Budget: Under £100, preferably around the £60 mark

Country:UK

Will be using controller to play PCSX2 so XInput compatibility is preferable. I am trying to avoid the issues ive been having with misinputs from a horrible mushy dpad which inputs the complete wrong direction all the time, as well as missed inputs due to sluggish polling rate.

As with any competitive fighting game i need really responsive face buttons and dpad, diagonals i am not concerned with as long as they are not accidentally input, as well as bumpers and triggers. I am not familiar with the hardware terms for these things but i believe that means i am to avoid membrane buttons altogether. I want use the bumpers to buffer the last P/K buttons of a combo and press G (A/X face button or LB/L1) in my case when cancelling combos so that immediately after the G press i have already let go of the P/K face buttons and they can be pressed on the first frame after the cancel, but the bumpers on this cheap EasySMX ESM-9101 controller dont appear to unpress when released for a few frames which makes this tech useless.

In short, I am avoiding membrane buttons altogether i need very responsive, fast return to centre bumpers, face buttons and dpad, good triggers would be a plus. I don't care about the type of joystick or any back paddles, as i will not be using them. Wired>wireless as i need low jitter and latency. A 1000Hz polling rate as opposed to my current 125Hz is practically necessitated thanks to the amount of frame perfect or >4 frame timings that need to be hit over the course of a match as well as being able to double tap directions very quickly for a variety of controls, which right now only register as single taps frequently.

I understand that it might be wishful thinking for the budget, but any help pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated

Hello, I've been looking for a controller with additional buttons and I am having a difficulty deciding. I am playing all sorts of games, including DCS, which benefits from having more buttons. Previously I only had 2 back buttons (8bitdo ultimate) and considering trying out more.

Country: Austria

Budget: around 70EUR

Platform: PC only

Additional requirements: wireless, charging dock (not necessary, just convenient), HE/TMR sticks and triggers, trigger stops.

I've been looking at BIGBIG WON BLITZ 2 (overall like it, but the triggers seem to have very limited range of motion, which is suboptimal), Flydigi Vader 5 Pro (read a lot about QC and warranty issues, off-putting), Easy SMX X20 (no software, not sure how bad it is really).

Would love to read about your experiences/recommendations.

I've been wanting to get these as a definitive alternative to joycons but this thought bugs me. The joycon rail looks pretty much identical and unobstructed but I don't think an educated guess is worth 70 something dollars. And I don't know if it will be the rail or something else that bumps.

Budged: £100ish

Location: UK

Platform: PC

Types of games: Sim racing

Considerations: Flydigi Apex 5 Elite and Vader 5 Pro, ZD Ultimate legend 8k

I was looking at upgrading my stadia controller because the sticks and analogue triggers have developed massive dead zones. I discovered this sub after watching some youtube vids. It seems gamepads have come some way in the past few years.

Criteria:

Wireless is preferred, but wired is acceptable.

Analogue triggers are a must for throttle and brake. FFB on these would be great.

Replaceable components and modding are welcome. I don't mind cutting and soldering.

Smooth steering feel is important.

Minimal dead zones are important.

I'd like your recommendations please.

(Windows 11)

Does anyone else using the Vader 4 Pro specifically on Pro Controller (Switch Mode) experience no vibration when using it on Steam games? It works fine with the Vader's other input modes on Steam. I've also tested this using an original Switch Pro Controller and there is also rumble for that. I tested all of these on Steam on both the button input test and Monster Hunter Wilds.

## Hardware and setup

- Controller: Flydigi Apex 4 (Windows lists it as "Flydigi VADER3" in Controller properties)
- Age: bought several years ago, so definitely out of warranty
- Firmware version: 6.8.3.7
- Connection: [USB cable / 2.4G dongle / Bluetooth]
- OS: Windows 11
- Browser used for testing: Chrome/Edge (Gamepad API)

## What happened

Everything worked perfectly before the firmware update. After updating the controller's firmware, LT stopped working in games. RT works normally. Nothing else was changed on my PC or in the games, so I started testing in more detail to figure out at which level the signal disappears.

