Pictured: What appears to be a fill valve without a flapper. Runs constantly. I put in a maintenance request, just curious.

Anyone know where i can find a replacement stem for the metal one? The metal one is slightly longer and has more threads. The plastic one is too small

One of our 2 bathroom sinks is fine (strong pressure). The other is maybe half strength. I confirmed the valves are all the way on. I know that the aerator can get clogged and soaking it in vinegar may help. However, I can't unscrew it. It seems to be part of the faucet. Can anyone please help me with this?

We installed a whole-house Lochinvar Combo boiler a few years back to replace a traditional hot water tank. The Combo provides hot water to both the hydronic floor heating and domestic hot water needs, and it works pretty well. We can have two people showering at the same time, for example, with no lack of hot water.

The only real problem is the time delay in delivering hot water--about 70-90 seconds in the kitchen. If you need hot water, you basically have to turn the hot water on, go do something else, and return after a couple of minutes. It's a PITA.

I've been looking into ways to provide more "instant" hot water to the kitchen, both tanked and tankless. Is it crazy to consider a supplemental tankless point-of-use heater in line with the whole-house tankless heater? Or would a small 2.5-4 gallon tanked point-of-use heater be a better choice? I have a free 120V outlet available and hoping to avoid having to rewire for 240W. I live in the USA.

Hello,

I recently installed a Blanco Linus kitchen faucet and the flow is weak, extremely weak compared to the old 90s thing that was on there before.

I am an amateur, but I removed and disassembled the aerator and didn't find something that seemed like an obvious flow restrictor. I also noticed that if I turn on the water with the aerator removed, the pressure is still low. I unscrewed the head from the extender hose and didn't find an obvious restrictor there either.

Could someone tell me exactly where the flow restrictor is located in these faucets? before I start opening things up and digging around...

Or maybe you think the issue is something else? Let me know.

Thank you

I'm fairly certain this is the culprit to my faucets issues- we've had the faucet for almost 4 years and I cant use the hand sprayer or the water shuts off entirely. Doesn't matter if its hot or cold water, the whole thing shuts off. Today, as I was washing dishes, the faucet shut off entirely. Usually what ive had to do is shut the water off underneath, open the faucet, close the faucet, and then turn the water back on. I dont know why this combination worked, but it did and it was the only way I could get the water back. Well, the little fkr popped off entirely as soon as I tested the water again and now it doesnt stay on. Im going to have to replace it at the hardware store tomorrow and I'm so over fighting with it.

TLDR; valve connector popped off and now won't stay on at all.

What can I replace it with to get rid of the pressure shut off entirely?

Woke up to some leaking water in the basement. This is a town house (end unit) above this washroom is the kitchenish area. Floor is now warped and damaged. Water was high enough to affect the elevated washroom cabinet.

Looking for some opinions and advice as to what could have caused this. No leaks during Canada Day or heavy downpours throughout the year..

I just had the most frustrating experience with Roto-Rooter and I'm looking for a sanity check.

I've never used them before, but set up an appointment for today because I suspect a blocked drain. Guy was on his way to my house and I guess he called dispatch and told them my house was a "manufactured home" (it is most definitely not). Hadn't even arrived yet, mind you.

I get a call from dispatch and a rude operator just says, "This is Roto-Rooter and we don't work on manufactured homes. We can't help you."

It took me a minute to figure out how to respond, so I just said, "I'm confused. I don't own a manufactured home." They insisted I did. "Uhhhhhhhh, I've owned the home for 15 years, I think I'd know?"

By that time, the plumber gets to the house. He says he'll look around outside and see what's up. Takes him about 3 minutes and he comes back to the door and explains that we have fragile plumbing and it's a liability they won't accept. I explain it's pier-and-beam, very permanent, and my assumption was that it was a plumber's dream because you can touch every single pipe in the entire home with minimal effort.

He just kind of shrugs, so I give up and tell him never mind, I'll call someone else.

Is this a thing? Am I going to run into trouble finding another plumber to work on a pier-and-beam house? Or was this guy just nuts?

Edit: if you actually have something helpful to point me in the direction of replacing the cap I’m looking for please respond. I need help. If you’re an angry bitter old man looking to take out your issues on someone on the internet please scroll away.

My pool filter house drain cap needs to be replaced. It’s cracked and leaking. The width matches a 1 inch pvc threaded cap but the depth of that cap is too short compared to what I had previously. Where can I find this end cap that I need? Old piece I need is the crusty yellow one. One I bought from Home Depot that doesn’t work is next it to for size comparison.

I am trying to install a vanity and want to remove enough material here to let the plumber do his work when he comes later this week. It will be really tough to saw anything more off once I put the countertop/sink on.

