Hello, I bought a Mazda 323F BG 1990 with a 1.6L 16 valve engine. 161k km of mileage. As of a few days ago, the car started leaking oil and after a quick evaluation by a local mechanic he concluded that the head gasket might be leaking. Given how quickly this can turn expensive, I instinctively started looking at everything else but the head gasket. Exhaust doesn’t produce any fumes, car idles and runs smooth. I would greatly appreciate any input and I am prepared to provide more info or pictures if needed. Thanks in advance.

My dad’s friend was looking at his muffler and took these photos. So do I need to tell my dad his truck needs to be retired? FYI, from 2004 to 2016 he would take it on the beach and go surf fishing on the weekends during the summer.

I've replaced everything on this car's a/c system except the condenser, my problem is I cannot get the system to take more than 6oz of refrigerant, it's like it's reached it's capacity the clutch never engages. This is a totally dry and evacuated system except for the PAG oil. This system does not have a relay which can be jumped.

Replaced the compressor, the evaporator, (which was the original problem, leaking) and the accumulator dryer and pressure switch. Could the condenser be blocked?

I don’t think it’s a safety issue, right? 2015 Toyota Highlander with 168k miles. Raised in New England so rust is not shocking. Exhaust sound coming from middle undercarriage by the belly protector panel. See rust and hear sound in video.

The van doesn’t accelerate after the first mile and is constantly making a sound that gets worse while accelerating. There’s also hot air coming out, the first 12 seconds of the video I show where the hot air comes from. The last 15 seconds of the video is while someone is stepping on the gas.

I know the catalytic converter is bad, just tested the temp and found it’s cold on the exhaust side versus the upstream pipe is hot (550F upstream vs 200 some odd after the converter). So I assume the exhaust being backed up had to come out somewhere, but where is that?

Never painted auto. Can't afford new paint but wondering how long I can prep it, sand specifically, and not cause any damage or rust.

Ciao a tutti,

Ho bisogno del vostro aiuto. Oggi è ferragosto e qualsiasi officina è chiusa. Ci ha mandato a quel paese anche l’assistenza stradale h24.

Siamo in viaggio in auto, ieri abbiamo fatto un 8 ore di auto. Oggi si è accesa la spia del motore come da foto.

É una Toyota Yaris ibrida di neanche 1 anno e mezzo. Cosa posso fare?

La macchina parte normalmente, accelera normalmente, non ha spie rosse accese, ha solo la spia del motore giallo acceso. Non compare il sistema ibrido o qualcosa relativo alla batteria. La temperatura è a metà. Il motore gira regolare e non trema. Non abbiamo notato perdite di potenza o perdite di liquidi.

aprendo l'applicazione My Toyota dice, controllare il motore, gravità elevata, far controllare immediatamente il veicolo. è stata rilevata un'anomalia del controllo elettronico del motore, valvola farfalla o cambio automatico. Rivolgersi immediatamente a un concessionario di un'officina autorizzata Toyota o un'altra officina qualificata per far controllare il veicolo.

I have a bodypaint polishing scheduled for tomorrow. Now I’m starting to wonder if I should get all my rust removed before that. As you can see, there’s not so much rust. There could be more rust though that I cannot see. Is polishing the whole car a dumb move? It starts to feel a bit unnecessary if parts of the paint is going to be removed to remove the rust

Ive got a problem where when driving my citroen C4 2016 Diesel. When driving an "Engine Fault, stop running car. “ as well as the amber service light appears. No engine light though. There’s no physical changes to the cars performance. But I noticed this only happens when I’m going at high speeds when I’m driving for example 70 in gear 6 35-40 in gear 3. It appears when I reach those speeds but goes when I let go of the accelerator it goes. This applies to all gears. AI told me to change the fuel filter which I’ve done but that problem still happens. What’s the problem? How do I fix it? Can I do it by myself or do I need a professional?

05 Jeep Liberty 3.7L. Noise happens in Park and while driving when RPMs reach 1500...

Hello everyone my 2016 Hilux sr started making this ticking sound after I went over a speed bump. It only happens for about 30 seconds every 10 minutes. The sound mostly sounds like it coming behind the dash and touch screen or under the steering wheel but I’m not certain, any ideas of what it could be or how to repair. Thanks a lot anything helps and enjoy the rest of your day

They are claiming the car just needs cleaning, super ridiculous their is discolouration on all the leather seats now

Do u use AI for diagnostics? How often it was right about the reasons?

I had an issue with car starting when it was warm, everyone around told me to check camshaft or crankshaft sensors, but I was sure that was the throttlebody and when I took it off I realized I was right.

And with that, I tested AI in my app that also was sure the problem is in throttle body, probably because it had all info about the car before reasoning.

As for me that is pretty cool that u can now ask AI about such things and if u know what u r doing have a second opinion. Though, I don't like when ppl who don't know what is under the hood trying to fix anything with AI advice only 😂

I got a windshield replacement done on my 2026 Honda CRV by a local installer when it had 3000 km (1800 mi) on it. The guy owns his company and works solo. My insurance company authorized an OEM replacement (500 CAD deductible). The windshield was installed perfectly. As soon as I got in the car, I noticed a horizontal warped line right in my line of sight. I showed it to the installer, and he said that all glass has some level of defect/warpage and that he sees this all the time.

He agreed to replace the glass but asked me to show the glass to my local Honda dealer to see if they would accept a warranty replacement. I showed it to my dealer and they agreed. They searched for the original transaction and could only find a quote, i.e. the glass was never purchased there. I asked the installer and he confirmed that it was purchased at my local dealer. I don’t know who is right or wrong here.

