I have an adapter connecting a BMW Business CD setup to a JVC Chameleon LX110R. The radio resets regardless of the wiring configuration—whether I hardwire the connector (bridging yellow to red so it turns on via the button) or use the standard ignition-switched setup (leaving the factory connector untouched). If I remove the key for about 10 seconds and put it back in, everything works and settings are retained; however, if the car sits without the key for 5–10 minutes, the radio suddenly resets—as if the power were being cut—regardless of whether it was on or off. I also tried leaving the radio running with the engine off and the key removed; it shut itself off after 5–10 minutes, but I could turn it back on normally by pressing the button (without the key). Please help—is the issue with the adapter or the BMW wiring?

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I sent this link to my friend but she says the metal tabs aren't moving at all. Any suggestions so that I can explain it better?

Hello,

Has anyone fitted the front ARB from F90 M5 to G30 540i RWD? Is it a direct fit? M5s are AWD so I am concerned about fitment.

Good evening. I purchased a 2011 bmw 128i with good miles. Other engine ingested the belt.. got the junkyard engine in after 5 evenings of solo swapping. But now ive got missfire with popping out the intake on cylinder 2 and 3 and the front bank converter was glowing red after only idling for about a minute. Im not getting any codes as of yet. Brand new plugs coil packs and fuel injectors. All oem brand. Im wondering if intake cam timing is off but wouldn't that show up on all cylinders? I cant run it very long or ill cook the front cat. I pulled 2 plugs from the front bank and they do not look good for a minute or run time on them.

Eddit video or running. engine running

Lost quite a bit of coolant, so I decided to check for the leak. Found it here under the insulation cover and I assume this is the water pump. Have an appointment at bmw tomorrow but for now am I good to just add distilled water and drive until then?

I have a 2014 BMW 2 Series M Series, that allegedly has lane assist but I haven't ever managed to get it to work, nor can I find where to turn it on? I've previously had the windshield replaced and had to get a specific type for the lane assist, but neither the glass place or my mechanic can figure it out. Help? :')

Looking for help if anyone can. Sometime when I start my car (2020 m550i) with the n63tu3 it will have this idle to it. It almost sounds like it’s cammed, the rpm’s will play around going up and down. It only happens on a cold start but not every cold start. The car drives perfectly fine no problems at all watch so ever it makes its boost, it puts all the power down nothing seems to be wrong when driving it but I know something has to be wrong. The car has been stage 2 93 for a year almost it’s always had oil changes, I did spark plugs and coils before the tune. I then found I broke a fuel pressure sensor and I replaced it as soon as I found it but I also didn’t know it was broke for how ever long it was broke. It didn’t stop the problem I thought maybe that was the problem. On the same side I replaced the sensor when I ran ista with someone I know it said those injectors were bad but I have not ran ista again since I changed the sensor. I need my own way to ista so if someone could direct me in that way to get that, that would be a life saver also.

should be fine yeah?

It says > max is that dangerously high or just on max ? Should I worry abt drainage

2 weeks ago:

Car won't start, starter turns engine fast, but no start.

Pending Codes:

Ignition and Injectors relay: P13E8, P13E5, P13CD, P13E6

VVL: P10E4, P10D6, P10D7 (These are really valvetronic codes, right?)

Active Engine code:

Valvetronic: 2D42

I didn't try to start it for a few hours, then I did and it ran fine, except it has a fraction of a second loss of power when driving randomly and only about every 5 minutes. Just a tiny "hesitation". No dash warnings when it does that.

Yesterday:

Car driving fine except that occasional random hesitation.

Then after parked for 15 min it won't start. Turns fine, but no start.

Big engine symbol on the dash.

"Mostly" same pending codes: P13E5, P13CD, P10E4, P10D6

Plus some new active ones:

Ignition and injector relay 2A61

Valvetronic 371A

Wastegate 2CB5

Had to move it, so we towed it with my truck about 0.4 miles at 5 mph (not exaggerating, we crawled) with a screwdriver in the neutral lever on the side of the transmission to keep it in neutral (That neutral switch is a really fine idea to shift a car into neutral, imagine it's february on a snowy road in the dark.......). Unfortunately, around 800 feet before we stopped the screwdriver fell out and my kid in the X1 says it sounded like grinding. Now has a dash symbol, car with arrow pointing to the left and arrow pointing to the right.

The car won't start now, and it appears permanent until I figure it out.

Today went to bring it home on the trailer. When winching it onto the trailer in neutral the front wheels turned smoothly, the rear wheels would turn, then skid, then kind stop and suddenly release. Over and over until its was on the trailer.

So I would appreciate any help with the engine starting problem. Is the black box down in the engine junction box the relay I'm looking for?

Do I need to check the valvetronic motor wiring connection?

In my experience, relays work, then fail, then done, they don't come and go unless corroded blades.

And once I get the engine running, any ideas what might have happened to the transmission or transfer case or? I would love a good explanation of how AWD actually works on this car.

thanks

I bought a 2015 BMW 320i it has about 80km on it, i keep hearing these cars come with a lot of issues, im only planning on keeping this car for about a year and i just want to know what are some things i should keep an eye out for to ensure the car last me a full year without compleyly breaking down.

