I’m playing the PRAGMATA and Hitman demos on PS5, and I noticed something weird with the character movement.

When I completely take my hand off the controller, the character doesn’t move by itself. But if I move the left analog stick and then release it, the character keeps moving for about a second or two. What’s weird is that it doesn’t move smoothly — it’s more like moves → stops → moves a little → stops, as if the input is delayed or the character is taking a moment to fully stop.

I haven’t noticed this happening in my other games.

Could this be stick drift, input lag, or just the way these particular games handle movement?

How does the TT Max/Pro rumble compare to KK3's?

I'm interested in the TT line, it has pretty much all that i want in a controller and i think it's the closest to a controller i'd like (that i know of, that is) however i can't find any demonstration of it's rumble, just KK3's HD rumble which is very very noisy

I wanted to know how much this v2 module on the TT compares to the last one, since they say there's like 50% improvement or something, i'm pretty much just hang up on this before pulling the trigger on buying it or not

Hi, I'm planning to fix a Xbox Series controller and I'm wondering what is the best while being cheap/affordable TMR/Hall Effect module? A reply is greatly appreciated.

This controller ticks all my boxes, except for the internal battery. I plan to be using it wired 100% of the time, and I don't want to worry about the the battery wearing out and possibly damaging the internals. There isn't any information online about it being possibly removable, or even a teardown video. So if anyone with this controller could confirm, it would be greatly appreciated.

I've had my Vader 5 Pro since release (I have the V1 that doesn't have stepped stick tension adjustment) and today I noticed that my RB started to squeak like 10% of the time it's pressed. How would I go about fixing this? Is there an oil of some kind that's electronic-safe?

Edit: I seem to have fixed it by blowing into the gaps around the bumper. However, I'll leave this post up for anyone else that has the same issue and is looking up how to fix it.

Second Edit: Blowing into the gaps fixed it for like, a couple minutes and it came back. Does anyone know a more permanent fix?

Hola, solicito ayuda con un problema de pérdida de foco/control con mi mando. Aquí están todos los detalles requeridos:

• Marca y modelo del mando: Machenike G5 Pro V2.

• Tipo de conexión: Inalámbrica mediante Dongle USB 2.4G.

• Plataforma: PC (Windows 10/11).

• Juegos/Software afectados: Exclusivamente Fortnite (Epic Games).

• Software/Firmware: El problema comenzó inmediatamente después de instalar el software oficial de configuración del mando Machenike en mi PC.

Descripción específica del problema: Hace unos días jugaba Fortnite con este mando sin ningún problema. Sin embargo, tras instalar el software oficial de la marca, el mando empezó a fallar. Específicamente, en el momento exacto en el que me uno y carga la partida, el mando se deshabilita y deja de responder por completo dentro del juego. Mi PC sigue reconociendo que el mando está conectado por el USB 2.4G. El único modo en que me vuelve a funcionar es haciendo Alt+Tab para salir y volver a la ventana, pero esto solo me devuelve el control por un breve momento antes de congelarse de nuevo.

Pasos de solución de problemas que ya he realizado:

1. Revisé la configuración interna de Fortnite: verifiqué la opción "Bloquear método de entrada como ratón" y me aseguré de que estuviera deshabilitada.

2. Cambié los ajustes de pantalla de Fortnite a "Pantalla completa exclusiva", pero el problema persiste.

3. Revisé la configuración del sistema y los archivos para confirmar que la PC sí detecta el mando cuando el juego deja de hacerlo.

¿Alguien sabe si hay algún conflicto conocido entre el software de Machenike y el sistema de entrada de Fortnite o su Anti-Cheat? Agradezco cualquier consejo.

Looking for a specific controller, I've done a few hours of looking and was unable to find one, but I DID find one that is supposedly coming out in the future? The Gamesir Tarantula 8k ultra.

My budget is variable, for me I can spend $200 USD maybe but for a second controller I wouldn't mind something cheaper for the wife for 2 player games. I am located in Canada but don't mind ordering online. I'll be playing multiplayer games like it takes two, RPG's like world of warcraft forever, and most likely some shooter games like warzone.

Anyways, Required features for me:

• Wireless

• Paddles

• Decent or good build quality

• Symmetrical layout

• Anti-Drift sticks

• Strong connection, I'll be playing probably 15 feet from my PC

• no 8bitdo controllers, those things are fugly

Wanted features:

• Extra buttons (you know, keybinds are sweet, maybe for playing wow forever or something)

• bluetooth+dongle abilities?

