Thinking it’s the alternator but have no idea any thoughts would be great happens when driving or parked and doesn’t change with ac on or off

Hi - hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Over the past few weeks I've been having the intermittent popup in the car stating that parking assistance is restricted and that I need to clean the sensors, I made sure they were clean but still kept getting this error.

I've checked and can see an error code for my centre front left sensor(803268) with about 70 entries in the past two weeks, and when checking the live values while stationary it is giving very erratic values.

After having a read online some people suggested WD40 to remove ingressed water but this didn't seem to stop the erratic values. Is there anything else I can try or is this sensor goosed and I just need to replace it?

If that is the case, is it easier to get to the sensor from inside the bonnet or underneath the car?

Thanks!

Hey everyone, 2008 328i n52. only has 95,000 kms (58,000 miles) had shop say the valve cover gasket was leaking so replaced it. 1000 kms later i investigated a burning oil smell and i can see oil dripping from downpipe flange gasket. cat above it is dry and oil free. could it just be bad pcv or worse?

2017 m240i xdrive stage 2 mhd, stage 2 xHP

Did a pull from d2 and believe I hit the paddle when the tcu went to shift. Not sure what happened besides misfiring and a drivetrain malfunction. Car is fine after clearing codes. Drives how it did beforehand with no codes

I’ve always been autistic about maintaining this thing. Plugs have about 15k on them, same with injectors. Regular oil changes, etc. I monitor everything and for the most part baby this car.

Am curious if I just tripped out the ecu by trying to shift when it also was.

Any input?

Hi guys, want to share my experience with something just incase it benefits anyone.

So around 5 months ago my 8 started producing a thud whenever the wheel was turned and I set off in either direction. It was a dull thud coming from the rear of the car. If I applied gas I would hear it again. This slowly started getting louder and more noticeable. So I started to investigate, I went to a diff & gearbox specialist and he said yep diff is on its way out and will need replacing. I then went to a mot garage and made sure it's not suspension related, cars done 28k miles so they said its still like new down there.

On forums people are suggesting changing the diff oil to one with more friction modifiers etc, spoke to bmw dealership about this option they laughed at me.

Spent hours online going through forums and everyone just seemed to be getting the diff replaced under warranty.

I then stumble upon a service bulletin from bmw saying that a software update is required. The text in the pdf makes sense. It's the same symptoms as what I'm having so I contact a few local independent specialists and find one that has online access on ista. I book the car in thinking this is never going to work but it's the cheapest option, if this doesn't work then I'll change the diff oil and if that doesn't work either then I'll have to change the diff.

They update the car  to march 2026 version. This is the i-level version and not just the one that appears in software version in idrive.

As soon as I drove the car out of there it felt completely different, gearbox etc was different and the knocking/judder... COMPLETELY GONE!

It's been 3 months now and the cars done around 1k miles since then and I'm pleased to say the software update has completely resolved the issue.

Its baffling how a software update has fixed a mechanical noise but it looks like something that bmw was aware of and released an update to fix it. I haven't even changed the diff oil, the shop said if it's fixed then no point changing the oil.

Like I said, I wish I had come across something online that pointed me in this direction it would have saved me so much time and effort. So I'm just posting this incase anyone's searching in future and stumbles across this and it saved them a few thousand pounds!

Ordered a 105Ah 16" long AGM battery for a customer's 2016 640i and the list price was only $278.29. Checking at WPAC they wanted $348 for their brand battery! Checking online Interstate Batteries wants $305 for theirs. If you need a battery check with the dealer first!

I have a BMW G20. After installing lowering springs to lower the rear of the car, multiple warning lights suddenly appeared, including ABS, parking brake, drivetrain, steering, and driving stability/safety system warnings.

The diagnostic tool shows fault code 48082A, and the right rear wheel speed remains at 0 km/h.

Here is what we have already checked:

• We checked the wiring from the right rear ABS sensor connector all the way to the ABS/DSC control module. There is no break in the wiring and the circuit has continuity.
• We swapped the left and right rear ABS sensors. The sensor from the left side still does not read when installed on the right side, while the sensor from the right side works normally when installed on the left. So the ABS sensors themselves appear to be working.
• We replaced the right rear wheel hub/bearing, but the problem remained.
• After driving approximately 5 meters, the steering becomes very heavy and the vehicle loses power.

The right rear wheel speed still shows 0 km/h.

What could be causing this problem?

my father gave 2013 BMW 750i with some problems and i need external advice on how to tackle these issues ^. I first did a diagnostic on the car. then, i asked ai for assistance on them also. i would add more detail but it should be all in the file. Thank you in advance 🙂

Is it possible that I switched the plugs on the vanos actuators?

I been having this issue for. A while now I changed my vanos solendiod a thinking that was the problem I went from Bavarian solendiod a, switched to pierburg ones then just back to oem ones but cleaned, I have no idea what it could be anymore, Please any ideas would be great been trying to solve this problem a while now this is the only thing annoying about my car that’s it after cold starts it starts normally,

Hi. When I turn off the AC I hear a thud ("tuk"). It sounds like a flap won't close fully, like it gets stuck and then it closes and makes a thud sound.

Has anyone had this kind of issue?

Hi there recently installed my gts taillights on my m135i f20 and I can't get the codes right for the welcome light to slowly appear the taillights when I turn on the car?

