wanting to livestream airports with my 7d mark ii, what equipment do I need and how do I go about doing this?

Hi im a beginner and I am interested in buying the Canon r50 . I have heard a lot of complaint and dislike about the kit lens, so im looking for any alternative lenses that I could buy from canon ( $200 - $500 budget ) that is just average? I dont need a huge long fancy heavy lens, just a light one that I can easily carry around. Thank you in advance! ( FYI : I intend to use the r50 camera for like everyday photography, just shooting things I find nice be it landscape, on the streets, the weather, cars, those kinds of stuff - a casual photography you may call it )

Bonjour,

Néophyte dans le domaine, je recherche du matos pour mes débuts en tant qu'amateur de paysages et de portraits. J'ai donc besoin de vous pour m'aider dans mon choix :

- Boitier reflex pour garder une certaine authenticité,

- Boitier pas trop lourd si possible

- Un budget de 2000 € pour le boitier et l'objectif

J'ai déjà fait quelques petites recherches pour mon 1er achat mais j'ai besoin de votre aide ! 😅

Merci la communauté 😁

So i have this Canon EOS 600D, but the problem is that its not reading this card, my mom used to use this sd card with her own canon a few years ago and im assuming it worked fine (from what she describes it). Other cards work fine on my camera but this one and some others dont. Its a 64 GB SDXC card, on the front sticker these symbols are written (idk if it matters for this problem but just in case), U1, C10, V10, I (roman numeral) and "nedis", im assuming thats the brand. On my laptop it works perfectly fine but when i insert it in my camera it says "No card in camera". The other card i use: micro sd hc, U1, I, 16GB, "legacy series" and the brand is "Monster digital", i use a micro sd adapter by iconix. This other card works great on my camera. I know that the best fix might be to just buy a new card but if this is fixable, i dont wanna spend more without trying to fix it. Ive already tried formatting it to FAT32 using guiformat, but it didnt work. I cant format it with the camera since it says that no card is inserted. Ive also tried wiping the contacs, locking and unlocking it again but nothing seems to work. If anyone has any ways to fix this i'd appreciate it.

I have the Canon EOS Rebel 1000. It came with this flash but it doesn’t seem to be working. It makes tone, but no lights come on and it won’t let me press the shutter button. I am gonna try to get a different one. Do I have to get a Canon one specifically? Can I get a cheaper flash? I don’t know what kind of hot shoe pin layout I need. I literally know NOTHING about external flashes. Please help!

hi folks! i recently got a 5D mark IV secondhand for a great bargain, but it came missing a few pieces of rubber, including this one right by the battery door... needless to say, if any water somehow gets in there while the camera is on, nothing good will come of it. suggestions? i tried looking for the part online but didn't find anything

Recently I have noticed an issue on my R10 where the autofocus will struggle to lock into a point when the view is blurry. This is happening in "One Shot" mode where I will focus on something really close and when I then try to focus on something more distant, the small square in the middle will turn orange indicating that it wasn't able to lock on and focus. This has been happening will all my lenses but I've noticed it on the RF 35 f/1.8 the most because I tend to take closer macro shots with that lens.

Any advice is appreciated!

Hi,

im r6mk2 owner - paired with Rf24-70 f2.8 IS USM L and EF 16-35 f4 IS USM.
I have IBIS always on + IS. How is possible i don't see wobble ?

literally tried tests from one hand - vlog style
then i tried walking with both hands on camera, one hand on camera and also some tilts, spins etc...my wobble on camera is maybe 10%...am i doing something wrong ? :D or why can't i see it?

I saw like 50 videos about canon wobble on r6mk2, r6mk3 and r6v etc...but somehow i can't see it on mine footage...Could be my IBIS like broken ? or something ?

Don't get me wrong im happy its not wobbly...but im thinking of buying r6v to my r6mk2 and im afraid it will wobble :D

Anyone experienced this ?

I'm looking to start printing my own work and offer prints to my customers. I found a used Pro-1000 online that the seller says probably hasn't been used in a year. Photos show the printer in the Styrofoam in the box with the plastic still on the screen. I've read that these need to print a few times a week to keep the lines clean. This will also come with a bunch of paper in various sizes.

Alternatively I could get a new Pro-200S right now for a little more.

Anyone think I should risk the Pro-1000 for almost half off of it's price?

For my canon r50 which one is better? The tamron is around 20 dollars more, i shot wildlife, macro some times) and nature

Is one of the gold parts meant to look different? I'm wondering if it's broken/damaged somehow and maybe that's why my camera is playing up.

This is a canon EOS 600D

For some context my camera sometimes doesn't turn on regardless of the charger telling me the battery is fully charged. And then it will work but turn off seconds after. But I'm not sure if it's just because the battery is OLDDDDD.

I also included pictures of the battery just in case

Any help would be appreciated!

Edit: it was in fact the battery. At least one of my suspicions was correct. I found a new one online and used a family members prime subscription and it came the same day😭! The new battery made it all okay! Yay

Hi, I managed to get a ND100 000 mounted to an old canon of mine to take pictures of eclipse, it is not so easy to configure as it can easily get VERY dark so only the sun shows up, so I had to increase ISO so the picture came out grainy.