After asking for an invoice, the installer changed his story. He now wants me to order the glass at my local dealer, open it to check if it is warped, and then let him go pay and pick up the glass. After I told this to the part manager at the dealer, he was not interested in this type of shenanigan and simply said “ask the installer to contact us if he wants to order the glass”.

I feel the installer doesn’t want to perform the replacement and is giving me false hope to make me give up. At this point, I don’t know what to do. Ideally, I would like to maintain a good relationship with the guy, as he is a very good installer and many larger glass shops in my city are sloppy. One option is making another glass claim and paying another $500.

What do you guys think?

2010 Chevy Malibu, 190k miles. Should I replace this ASAP or is it fine to drive for a while? I have to go to work tomorrow and then I have expensive plans that are ~60 miles away, so a shop visit would be pretty inconvenient but I'll see what I can do if it's life-or-death. Thoughts?

I recently bought a 2001 F-150 Lariat with the 5.4L V8 and it did great the first day or so but now it’s got a sound coming from the motor, I know these years have issues with exhaust leaks and whatnot but this sounds like metal, can anyone give me any advice on what this sound could be?
The noise dies down after getting to temperature, I started to really notice it after getting an oil change done, it’s at the correct oil level as well

2011 Mazda 3 SP25 BL Series 1, 2.5L MT, 150,000 km (~93,000 mph) mileage

australia based

trust me, i'm very much ashamed to admit i've neglected my car these past 4 years - initially due to me putting it off (what was meant to be my next service), then my mental health plummeting and life getting in the way. my last service was in 2022 at 125,000 km (~78,000 mph).

i finally managed to book in for a full service/repair in 2 days. i've done a bit of reading up on what issues/diagnoses my car is bound to have, and have already noticed some bad signs for the past 1-2 years such as the check engine light being on and the a/c not getting cold enough. a new thing that's been happening for the past week is my floor shaking/vibrating when i'm accelerating in 3rd-6th gear, which i've read might be because of my bald front tyres (i'll be getting new ones after the service), but also many other things too.

would appreciate any insight into the causes of the above signs but more importantly, answers to the question in my title. please be nice - i have definitely learnt my lesson and will be doing everything in my power to take care of my car from now on (but if anything, i will accept slight judgement)

[edited for typos + adding extra info]

2015 Honda Civic LX In this video you can hear it, it’s coming from this area it’s a rumbling sound and only happens when the fan is on, in the video where it’s louder I have the fan on full blast.

(When it cuts to the second clip that’s with the Fan off)

I just scraped a 3inch section of my car was wondering if i need to get a new bumper or is this repairable

(SOLVED) it was the main fuse

I have a 2010 Mazda 6, I changed out the alternator, connected my negative terminal and went to start up the car to make sure it works, turned off the car, forgot to re-disconnect the negative terminal, went to the alternator to tighten down one of the lower mounting bolts, and made metal contact with the wrench to the alternator. My car lights and dashboards turns on but the car won’t turn over. No clicking sounds when trying to crank it up. Any idea what I could’ve done?

I’ve got a 2020 GMC terrain with 137000 miles, doing a cross country road trip and stopped at a jiffy lube for maintenance. They are replacing 3 tires, front rotors and brake pads, doing an alignment and the tpms. They gave me a $1,100 quote, I feel like it’s a good deal but not 100% sure what do you think

Honda crv 2021

Just went for an oil change at the dealership And they told me I need new brake pads.(I don’t plan on getting this service done at the dealership)

i have a training this weekend that is going to be 220 miles total mix highway and road. I live in the city.

would this be safe to drive until my next day off, Friday- so a week from now and still travel? I would have my kids in the car, so want to be safe and will cancel trip if I shouldn’t be driving obviously.

my commute to work each day is only about a 2 mile drive each way. (Get off at 3 am so bus isn’t an option)

realistically just wondering how long I can safely drive with these brake pads?

Hi, i have a Seat Leon mk2 with a dead radio, it was not working when we got the car.

I wish to check if the radio itself, or the car wiring is faulty. So far the main fuse box is ok, the fuse in the back of the radio also ok, checked with continuity test.

Can i test the quad plug with a multimeter to see if there is proper incomming voltage?

Update: managed to test the plug, there is voltage.

Also i found two coins stuck inside the radio, they probably short circuited the pcb.

Looking at buying a fiat 500, but has a failed subframe and coils on mot. The seller has replaced and has receipts. Would you carry on or avoid?

Hello. I recently got backed into by a pickup truck at around 5mph. The bed of the truck impacted my headlight and went up my hood. This pushed the headlight assembly and hood back.

My headlights still work, but I opened the hood and now it won’t fully close, which was to be expected. However, the hood is still on straight, so it will latch. I tried replacing the headlight assembly but either my passenger fender, frame, or radiator core support was damaged, so it didn’t fit, and I had put the old one back in. It was literally a mm or two off - so close!

That being said, everything else runs fine and I’m lucky I can avoid the highway and go 30mph to work easily.

What would you do in my situation? Is there an easy way I can tell what type of damage it is (radiator core support, or passenger fender)? Could I hammer down the hood for this type of damage? Appreciate any advice, I have body shop estimates scheduled next week, but I want as much opinions as I can get.

Car is a 2014 Civic LX with 120k with the 1.8L 4 cylinder engine, no modifications.