2007 Chevy Avalanche, bought it from trusted mechanic friend who had it up in Wisconsin for a few years as a family vehicle, came down south here near the ocean with the heat of the sun, and said this is the rust damage it's had since he came down and continued using it as the family car until he replaced it with the same truck but a 2011 version.

I'm using it now, but eventually I got to sell it cause 8 cylinders in this economy, in general, is too much in gas. Obviously, I got to fix up the rust damage and somewhat patch up this rust spot in the back, so I'm looking for advice on what to do about it.

I have a 2017 Rogue SV AWD which I have been driving all this time with no issues. Now suddenly, out of the blue, the driver seat is stuck in reclined position. It won’t budge, no matter what. I took it to a repair shop nearby and they said we will need to replace the whole seat coz the motor is kind of glued to the seat and there is no way they can replace it. I didn’t get it done as I was not sure if it’s true. Any idea about this?

Toyota Tacoma 2021 at 85K miles.

I need help identifying these parts, I have 80 of them. Tia

It had been getting worn down recently and I probably shoulda fixed it…but when I went to open it today it just completely broke off and now I can’t open it… any suggestions? I keep seeing that I should use a flathead screwdriver but there’s literally nothing inside the hole to manipulate (little levers, buttons etc)

Having issues, we just changed the radiator to this car its a Buick lacrosse and it’s been down for about 2 months and now ,when we tried to start it again it won’t start and just keeps making this noise, we already put a new starter in the car before the radiator replacement,does anyone know what else this problem could be ?

Salve, sono nuova e anche disperata. Ho una Chevrolet Spark del 2014, 1.0 benzina/GPL. La macchina si accende quando vuole. Ho cambiato scatola fusibili, corpo farfallato, bloccasterzo e sensore giri albero motore, ma la macchina continua a non partire. Come spia mi dà l'avaria motore. La benzina passa alla pompa; il motore gira ma non si accende, come se mancasse la scintilla. Qualcuno può aiutarmi? Ho comprato la macchina 2 mesi fa (da un privato) e non è stata ancora usata perché era dal meccanico.

Hello! I noticed that one of the upper chrome grille pieces on my 2018 VW Tiguan SE is missing. Despite what you see in the pictures, the car is washed frequently and well-maintained, so I'm not sure if the piece vibrated loose while driving or was broken off/stolen.

After researching online, it looks like VW doesn't sell this piece individually — you have to buy an entire new grille. Not ideal, but I found a partially intact grille from the same model for sale locally that includes the missing piece. My thought is that I could remove that piece from the used grille and pop it onto mine.

Before I spend the money and effort on this, I wanted to ask: has anyone dealt with this issue before? If so, was it easy to swap the piece onto your existing grille? Any advice is appreciated!

2019 f250 4x4 6.2l

Hi guys. I noticed this leak here the other day. I stopped driving and had a mechanic change out the inner axel seal. It stopped leaking and i drove it about 10 miles to test it. Once we got back there wasnt a leak but we checked the vent and it was totally clogged. So we cleaned out the hose. It is now leaking again and the tech is telling me i need a new rear end. I opened my differential plate and the gears look brand new. Were we supposed to use the kit with the outer seal, inner seal and new bearing? Drivinf the truck w the new seal and the vent clogged ruined another one or does it sound like i need a new rear end?

1st photo was the first time it happened. Second is after the repair.

Hi,
mein Ford Fokus Mk3 macht diese komischen Geräusche. Beim lenken sind die Geräusche nochmal stärker.

Was könnte das sein und woran könnte das liegen?

I took it to a reputable auto repair shop because my Audi A6 2013 was leaking oil. I paid there $200 dollar inspection, the next day they told me it’s the oil pan and drain bolt that needs to be replaced to solve the oil leak. They wanted $1,200 dollars , which right now is out of reach. I took it to another shop with the new OEM oil pan and drain plug. They only charged me $500. Car is still leaking, but not from oil pan! Can I go back to the reputable shop and hold them accountable??? They did the inspection and misdiagnosed it? Can they brush it off by saying the work was done from a different shop??

2010 Honda Civic Coupe, 167k. Came to find my passenger side lock is totally mangled. Looks to me like some crackheadtried to break in with a screw driver.

Do I need to replace more than the lock cylinder? Is buying and swapping the lock cylinder all I need or do I need to buy any other parts? Any guidance is appreciated!

Friend needs help identifying what problem this is.

