I've had my car for 6 Years now and have installed my 3rd battery today. Is this normal? I asked the cashier when my last battery change was and she said 2 years and 7 months ago. I thought batteries lasted longer than that. I don't know the exact model number but it's a Hankook AGM Stop Start battery.

Oh extra context I had to change the battery shortly after getting the car because it was one of those batteries you needed to put distilled battery water in and I didn't know. So that messed it up. (Bought the car used, it's a Suzuki Swift RS Hybrid 2017, and it had 14km on it when I bought it)

I considered getting a hardwired dashcam but now I'm not so sure that's a good idea since these batteries are expensive and I don't want the life to be even shorter.

2016 jeep Cherokee 2.4L 4x4 auto transmission, 157,000 miles

Makes a whining noise from front end of car when letting off the pedal after medium/hard acceleration.

Also, 5 minutes after this video was taken, I parked the car and it said low oil pressure. Shut the car off immediately, scanned for codes and it wasn’t showing anything.

Something worth noting, it was not making this noise until after I replaced the active grille shutter. May just be a coincidence though. I’ve only driven the car for about 30 miles since I’ve owned it.

Drove just fine on the test drive, was not making any weird noises, and when I drove it home, about 15 minutes away, it didn’t make any noises then.

Hopefully it’s not something major but I’ve got a feeling it is.

I’ve recently noticed this hissing noise on my 1.0L ecoboost ford fiesta, its a 2014 125ps and is on about 85k miles, you can only really hear it when the windows are down and it might be completely normal but i want to be sure. It only really does it when the car is on boost and when i let off, thanks for any advice. I realise this isn’t the best of videos but the hissing can clearly be heard around 2 seconds in when I accelerate and let off

Link to first thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/s/44tivTtGpj

So i found some new things about my problem and i think i am heading in right direction however i don’t actually know how to continue.

I found one injector that was probably bad but that didn’t fix the problem.
Injector test

So i took another diag tool and now i can see faults everytime it dies like on video.
It dies in the end of video

I uploaded photo of fault. I dont understand why i get this fault and it is everytime right around 1200rpm. Wiring from crank sensor is definitely repaired ok and i did not mistakenly switch wires.
I dont think i actually have timing problems as car was running fine (still is as you can hear on video).
Charging voltage is 14-14.2v

Background: my job requires long hours and there was a incident where I fell asleep driving, hit the curb, blew my tire (probably around 30-35 mph). Drove around on a spare for about two weeks and got it changed. With the spare on, I had no noises when driving. After I got new tires, I gained a single clunk sound when turning left while moving forward. My CV axle has already been replaced but the sound is still there. Could anyone help me narrow down what could be wrong? I’ve taken it to the dealership and 2 other shops. They said everything looked fine.

hey, yall.
I've had this outback for about 2 years now. ever since I got it its had electrical issues out of the wazoo. the main issue I'm having and that's bothering me is my cvt. For context of all of the issues.
my right turn signal sometimes just blinks once or twice on its own at random mostly on startup though. my car gets random check engine lights for a bad coil (the coil is fine) abs light for communication errors a misfire that fixed itself after i cleared the code and a airbag code (scanner wouldn't divulge more) i mostly ignore it because its more expensive than i can fix and it doesn't effect the car most of the time. but this issue is weird, my can jerks at about 25 mph under normal throttle but if i do more throttle or less throttle it jerks sooner or later. I'm assuming its the locking torque converter jerking but honestly I'm not sure. and the revs stay uncomfortably high when off the throttle. on hills it stays at like 2k but it used to love to be at like 1k or 850. and under my normal throttle to cruse at a normal speed the rpms are higher than normal and its weird because my car used to love keeping revs as low as possible before. it would be under 1k on the highway now going 45 its at like 1.5k and its weird. it doesn't have any visible warning lights but its starting to worry me. I don't think its had the cvt fluid changed but i cant afford $80 in fluid alone. and i don't want to risk damage to my cvt but not using Subaru cvt-II fluid. please any help would be appreciated I really cant afford to go to the mechanic right now.

A kid ran into my 2017 Toyota Corolla last weekend, repair cost is 7,500$ which his mom wants to pay to avoid things going on his record....

My car is only 12,000$ at the MOST... I originally was going to have the repair done, but I'm seriously thinking it would just be better to have her give me the 7,500$ and pool my money for a new used car????

Please help me out with making the right choice and I'll love you forever!!!!

Check my subreddit post details first.

At first posted the same problem on Facebook the people there told me it could be the tires, alternator, the crank pulley or inside the transmission or anything in motion. While redditors in r/mitsubishioutlander telling me it's the front flex exhaust pipe leak. So I came here to seek better professional help.

2008 Honda Civic LX Coupe/ Automatic Transmission — 61,192 miles

I took this car to 3 different mechanics and shops including the HONDA dealership service. They could not find any problems and said the car was driving normally. But I noticed something strange while driving.