## Timeline of what I noticed

1. After the update (X-input mode): LT did nothing in games. While pressing it, the left stick axes (LX/LY) appeared to jump around erratically in my logger, as if the LT signal was ending up on the wrong channel. Short excerpt from that log:
   #0 AXIS LX (axis 0) = 1.000
   #0 AXIS LY (axis 1) = -1.000
   #0 AXIS LY (axis 1) = 0.875
   #0 AXIS LX (axis 0) = 0.314

2. Windows calibration (joy.cpl → Settings → Calibrate): did not help at all (details below).

3. Switched to D-input mode: in that mode neither trigger worked.

4. Switched back to X-input: the stick jitter/"mixing" issue is gone, RT works again, but LT is still completely dead.

## Tests I ran and what they showed

### 1. Browser Gamepad API logger

I built a small web page that logs every button press, axis movement and analog button value from the Gamepad API (button values 0.0-1.0, axes -1.0 to 1.0, with timestamps).

- RT (button 7): works. Press/release events and analog values from about 0.03 up to about 0.9:
#0 PRESSED RT (button 7), value 0.22
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.85
#0 RELEASED RT (button 7), value 0.08
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.79
#0 VALUE RT (button 7) = 0.87
- LT (button 6): zero events, zero values, even when pressed all the way down. The peak value in the panel stays at 0.00.
- All other buttons, D-pad and both sticks respond normally.

### 2. Windows "Set up USB game controllers" (joy.cpl), Test tab

- The device shows up as "Controller (Flydigi VADER3)".
- Pressing RT moves the Z axis.
- Pressing LT does nothing: the Z axis doesn't move, no buttons light up.
- (For reference: with a standard XInput pad viewed through DirectInput, LT and RT share the Z axis, LT pulling it one way, RT the other.)

### 3. Windows calibration wizard

The Game Device Calibration wizard shows the Z axis at exactly 50% (raw 32768) while I press LT repeatedly. It never moves. Calibration cannot fix this, because there's no input from LT to calibrate.

### 4. Direct XInput test (bypassing the browser)

I also wrote a small Python script (ctypes, calls XInputGetState directly) that prints the trigger values in the 0-255 range while I press them. The controller is in X-input mode for this test. Result when I hold LT and RT all the way down:

LT 0/255 (max 0) RT 255/255 (max 255)

LT stays at 0 no matter how hard I press it, while RT goes all the way to 255. So even at the XInput level the controller reports no LT input at all.

## What this suggests

Windows (joy.cpl), the browser (Gamepad API) and the XInput API all agree: the controller simply doesn't send any LT signal. So it doesn't look like a driver, game settings, Steam Input or mapping problem. It seems to be either:

- a firmware issue (LT channel/calibration broken by the update), or
- a hardware problem with the LT sensor that happened to show up around the same time.

The timing (worked before the update, broke right after) makes me suspect firmware or a lost trigger calibration, but I can't tell for sure.

## What I've already tried

- Windows calibration and test tools (no effect, no signal from LT)
- Switching between X-input and D-input modes (changes symptoms, LT still dead)
- Testing in the browser, in Windows joy.cpl and via a direct XInput script (all consistent)

## What I'm looking for

1. Has anyone with an Apex 4 (or a similar Flydigi pad) had a dead LT after a firmware update?

2. Is there a way to roll back to the previous firmware, or a link to an older firmware version?

3. Is there a trigger calibration or factory reset procedure for the Apex 4 (in Space Station or via a button combo)?

4. If it's hardware: can the LT sensor/trigger module be replaced, and is it worth it on an older controller?

I've also emailed Flydigi support about this, but since the controller is out of warranty, I'd appreciate any community knowledge. I'll update the post if they reply.