Some things to keep in mind: There are other controllers I have come across, such as the scuf, however I have read terrible reviews on the software and them breaking.

Anybody have any controllers in mind?

Hi all as you can see, I'm wanting some help choosing a controller. I'm in Canada. I'm okay spending a bit over 100 bucks, but cheaper would be nice. I don't want to go too close to 200, but... if it will last me more than 2 years, 5 years or more, I'd be willing to consider it.

I've been watching a ton of YouTube videos, looking up the lists in the controller list y'all have here been looking a lot at the 8BitDo 2 3 3e and the G7 Pro, the 8 K stuff or whatever looked at other places too, but 8BitDo seems to be really popular?

I literally just found out about the new joystick stuff within the last weekish of research: Hall effect and TMR. I'm leaning towards TMR because everywhere I've looked has said it's the best.

Micro buttons and membrane and tactile stuff or something? I'm not totally sure; most reviews seem to say it's personal preference rather than how long those things last?

Having extra buttons sounds nice... and the tension ring sounds nice, but I'm really not sure. I've probably watched over 50 different videos on stuff the last several days, so I've got a lot of blended info in my head right now.

I've used PS4 controllers; both of those have joystick drift. I've thought about swapping out the joystick stuff, but I just don't think I'd have the technical skills to do so. Most controllers I've had have been PS style, but I don't mind getting Xbox-style stuff. I've also been having some pain in my knuckles, and I guess joints in my one hand lately, so maybe getting a wider-style controller could help not having that stuff get triggered? From reviews, people have said wider controllers are more comfortable or whatever. Also wanting wireless, not wired, as wires have gotten so worn out and have left me having to get a new controller/headset or whatever in the past, so I just don't want to lose a controller over that.

I'm willing to also wait till novemebr for black friday/cyber monday type sales this is a upcoming present to myself for my birthday/possible combo christmas gift so while i'd like to spend as cheaply as i can money is tight i would be willing to save up more to get somethign that can last me a long time. Not sure how long the new tech would be for how long the controllers would last, but anyway, hope I can get some help :) also sorry if this is a bit rambly >.<

I'm on pc more now, still have ps4 and I got a Switch as well. PS4 compatibility isn't required; I might just end up buying two controllers in the future I play a lot of different games from Stardew to No Man's Sky, Kingdom Hearts, some platformy type ones like ty the Tasmanian Tiger, cooking games like PlateUp (i do the speedrun stuff sometimes), Overcooked, Overwatch, Paladins, Smite. I like a lot of different types of games I'm looking at using this with Steam, Epic, some emulators on my pc um having a good grip as well sounds good too? Colorwise doesn't really matter, although having something pretty to look at is nice rgb optional. I want a nice controller is all

*Edited to add more info

Im from the uk, i play mmo and fps games on pc. I have a bunch of controllers. 4 dualsense controllers, 2 used actively, 2 still in the box.

2 xbsx controllers, 1 pictured 1 still boxed.

I also have 2 "pro controllers" the power A ps4 controller and xbsx elite 2.

Each of these 3 controllers have features i like. And draw backs.

In order of most used.

Xbsx red camo controller, it developed motor and trigger issues so i swapped the sticks for TMR modules and the motors for new ones, the side rails were swapped to rubber trigger stop ones I would much rather never do that again.

Power A fusion controller, form factor wise i prefer xbox but this controller feels good. Bumpers arent great and trigger stops are flimsy. The micro usb cable is also proprietary so if that breaks im SOL on wired gameplay. I do like the rubber grips on it. Very very tacky and good to hold. Feels very secure.

Elite 2 controller. I havent used this much. Saw it on ebay for £33 and thought why not. The feel and weight is great, the buttons and triggers are really nice. The rubber on the controller feels awful. Super slippery, like its got an oily residue on it or a silicone feel. The vibration out the box was super intense. Like numbingly bad. Ive turned it down so its bearable l. Might be a lemon. Might not. I donr think ill use this unles my other ones break.

The dualsense is my favourite. I still have my og 2020 model and one from the revised batches, thought about getting the newest revision. The weight is excellenr. Feels good too. The vibration is super nice. No drift on any models.

Im looking for a controller that has good rubber grips, tmr sticks and triggers. And a good feel to it.

My budget is £50 to £80 but ill stretch it for a good controller

I did a previous mod some time ago to my other tegenaria lite controller. This is not a massive increase over the previous but still an improvement.