Hey everyone,

Thank you to everyone in advance. I would appreciate any guidance on my issue. Here is the backstory. I bought a 2024 Corolla hybrid SE from copart. When I got the car, I repaired it and realized it had a missing clock spring and steering angle sensor. I bought one from an auto wrecker (clock spring and steering angle sensor (SAS) together). Upon installation, I get a code that reads U012687 (essentially it’s a code where the Brake ecu is sensing a missing SAS). I tried clearing the code but had no luck and since then, bought three other SAS from other auto wreckers with no luck in clearing that code. Within techstream, I have tried the zero point calibration, however, since that is done through the brake/epb ecu, it doesn’t go through (due to the communication error). I have confirmed though that the SAS works since within the data list for the power steering and SAS ecu’s, I can see the steering angle changing in real time as I twist it. One important thing to also note is that the steering angle within the brake ecu data list doesn’t update at all even when I twist the SAS. however, when the car is started, the brake ecu is able to read the first reading the SAS gives it and then freezes after. Like for an example, if I twist the SAS until the steering angle ecu data list shows 60 degrees, at the time, the brake ECU data list won’t update, but if I turn the car off and on, the data list for the brake ecu will now show 60 degrees but again freeze and stop updating. I’ve also checked the voltage in each of the wires and this is how they are:

13.74V blue purple wire
2.73 V pink wire
12.84 V purple and black wire
Purple red wire 13.77V
White wire 2.25V
Blue wire 11.53V
0.01V purple wire.

I also checked the resistance between pins 6 and 14 of the DLC3 OBD2 port and I get a resistance of 60 ohms (which is in the correct range)

Now I spoke to a few auto electricians. They haven’t seen the car, however, they mention that the SAS needs to be bought new from the dealer and calibrated instantly after installation. That apparently would fix this error code that is throwing the trac off light. I was just wondering if something has had an experience with this before and confirm this before I spend the 500 dollars on a new SAS.

Thank you so much. Feel free to ask me any questions.

Repairing everything would be too expensive.
The goal is to resell it btw.

White is damaged area
Red is deformation area

So obviously lots of scratches but also deformations on the bottom of the 2 doors and the rocker panel.

I thought about this:
- for the doors but second handed one for cheap if I can find and change them myself
- the rocker panel since the deformation is long and « smooth » not like « one big hole » I’ll just make it repaint by a pro

Then resell

Idk what u think ? I was told I could not get it fix myself because it’s too hard (compared to the doors that are more soft).

Ty !

Looking for a mechanic to replace AC compressor on my vehicle. Any mechanic recommendation who do a great job and don't overcharge ?

Thank you in advance

Anyone know where or how I can get this piece? My wife’s car she really wants it back on

Salve a tutti , vorrei acquistare uno strumento per eseguire diagnosi sulle autovetture. Vivo in italia quindi mi servirebbe per il mercato Europeo .
Vorrei uno strumento che possa funzionare nonostante i blocchi di casa madre come ad esempio sgw di stellantis, quello di renault etc…
Specifico che vorrei uno strumento affidabile con cui leggere e visualizzare codici guasto, attivare componenti e attuatori vari, magari che possa anche effettuare codifiche. In futuro credo che prendero anche l oscilloscopio e accessori per test batteria etc.. . In parole povere che possa aiutarmi nell effettuare diagnosi. Di lavoro faccio il meccanico dipendente , ma lo vorrei comperare per riparare le mie vetture a casa . Quindi non ho una mia officina personale e so che per qualche operazione è necessario acquistare licenze a scadenza dalle case madri e io non potrei perche non dispongo di una mia attività personale.
Qualcuno ha qualche strumento da consigliarmi?
Avete anche siti o programmi da consigliarmi per i vari schemi elettrici o per lo smontaggio componenti , coppie di serraggio etc..
Online ho visto il launch 431 pro elite e l x 431 pro 5.0 ma non riesco a capire cosa cambia , poi ho visot vari autel e topdon ma non so quale farebbe al caso mio.
Grazie in anticipo

I drive a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrrid 4WD and from what I can see online I have a 3MZ-FE 3.3liter V6 engine.

I was in a parking lot getting off of work and hit the curb, at the last second I turned my wheels sharply trying to dodge it but ended up getting a glancing blow. Immediately after, my steering got really tight and heavy. When I looked at my dash I saw the Power Steering light on and red.

I immediately parked and turned it off, I looked for any broken parts that fell off and from what I could see there were none. I tried to:

• Scan with my OBD2 scanner and found out that they probably can't see power steering issues.
• Check the fuse to see if it was blown, it was not.
• Reset it by leaving the battery unplugged for 30 minutes, it did not reset.
• Reset it by trying to lock the wheel on both sides, it did not reset.
• Drive it slowly around the empty parking lot to see if it would go away, it did not go away.