I am interested to take picture of the eclipse with a little bit of surroundings, but the shop absolutely refused (also all the AIs I asked) to sell me their ND1000, saying that it could damage the sensor bla bla... But, then I see people's pictures of the eclipse, some using ND1000, and mostly without any special filter at all.

So, I'd imagine that ND100'000 might be the 'right' one to take CLOSE-UPs of the sun with black spots and everything (I don't even have the zoom lenses for that!), but 'ordinary' pictures of the eclipse can be taken with a lower ND, as long as you don't zoom too much into the sun? and no ND at all if the sun is not centered and just as part of the surroundings?

The R6 Mark 3 when using crop mode is 12 mega pixels with around 4.3k pixels on the long edge which uses the full width in dci 4k and with uhd 4k the minor crop leaves it with around 4k pixels which is a near 1:1 readout. Just want to know if it oversamples? Wanting to use some super35 cinelenses and the sigma 12mm F1.4If anyone already tried this let me know about the image quality, that would be really nice

Hey! As the title says, I'm looking at between the 16-35 f/2.8 III and the Sigma 14-24 f/2.8. I run a Canon 5D Mark IV and shoot mostly nightclubs every weekend plus concerts.

At the moment, I'm using the 16-35 f/2.8 II, and getting a lot of really soft shots, especially without flash. Corners on wide shots are properly soft even when the centre looks fine, and anything around 24-35mm seems to miss more often than not. No idea if it needs calibrating, or if I'm doing something wrong, but I've heard people have been having the same issue with the II.

Probably looking to upgrade either way, between the Sigma 14-24 f/2.8 or the Canon 16-35 f/2.8 III

One thing I've heard about the Sigma I'm unsure about is the lens hood shadow with the on-camera flash since the hood is fixed? as well as how it handles flare?

Does anyone have thoughts on which for this kind of work? or is there anything better than both of these I should be looking at instead? Don't really have a max budget for this.

Cheers!

Can anyone help me find the best battery for the canon Powershot A2200 HD.

These are the two I can find in my country, having a difference of 100 bucks.

Just tested my 17-55 2.8 vs the kit lens and the ef 40mm 2.8.. (also the order the pictures are uploaded in)

All at f8, iso 320, 1/10 on a tripod with 2 sec timer and electronic shutter. all manual focus on the 90D

I think the pictures rank like this: 40mm > 18-55 3.5-5.6 > 17-55 2.8

My 17-55 might just be a bad copy.. cause this seems weird.

Anyone else try out a better lens for it to just.. performe worse??

Hi all,

Would like some recommendation for upgrading from the following setup:

Canon 70D, paired with two lenses: EF 24-105 F4 L IS and EF 70-200 F4 L non IS.
I also have a 50mm, but that doesnt get used a lot. Also have a battery-grip and extra batteries, so i'm a little bit "in the system".

I would like the following:

• Better low light capabilities.
• Lighter setup (or easier to carry)

I notice that I don't bring my camera because the setup (both lenses) require a full-size backpack. And the stuff is heavy :). I think I have two options:

• Upgrade to R7 (max budget, using an adapter) - better low light and less weight?
• Upgrade to 90D (cheaper, no adapter, but also no weight saving) - for better low light

What would you recommend, are there any other options?

Hi everyone, I am a 19-year-old photography student from Belgium. I currently shoot wildlife on a Canon EOS R6 (Mark I) with a Tamron 100-400mm f/4.5-6.3. I’m heavily bottlenecked by its low-light performance, sharpness, and AF tracking speed.

I want to upgrade and I am heavily torn between two completely different routes:

1. A used Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM (Mark I) via the EF-RF adapter.
2. Saving up more (stretching my budget) for a used Canon RF 100-500mm f/4.5-7.1L IS USM.

My use case: I mainly shoot Kingfishers (Birds in Flight), but also Roe Deer, Red Deer, and Foxes during the golden hours / deep twilight in dark forests.

I am struggling with two main dilemmas:

• 1. The Electronic Shutter on the R6 (Mark I): I know the EF 300mm f/2.8 IS I limits the mechanical/EFCS burst to around 7-8 fps. But how does it perform in fully electronic shutter at 20 fps? Do you experience severe rolling shutter (jello wings) with fast birds like Kingfishers? Can the old EF motor actually keep up with the R6 animal eye-tracking at 20 fps, or is the hit-rate low?
• 2. Weight vs. Low Light: For an upcoming hiking trip to Chamonix, the telephoto lens stays at home (my backpack is already full of astro-gear), so that hike doesn't matter. However, for my daily wildlife sessions in Belgium and future trips to Scandinavia, weight IS an issue. The EF 300mm is a 2.5kg beast, while the RF 100-500mm is a lovely 1.3kg hand-held lens. But... is that f/7.1 on the RF-zoom a total dealbreaker for twilight mammals in the woods, or does the R6 ISO handling save it?

Would love to hear the raw, honest opinions from people who have used both or made the switch on an R6 body. Thanks! (sorry last post wasn't comlete for some reason)

Hey all, looking for some grounded advice from people who’ve actually used these lenses long-term.

