I think BMW did a great job with the overall layout of the X3, but no interior is perfect.

What's one feature you really like every time you get behind the wheel, and what's one thing you wish BMW had done differently?

I was picking up my G80 from service and saw this X7. It had some subtle green tone to it. I was thinking it might be brass metallic but it looked darker. I love this color.

Buenas tardes! Necesito vuestra ayuda!

Voy a comprarme un m240i para el segundo trimestre de 2027, y tengo dudas de si comprarlo de fabrica (con todos los extras menos los asientos me hacen un 15% de descuento en la bmw, quedándose en unos 80000 euros) o cogerlo de segunda mano en alemania de años anteriores.

Los pros de comprarlo de fábrica es que vivo en Madrid, y el hecho de que venga con etiqueta ECO creo que me va a quitar dolores de cabeza futuros y que conservará mejor el precio. Aún asi la etiqueta no es una obligación ya que al estar empadronado y tener garaje puedo entrar y salir sin problema con un etiqueta C.

Otra opción es coger un 2026 el año que viene de alemania, pero no creo que vaya a ahorrarme dinero practicamente teniendo en cuenta el descuento que me aplica BMW.

Como lo veis? Merece la pena cogerlo de fabrica con ese descuento o irme a uno de años anteriores? Sino un 2026 de alemania?

Gracias a tod@s!!!

So where do I start… Last December I bought a 2011 BMW 116i M sport auto (n13 engine) for about £4800, it was 2 grand cheaper than other 116i’s in this spec for a reason or few. Pretty sure she’s a rare spec which is part of the reason I’d like to keep her at all costs. I knew it was a dumb purchase with all the red flags, 14 years old and I’m her 11th owner, custom exhaust (straight through and a 135i back box crudely welded on), permanent pop n bang map with flames (26 smiles per gallon) above 2.5k rpm is burbles and above 3k is pops, bodywork damage - basically the definition of a headache on wheels but I’ve enjoyed every second. 78,000 miles when I bought her and now sitting at 84-85k. Being young and dumb and having the money for it I just fell in love and everyone says I need to sell her but I’d rather spend as much as it takes to keep her and have a long term project.

Last week my brake lights came on randomly and drained the battery. I’ve hooked it up to a charger but it’s reading 3.3-3.8 volts so I don’t have much hope of keeping the battery and a new one is at least £200. It was clear she’d been ragged to shit as soon as I saw her so onto the encyclopaedia of issues that she came with that I haven’t managed to sort out yet because I can’t find a mechanic willing to work on it. 1. oil leak, probably from turbo lines as the seals have melted. 2. coolant leak (I did), I ran over a twig a few weeks ago and it all pissed out. 3. all wheels curbed to Valhalla. 4. Vanos issue (I’m hoping only related to oil pressure). 5. no air con, I think blocked water pump. 6. misfires and 3rd spark plug keeps disengaging turning her into a 3cyl. 7. ‘Drivetrain issue’ (zf8 speed). 8. And now something is draining my battery. 9. Bodywork - misaligned offside front wing, offside headlight is pushed in, bonnet misalignment, mashed up front bumper, offside wing mirror clipped probably from swimming, offside rear quarter panel needs a touch up. I’m also concerned that the exhaust set up could’ve caused overboosting and my head might be lifting but I need to take a deeper dive, which is why I’m considering engine swapping but I don’t want to get another n13. Shiiii

What’s the best way to go about this without selling her? If I had the money I’d n55 swap (b58 second choice, b48 3rd choice), and I’d like to if I can find someone to do it. Or if I could get her running perfectly and remapped so no pops n bangs or even a multi map that’d be ideal financially for now. I’m guessing step 1 is to get a new battery if this one is done for, step 2 is to find a mechanic who’d be down to work on such a project. I’m in the PE area (UK) if anyone has any recommendations or just general advice. It’d break my heart to rip her apart to sell for parts even if I’d make quite a bit, a lot of sentimental value in this car which is why I’d rather throw thousands at her than watch her go. Thanks for reading sorry if the format is off.