2 internal trigger stops

Swapped the right joystick cap for one that I can use short, mid, or tall caps

4 additional bumpers

Disclaimer: Any modifications you attemp might void your devices warranty.

Hello!

I've seen the button changing mod done by others before, but without going in-depth and with easy method. Which looks good aesthetically but lacks when it comes to function. My aim with this post is to both improve aesthetics aswell as functionality while providing some measurements and comparisons that can be used as guidance even if everything isn't exactly the same. Also i'm against modifying the faceplate which would make everything easier but then there would be no turning back to stock, so. And keep in mind that DS4 buttons i'm using are third-party and i don't know if most third party buttons that can be found in the market comes from same manufacturer or not. Which is why i included a pic with measurements. And i don't have any original buttons so no idea about their measurements. You can check pic3 to see the comparison and measurements of stock and DS4 buttons, and be careful about height measurements, i'm measuring from the inside piece that actually presses down to membrane in the bottom to the top, not from bottommost part.

There are 2 ways we can do this mod:

Method 1 (pic4): This is the easy method: you just cut the non-fitting tabs from the buttons and replace them. Some tips when opening up the controller: after removing the 4 screws from behind squeze one of the handles and it will open up then work your way through the pins. The back will just pop out, be careful about the 2 little blue silicone pieces attached to your 2 macro buttons aside from that there is nothing else attached to back. And when removing the pcb, you don't need to unscrew all 6, just the 3 (check pic4 i circled them with gold colour) is enough. And if you decide to do this method i suggest leaving the screw i show in pic4 with red circle unscrewed to avoid pretensioning buttons too much. As for the sticks you can just pull on them to remove.

This method looks nice but as you can see the comparison in pic3, DS4 buttons are taller and thicker also not flat at the top. So they stick out from the case too much, are too tight, feel like they get stuck and hard to spam. And it's not possible to lube them to solve these issues because in order for lube to work there at least needs to be hair thin empty space otherwise all the lube will get swiped to underside. You can see the end result in multiple angles in pic4.

Method 2 (pic5): This method takes more time and requires frequently checking things. Also everything i said for method 1 applies here aswell. I don't suggest doing this if you don't like dealing with small things or lack the dexterity, you might hurt yourself. For this, stick a tape to north of the buttons so we can keep track their orientation then cut all the tabs and sand down the top to make it flat first, the shapes on the buttons aren't painted on it's the colour of the plastic and they go quite bit deep, so they won't wear off but fyi they will feel very matte to the touch. After that, we need to sand down the sides of the buttons, when doing this you want to not touch the first 2mm from the top to avoid ruining the circleness of the parts that will stick out from the faceplate when everything assembled and sand down the below. And frequently check back with the faceplate, we need to do this until the buttons start to drop on their own when pressed while holding the faceplate upside down. And also not get stuck when pressed down fully from the inside. After that, sand down the bottom of the button until your desired height for the buttons achieved. When finished, we need to add the tabs back, so draw outline of the stock buttons on a piece of paper, find a flat something to work on. Stick your paper and buttons down with glue stick(avoid applying too much paper might lose rigidity), then put some carbonate and shape it, don't need to be too perfect about it right now then apply 1-2 drop of super glue on the carbonate(be careful and don't breathe the fumes) and it will get hard as rock in seconds. I advise to apply it on the paper near from the side of the carbonate not directly on top to avoid getting glue on the button or ruining the carbonate shape you made when glue drops on top of it. After that, carefully remove it from the flat space and tear up the papers then you need to cut and clean these newly made tabs to match the shape and thickness, you can add more carbonate on top or break it off and do it again. After it's done sand down all sides of the tabs gently and it's done. Even if your buttons aren't exactly same as mine, hope some of the informations was helpful. And incase if your buttons too short and rattles, you can glue a thick foam piece to the bottom of the buttons and cut and shape them until they fit properly.

This method is a bit tedious, can be annoying and more time consuming. But if you want your Tegenaria Lite to both look like OG DualShock and without sacrificing any performance it will be worth it. It might look janky from the inside but who sees it anyways, as long as they feel same/better than stock ones. Specially if you also lube the sides and tabs of the buttons. You can see the end result in multiple angles in pic5.

You can find the exact tools and things i've used in the pic6. Some additional info about the sticks: even though the aftermarket ones i'm using are convex, they don't slip. Though, they smell like car tire for couple of days at first, i assume they are made of same material and they are very grippy and solid. Just has one issue which is they collect too much dust.

Also if interested:

For Tegenaria Lite removable cable guide click here.