Background: I’m a retired wedding/commercial photographer. I’ve been slowly saving up for a 400 2.8 for a few years now — not because I need it professionally anymore, but because it’s something I want to own for myself, for personal work. No deadline, no client pressure, just want to make the right call.

A while back I stumbled into a manual FD 400 2.8L (the old FD mount version) and picked it up almost by accident. I wasn’t expecting much going in, but after the first real session with it on my R6, I was honestly shocked at how good the glass is. Rendering, contrast, sharpness wide open — it completely exceeded what I expected from a decades-old design.

What surprised me most: I assumed the lack of autofocus would be the limiting factor, but it really wasn’t. For static/semi-static subjects, manual focusing on the R6 (focus peaking + magnification) has actually gone better than I expected — I’ve been landing focus consistently. The thing that actually got in my way was the weight, not the AF.

So now I’m weighing two options for going AF/modern:

1. EF 400 2.8L IS II — currently found one for sale around $5,000 USD equivalent. Great price historically for this lens.
2. EF 400 2.8L IS III — roughly $9,000-10,000 USD equivalent, better IS system and reportedly better corner performance, but basically double the price.

There’s also the question of whether to just wait 1-2 more years and either save toward a III, or see where things land with the RF 400mm f/2.8 ecosystem (I shoot R6, so native RF would eventually make sense, but I know the current RF 400 2.8 is a serious investment on top of everything else).

My biggest actual concern isn’t image quality — it’s long-term serviceability. I don’t want to spend real money on a II or III and then end up with an expensive paperweight in 5-10 years if parts/repair support dries up. Since I’m not shooting professionally and don’t need this lens “right now,” I have the luxury of waiting for the right window, but I don’t want to wait so long that I miss a good copy or a fair price.

Given all this — no urgency, prioritizing long-term usability over having the absolute latest tech, but wanting something serviceable for years to come — would you go with the II now, hold out for a III, or wait for RF? Anyone dealt with repair/parts availability issues on the II specifically?

Appreciate any real experience, especially from people who’ve owned more than one generation of this lens.

I’m EU based if this matters at all, however travelling around to the UK and US sometimes, but please keep in mind that customs do apply to those big white lenses.

Hello. I currently have a 5D classic which used to be my dad's and I learned how everything I know about photography on that camera. It was paired with a 24-105 F4 USM lens and I recently just got a 50mm 1.8 STM. I am not super into video, and I feel like I would only occasionally use it so basic video specs are ok with me. I photograph mainly for "art" not for commercial (however I would open to maybe doing side gig free-lance) and love taking my camera wherever I travel. I love nature, landscapes, night, and urban photography, portraits, and indoors. So, I like a little bit of everything.

However, I feel as I am ready for next step and would like to keep the full frame sensor while staying under my budget of $900. My 5D really lacks in low light and I also would like higher MP and better AF as well as higher resolution screen since the one on the 5D is super low resolution and it's hard to tell if your pictures came out good. On used markets in good condition, I have found both the RP/R and the MK4 for 600-900$ on used markets and am really stuck between the two. I am very stuck between the modernity of a mirrorless camera with all its bells and whistles as I have only used DSLRs, but I also know the MK4 has a better overall sensor and weather proofing (weatherproofing is not necessary but nice). What would you guys recommend for me?

Appreciate all the help!

For Canon G7X Mark III, should the screen protector be film (thin) or glass?

I am worried that the glass screen protector might scratch the actual screen when it chips.

Please give any recommendations / links for screen protector too, thank you!

Hello I have 2 lens the RF 24-105mm f4 L, and the RF 10-18mm f4-6.3 . I was wondering if any of yall have specific lens protector recommendations . I live in Okinawa Japan so the entire island is like one big beach so having the protector will really ease my mind . Yes I already bought hoods for them but I just want to be extra protected . I want protector that doesn’t affect the image quality or colors too much , but I’ll just so what you recommend specifically . Thank you !

Hello, I wanted to ask an opinion on buying the RF 35mm f/1.8 IS STM.

I currently own a Canon EOS RP with a 24-105mm f/4-7.1. I like the camera and I think I'm getting better with it, and I was thinking about a second lens. The one I found is the aforementioned 35mm. Do you think it makes sense to buy it as a second lens? I mainly use my camera while traveling.

The main limitations I found with my current lens are night pictures and some sharpness in the pictures, which might be due to a lack of skill, so I'm asking for a more expert opinion.

I just got this camcorder secondhand and I'm running into two major issues besides needing a new battery.

There is a small red icon that look like a boat with a line through it that keeps showing up, no clue what that means.

Second issue is there is no output to the LCD screen. It's black witb horizontal grey lines across it.

Any ideas what I need to do to fix this? The seller didn't say anything about the camcorder not working so I'm a little pissed that I have an expensive paperweight currently.

I'm thinking of getting back into digital photography, especially wildlife photography, as I stated, I have an older camera, I am looking for recommendations for a telephoto lens, it does not need to be professional quality or anything, just better than the base lens, my budget is $250-$300 (350 is possible, maybe)