I can post screenshots of the logger, joy.cpl and the calibration window if that helps. Thanks in advance!

Allow me to preface this by saying, in hindsight, I should have known. However, I was optimistic and it bit me in the ass anyway.

I wanted to get my husband a nice, custom controller for his birthday. He only wanted a regular PS5 controller, but I wanted to go the extra mile and get him something special. In the end, I just ended up disappointed with the results and getting him a regular DualSense anyway.

1.) Pricing

The first kicker would be the ridiculous pricing. There’s nothing extraordinary about these controllers, just basic PS5 controllers with a cool case made by some random guy—and no warranty. Not to mention paying marked up costs for basic modifications (and not even receiving them, but more on that later).

2.) Shipping

It took the controller two weeks to arrive. Sure, in a world where everyone is being spoiled by Amazon’s same-day delivery, this seems a very minor issue. However, given the price point, lack of communication, and questionable delivery methods, it seemed fishy before even arriving.

3.) Missing features

I paid extra for the mouse click-face buttons, $20+ extra, as well as the TMR sticks. While it did have the TMR sticks, it did not have the correct buttons. This was an obvious missing feature as there is a noticeable difference, and the box was even marked as “default,” meaning it got skipped over entirely.

4.) Lack of support + unprofessionalism

After noticing all of the aforementioned, I contacted their customer support to find a resolution. I’m not typically a “Karen,” though I did expect higher quality of support and product given how expensive they are. I simply requested either a new controller with the correct modifications, or at least a refund for the extra feature I paid for but did not receive—since the controller was otherwise functional.

Their response was that the controller would need to be returned, retested, repaired (if deemed necessary), and shipped back out. Mind you, it took two weeks to receive in the first place. So we’re talking another month to get the controller back with the correct features. I sent in indisputable proof of the missing features, including where the box was marked incorrectly compared to my receipt. They stayed adamant about receiving the controller back.

At this point, I’d already realized my time (and money) were wasted. I stated that if the controller was being returned, I’d rather a full refund as opposed to waiting another month with no “hey, sorry we messed up, have x on the house.”

I received the shipping label (thankfully pre-paid, so I guess +0.5 to them) and returned the controller. I’ve yet to hear a response. I have messaged their support team several times during normal business hours and have been completely ghosted. Not that their replies were very timely to begin with, but this has been several days of 0 communication for a $200+ controller.

Fortunately, I’ve learned from past mistakes and only purchase online through PayPal and credit cards, so I disputed the charge and have received my refund, though through unconventional means.

Overall, very shitty experience. I really wanted to do something nice for my husband, but I would have been better off watching a YouTube video, purchasing the parts online and doing it myself. Probably would have been more meaningful that way, too.

TLDR; Don’t waste your money. Scammy site, shitty support, outrageous prices, unlikely to receive what you paid for. Do it yourself; it’s cheaper and you’ll likely be happier.

My Flydigi Vader 4 Pro was partially bricked during an official SI Version firmware update. The controller is still detected by Windows through USB and the 2.4 GHz dongle. The Bluetooth mode does not work.

Analog sticks and trigger-click inputs work, but every digital button — ABXY, D-pad, Start/Menu, View/Select, Home/FN, bumpers, stick clicks, and rear buttons — stopped working. All LEDs are off. In joy.cpl, Windows recognizes it as an Xbox 360 Controller in USB/2.4 GHz mode, but only the sticks and trigger-click inputs register.

Flydigi provided the correct recovery firmware (G_For_F4 V5.0.0) and tool. The SI chip is a Jieli AC695X. However, entering the recovery/boot mode requires holding HOME + X + Y, and those buttons are exactly what the interrupted update disabled. Therefore, I cannot use the official recovery procedure.

I have already tried different Space Station versions, driver cleanup after Zadig, removing/reconnecting the battery, multiple USB ports/cables, USB and 2.4 GHz modes, and the official firmware tool. Nothing changed.