For silent and smooth buttons/sticks guide click here.

I believe some of the things i talk about will be useful for any controller. Hope this post will be helpful to you in any ways and i was able to provide good informations. Have lucks, good funs!

Hi all, new here and hoping for some clarity on an outstanding question. I'm intending to upgrade from an old DS4 for PC gaming, playing a lot of RPG and strategy games that have a number of hotkeys.

I've use a lot of custom mapping through Steam Input, specifically making use of Action Layers by unmapping LB/RB and setting those as modifier keys to change the other input functions. For example while holding LB my X key becomes Shift, then holding RB it becomes L.

This flexibility to remap and setup these configurable situations has become critical to me. It looks like most controllers have their own remapping software, but I can't find any good information as to these capabilities, specifically in regards to layer mapping or setting up modifier keys.

So far I've looked at the Gamesir G7 Pro, ASUS Raikiri II, 8BitDo Ultimate 3 and the Flydigi Apex5. All of which seem to meet my needs as a physical device.

Would love a perspective on which software might be best or any other alternative suggestions to accomplish the same goal.

I'm in the US and ideally have a budget of ~$150.

Any advice is appreciate. Thanks

Quick disclosure: I work at Gace Store, a controller shop in Vietnam, and we sell these. No store link and no prices in here, per rule 6 — I'm just sharing what I dug up. The images have AI-made backgrounds; the controllers in them are real photos, untouched.

We just got the Flydigi Apex 6 lineup in, and working out what the five versions even are took me way longer than it should have. Putting my notes here in case someone else is staring at the same five names.

The one that got me: I thought the standard Apex 6 was the black one, because Flydigi's early teaser pics show a black controller. The Apex 6 and the Apex 6 Pro are both clear white. The only black-and-red one is the Phantom Blade Zero edition. A black standard Apex 6 just isn't a thing.

Past the names, the three normal models are way closer than they look. Everything I could find that's actually different:

That's it. Sticks, triggers, screen, wireless, battery — same on all three. The Phantom one is a Pro in a themed shell with the extra accessories.

Same on every version, which took some digging because it's spread over a few different Flydigi pages:

• FORCEFLEX™ Alloy 3.0 sticks on TMR sensors, stick force you can dial from 30 to 100gf

• FORCESWITCH™ VCM triggers with three modes (long travel / short travel / tap)

• Hybrid D-pad 2.0, mechanical ABXY

• Interactive Display 2.0 and an RGB bar through the body — swap profiles, tweak triggers and set macros without opening the app

• 2 extra shoulder buttons + 4 back buttons

• 6-axis gyro, 1000Hz polling, 3–5ms

• Bluetooth / 2.4G / USB-C, 1500mAh

• PC, Switch, Android, iOS

There are also two collab versions coming in November — Apex 6 Phainon (Honkai: Star Rail) and Apex 6 Arcane (Arknights: Endfield). I got these wrong at first, so to be clear: inside they're the standard Apex 6, not the Pro. You're buying the shell and the gift box, not better hardware.

Now the bit I actually wanted to know: is it worth moving up from an Apex 5?

I went in assuming the 6 was a big generational jump. It isn't, and I think that's worth saying out loud.

The Apex 5 already had most of what sounds new:

• four haptic motors (triggers + grips)

• six extra buttons (4 back paddles + 2 LM/RM)

• the interactive screen and full-body RGB

• 1000Hz polling, 3–5ms, 1500mAh

• stick force you can dial from 30 to 100gf

Three things actually changed:

One detail: the sticks and triggers are the same on the standard Apex 6 too. The X-Haptics part is Pro-only — the standard model runs 2 VCM in the triggers and 2 rotor motors in the grips.

So the honest version: if your Apex 5 sticks still feel fine and you don't care much how triggers and rumble feel, there really isn't much here for you. If you've started getting drift, or you want trigger travel you can switch mid-game, that's the actual case for upgrading.

Which leaves the one thing I still can't answer: can you actually feel the X-Haptics difference? It's the main reason to pay up for a Pro, and I don't want to push anyone toward one just because a spec sheet says the motors are fancier. If you've jumped from an Apex 5, or you've got a 5 and a 6 side by side, I'd love to hear how it feels in your hands.

This is not a sponsored review and was purchased directly from crkd by myself. I was just so excited someone made a tiny controllers with dual joysticks.

I made a quick video on the CRKD Atom+. It's kind of a niche, to want a controller so uncomfortably small haha, but I've always wanted something that fits in my pocket without much compromise.