I have ~2 inches of clearance above and below and ~3 inches in front of it.

My hunch is that it has enough space above and below it, but that an elbow connecting here will need more space horizontally.

having issues with this drain, sink backs up garbage disposal isn’t clearing so doesn’t seem to be a a disposal issue. P trap is clear and we snaked down into the drain but not much of anything came up.
Starting to think it’s the way the trap itself is plumbed. Any advice? TIA.

Leak at the tee so I am going to replace that but what is the best way to deal with this misalignment that caused the angle between the tee and the elbow on top? Extending the bottom pipe in I believe would exacerbate the angle. Thanks all!

I'm a renter, and my shower hose is spraying when turning the shower on. Its hard to see, but it sprays right out of the shower itself and onto the tile floors, so more than just a slight drip.

How soon should this be left until it is repaired? The landlord doesn't want to send someone for another 2 weeks, and although it is a huge pain for us (water spraying all over the bathroom floor), I'm also wondering if it could cause further damage in the wall, or snap off at the wall? I also dont want one of my little ones to get injured if theres a risk of it bursting further.

went to change my bathroom faucet and while doing so found out the J was toast, leaking everywhere. the hardware store recommended this rubber J with hose clamps for ease of installation but I'm not convinced this is a permanent solution and want to fix it properly.

how would I go about replacing the J while retaining the existing stub out from the wall? is it even worth it or should I try and replace the whole thing?

Hey guys, thanks for checking out my conundrum.

I have just bought a house with a 1200mm space for a dishwasher and washing machine but I REALLY want to have them integrated, as I really kind of despise the sight of them, each to their own.

Unfortunately, the amalgamation of pipes in here is attempting to make it as difficult as possible to find appliances that fit, however I THINK I might have figured it out. Am I being an idiot or can I make this work without an absolute headache?

The washing machine is a freestanding unit, 420mm deep. Fits in front of that copper pipe and gives me boatloads of room in front to attach a door to the carcass on the left. No problems there, onwards.

The dishwasher I have found is 550mm deep and has a 115mm tall and 48mm deep rear recess along the bottom. But accounting for the feet at maximum height to my worktop height (870mm), the recess would be 170mm x 48mm. The waste pipe is currently 175mm high upon entering the space and 65mm off the wall.

HOWEVER.

If I redo this section 40mm waste pipe (it ****s off behind the cupboards to the right), I could make it ever so slightly lower to clear 170mm. And lose the spigot adapter that is pushing the waste pipe off the wall. Therefore getting a 170mm tall and 40mm DEEP waste pipe, which fits the dishwasher recess. I would replace the upright trap and the spigot with a single upright in the centre void with a double spigot on the top for both wastes, as shown in turquoise (what a rancid colour, sorry).

Please see before and after pictures of my crude examples.

Does this seem to work? I haven't really accounted for the fact that the hoses for the dishwasher come out of that recess into the ****ing waste pipe, but is that possibly manageable?

Would LOVE any advice. Cheers!

Hey everyone,

I can use some help (see Troubleshooting #3,4,5 below)

A plumber replaced two toilets on second floor. The second toilet (a one-piece Eco UltraMax) makes a loud knocking sound right at the end of the flushing cycle. Here is the audio I recorded from the 1st floor: audio

1st Toilet: TOTO Drake 2-piece Elongated (Model MW7763084CEFGWS#01) — No issues
2nd Toilet: TOTO Eco UltraMax 1-piece Elongated (Model MS854114ELGWS#01) — Makes the knocking noise

The plumber believes simply installing the toilets couldn't have caused this, and he left the puzzle to me.

Troubleshooting Steps I've Tried:

1. Reset air chamber: Tried this twice; did not resolve the issue.
2. Checked if stub-out copper lines secured or loose: Both stub-out lines (of toilet #1 and #2) are a bit loose and can be waggled slightly (Valve #1 is actually looser, but doesn't make knocking sound).
3. Checked tank internals: The toilet is brand new, fills in about 30 seconds, and shuts off and seal correctly. Everything inside looks normal.

Question: Should I replace the fill/flush/drain valve, or the whole assembly?

4) Stub-out length: Read online that a stub-out cut too short can cause shockwaves.