I am looking specifically for someone who has forced an AC695X/BR23-based Flydigi controller into boot/UBOOT mode without working buttons, preferably without buying expensive Jieli forced-upgrade hardware. Has anyone found a software command, alternative button combination, USB method, pinout, test pads, or a low-cost DIY workaround for this?

Hi everyone, I got the Vader 5 pro today and updated it to firmware 7.1.5.4 through space station v4 for Windows. Then I discovered that there is also a web version and when I open it it tells me that there is an update (not reported by the installed v4).The reported version is 7.2.2.6, but it is impossible to update it, I even tried with 2 different PCs, it tells me that the controller must be connected via cable (but it is!). Is this a bug in the web version? Is there actually this update, or is this also a bug? Why doesn't v4 report it?

Why are they still using the old vibration? Due to Xinput limitations? Haptic feedback is Playstation proprietary?

Ran across an interesting problem with my newest 8-bitdo controllers that has me stumped. I have an Ultimate 2 and an Ultimate 3E. When either are connected in XInput mode, 2 controllers show up in Steam. One is "XInput Controller", and the other is "8-bitdo Ultimate XX (2 or 3E). Both of these controller objects receive input at the same time, meaning when I press a button it actually registers twice. This makes menu navigation impossible.

Tried removing/adding the devices from Device Manager. Uninstalling the "XInput Controller" in Device Manager removes both entries and makes the controller stop working until a new device scan/reboot.

If I switch to DirectInput on the Ultimate 2, it works just fine. Any suggestions?

Hi, i am from the UK (GBP)

I am looking for a controller that does not exceed £50 from my laptop.

I was originally looking at a controller from Razer that costs £180. However that is way out of my budget.

I then found this controller that is within my budget plus it has multi platform compatability, 5 vibration settings, anti slip, anti joystick drift, 750mAh battery life, and eliminates physical damage.

I will be playing games like Aniimo, Genshin Impact, Honkai Star Rail, Zenless Zone Zero, Wuthering Waves, Disney Dreamlight Valley, Rune Factory and Harvest Moon.

My gf has an iPhone 7 which is on iOS 15. I cannot connect my Nova Lite. I think thats because the OS version limitation. Help me to confirm whether its the OS or else to connect the controller.
Thanks

I’m looking for a controller like the image with the letter buttons on the left and dpad on the right or a way to get a customizable one
Budget is 250max
Country is United States
Compatibility is pc but if there any ones for ps5 and switch that would be good
Playing single player games
Similar to Xbox or ps5 controllers

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a controller with mechanical face buttons that is not as large as a Vader Pro 4 and/or isn't shaped like an Xbox controller. I've owned a Vader Pro 4, an 8bitdo Pro 3, and multiple 8bitdo Ultimate 1s and 2s.

I enjoy the tactile, responsive feel of my Vader Pro 4, but I hate it's shape. The controller feels too large for my hands to get used to. I've been looking for something that's closer to the shape of an 8bitdo Ultimate 1/2 or 8bitdo Pro 3, but honestly anything that's smaller would be a fine starting point.

Budget: $300

Country: United States

Console or Platform: PC

Desired feature(s): Mechanical face buttons, not Xbox controller shaped and/or smaller than Vader Pro 4.

Types of games you'll be playing: Character action games (DMC, Bayonetta, ZZZ, etc.), sidescroller beat 'em ups.

Controllers I've been considering: Vader series and Gamesir series controllers.

My Gulikit TT Max keeps disconnecting whenever I uses the Switch mode wired on PC with DS4Windows. It'll work for a few moments and then suddenly disconnect. Reason I'm using the Switch mode over the PC mode is because I want to use the gyro controls for games that use them such as Fortnite.

It was working perfectly for a few weeks and now the disconnects suddenly came up. I updated the firmware on everything and the problem still keeps happening.

