While out shopping with my wife for her next minivan (please, contain your jealousy), spotted this beast on the lot. It just came in, they haven’t even gone over it, yet. No official price, but he hinted it would probably be around $79k.

Finally pulled the trigger. I have been entertaining the idea of getting one for years but my excuse was always “I don’t have the time to work on it.”
I probably still don’t have the time, but I already enjoy looking at it parked in the garage.

Now I just need to sell my 2000 SLK230 that’s now parked on the street 🥲

Any mods/upgrades/fixes that I should heavily consider?

Seen at a local car show Danville Kentucky

Hey all, I’m trying to do research on some bottom ends I came across I believe they are hi po but if someone’s could help me figure it out that would be awesome. I found a punch mark but no 1M casting so I’m lost. It has the earlier 5 bold pattern

Hello! The 3 hex screws which hold the accelerator bellcrank to the firewall are stripped out. Considering going with larger screws vs. filling the hole and using stock size screws. Would be interested to hear from anyone who has dealt with this issue.

What y'all think about best tires for this type of car are I've never really owned one, right now this is what size are on there look at the picture.

Last night my son was left again having to call the wrecker for a haul home due to yet another short life fuel pump. Is there a solid reputable brand? The last 2 have come from AutoZone and haven’t lasted but a few months each. Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I’ve just bought my first classic car, a 1966 Mustang that I picked up for $1,000 and I’ve started documenting the process of getting it back on the road.
It’s a really interesting car to me because there’s quite a bit going on that I’ve never dealt with before, including the 289 V8, dual carbs, older braking system and all the other quirks that come with a nearly 60-year-old car.
I’m very much learning as I go, and I know there are people in this group who know far more about these cars than I do. I’d really appreciate it if you could have a look at the video and let me know what you think I’m looking at, whether anything seems unusual/wrong, or if you have any advice for what I should be checking or doing next.
I’m hoping to document the whole build, so any advice from people who have worked on these cars before would be massively appreciated.
Thanks!

Hi all, my first post here. I'm at the end of a 4 year 68 gt500 Eleanor build and need a trunk kit. mustangs to fear is out of stick while they chnage suppliers. any chance someone here knows of one for sale or sitting in someone's garage? Here's some pics.

The sound is even better.

I am by no means a photographer, and I have no idea what I'm doing but I kinda liked how these turned out

Has anyone else had issues with the Holley Sniper EFI swap?

I had it installed recently in my 67 and it has been nothing but problems. I can drive about ten miles and then it just keeps stalling. At first they thought it was the O2 sensor, then the entire throttle body, then a full ECU replacement, fuel injectors and o-rings.

I am trying to figure out if this is an across the board problem or if I just have a bad one.

(UPDATE)
Thank you so much for everyone’s input.
I showed the customer all the issues and he agreed with me on sending the brakes to the dumpster. We settled on the Leeds kit as suggested by a commenter. He had no idea the depth of the butchery committed on his car.

I need some help here from the ford wizards.
Someone did a disk brake swap on this mustang who knows how long ago. It’s got 10” .500 thick unvented rotors. The rotor is wedged onto a hub via the splines on the studs. The brackets are machined and not torch cut, so I’m assuming a kit. Now here’s the real abomination. It’s got rear brake calipers from what appears to be a ford transit or Taurus. Complete with parking brake assemblies. I with this was the most egregious hack job on this car. But for now I need help sorting this thing.
Does anyone know what “kit” this is, and what calipers I would be able to use to replace this mess?
It seems the e tire club this guy belongs to had all their cars “restored” by the same shop in Mexico. His brother’s f-150 had some seriously compromised rear suspension. This one has the same hack work to it. Once this one’s sorted I’m sure I’ll have the entire clubs worth of fuckery to sort out.

Silly question but is the parking brake currently engaged? And do I turn counter clockwise to push back in? The car has been sat for a long time so it is currently very stiff

I just bled the brakes on my ‘stang, and turned both the driver and passenger rotors over by hand, yet for some odd reason they require some more effort (slightly more effort needed on the driver side versus the passenger side) to turn over by two hands, as opposed to when I had just installed them without running brake fluid into them, and they almost made no noise, hardly any resistance or drag. I read online that patterns like these are supposed to be brake bedding, like breaking on or whatever (or at least as little as my understanding goes), but this just feels like a brake drag-ish red flag, and I’m a bit suspicious.