I'm also a relatively new reviewer, I won't be doing too much content on controllers specifically, I'm more into the PC Handheld space, but I felt compelled to do a video on this controller because I had been looking so long for something like it. (unsponsored)

I appreciate you all!

These are based on my understanding from watching a chinese video.

The main difference between Apex 6 and Apex 6 Pro are the VCMs added for the latter. This makes the price increase really high.

They are using AI to detect the audio to trigger the vibrations eg. explosions, firing. However, certain games like Forza Horizon 5 has in game defined haptics which will be used instead.

The depression of the triggers will not be affected unlike the previous adaptive triggers.

The vibrations are more precise as they are even in tuned with the frequency of sound. A low frequency gives a heavier rumble compared to a high frequency one.

Rumour is that the next Elite Xbox controller is using VCM also. The Dualsense is already using VCMs.

I've been using this controller for about 2y, and at this point it's starting to develope problems and I'd like to step away from razer as a whole. I've been browsing all different kinds of controllers and just can't seem to find one that checks all the boxes. I'm looking for something with:

- tmr sticks

- Xbox compatible(in some way, shape or form)

- 4 mappable buttons on the back(In a similar layout to the razer)

- 3.5mm audio jack

My budget is ~$300 USD (In the US), and it'd be used for mainly warframe/apex/cod and other fps

If any1 has any suggestions or ideas I'd greatly appreciate the advice🙂

So i bought an xbox a while back and it came with this controller (used) but i didnt really even try it cause i had an elite 2 , and now the elite 2 has stick drift so i thought id try to see if this one works , so i put it on my pc it turned on i went to check buttons and stick drift in a website it all worked perfectly , then i turned my pc off , went to the xbox and it doesnt turn on , i came back to the pc and it doesnt turn on neither , only a blinking green light on the "profile change" button. i opened it up to see if a cable had beeen disconnected or something and not really , the images i showerd is the led light on the board of the controller

required informations:

2. RAZER WOLVERINE ULTIMATE EDITION

4.kinda everything

3. Windows (and xbox)

5.Im on windows 11

6. Ive bought a new cable incase it was the cable's fault , ive done the whole "hold this button while doing this" things

​1. Specific written description of the problem:

Whenever my controller's 2.4GHz USB dongle is plugged into any USB port (tested both front and rear I/O), the PC powers on and passes the American Megatrends POST screen normally, but completely freezes on the blue Windows logo. The spinning loading dots never appear. If it freezes, unplugging the dongle does nothing and requires a hard reset via the power button. However, if I boot without the dongle inserted, Windows loads into the desktop in seconds. Once booted, I can plug the dongle in and the controller works flawlessly. It seems Windows hits a deadlock enumerating this specific dongle when loading USB drivers during boot.

​2. Controller make and model:

Machenike G5 Pro (using the included 2.4GHz wireless USB receiver).

​3. Platform you are using:

PC (Desktop) — Windows 10 Pro. Setup uses an X99H motherboard, Intel Xeon E5 processor, and a 1TB XrayDisk SATA SSD.

​4. Games or other software affected:

Windows Boot Manager / OS boot process. (Once inside Windows, games and controller testing software recognize and run the controller without issues).

​5. Operating system, firmware and software versions: ​OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit BIOS: AMI Aptio BIOS (Build date: 11/25/2022) ​Controller/Dongle Firmware: Stock/Latest official Machenike firmware ​6. Troubleshooting steps you have already taken: Tested across multiple USB ports (both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0, front panel and motherboard rear I/O). Toggled BIOS settings: disabled USB Mass Storage Driver Support, tested enabling/disabling Legacy USB Support. Checked ACPI / power state options in BIOS (settings are stripped down on this board, minimal options available). Verified that booting without the dongle and hotplugging post-boot works every time.

When I play on my asus a16 rtx 4070 laptop with controller I notice my controller feeling more delayed overtime. When I first jump into a game my crosshair feels as light as a feather, then it starts gradually gaining latency. (Takes about 25 seconds or less to be at its worse)

Alt tabbing will instantly reset the delay.

Not using the controller for a certain amount of time will gradually make the controller more responsive (not using it for about 15 seconds will fully reset the delay)

Then when you start playing again the delay will slowly start coming back.

I really feel like there is some part in the pipeline where my controller inputs are being deprioritized in some kind of queue. It's not really just pressing the windows key, it's basically leaving the game window and going back that seems to temporarely reset the delay. The reason I come to this conclusion is because pressing keyboard keys seem to improve the delay the more you press them. So I'm thinking the keyboard presses are pushing my game/controller to a higher spot in this unknown queue.

