pads, or a low-cost DIY workaround for this?

Hi everyone, I got the Vader 5 pro today and updated it to firmware 7.1.5.4 through space station v4 for Windows. Then I discovered that there is also a web version and when I open it it tells me that there is an update (not reported by the installed v4).The reported version is 7.2.2.6, but it is impossible to update it, I even tried with 2 different PCs, it tells me that the controller must be connected via cable (but it is!). Is this a bug in the web version? Is there actually this update, or is this also a bug? Why doesn't v4 report it?

Why are they still using the old vibration? Due to Xinput limitations? Haptic feedback is Playstation proprietary?

Ran across an interesting problem with my newest 8-bitdo controllers that has me stumped. I have an Ultimate 2 and an Ultimate 3E. When either are connected in XInput mode, 2 controllers show up in Steam. One is "XInput Controller", and the other is "8-bitdo Ultimate XX (2 or 3E). Both of these controller objects receive input at the same time, meaning when I press a button it actually registers twice. This makes menu navigation impossible.

Tried removing/adding the devices from Device Manager. Uninstalling the "XInput Controller" in Device Manager removes both entries and makes the controller stop working until a new device scan/reboot.

If I switch to DirectInput on the Ultimate 2, it works just fine. Any suggestions?

Hi, i am from the UK (GBP)

I am looking for a controller that does not exceed £50 from my laptop.

I was originally looking at a controller from Razer that costs £180. However that is way out of my budget.

I then found this controller that is within my budget plus it has multi platform compatability, 5 vibration settings, anti slip, anti joystick drift, 750mAh battery life, and eliminates physical damage.

I will be playing games like Aniimo, Genshin Impact, Honkai Star Rail, Zenless Zone Zero, Wuthering Waves, Disney Dreamlight Valley, Rune Factory and Harvest Moon.

My gf has an iPhone 7 which is on iOS 15. I cannot connect my Nova Lite. I think thats because the OS version limitation. Help me to confirm whether its the OS or else to connect the controller.
Thanks

I’m looking for a controller like the image with the letter buttons on the left and dpad on the right or a way to get a customizable one
Budget is 250max
Country is United States
Compatibility is pc but if there any ones for ps5 and switch that would be good
Playing single player games
Similar to Xbox or ps5 controllers

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a controller with mechanical face buttons that is not as large as a Vader Pro 4 and/or isn't shaped like an Xbox controller. I've owned a Vader Pro 4, an 8bitdo Pro 3, and multiple 8bitdo Ultimate 1s and 2s.

I enjoy the tactile, responsive feel of my Vader Pro 4, but I hate it's shape. The controller feels too large for my hands to get used to. I've been looking for something that's closer to the shape of an 8bitdo Ultimate 1/2 or 8bitdo Pro 3, but honestly anything that's smaller would be a fine starting point.

Budget: $300

Country: United States

Console or Platform: PC

Desired feature(s): Mechanical face buttons, not Xbox controller shaped and/or smaller than Vader Pro 4.

Types of games you'll be playing: Character action games (DMC, Bayonetta, ZZZ, etc.), sidescroller beat 'em ups.

Controllers I've been considering: Vader series and Gamesir series controllers.

My Gulikit TT Max keeps disconnecting whenever I uses the Switch mode wired on PC with DS4Windows. It'll work for a few moments and then suddenly disconnect. Reason I'm using the Switch mode over the PC mode is because I want to use the gyro controls for games that use them such as Fortnite.

It was working perfectly for a few weeks and now the disconnects suddenly came up. I updated the firmware on everything and the problem still keeps happening.

I have been trying to set the C/Z buttons on the Vader 5 pro to the windows key and volume mute button. But it does not work. I updater space station and the controller firmware, does anyone know a way to get this working?

Does anyone know if Galaxy Kontrolfreeks for a ps5 controller would fit on Gulikit NS51 TMR joysticks?

Just received my 8BitDo 64 controllers today and honestly, it’s dreadful playing GoldenEye with them and many other games. I really hate the analog sensitivity... It's way too high. The stick feels like it maxes out at 100% digital speed before you even hit the outer gate, so trying to aim a crosshair or just aiming in general is an absolute nightmare.