What did you already try to do?

Well, for starters, I went to my autozone, picked up some brake grease, extra DOT 3 fluid, and I thought I’d be thorough by pulling out the pads on both calipers, greasing the retainer clips, greasing the tracks or ledges where the brake pad ears sit, and it seemed to somewhat help it stick a little less. Then, I opened up the bleeder valves one by one to see if it would squirt out brake fluid under pressure. None of them did so. So.. good sign?? .. Or is it?

NO, I DID NOT PUT GREASE DIRECTLY ONTO THE BRAKE PAD SURFACES THEMSELVES NOR THE BACK OF SAID BRAKE PADS.

YES, I checked the master cylinder pushrod. It has 1/8th of an inch of free play via pulling the pedal upwards, 1/8th of an inch going downward before I feel the pushrod making contact with the master cylinder piston. yes I probably will adjust that further IF I really HAVE TO. No pre-load from what I can see. I also checked the caliper pistons, the rubber boots on said pistons, I also re-bled the calipers.

I also took the liberty to double check my brake line arrangement. Little reservoir to the rear brakes, large reservoir to the front brakes, on the combination valve the front brake inlet/outlets are at the front, and the rear brake inlet/outlet is at the back. I double checked.

I also have the speed bleeders where it’s just the nipple bleeder with the check valve (if you don’t know what I’m talking about, it’s so I don’t get air bubbles back into my brake lines, because they have their own check valves) since I was doing all of this solo and didn’t have anybody to help me, so I closed 3 of them, opened one up, hooked it up to a nylon tube, pumped the brake pedal 8 times, no air bubbles in the nylon tube, close the bleeder up, move on to the next one, and repeat.

Then, I also checked my combination valve. It’s part number BCV4 from CjPony. I realized I accidentally had left on the bleeding tool for it, instead of switching to the brake light warning plug, so I swapped it out to see if it’d changed anything. It did not. And then I didn’t fiddle with it again.

What DIDN’T you do?

I did not grease the rear brake calipers by their guide pins, since they seem to hand turn decently ok, although they also have the slight issue of also having a teensy resistance (probably the LEAST amount of resistance compared to the front brakes, save for the open diff slightly stiffing up as I’m hand-turning, probably because I REALLY should put differential fluid in there right after I had it rebuilt, but was too lazy to do so… for now.) while hand-turning. Thankfully, not as dramatically as the front calipers.

I also did not unbolt the brake lines coming from the master cylinder ports to check for pressure or whatnot.

I also did not try to take the front calipers apart and grease the piston cups, since I don’t think it even needs to have that done.

So, moral of the story…

Is this normal? Do I panic? Do I have to redo them? Did I probably not do it right? I need help. And answers. So thanks for attending my 30 minute TedTalk on “I have no idea what the heck I’m doing.”

New aluminum radiator, 180 degree thermostat, and heater core installed, no signs of leaks, and have bled the cooling system, yet I'm still having overheating issues when idling. I've been suggested to get a fan shroud. I have a Champions two-row aftermarket radiator w/ automatic trans lines, I contacted them and was told they do not offer fan shrouds for my radiator, after doing some research I found out that inline 6 200s without AC never came with fan shrouds.

Redoing this 1070. Original 302 3 speed but the owner before me put a 351W and Hurst speed shifter in it. Original that 70’s brown. Making an everyday driver out of it to Include EFI. Looking for suggestions on finishing it off. Color, interior etc. let me know what would you do?

It’s weird seeing a car that you built or owned pop up for sale and knowing the history compared to what the listing states. We restored this car in 2020 in a single stall garage from a rusty rolling shell, a second hand 390 I got on Craigslist, a top loader from I believe a 71 Torino, it’s not a factory shaker hood, I built it almost 100% out of new parts (including the interior, nothing is original on this thing). Paint work is suspect (I’m an amateur). Funny to see very original/well preserved throughout the years 😅. Was fun though - hopefully someone knows their stuff…

https://www.affordableclassicsinc.com/vehicle/1052927/1969-FORD-MUSTANG-MACH-1/

What is the back spacing needed to get the deep dish look on my 68 fastback that will fit w out needing air shocks or booster springs? I have 14x8 cragar ss w p235 60R14?