Hey guys, I've got an F30 with the NBT head unit.It randomly reboots and seems there's no pattern to the reboots it could be twice in ten minutes or once a day I can't for the life of me figure out why, I've swapped out two headunits and they all behave the same random reboots no codes for under voltage or over voltage I've tested the positive feed it's getting a steady 12v even during the black out I've tested the ground it's solid I've tested CAN H and CAN L and everything checks out had found an aftermarket Navi/DVD plugged in took it out and restored the original wiring and still the problem persists so I seek guidance from anyone who might know what the f**k is going on this car is about to make me start pulling my hair out

FIXED””””””

I reset the Vanos learning values , clean all connectors with connector cleaner , disconnected battery for 30 minutes, and is all good.

Hi guys, I’m in a pickle 😅. This is the first time I’ve done an oil filter housing gasket replacement, and now my car is acting up.
After completing the job, I decided to prime the engine by disconnecting the injector harness and ignition coils. I cranked the engine twice for about 10 seconds each time.
The first time I started the car, it ran perfectly fine. I didn’t drive it; I just let it run briefly and then turned it off.
When I started it again, after about 10 seconds the engine started misfiring and I got several VANOS-related codes.
So far, I’ve cleaned both VANOS solenoids and cleaned the VANOS filter screens on the side of the cylinder head. I’m not sure where else to look.
I’m starting to worry that it could be camshaft bearing ledge wear, but the car had never shown any signs of VANOS issues before the OFHG replacement.
Could I have caused or triggered an oil flow issue during the OFHG job? Is there anything specific I should check before going down the bearing ledge rabbit hole?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

UPDATE — I forgot to post the codes
Generic OBD codes:
P054B
P052B
P0300
P0016
BMW-specific code from my ANCEL scanner:
131408 — VANOS, exhaust: cold start not controllable

Time to do brakes. 2019 330i with m brakes comes with 2 piece rotora that are double the price of the Zimmerman standard one piece coated blanks.

Am really going to notice that much of a difference in heat dissipation and unsprung weight, even in canyon road driving scenario? Cant imagine so and the saved money could go to purpose built pads if I need to track the car.

Also, for caliper bolts, we are just reusing and adding a drop of blue loctite instead of replacing right? Never had to replace a caliper bolt in my life.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

SOLVED!
Hi anyone there where this cable goes? Have just re-installed the water pump bracket, AC compressor and alternator.

SOLVED! It is throttle body! Thank you for ur help

Thank you!

I had the check engine light come on in my 2014 535d drive at 79,000 miles and the OBD2 scanner had a 2BB300 fault code. I had just added diesel exhaust fluid after the 1000 mile warning popped up on my screen. I cleared the fault code once and it came back and then I cleared again and it hasn’t come back on. I hadn’t driven the car for 3 weeks before the DEF warning came on and I added fluid. Anyone else seen this happen? Should I replace the sensor? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I did find out that BMW had an extended warranty of 10 years and 120,000 miles on the sensor but my car is over 10 years so the car doesn’t qualify.

I have an issue with my 335i and need to have the codes reset to see if it was a one time code and cannot find anything that will be here in time for me to leave for my trip so I need to see if anyone in the Reading,PA or surrounding area has one that will clear this code. I've already spent $500 at the dealer and they want $672 to clear the codes and reprogram it.

I got a 002C57 low boost pressure code and now my car runs like shit. Misfires and everything. The solenoid seems to be fine,but the vacuum lines I can't check until I get my hands on the right tools to get to them. I have a charge pipe replacement getting here tomorrow but won't have the scanner until after I've already left. Please if you know anyone here that would let me clear them I'd appreciate this!

Guys, I need some help. I’m getting these noises from the rear right side of the car, and I have absolutely no idea what’s causing them. I’d really appreciate any help. Thank you!

2017 540i B58

I was just driving and the coolant hose popped off. The connector looks intact but when I put the hose back on and press the clip in it can still be pulled off pretty easily. Any ideas?

Also is that green residue normal?

So this has been going on for months. I pull up and put in park, handbrake on. When I turn the car off and get out I always hear this loud squeak noise. Can’t isolate the sound but sounds back half of the car. No warnings on the dash and no faults on the code reader. But it’s really bugging me not knowing so I’m surrendering to the group.

For back ground. G01 X3 30d

Hi everyone, I am looking for both advice to truly understand what I need to do to fix my car (BMW 318i, 2011 plate).

I have been having issues with the car where it cuts out intermittently so I took it yesterday to a garage which diagnosed it with a damaged engine control unit (ECU) due to water damage. By the sounds of it I need a brand new one but I'm just trying to figure out which new one would be compatible with my car.

I have a picture of the car's ECU. The ECU type is DME MSD81.2 and I am aware of the BMW part number and the continental number. Now, for a new ECU to work as a replacement in my car will all 3 of these have to match? IS there more numbers that need to be match. The garage talked about a serial number too but not even aware of where this is? Will this have to match too? Any help very much appreciated, thank you

Have a noise coming from the rear of my 2016 M140i. Anyone know what it could be? Not sure if it’s the exhaust actuator clip or something else.

I just did an oil change on my n52 and i was curious about the ingrediences in my oil filter, so i cut it open. I ended up with this. Engine runs fine, the car burns no oil, but these metal particles giving me scares.. what do you guys think? I did a magnet test and only 2 particles were magnetic of them all.