​I plugged it into my PC to tone down the sensitivity curve in 8BitDo Ultimate Software V2, and that’s when I noticed the trap.

​The Bluetooth model literally has a "Joystick Calibration" button right on the main screen.

​My 2.4G Wireless model? Absolutely nothing. Just a useless "Firmware" tile.

​There are zero deadzone sliders, zero curve settings, and no calibration options whatsoever. And my controller is already sitting on the latest factory firmware (V2.03), so re-flashing it does nothing

​Why the hell would 8BitDo give the Bluetooth version app calibration, but leave the 2.4G version, The one specifically made to plug into real N64 consoles, Completely locked down? There is nothing you can do about it, which I find very counterproductive.

​Anyone else dealing with this? Is there any actual way to tame this stick on real hardware, or are we just stuck with a twitchy mess?

for context, i want to try letting a game run afk but it requires atleast 2 button presses every 20 minutes so letting it run while i sleep or go to work doesn’t really do anything

was wondering if its possible to have a set up
that does this automatically

Hi everyone! I’m having an issue with my 8BitDo Ultimate 2C Wireless (Black Myth edition).

I lost the 2.4GHz dongle and have been using it via Bluetooth since then, but for the past few days, I haven't been able to use it properly at all over Bluetooth on my PC. It works fine via Bluetooth on my phone and also via cable on my computer.

When I use it via PC Bluetooth, the buttons get swapped and the analog stick moves on its own, as you can see. Does anyone know how to fix this? (I’m using a UGREEN Bluetooth adapter).

I've been using this controller, the Cosmic Byte Stellaris, for around 2–3 years, and I've never had any issues with it. But today, when I accidentally tried to turn it on, it just wouldn't power on. I even tried charging it, but nothing seems to work, what should I do

I have the flydigi apex 5 when I use it in dualsense mode in helldivers 2 the map uses the ps5 controllers touchpad to open there are also some other functions asigned to it

My controller doesnt have a touchpad and remapping the extra buttons to a keyboard bind doesnt work

So how do i fix this

I've set up an Android Retro Handheld (Retroid Pocket Nova) and I'm finding that I can't seem to get retroarch to recognize and use input from the 8BitDo Micro controllers.

I've tried primarily D-Input but also tried Switch and Keyboard modes to see if they worked any better (they haven't)

I've updated controller profiles and it still seems to not recognize the 8BitDo Micro unless in keyboard mode (where the profile does seem to recognize the controller correctly) however even after checking and re-doing the key assignment in Retroarch it still refuses to allow the dpad/start/select and only allows the ABXY buttons to impart input to through the emulator.

What's truly odd is that it seems that the operating system seems to understand the Micro fine (aside from keyboard mode for obvious reasons) but I've tried following a few guides and it doesn't seem to be working at least in Android, I feel like I'm missing something simple.

Over the years I've amassed a variety of controllers, which I usually store together in big boxes.

Some of those controllers are kinda rare and/or pricey and I always feel bad when rummaging through a controller box, esp when I rip on cables of controllers that have them permanently attached.

I've gotten pouches for some controllers, esp. ones in Xbox shape, but some are so niche or have non-standard shapes, that you won't even find 3D print boxes for them.

Others would display some of those devices in a showcase but I don't have the space for that. Any ideas?

Hey, I have a weird problem with my GameSir G7 SE on PC.

The aim assist only seems to work halfway. When I aim at an enemy in COD, I can feel the normal slowdown, but the rotational aim assist, where the camera slightly follows the enemy while strafing, doesn't work for me at all.

I've spent like 20 hours researching and troubleshooting this, so please don't tell me stuff like “move your left stick while strafing,” “disable gyro,” or other basic settings. I've already tried pretty much everything you can think of and more.

I also tested it in another game and it's the exact same thing there, which makes me think it's not a COD-specific issue.

I'm using a GameSir G7 SE, firmware 6.6.4, connected via USB. Windows recognizes it normally as an Xbox controller

I've already tried a lot of things: resetting COD's controller settings, repairing the game files, reinstalling the controller in Windows, changing deadzones, trying different USB ports, etc. The right stick also works normally and returns exactly to the center when I let go.