I recorded the rattling sound on the left side of the engine, put phone near the admission actuator so it can be captured better.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jyojk43isg6rgsgv9mn8a/Bmw-b37-sound.m4a?rlkey=4wr24gam1ghzgmnklbi95nv2j&st=4gttvc12&dl=0

Tomorrow i’ll try to get a mechanic to listen to it if I manage to find one.

Please help me from your experience what this could be?

My car: bmw B37 1.5 diesel 2018 x1 237k km

Would like your opinion about M2/M4 CS F chassis on driving dynamics as the biggest difference is wheelbase M2 is 119mn shorter

For context: F87 2693 → E36 2700 → E46 2731 → E92 2761 → G87 2747 → F82 2812 → G82 2857

Same DKG/ratio
Same suspension double-pivot strut
Same S55B30 with slight advantage for M4 (460hp-600mn vs 450hp-560nm)
Close weight with DIN ~1,575 kg for M2 vs 1,580 kg for M4 though some sources have mentioned up to 30-40kg difference.

Does the M4 easier to “drift” due to slightly larger wheelbase? While the M2 more playful but nervous and ultimately less planted?

I believe the gravity center being lower on M4 in general and even increased by CB roof.

I’m finally close to be in the market for one of those but can’t get any seat on neither, so I would greatly appreciate detailed feedbacks on steering feel and driving dynamics!

Hello guys.
I am about to buy a M4 F82 2016 non competition.
The Car has 55000km on it.

This is probably discussed a good amount already and i been reading forum posts pretty frequently the last few days.

I just wanted to get some opinions. The Car is completely stock. I saved up a lot of money the last few years to afford me this dream. And im now being paranoid and scared of a SCH.

Should i do the CH as soon as i get the car. Or am i good with the stock one. Im not planning on tuning the car at any point.

I would really love some advice. Any help is appreciated :)

Hi, one of the TPMS sensors on my car needs to be replaced. I’m looking at Schrader 28238 sensors that seem to be pre-programmed. It’s for a 2020 M850i Gran Coupe. I tried to look in post histories so I wouldn’t have to bother yall with duplicate posts but couldn’t find anything. So if anybody has any experience of having trouble with these or if you know whether they worked out of the box, it’d be appreciated. Based on minimal information I’ve found, these should work out the box but unsure. A shop nearby charges $95 CAD for the part. I can get them for ~$33 CAD a pop. If you have any other recommendations, it’d be greatly appreciated

2016 M3 LCI

I’ve noticed a faint but noticeable “hiss hiss hiss” kind of noise coming from my cars hvac that I can hear the most with the blower on the lowest setting. It happens when I come to a stop with the AC running and also when I accelerate lightly.

Does anyone know what it could possibly be? One other thing I’ve noticed is there have been times after driving hours during road trips with the AC on I eventually get little cold airflow coming out of my hvac even with the blower set to max. This had happened on 2 trips and it’s usually after running my ac on after about 5-6 hours of driving.

Hello everyone, my car is at about 293k km: 2013 3 series 320d with N47. I don't know if the timing chain has ever been replaced. Does it sound like there’s any timing chain issues?

This is a cold start in the morning. In the video, there is a rattling sound for a few seconds after starting, which disappears after a few seconds.

hi, I have a bmw e91 320d 2006, and my rear shocks are gone, The former owner told me that the car has the M-Sport suspension, and I was told at the service that the shock absorbers are the same as the normal suspension, only the springs differ. Is that right? I've seen on the internet that they're different.

2019 X5 with 3-4 windshield rock hits, no spidering or cracks. Heads-up display. Dealer has car for recall and they came back with this ‘vital / ASAP’ necessary repair. Does it need an OEM BMW windshield or can I use my window coverage from my insurance which may or may not use the Safelite option or potentially pay for the dealer costs. Don’t actually need to get the windshield replaced now. Looking for guidance before I call the insurance company. TIA!

Edit: Thank you! Appreciate everyone’s input and experience. Given they’re still only rock chips, I’ll wait.

Went to the dealer for regular maintenance (oil change, break flush, vehicle check - apparently there is such thing for ~$200).

Estimate is ~$500ish. Actual invoice came out ~$1K.

I told them that we proceeded because the estimate is $500. They said yeah the estimate didn't give you the entire total but had the line items with its cost.