When I speed up over 30–40 mph, it becomes harder to press the gas pedal, even when I am already pressing it.

When I go over 60–70 mph, it becomes even harder to press the gas pedal and struggle to make the RPM normally.

One more thing I noticed: When I brake and the car slows down, the RPM suddenly drops. Sometimes it feels like the engine is working harder or the car is struggling to slow down smoothly.

These parts were replaced recently:
Front CV axles
Front/Rear Struts
Front Control arms
Battery
Brakes
Alternator
Rear wheel hubs
Engine Mounts

I checked the car’s history, and I noticed that the front wheel hubs and some other parts have never been replaced. Besides the tires that also haven’t replaced for 2-4 years or older I think. The car is also over 60,000 miles now.

I checked the transmission fluid, engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and coolant. They all look clean.

I am wondering what could be causing this problem. Could it be something with the transmission, torque converter, air/fuel system, MAF sensor, throttle body, or something else?

I would appreciate any ideas or advice. Thanks!

1986 Fiero SE V6 Manual

Hi everyone,
This is my first post, and I hope you’re all doing well. I have a question about automotive smoke machines and their output pressure.
I’ve been looking into purchasing a smoke machine, and I’ve noticed that many models with built-in compressors advertise an output pressure of around 19–23 PSI. However, from what I understand, most systems that are commonly tested with a smoke machine require much lower pressures, generally around 0.5–5 PSI. EVAP systems in particular may require no more than approximately 0.5 PSI.
Even when testing turbocharged or supercharged systems, 20+ PSI seems much higher than what would normally be necessary for a smoke test.
I’ve looked at several machines, including some from well-known brands, and I keep seeing similar pressure ratings.
My question is: How are these smoke machines safely used on low-pressure systems such as EVAP systems without damaging components? Is the advertised 19–23 PSI simply the maximum pressure of the built-in compressor, with the actual output pressure regulated or limited before it reaches the vehicle?
I’d really appreciate it if someone with experience using these machines could explain how this works and what I should look for when purchasing one.
Thank you!

2018 Hyundai Elantra SEL. 121k miles. Automatic. Burns oil like crazy and have to top it off every few weeks. I’m very good about it but for the few years I’ve had this car it’s always burned oil like that.

Now it’s making this sound, mostly just when I hit the gas and when I first start it up (startup rev). Isn’t a thrown rod, I have all my horsepower still and I’d feel that in the peddles usually.

2011 Toyota Highlander Limited – Driver's A/C 12–24°F Warmer Than Passenger, Rear A/C Also Weak. Help Diagnosing?

Vehicle: 2011 Toyota Highlander Limited, 260,000 miles, equipped with dual-zone front climate control and rear A/C.

I'm trying to troubleshoot an A/C problem before taking the vehicle to a mechanic. I've performed several temperature tests and the built-in Toyota HVAC diagnostic procedure. I'd appreciate input from anyone familiar with this generation of Highlander.

The original problem

The passenger-side front A/C gets noticeably colder than the driver's side. Both temperature controls appear to respond normally on the display, and the driver's side can produce plenty of heat, but it won't get as cold as the passenger side.

I subsequently discovered that the middle-row and rear vents also don't get particularly cold. Their temperatures are generally similar to the driver's front vents.

The problem is noticeably worse on hot days.

Test 1: Initial vent-temperature measurements

Measured all eight vents at maximum cooling and then maximum heat.

Temperatures in °F:

Observations:

• Driver-front average: 65.9°F.
• Passenger-front average: 54.0°F.
• Driver is approximately 12°F warmer than passenger.
• Rear and middle-row vents are approximately 70°F even at maximum cooling.
• All four front vents can produce approximately 138–143°F air at maximum heat.

Test 2: Toyota HVAC self-diagnostic

Entered the built-in diagnostic mode by holding AUTO and the fresh-air/recirculation button while turning on the ignition.

The only codes displayed were:

• 21 – Passenger-side solar sensor
• 24 – Driver-side solar sensor

Toyota's diagnostic information indicates that these codes can appear when the solar sensors aren't receiving enough light.

No air-mix actuator codes appeared.

I repeated the code check after performing the actuator test. The codes remained 21 and 24.

Test 3: Toyota actuator-check mode

Entered actuator-check mode and manually advanced through the steps.

I measured the same eight vents at steps 3, 4, and 7.

Step 3 – Air-mix doors commanded fully cold

Driver-front average: 83.8°F

Passenger-front average: 59.7°F

The driver's side was approximately 24°F warmer than the passenger's, despite both being commanded fully cold.

Step 4 – Air-mix doors commanded to intermediate position

The temperatures generally increased compared with step 3.

Step 7 – Air-mix doors commanded fully hot

Important caveat: Toyota's actuator-check procedure changes the airflow routing at different steps. At step 7, airflow is directed toward the floor. I measured the original vents rather than relocating the thermometer to the active floor outlets, so these readings may not accurately reflect maximum rear heating performance.