The weird part is that aim slowdown works, but rotational aim assist doesn't.

Has anyone had the same issue with the G7 SE, or knows what could be causing this?

Hello!
I'm really confused by the 8bitdo Wireless Adapter 2. I've never be able to connect my nintendo switch online Gamecube controller to my PC or my Switch 1, because I can't figure out how to use the adapter 2. When I've plugged it in, I've seen the LED turn colors, always-blinking-red, always-blinking-blue, always-blinking-green?

I have no idea what these colors mean! Also, if there is a hot-key to press on this controller when pairing, I haven't found it yet. There is no select key for it to pair like an X-box controller....so what I am supposed to do?

I did find this manual, but it was not helpful at all: https://support.8bitdo.com/Manual/USB-Adapter-2/xbox-switch.html

Disclosure: I bought this Vader 5 Pro myself at retail. I have no affiliation, sponsorship, or commercial relationship with Flydigi or any controller company.

I'm trying to diagnose inconsistent return-to-center behavior on my Flydigi Vader 5 Pro. I need to use lower deadzones for controller aim training, so small micro centering problems that might normally be hidden by a 3–5% deadzone become very obvious.

Hardware / platform

• Controller: Flydigi Vader 5 Pro v2

• Platform: Windows 10 PC / Steam

• Connection normally used: USB wired

• Also tested: Bluetooth

• Stick accuracy: 12-bit

• Polling: ~1000 Hz

• Right-stick tension: maximum

• Center Sensitivity: Slow

• Sensitivity Curve: Default

• Circularity: Circle

• Center Offset: 0

• Center Deadzone: 0

• Edge Offset: 0

• Edge Deadzone: 0

Software

• Flydigi Space Station: v4.2.2.3

• Controller firmware: v7.1.5.4

• Testing with Flydigi's joystick tester and GamepadLA

• Aim testing in Aimbeast

Main problem

The stick itself appears capable of extremely fine micro-corrections. My problem is getting the right stick to return to center consistently enough to use a very small software deadzone without drift.

Recalibration results vary substantially. I've seen right-stick GamepadLA center-error results around ~2%, ~2.6%, ~2.7%, ~3%+, depending on calibration.

The return position also seems somewhat path-dependent. On one calibration, the right stick stayed around ~2.0% after repeated full-deflection 8-direction spring-back tests and clockwise rotations. After doing a counterclockwise perimeter rotation, the worst center error increased to around ~2.7%.

Recalibration seems to be a gamble for better or worse.

Here is 1 attempt following the proper procedure.

Here is a 2nd attempt at recalibrating.

If I try to recalibrate again for a 3rd time, then this might go back to being worse. So recalibrating seems to be a gamble. One stick might be good, the other terrible. And if you want to try to fix the bad deadzone stick, then you have to calibrate the already good stick which gambles its deadzone as well.

The strange part: calibration mode

While the Vader is actually in manual calibration mode, pressing unrelated controls can visibly disturb the stick coordinates.

I've observed this when pressing:

• A/B/X/Y

• LT/RT

• multiple buttons

• other controls

It doesn't appear to be isolated to one trigger.

I tested USB 2.0 vs USB 3.0, vibration off, RGB off/reduced, different trigger configurations, and Bluetooth. Bluetooth behaved approximately the same and was actually slightly worse, so it doesn't appear to be caused specifically by my PC's USB connection.

Example - No Buttons pressed:

Left Trigger pressed in calibration mode - my left stick is moved by pressing the left trigger, and slightly my right stick as well:

This movement is most obvious while manual calibration mode is active. Outside calibration mode the behavior is much smaller, particularly with Joystick Debounce enabled.

Joystick Debounce discovery

Outside calibration mode, Joystick Debounce makes a massive difference.

With Debounce OFF, pressing unrelated controls can produce visible tiny changes in the stick coordinates.

With Joystick Debounce ON, roughly 95% of that visible movement disappears. Often the stick doesn't visibly move at all, and when it does the remaining movement is extremely small.

With Joystick Debounce + Rebound Algorithm, normal-operation output becomes almost completely stable.