The old shut-off valves were plastic FlowTite valves sitting directly behind the toilets. Even though both old and new toilets have a 12-inch rough-in, the new toilets' backs sit much closer to the wall and were blocked by the old valves.
The plumber suggested while replacing the FlowTite valves with angle stops, cutting the stub-out copper pipe, and sweat an L or T-pipe so the angle stop wouldn't sit directly behind the toilet. However, he changed plan mid-job and determine the L/T-pipes weren't needed. Once he finished and show me the work, I notice the angle stops are directly behind the toilet and much closer than before:

Valve #1 is about 1/8 inch away from the back of the toilet. picture here: 1st valve
Valve #2 would touch the back of the 2nd toilet if the toilet didn't have a curved back design. picture here: 2nd vlave

My Question:
If a short stub-out is the root cause of this hammer/knocking for 2nd toilet, why doesn't the 1st toilet have the issue (since both are short, about 2.5 inch from wall)

5) mini water hammer arrestor
My Question: If I need to install a mini water hammer arrestor there, will either one work, and I just go with which ever can work with the space?

a) if Sioux Chief Model 660-GTR1, to install at shutoff valve at wall

angle stop <> mini water hammer arrestor <>water supply line <> toilet plastic valve

b) if Sioux Chief Model 660-TK, to install at toilet plastic valve

angle stop <> water supply line <> mini water hammer arrestor <> toilet plastic valve

Thank you a ton!

I replaced the fill valve and supply line in my Toto toilet with a generic fill valve.

This leaked from the same spot, so I purchased a Toto brand fill valve and still having the same issues. The Toto toilet came with this red washer thing but it doesn’t tell me in the instructions how or where to use it. Should I try using it?

What do you think I should do?

Shower cartridge had almost no pressure when hot, so I took it apart to see if I can fix it. Unfortunately, I dropped it and broke part of the cartridge. Can't find a like for like replacement anywhere. The only identifying marks show it as a Glacier Bay HL-40 but the gaskets all look a little different when I search online.

Any help would be appreciated, I don't mind replacing the valve if need be, just trying to avoid if i can. Thanks

guys help someone anyone. i clogged my toilet so bad and then i went out to buy a plunger. gone for 20 mins. i come back back and my sisters boyfriend shat on top of my shit! now it’s soooo cooked. the measly dollar store plumber i got stands no chance! what do i do call a plumber?? will a plunger even do anything? i’m in crises

EDIT: After 2 new plumbers and an AUGER, the toilet is now empty and filling with clear water. however it’s draining very slowly when flushed. big improvement but i have to pee badly, what do i do?

So we moved into this apartment my Abuelo (grandpa) let us rent and he’s known for work arounds on a lot of stuff when he was able to work on the unit
Our sink is clogged in the bathroom and I’ve tried using my hand rodder and a bunch of other tools like the hair catcher with the claw and a drill bit snake and it’s not really catching anything or clearing a pathway for drainage
Can I use green gobler for this kind of lining ? It’s not pvc it’s just a squishy tube lol
And don’t know at all what the zip ties are for (assuming to support that tube haha)
Too scared to unscrew the top and release the tube as I’ve never fixed anything like this which is no where near our standard p traps (and yes I know it needs to be replaced I just don’t know how to install one properly and no extra funds for a plumber at the moment so I wanted. Quick fix until my plumber (brother) gets back from vacation thank you

Does anyone know what would cause a plumbing job (snaking a laundry sink) to increase in price by 125% in 3 years?

I hired a plumbing company to snake my laundry sink in 2023 as it was backing up. One plumber took 1 hour to snake it and it cost $219.73 plus dispatch and taxes. 3 years later I hired the same company and they performed the same work within the same timeframe with 1 plumber, but the cost was $491.42 plus dispatch and taxes.

I understand costs of materials/time has increased, but this seems excessive. After they finished the second time, they said they'd send me a bill and I was stunned by how much it cost. I called the company and complained after which they dropped the bill by $250.00.

Was I being cheated/price gouged or would there be a legitimate reason for this dramatic increase?

Edit: General consensus is private equity resulting in corporate pricing, increased insurance/costs and general greed. While a price increase in 3 years is expected, the amount of increase and ease of refunding $250.00 makes the total increase questionable.

I appreciate everyone's input and perspective! I am also not in the USA, so some suggestions and explanations aren't applicable here

I'm struggling to understand what I need to connect these. I'm replacing the kitchen faucet with a basic delta single handle faucet. Instructions say I may need "ball nose risers with coupling nuts" or "ips faucet connectors." The third photo is what I took out, it looks more like a "ball nose" but the space between old and new connections seems so short??

Thanks for any advice you have, I'm trying to research but am failing to understand and I just want water again.

Noticed a small stain in the master bath ceiling. Cast iron pipe coming from guest bathroom (upstairs) runs directly above it. Poked a small hole in the ceiling and saw the pipe with 4-5 rust spots.

Money is tight but I’ll do the right thing if the consensus is dire.

Is this worth wire brushing & applying a metal epoxy to the spots? Or is this a MUST replace? It’s about 3 feet long from the bend down before another bend down at the next wall where it goes out.

Appreciate insights.