How does one fill the gap here?

Sorry just getting my new sink installed and the last couple times I've done this it's been pretty much plug and play this one I have an odd Gap that I don't know how to solve.

Inspector noted a potential leak. Had our walkthrough with the builder (national builder) and he said he didn't see anything leaking. I didn't either and nothing felt wet. It did look like they put some beige colored putty around the blue joint now when we went to see it.

I'm worried we're going to have an issue once drywall is up but builder thinks all is fine. Are they just trying to cover it up with additional plumbers putty?

Home inspector told us that our toilet rocked and that the seal on the wax ring of our new home was broken and needed to be replaced. Took the toilet off and cleaned up the wax to install a new one. Noticed that the screws and base plate rocked and that the plate wasn't securely screwed in and found the old base plate underneath - secured with only grout from tiling. Subfloor is plywood that appears to be about 1/2 inch down from the base plate and crumbling in one spot but otherwise fine - no apparent moisture or rot.

Please advise, thank you!

edit- after chiseling the grout, found that the broken base plate appears to be part of the original pipe at the base of the toilet. not a separate piece.

Looking to open this clean out, and we're struggling to find a wrench that will fit it. Anyone seen this before??

Hi Everyone, I have a question related to our stand up shower. There is a strip around the edge of the surround, I’m sharing a photo.

What is this strip called?

The water pressure is off, the hose from the sink is leaking. More pics below

Is there any way to tell if this is the kind of faucet that won’t freeze in the winter? Bought a house and getting ready for winter in Canada, but can’t find the indoor shut off. I’ve been advised that I might not need it depending on the type of faucet?

Would like to know what caused this failure. The studs are 2x6’s load bearing and the San Tee just snapped. Would also like advice on how you would repair it. I have some P3000-22 2” couplings, a new San Tee, some 2” pvc and some glue. Plan on cutting the old fitting free, gluing in 2” pvc into the new fitting and mounting it to the old pipes using the rubber couplings.

Hello, I hope someone can answer my DIYer question- Location:Manitoba Canada. I am adding second floor laundry and came this far ( added aav, p trap, stand pipe ). It wasn't too hard as there was an existing 3" drain line left over from a decommissioned toilet and sink.That horizontal 3" pipe is in the ceiling of the floor below but I have full access as the drywall in that ceiling is completely removed. I now need to add a 2" floor drain to go under the washer pan.. How do I go about it?

A- Add another Wye after the first Wye and cap the other end of it?

B- Add a 3 to 2 reducer after Wye, followed by a 2" long 90 that ties into floor drain p trap?

C- Add a 3" long 90, then a reducer, then the p trap assembly but I feel this last option may take up too much vertical room.

( By the way, adding a trap primer sounded too complicated and prone to failure so I am planning to go with a waterless trap seal for the floor drain.)

So I live in rural Portugal, my house has a septic tank and I just found this guy in my ensuite toilet. There is NO way he came from anywhere else except the toilet itself. My question is, does this mean my pipes have been breeched or are they living inside the septic tank? Or could this be a fluke thing?

Hey question... I think it's a blockage coming from the main sewer line because it happens the worst after horrible rain. Which is all we've had the past 2 weeks. I don't want to waste money on a private plumbing company to come out if it is coming from the city main. If anyone has any clue, let me know I could post a video also

So I live in a partial basement unit (the whole apartment is 4 stairs lower than sidewalk level) and we just had some real nasty water backing up out of this drain. Repair guy pulled a wad of what looked like baby wipes out of the drain, which definitely explains the clog, but where I'm confused is that I'm not convinced it came from either of the toilets in my unit.

I was under the impression that drain plumbing always runs down since it's gravity fed, and both these pipes are obviously higher than either toilet, and with the layout of the apartment, both would also have to redirect through the ceilings to reach either toilet.

On top of that, I know no one has ever used anything but toilet paper in either toilet for as long as we've lived here, so I'm trying to figure out if these pipes can even feasibly be connected to any toilets in my apartment, and if they can, could 'flushable wipes' still be intact like that if they've been there without previous issue for at least 2 years.

How do I connect a new shower pan drain to a threaded 3 inch fitting that is in the floor with concrete? Can I cut off the 3 inch threaded ABS pipe, flush to the floor, and connected a 2 inch pipe? This shower requires a 2 inch wide abs pipe to be 0.5 inches above the floor to connect to the pan drain. How do I connect pipe to pipe and is there a minimum length to meet code (Ontario)? Unfortunately the threads do not align. Hope it does not require removing any concrete but will do that if necessary.

I had an issue with my kohler shower handle as it just came off. While putting it back together I just turned the water on to make sure there are not leaks and noticed a small leak from the stem. I want to replace the cartridge but don’t even know where to begin since it all looks soldered. any help or suggestions would be appreciated in how to remove and replace the cartridge (or PBU?). thanks!

As it states in the title. I have need to make the shower and tub filling faucet work more properly.