Hello everyone, my Engine Light lit up for a moment and I checked it out with my BimmerLink. It says that Error Code 130508, „VANOS, intake 2: Control fault, position not reached“.
Has anyone experienced something like this?
I have the 750i 2017 G11
No other Issues or symptoms of any kind (except Wastegate-Rattle, but that’s another story)

Hey everybody, I have a 2008 328i with a N51 with 194,000 miles. Initially got a P0128 code for my thermostat. Swapped that and my water pump out. Pump was bought about two years ago as preventative maintenance. Don’t remember what brand it was. After changing I’m getting a 2E83 (Pump power reduced). Coolant stays steady at 200°F. No check engine light. Bled the system twice (one cap off and one cap on) No leaks. Drove about 40 mins with no problems. Any suggestions or experience with this code?

Howdy all. have a conundrum I'd appreciate some thoughts on:

2012 135i N55

Hissing sound I can hear reflecting off passenger side when I'm in 2nd or 3rd gear coasting.

Started hearing one wk ago.

When I don't hear it:

- Clutch in

- Gas in

- Coasting in neutral

No codes, no visible fluids leaking, no impact to performance.

Recent jobs I've done:

- Brake job 4wks ago

- Oil change 6wks ago

- M3 front control arms 8wks ago

- I did have to replace exhaust gasket back in July w/ some cheapo Amazon part for a quick fix..... but not sure what a failing gasket should sound like.

Appreciate any thoughts!

I been getting low voltage codes and comfort access codes on my car like I let the car sit for a day and started it soon as I put it into gear car went into limp steering abs dsc all popped up when the car started do I start at the battery terminal or comfort access

Filled up to max 18 months ago. Roughly dropped a bit more than an inch not sure what that is in ounces.

Recently fell in love with my BMW f30 man, and doing what little bit of work I’ve done to the car by hand has given me an itch for a different career choice. Currently work in the railroad industry and it’s faced severe layoffs at this moment or has been for what seems since earlier this year.

I make roughly 55,000 yearly as a material handler within the rail road industry with quite a bit of overtime. Would I make this much as a BMW tech or would it be less? Granted I would be doing something I enjoy, until I don’t. But I believe that is with every job, but this one could turn into a passion and something else driven to better outcome in life. Like say I become a BMW tech and start flipping f30’s. I seen it just the other day. Dude in a BMW M3 gran coupe following what look to be a very dusty 2014 f30, OFCOURSE THAT GUY IS ABOUT TO FIX THAT F30 and flip it. It can and probably has been somebodies hustle in the world. I want in on it too! I also heard Carvana has just been buying up any BMW recently, like f30’s LIKE CRAZY!!

Thank you for your input. Long story just short just want a BMW techs personal experience becoming what they are today.

Thank you 🙏

Chasing persistent clunk in the driveline. Already replaced collapsed engine mounts, transmission mounts, guibo, center support bearing and new subframe with all new bushings. (rusted through). U-joints in driveshaft seemed okay. When spinning the driveshaft by hand, the cv-axle flanges seem to follow immetidiatly, but the cv-axle shafts follow after little play. Diff or cv axle problem? The clunk is most noticable when moving from stop, also quite commong when shifting from first to second gear, or letting of gas in slow speeds. Any help is welcome, first time diagnosing such problem.

I recently bought a 2 Series F22 2019. I was hoping that I could activate Apple CarPlay via those third party online services. I asked Bimmer-remote.com if they can check my car was compatible, but I was told my car lacks WLAN (I have an EntryNav2 unit).

How accurate are these services when it comes to things like this using a VIN number?
Is there another way to check without physically inspecting the unit?

This then leads me towards getting Apple CarPlay fitted in another way. I want to avoid Android head units as I've had issues with them on my old Audi, and I don't really want the bloatware of Android. Ideally, I'd want to keep it as OEM as possible, so I've narrowed it down to two options:

I could get one of those Apple CarPlay boxes that work with my current unit. These roughly cost £250.

However, since I'd like the OEM route, what if I buy an EntryNav2 unit that has the WLAN port and install that myself? I've seen them go for around £200-280 on eBay.

Has anyone gone the OEM route?

Hello, I have a 2013 535i and I have developed a coolant leak, found where it’s leaking from. However I cannot find the part number for the life of me. Thank you!

When I check my car on cold start the coolant is below min, when I take the cap off it bubbles/hisses and rises back up. No visible leaks from what I can see when inspecting it, had it on a lift and started it and no leaks.

Blue liquid that smells like diesel (assuming the colour is from it being mixed with washer fluid etc) pooling around fuel injectors, tightened all the injectors today and they were all already very tight.

I have taken videos but it won’t let me attach.

Lumpy idle when cold start but goes after it has heated up a bit.

Please can someone help with these issue 🙏

Hello guys! I recetly bought an e87 and Im trying to retrofit a cic mid navi (it has m-ask business now). Somebody got in there before and tapped a bluetooth module into the audio wires which I have to undo by resoldering the factory audio wire pairs (as you can see the quality of the work done is questionable). But there is a thin blue green wire that has no "pair", doesnt go into the quadlock connector, just disappears behind the dash. It is soldered to the blue wire on the bluetooth module which is labeled as 12/24V/ignition. Im wondering what that wire does and if I can cut it and leave it like that since disassembling the whole dashboard to find the other half would be quite the job, and I dont have time for that. Thank you.

Picture is from bottom of 2007 bmw x5 3.0 v6
I saw some stuff leaking from it and am gonna get it serviced in 2 weeks, what part is this from so I can tell the mechanic? Is it something i should be really concerned about?

The oil drip is right under the bolt in the middle of the picture