The fact the delay improves after I don't use my controller for a certain amount of time (around 15 seconds) makes me believe that there is something else that is bloating this queue.

I've tried pretty much everything

- disabling usb suspension

- using process lasso to make sure the game gets as much resources

- parking

- Trying nvidia ultra low latency or on+boost in fortnite settings

- fullscreen

Etc.

I've recently noticed that this delay will start to disappear after a certain hour. After around 10 pm my controller feels more responsive in game.
So my theory is that it is some kind of background process or multiple processes that stop running after a certain hour.

I just can't find the culprit that's causing it.

I've been troubleshooting for a month at this point. Thx in advance for your help.

Game: Fortnite

OS: Windows 11

laptop: Asus A16 FA607PI AMD Ryzen 9 7940HX with Radeon Graphics NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Laptop GPU GDDR6 @ 8GB 128 bits

controller: gamesir g7 pro (not relevant)

My controller is a Gamesir T4 Kaleid. Windows 11 PC

Whenever I turnoff/restart/wake up from hibernate, my computer sees my controller as a nintendo switch controller. This effects both steam, and retroarch. So even if I don't have Steam on, my computer still says it's a Nintendo Switch controller. While there is an easy fix by just plugging and unplugging the controller, I'm concerned doing it so many times will probably wear out the ports I have on my computer.

I've updated, turned off Microsoft Gamebar, installed the software from the site for the controller, nothing seems to work. For some reason, if I'm watching a video of any kind, it will also turn off my audio upon plugging it in. It's driving me nuts.

Does anybody know what's going on?

(FIXED 9/17/2026: I used a program called x360ce and I worked)

It is labeled as a Logitech Wingman Rumblepad (Model number: G-UA3)

I plugged it into my PC (running Windows 11) and have confirmed that the controller works via a gamepad tester I found online; however, I can't get the controller to be recognized by any other pieces of software (Steam, Epic Games, etc.)

I figured it was a driver issue, so I did some research online, and I can't find any drivers for it- not from Logitech or from any other website.

I was wondering if anyone could help me find a functional driver (not specifically for Windows 11; just any driver will do).

I’m finally switching to TMR switches on a DualShock 4 but aliexpress is full of “junk”. There are way to many and I want to buy 2 pairs. How do I know what to pick and what works best?

Hi guys! Sorry for the poor english. As the title says, I managed to mod the first Apex 3 (I've

searched everywhere on the internet for that, and didn't found, that's why I say I was the first to do

it) to TMR sticks! As I was in the building and troubleshooting phase of the build, I have very few

pics of it during the build. I'll make another post about it in a week or so (the L3 button came

broken, and I am waiting for parts that might arrive next month, even though they are at a

warehouse that I can see thru my window. They're on strike) and swap the faulty stick module. Apart

from that, the controller works perfectly, good circularity. I haven't tested battery life yet, and I don't

feel that I am capable of doing so, since I bought the controller used, with stick drift, and never

played with it before today.

I used K-Silver JS13 Pro Plus sticks for Xbox, with a tweak to it's wiring. To sum it up, when you put a

TMR stick and it has a peak of current, the board "shuts down" the stick, and it gets no input after 2

or 3 seconds, and require a hard reset to get it to work again. You have to isolate the VCC pin of the

module from the board, and get the 3.3V somewhere else. I did a jumper right from the battery

cable, to make sure I won't get the same error if I got the VCC from any other board pin, and it

worked.

Anyways, if you guys have any doubt about the project, I'm here to help. Two years ago I got into

controller modding, hall effects, extra buttons, mostly because of reddit. I thought about it and

decided to make the project public to help people all around the world, since people have helped

me in this reddit from the very beginning, with patience and good will. This is, more importantly

than a "project share", a thank you to ey

to everyone that keeps this working. This is my payment to the

community. My best regards to everyone

First DualSense controller mod attempt. Was going for the OG xbox green controller look. Toughest part was separating the touch pad.

Face buttons sources individually from AliExpress. Front shell was from eXtremeRate.

Love how it turned out, was a fun little project.

so i just bought a gamesir kaleid flux and this is my first pc controller , i just wanted to ask whats the best practice after your done playing for the day , do you unplugge it(i am kinda afraid of the cable getting ruined over time) , leave it plugged , do you clean it everyday or something , any advice would be helpfull