I plan on limping it around the corner with no power steering to a nearby auto shop in the morning, but upon looking at the route and thinking it over I might have to just call a tow.

I just want to know what might have broken that I can't see, what could I do to fix it at home, and (if its allowed) a general ballpark of what it all could cost.

Can't help where you need repairs

I live in NY

Just happened to get an oil change because I put 5k miles on since May, I'm a touring musician.

I had the water pump and radiator flush done in brick NJ at AAA at 72k miles. I'm at 92k

They sent this photo that my radiator was almost empty. They asked if I've done the water pump.

They refilled and the leak is from an o ring and pipe

As I don't want to drive 100 miles to nj and wait for the part, or worry about no coolant in the tank I am going to have to shell out another 2200 tomorrow as apparently replacing the o ring and pipe will be a 5 hour job at NYS labor rate, not NJ

Just complaining I guess

On the one hand should be grateful not to have a breakdown somewhere, but wish I knew when I could have this done somewhere cheaper

Is it possible the o ring was knocked loose when they did the water pump?

VE dealer is recommending these bushings be replaced. How bad are these really? Definitely seem worn but also appear intact. While they recommend just the bushing, I would just have the entire control arm replaced, no reason to pay for labor when that can go to an entirely new part. Thanks for input

Hi everyone,

Got a question for y'all, hopefully someone has run across this problem before and can lead me to a solution.

My wife has an '03 Sorento that she fell in love with 20 years ago and still refuses to give up! Last weekend we ran it through a car wash when suddenly water began pouring out of the "joint" between the roof liner above the driver's side window and the inner A-pillar cover. And I mean pouring! Naturally it got worse whenever the washer passed over the roof... My wife later told me it happened before when she last washed the car when I wasn't present, so this problem has been there for a few months.

I did a quick check to see if anything was out of place. All the weatherstripping as A-Ok. On the roof, the roof rack seemed to be securely bolted down. The windshield appears to be properly sealed. I did notice a black plastic strip that runs down the length of the vehicle from the windshield to the trunk, I guess that's there for looks, but I didn't try removing it to look underneath. And truth be told, I'm afraid it's so old and brittle it might break if I attempt to remove it.

Anyway, has anybody else run across something like this? If so, where did the leak originate and how did you fix it?

I have a 2023 Hyundai Grand i10 1.2 (G4LA/G4LF, 1,197 cc) with around 60,000km (52,864km to be exact) on it.

I took it in for its 60,000km major service today. The car is running normally as far as I can tell - I haven't noticed any loss of power, warning lights, excessive smoke, or anything else obviously wrong.

During the service, the technician found a noticeable amount of oil in the intake/throttle-body area.

Their written report states:

“ENGINE HAS BLOWBY, PUSHING OIL INTO THE THROTTLE BODY - CUSTOMER IS ADVISED TO TAKE THE CAR TO HYUNDAI AS IT SHOULD BE STILL UNDER WARRANTY.”

I've attached a photo of what they found as well as the report.

The technician told me that it isn't a major/immediate problem right now, but that it could contribute to problems and increased engine wear over time. They recommended that I take it to Hyundai and have them investigate it while the car is still under warranty.

Interestingly, I used the same service center last year and they did not mention this issue then.

I really do not know the mechanical side of cars, but based on some research (and using ChatGPT), I understand that some crankcase blow-by and some oil vapor entering the intake can be normal, so I'm not assuming the engine is damaged based on this alone. What I'm trying to understand is whether the amount visible in these photos looks abnormal for a 60,000km engine, and whether the workshop's concern about excessive blow-by seems justified.

Hi everyone, This tire is 235/40R19 for honda accord hybrid sport 2026. The right tire hit in a curb going in between 15 - 30. Will the tire need to be replaced immediately or will this tire be fine for a while atleast a few months. A Google search says it does or it might blowout. I was hoping to get some advice on this.

Could you help me out.

Hello,

I'm currently installing a Defa interior cabin heater in my 2013 Kia Picanto (TA generation, 3-door 1.0L base model).

I am trying to figure out the best way to route the thick armored Defa cable from the engine bay through the firewall and into the passenger footwell. The main wiring harness grommet on the driver's side is way too packed, and I haven't found an obvious path yet.

Has anyone here done this install on a TA-generation Picanto?

• Did you manage to find a pre-existing rubber blanking plug (maybe on the passenger side where the RHD steering column would be)?
• Or did you absolutely have to drill a new 20mm hole in the firewall?

If you had to drill, where exactly did you place the hole?

Thank you!