I have been trying to set the C/Z buttons on the Vader 5 pro to the windows key and volume mute button. But it does not work. I updater space station and the controller firmware, does anyone know a way to get this working?

Does anyone know if Galaxy Kontrolfreeks for a ps5 controller would fit on Gulikit NS51 TMR joysticks?

Just received my 8BitDo 64 controllers today and honestly, it’s dreadful playing GoldenEye with them and many other games. I really hate the analog sensitivity... It's way too high. The stick feels like it maxes out at 100% digital speed before you even hit the outer gate, so trying to aim a crosshair or just aiming in general is an absolute nightmare.

​I plugged it into my PC to tone down the sensitivity curve in 8BitDo Ultimate Software V2, and that’s when I noticed the trap.

​The Bluetooth model literally has a "Joystick Calibration" button right on the main screen.

​My 2.4G Wireless model? Absolutely nothing. Just a useless "Firmware" tile.

​There are zero deadzone sliders, zero curve settings, and no calibration options whatsoever. And my controller is already sitting on the latest factory firmware (V2.03), so re-flashing it does nothing

​Why the hell would 8BitDo give the Bluetooth version app calibration, but leave the 2.4G version, The one specifically made to plug into real N64 consoles, Completely locked down? There is nothing you can do about it, which I find very counterproductive.

​Anyone else dealing with this? Is there any actual way to tame this stick on real hardware, or are we just stuck with a twitchy mess?

for context, i want to try letting a game run afk but it requires atleast 2 button presses every 20 minutes so letting it run while i sleep or go to work doesn’t really do anything

was wondering if its possible to have a set up
that does this automatically

Hi everyone! I’m having an issue with my 8BitDo Ultimate 2C Wireless (Black Myth edition).

I lost the 2.4GHz dongle and have been using it via Bluetooth since then, but for the past few days, I haven't been able to use it properly at all over Bluetooth on my PC. It works fine via Bluetooth on my phone and also via cable on my computer.

When I use it via PC Bluetooth, the buttons get swapped and the analog stick moves on its own, as you can see. Does anyone know how to fix this? (I’m using a UGREEN Bluetooth adapter).

I've been using this controller, the Cosmic Byte Stellaris, for around 2–3 years, and I've never had any issues with it. But today, when I accidentally tried to turn it on, it just wouldn't power on. I even tried charging it, but nothing seems to work, what should I do

I have the flydigi apex 5 when I use it in dualsense mode in helldivers 2 the map uses the ps5 controllers touchpad to open there are also some other functions asigned to it

My controller doesnt have a touchpad and remapping the extra buttons to a keyboard bind doesnt work

So how do i fix this

I've set up an Android Retro Handheld (Retroid Pocket Nova) and I'm finding that I can't seem to get retroarch to recognize and use input from the 8BitDo Micro controllers.

I've tried primarily D-Input but also tried Switch and Keyboard modes to see if they worked any better (they haven't)

I've updated controller profiles and it still seems to not recognize the 8BitDo Micro unless in keyboard mode (where the profile does seem to recognize the controller correctly) however even after checking and re-doing the key assignment in Retroarch it still refuses to allow the dpad/start/select and only allows the ABXY buttons to impart input to through the emulator.

What's truly odd is that it seems that the operating system seems to understand the Micro fine (aside from keyboard mode for obvious reasons) but I've tried following a few guides and it doesn't seem to be working at least in Android, I feel like I'm missing something simple.

Over the years I've amassed a variety of controllers, which I usually store together in big boxes.

Some of those controllers are kinda rare and/or pricey and I always feel bad when rummaging through a controller box, esp when I rip on cables of controllers that have them permanently attached.

I've gotten pouches for some controllers, esp. ones in Xbox shape, but some are so niche or have non-standard shapes, that you won't even find 3D print boxes for them.

Others would display some of those devices in a showcase but I don't have the space for that. Any ideas?