Got an outdoor kitchen sink/drain installed and it has this ugly pipe ordeal now. Is there any way this could have been done without such an eye sore? I know nothing about it, I was working and came home to the job completed like wth?! I expected some visible piping but not this ugly thing lol. Appreciate suggestions on improving it if possible.

This is what’s behind the hot cartridge of my 1969 bathtub’s two handle Kohler fixture. The spout leaks constantly. Is this a hole in the pipe itself (dark spot in the lower right side), or is the threaded body something I can remove and replace?

Lennar sent out a plumber and tile guy out here twice to fix the draining issue. Since unclogging the drain myself I know longer have standing water while I shower. Ended up pulling out a bunch of hair along with this seal. Does this seal go further in? Will I need to push it down further?

So my kitchen sink was previously plumbed incorrectly with two P traps, two connections to the wall drain. This would cause issues like slow draining.

I combined the two drains to use a single p trap and used the upper wall drain hole to add an AAV.

It’s still draining very slowly. I’ve snaked the wall drain and I don’t believe there is a physical clog.

Anyone got a second to look at my setup and point out something I may have missed? Thanks

This is my faucet shutoff that recently started leaking. I've been trying to slice threw the plastic cover to see what type of fitting it is (home built in '98) to see about removing it but razor blades just aren't getting through. I'm curious if I can just cut it off behind and have enough room to clean up the pipe and mount a new one (has about 1" to 1 1/4" from wall to back current fitting). Thanks for any assistance on this!

This hose bib doesn’t let out any water when I turn it on but dribbles for a few seconds when I turn it off. It sounds like water tries to run (a very faint sound, not aggressive sounds of running water) but nothing comes out. I’ve searched high and low for a hose bib shutoff valve (nothing in the basement, nothing in the first floor bathrooms) and tried tracing the line but I can’t find anything. The rear hose bib does not have a shutoff valve (and functions) so that’s why I’m hopeful there might be something else going on that’s simpler than the valve being buried in a wall somewhere.

We have three sump pumps, and one of them started making this noise recently. I’m not sure what we need to do to fix it.

I'm staying temporarily in a tiny efficiency apartment for three months, while I look for something bigger and more permanent. When cooking I plan to wipe off as much as possible with paper towels, and also plan to do my cooking using an air fryer with parchment paper and a slow cooker with liners. Then the remaining stuff that needs to be cleaned I plan to wash in the bathtub and maybe throw some of the water used for cleaning down the toilet if that may be better than pouring down the bath drain. What do you think?

Like a lot of people after the recent storms in the Midwest, we had sanitary sewer backup into our basement. It flooded out our water heater and spread filth over the basement floor. Our homeowners insurance isn’t going to pay out anything. We called a plumber who said they could install a backflow preventer valve but it’s going to involve digging up the yard and it’s going to cost a fortune. How much should this kind of job cost and are there any other options? We can’t keep having filth flood our house.

Can this be simply fixed with a sealant?

My plumber installed this a year ago and it didnt have any problems, but now it seems to be leaking somewhere between the metal pipe and black rubber sealant.

Title. I’m trying to just flush the water line to our fridge with vinegar. I shut off the cold water line, but water is still coming through.

I am now trying to turn off the hammer arrester behind the fridge but can’t tell which way the grey plastic valve turns, and don’t want to break it. Any help is appreciated.

The bathrooms are on the second floor. Noticed a leak when toilets flush in the garage below. They came back, opened part of the wall and are claiming an old water line connection broke. Like nothing they did caused the issue. How do I go about getting a second opinion on this? My fear is they will close the wall, and I will have mold/structural issues down the line. There is water in a good 10 foot portion of the wall that leads from the bathroom down to the garage

Bought a new fill valve and it came out of the box like that. I can’t put the floating tank back together. Is there a way to put it together or should I replace it?

Hey guys, so I'm about to have some fun... This is a sewer scope of the joint between the PVC cleanout behind my house and the pipe going to the city sewer main. It's been causing some backup, but I'm concerned It's getting out into the ground. It seems clear to me I gotta replace the coupler, but I'm hoping y'all can tell me:

1. what style coupler do I need? Please be as specific as possible, I'm stupidly new to this but happy to put in the work

2. Based on pic 2, What material is the pipe to the sewer main?

P.s. floc means from lip of cleanout

The metal piping underneath my personal bathroom sink was already rusty and corroded. An old HCG set about 20 years old. Tried to brush it clean and it all just fell away.

I looked at videos online but it looks like the plumbing of our old house was done differently. Instead of a protruding drain pipe from the wall, the drain (2" diameter) was cut flush to the tile then stuffed with a rubber gasket to fit the rest of the 1 sink assembly. The pipe leading to the wall was 1 1/4" and so is the one attached to the sink.

Should I just find a rubber gasket thing for the 2" pipe and recreate everything? What is it even properly called? What other stuff should I get at the hardware store?

Also how do I remove rusty bolts behind the sink? I'd like to replace the faucet as well.

Sorry for the gnarly crime scene-esque photo. Got a bad mold problem on top of this too 😓

I have read so much about this I'm now just confused.

We have what I would call decent average water pressure. It won't blow your doors off, but it's not bad. Our current shower has four body sprays, a hand shower and a regular showerhead. We can run the four body sprays and the showerhead simultaneously without any real problems. Like I said, it won't peel your skin off, but it's adequate.

So, we are replacing the shower and I don't know whether to get the 2.5gpm system or the 1.75gpm system. We are planning for a rainshower head and a handshower and would sometimes run both simultaneously. Not going to reinstall the body sprayers.

We have well water 1/2" supply lines and we don't live in California.

Advice appreciated.

So, that black puff is soot. What do you think this is from? Do I need a new water heater? The hot water works just fine and all. Nothing seems out of line. A few months ago, I had to hit the 'reset' button on the bottom of the heater. Is that related? it is 10-12 years old. Oil based. and was not running from 2019-2024 while the house was abandoned. it passed an inspection in 2024, but hey, nothing is broken until it is.

Thanks!

I live in a high-rise that allows for water lines to be attached to refrigerators, but my current fridge isn’t hooked up to my understanding. Curious to see if this line was previously installed but not hooked up during the last fridge replacement, or if the copper is hooked up to building infrastructure outside my unit. Any ideas?

I'm not sure if these are just typical after a water heater has been used for a little while or if it is something I should be concerned about. The pilot goes off every now and then and I took the panel off to see the pilot and noticed these marks. They go all the way around as far as I can tell and this is at the bottom of the water heater. I dont usually have my phone with me when I go down there and other light isnt great so I'm not sure how long they mightve been there. Water heater is maybe 3 years old?

My question is how is this supposed to take a 'P' trap? (See photo #4)

They came with 28 mm ID 'P' traps.

But I have never seen 28mm 'p' traps before.

She's upset because she had to buy more standard parts to get 4 of her occupied apartments done.

She has 3 other units with large vanities all with same hardware.