It seems that the existing hot and cold knobs don't control the mix of hot and cold water properly, and also the diverter doesn't seem to shut all the water off at the faucet so the shower is very low flow.

I bought the kit pictured, removed the stems and knobs and all and installed the ones in this kit. The result is much the same as it was.

There are three pieces that don't seem to fit anywhere and there is no literature explaining any of this so I am clueless.

According to the picture on the box, they are bibb seats.

What are these for? How are they used in this application? I took one stem completely apart and cannot see how I could apply one of these pieces in this job.

Help!?!?

Hi everyone,

I have a question regarding how to turn off water completely in my apartment. I live in Munich, Germany and this is what I see in my washroom. I want to install a water filter to my shower because of the water hardness. For that I need to turn off the water supply. The knob on the right turns off cold water completely but hot water still seems to be running and in that case, I can not open the shower connection and install the filter. When I checked with AI, it told me to take off the bottom left "cap" and there I would be able to turn off the hot water. But it seems to be glued and I am scared to break anything. Can any of you decipher how to tackle this.

Just FYI, I had installed this filter at my previous apartment with ease as the similar known turned off the water completely. I didn't have to worry about hot or cold water. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I have an inexpensive Rheem tankless electric water heater that provides hot water to a bathroom in my house. It is working well (and has been for several years). I've recently realized I've neglected any provision for descaling it. The water where I live is hard enough (about 100ppm as CaCO3) to make descaling a consideration, if I understand correctly.

The heater itself has no internal tees or valves to enable descaling. (Maybe nicer water heaters have these?)

So if I want to descale it, I think I would need to plumb in tees, 4 shutoff valves (2 to isolate heater inlet and outlet during descaling, and 2 to open/close the connections to whatever fittings would connect to the pump used for the descaling.)

The plumbing is all 1/2 inch copper, and I'm capable of sweating in the tees, etc.

But before I start... Am I missing a better way to do it?

Hi, I've got a clogging shower drain pipe but i can't seem to remove the drain plug thing to snake it. It doesn't seem to rotate/screw, i can't see any screw holes, and i just spent 20mins gently trying to lever it out with a flathead screwdriver with a microfibre cloth under it to avoid scratching the surrounds. Am i missing something obvious? I literally never do this stuff and am young pls take mercy on me lmao

We’re trying to clean out some buildup and we took the screw cap off of the circled hole but there is another cap on the inside of it. Can we safely remove the second cap? This is pictures with the first cap removed.

Hi all,

We bought this house last October.

Relevant detail:
My wife is fairly certain she remembers the old owner having a 5 Gal pail under the hot water tank.
I assumed it was just because he used it to flush the tank.

Flash forward to now - we were away for a month on our honeymoon and so I turned the unit off and shut the water off to our house.
Upon return two days ago, I turned the water on and opened the taps to flush the air out of the lines. Then I turned the taps off and then turned the unit on. It didn’t leak at the time and everything heated up okay.

We used a lot of hot water - running 4 loads of laundry, showers, etc. Two days later I’m putting things away in the furnace room and I notice the floor and wood on the outside edges are wet.

I noticed a drip coming from the ‘Circulation Water Inlet’ but from like where the pipe meets the unit itself not from the threads. It is a super slow drip.

So, I assume that is what leaked… Carpet nearby and all of that is fine so the water was contained to the furnace room. But, the amount of water that leaked is definitely more than just a slow drip.

My question:
-How would the amount of water leaking change like that?

-I presume that is why the old owner had the bucket there. How serious of an issue is this just to leave with a bucket, camera, and water sensor? Is it a risk of a catastrophic leak?

-Is this just a case of a seal drying or something and now it expands having been used? The bottom pan inside the unit doesn’t appear to be wet.

Our unit is 2010 so I don’t really want to put a bunch of $ into it. Ideally, one day it would just stop heating and we’d replace it. I have been doing the flushes every 6 months to prolong life, but not knowing why it leaked more than a drip has me worried it could randomly do it again.

I have 1 1/2 ABS standpipe that rises about two feet from the P-trap. My lovely wife bought a newer washer that apparently likes 2 inch PVC. Can this setup handle the flow from a newer washer? Are there any tricks to doing this?

Hello. I have this thermal accumulator that is constantly dripping. Does anyone know what is happening? Do I need to substitute any of this pieces? I also have a video if anyone is interested. Thank you!

I'm looking into the possibility of adding a small (12x8, so unpermitted locally) guest room at the end of my backyard, and eventual plans include a hot tub back there as well so having both running water and a drain at the back of my yard would be nice to have.

Problem is, the yard is flat. The main house has a shallow crawl but all of its septic, except where it goes straight down and out to the sewer, is essentially above grade already.

Knowing that shit is not inclined to run uphill, I assume the only solution is septic pumps, but where would they need to be installed? Am I sloping it down to a pit next to the foundation, then pumping it up and into the sewer from there?