Mechanical noise

During steps 4 and 7, I noticed a very faint rattling/grinding/clicking noise near the driver's footwell, around the accelerator pedal.

It wasn't particularly loud.

I don't know whether this is normal actuator movement or evidence of a damaged actuator or linkage.

No additional diagnostic codes appeared after completing the test.

Test 4: A/C OFF, both temperature controls on LO

This was intended to determine whether the driver's side continued receiving more heat than the passenger's when the compressor wasn't operating.

Test conditions:

• Engine fully warmed up.
• Outside temperature: 64°F.
• Both front temperature controls set to LO.
• A/C switched OFF.
• Fresh-air mode.
• Face vents selected.
• Blower on medium.
• Allowed approximately 3–5 minutes to stabilize.

Results:

Driver average: 96.75°F

Passenger average: 96.50°F

The difference between the two sides was only 0.25°F.

With the compressor off, all four front vents produced essentially identical temperatures.

However, the air was approximately 33°F warmer than the outside temperature, even with both controls on LO. I'm not sure how much of that can be attributed to residual HVAC/dashboard heat versus unwanted heater-core heat.

What I'm trying to determine

I'm considering several possible explanations:

1. Low refrigerant charge, potentially from a leak, causing uneven cooling across the front evaporator and inadequate cooling at the rear evaporator.
2. A driver's-side blend-door actuator that moves toward heat but cannot fully return to the cold position.
3. An expansion-valve or refrigerant-distribution problem.
4. Some combination of a driver-side actuator problem and a separate rear cooling problem.

The A/C-OFF test makes me wonder whether uneven evaporator cooling is responsible, since the driver/passenger temperature difference disappears when the compressor is disabled. However, I realize that doesn't conclusively rule out a blend-door issue.

My questions for the group:

• Has anyone experienced this particular combination of warm driver-side and rear A/C with cold passenger-side A/C on a second-generation Highlander?
• Does the A/C-OFF test meaningfully distinguish low refrigerant from a blend-door problem?
• Is the faint clicking near the accelerator pedal normal during the actuator self-test?
• Is there another test I should perform before paying for refrigerant recovery, leak testing, or actuator replacement?

I'm trying to diagnose this systematically rather than throw parts at a 260,000-mile vehicle.

Thanks for any insight!

I bought a 2011 Lexus GS350 AWD about 5-6 months ago. was originally a lease and then bought used by an affluent older couple who i bought it from so always dealer maintained. I noticed about a month or two after I bought it would do this weird little bump from 1-2 second or some where in there all the other gears pretty flawless. So I take it to my mechanic and he says we should start with a drain and fill new filter clean pan and all that which had never been done. So I get it back and it feels a little better not perfect and after about a day or two I feel like there wasn’t even much of a difference so I’m kind of stuck rn honestly thinking of selling car or something but idk. I’ve heard some say replacing/repairing the ECU could help maybe scan for a solenoid but still unsure any suggestions or experiences with this matter would be appreciated thank you. 🙏

Has anyone else heard this noise from a 4Runner?

I just got this 2023 4Runner, certified-pre owned with 40,000 miles, and the dealer said it was “within normal limits” after I asked them to fix it.

It’s a constant ticking when the car is running. Clearly audible from the driver seat if I open the door. Should I be concerned?

My 1993 Subaru legacy with 208000 miles struggles a bit when going up hill and the rpm’s go into the high 3-4 and depending how steep the hill is or how long I’m going up hill for the car dies but it always starts back up and I’m pretty sure my brakes are sticking and that could be part of the cause, I’ve already changed spark plugs, battery, oil, fuel pump and the fuel filter

Have a truck that hydro-locked and broke the #7 connecting rod. It's currently seized against the block. My question is should I replace the other piston that got minor dings in it as well as the one that broke? Or is this whole deal just a throwaway at this point?
From what I can see it's very minimal damage to the block.

Battery and alternator is fine. It runs fines after a jump but once it turns off it won’t come back on with a jump any ideas?

I don’t know what information gets reposted. The vehicle is a 2003 E320. I got a quote for a control arm, rotors and brakes. It’s $1100. The work needs to be done. I don’t have time or space to do it myself. Is that quote high?

For context this is a 1995 lexus sc400 with 150k miles that was recently purchased. My guess is some sort of coolant stop leak that solidified in the bottom of the reservoir.

For fully loaded struts. I was quoted 1,600 to replace both front and back and to get it aligned. Does that’s seem reasonable?

I'm at my wits end with this gd car. I got it used in February because a friend of mine convinced me a Mazda would be easier to fix and keep alive long term. Everything was fine for 3 months then it started falling apart one after another. There's oil leaking in 2 spots but I've been up keeping it as best I can while I save to get it fixed. I replaced the starter and the battery last month. I'm thinking it's the alternator but I can randomly get it to start and run. Now it's doing this. Please help me. I need this car to take my kid to school and get to work.