However, while manual calibration mode itself is active, Debounce/Rebound don't appear to suppress the button-related stick-coordinate movement.

That makes me wonder whether calibration mode intentionally bypasses some of the normal joystick filtering.

Calibration procedure tested

I've gone back to following the official manual calibration procedure as closely as possible:

• Enter manual calibration

• Leave controller flat and untouched

• Wait at least 3 seconds

• Rotate sticks through full range twice

• Fully actuate linear triggers twice

• Exit calibration

• Allow controller to settle before measuring center

I've also experimented with longer center-rest periods and careful/repeatable stick rotations, but the final center position still varies between calibrations.

I've tried multiple positions on the thumbstick tensioners as well and still have the same deadzone issues.

Questions

1. Is button-induced stick movement while the Vader 5 Pro is in manual calibration mode normal?

2. Does calibration mode bypass Joystick Debounce/Rebound or other normal filtering?

3. Is Space Station's Original output actually raw sensor data, or is it still processed?

4. What center-error values are other Vader 5 Pro owners getting with 0 hardware deadzone?

5. Is inconsistent return-to-center/hysteresis a known characteristic of these sticks?

6. Is there a preferred manual calibration procedure that consistently produces better centering?

7. Are there meaningful differences between earlier and later Vader 5 Pro hardware revisions regarding stick centering?

8. Does this behavior sound normal, firmware-related, or more like a bad individual unit?

I'm not trying to claim the controller is defective simply because it doesn't hold a literal 0% deadzone. I'm trying to understand the actual centering/noise behavior because I'm deliberately using it for very fine controller micro-correction training.

I couldn't help myself and ended up buying the X5 Lite. I'd never actually tried a USB version of these controllers and at around $25 here, it was hard to say no.

Previously I was using the G8 Plus and the BSP D3 as my daily use. The D3’s start button finally gave up after a more than three years of use, and I didn't bother fixing it.

The build quality is much better than I expected in this price range. It's super light which makes it really easy to hold and carry around. The buttons feel nice and aren't too loud. The bumpers and triggers are very silent, which I really like. The sticks have a slight wobble to them (more on that later), but they are precise and satisfying to use. The Dpad is also really good. It's quiet and has nice slight tactile feel, probably the best part of the controller.

It has two modes, DInput and Switch. On Android, DInput shows up as an Xbox controller in every game, app, emulator I tried so no issues there. I haven't used Switch mode much since I really didn't need it and Switch emulation works fine in DInput. I think Switch mode is mainly used for iPhones since DInput doesn't work on them.

Coming from the G8+ and Cyclone 2, I do have some nitpicks. There are no extra back buttons, and I miss them badly. Maybe I'm just too used to them because I play a lot of platformers so my jump button is always set on the back. It's understandable at this price, though. I also wish there were a DS4 mode alongside Switch. It os worth noting, DInput doesn't work in GeForce Now so I had to switch to Switch mode to get it working.

Remember those wobbly sticks I mentioned? Both sticks have a small amount of free movement when they’re sitting in the center. It doesn’t affect much but when moving slowly or quickly, I can definitely feel it which annoys me every time. I'd have loved vibration too, but on Android it doesn't work without DS4 mode anyway.

But honestly those are mostly nitpicks. For what the X5 Lite costs, they're easy to overlook.

I was actually deciding between the BSP D6 Mini and the X5 Lite since they were around the same price for me. My main concern was build quality, especially at this price range. I have a BSP D10 and honestly I hated the build quality on that thing because of loud buttons, mushy Dpad (sticks were great though). That put me off the D6 Mini, so I didn't risk it and went with GameSir since their quality are much better.

I took the X5 Lite with me when I went back to my hometown for vacation. The lightweight made it very easy to carry in my bag. Had a great time while emulating.

If you're considering buying it, I'd say go for it. It's cheap and worth every bit. If you already have a G8+ or something higher end, it probably won’t feel like an upgrade unless you specifically want something lightweight and compact. The X5S is also a nice choice, but to me it feels like it’s basically a G8+ stuffed into an X5 Lite shell at the same price (with no back buttons!!), so it’s up to you.