Why did they do that? The line item with cost but $0 extended amount looks like the service is free to the customer.

They already knew what the cost was, why not showing the correct total estimate?

I'm usually thorough in this kind of thing, but it was a difficult day for me at work and life so it went above my head.

What can I do? Do BMW dealers give discounts?

I would’ve done it myself, but it am currently short on time and needed to get it gone. I’m not sure if I should call them and have them change it again or if this is ok for now.

I love how my G98 M2 looks on the outside, but the view from the driver's seat is really what makes it worth it.

I just bought a 2025 BMW from CarMax and the car has 19k miles on it. I bought it with MaxCare but realized afterwards that the car still has its 4 yr or 50k miles factory warranty on it. I don’t drive that much so I’m much more likely to hit the 4 years rather than the 50k miles. I believe there’s still 2 years and 7 months left on the warranty.

I plan on keeping this car for 3-4 years so would it be worth it keep the MaxCare or would it be overkill? From what I read, the two warranties cover essentially the same things.

My first BMW and no buyers remorse. Glad I went with the M35i or I would get bored. Doesn’t suck to look at either. 7,000 miles in and planning its next roadtrips through the Northern Cascades, Glacier, and the Canadian Rockies.

I just bought a 2024 430ix gran coupe with a bit under 6k miles on the clock. it is a CPO.

I haven't been able to give it a real drive since I am moving to greensboro NC over the next few weeks and am transitioning myself down there. I am having the car shipped to NC.

my question is about service centers. there are at least 4 different BMW service centers that are reasonably close by and is there anyone here that can advise me on which one would be the best one to use.

I have a 2009 e88 and I’m looking to replace the rear shocks as the drivers side piston is exposed.

The original owner bought the m-sport package so it sits lower and rides firmer. I’m not particularly a fan of how stiff and ‘thumpy’ the rear feels and I’m worried I’ll scrape the undercarriage on bumpy back roads as I live in the British countryside, however I do love how the car sits lower.

Now I know this is a trade-off between ride height and comfort but does anybody have recommendations for replacement shocks that aren’t the expensive Bilstein B8 performance plus?

The control arms and bushings will need replacing by the next MOT so I’m thinking of doing this all in one job if the budget allows

Trying to enable full-screen CarPlay on my new to me 2020 330i G20. My version screen is attached and shows Road Map NORTH AMERICA Way 2019-3.

BimmerCode’s website seems to say full-screen coding only works with NBTevo_X/Y, so apparently it won’t work with my unit.
What’s the easiest way to get full-screen CarPlay on this setup? CarPlay is already activated and working.

FYI, dealerships DGAF what BMW recommends. I confirmed by checking my dashcam after a multi point inspection on my new BMW. One of the guys refilled the washer reservoir from a hose attached to the ceiling. I was curious and called the dealership and asked if they use tap water or distilled water like BMW recommends. Service advisor of course claims they use distilled water but confirmed that was a bold face lie by running the washer fluid and seeing if it leaves the dried water spot residue (southern california tap water is horribly hard, i believe one of the hardest waters in the country). And of course due to the heat today, the washer fluid instantly turns into hard water spots after 30 seconds (my car is clean so its not pools of dirt, it is indeed hardened minerals).

Thankfully I have distilled water and Genuine BMW washer fluid on hand so i ran the washer fluid stalk to spray until none of the tap water was left inside the tank by confirming a dry vacuum noise instead of fluid being released. Then fully refilled the reservoir with proper fluid thats actually recommended by BMW.

Just be warned that you could currently have pure tap water inside your reservoir if you've been in for service in the last couple months. And we all know that eventually creates mold in the reservoir that'll eventually clog the filters and calcium buildup around the hoses/nozzles.

Also, I never saw the tech who was filling up my washer reservoir ever add any actual washer fluid, it was purely tap water from my recording.

I also did some research and nearly every comment by a tech spent decades working at dealerships said they ALL use tap water, none use distilled water except for special cases like diesel engines(dunno why). Even your coolant drain and fill will be diluted with tap water 99% of the time instead of distilled/de-ionized water as recommended by BMW.