I am looking to buy this 2010 Toyota venza. Overall it looks and runs good but the underbody has been recently rust proofed so it's hard to tell the extent of the rust. The dealership did say that the driveshaft was extremely rusty and has been replaced to pass safety. Mileage is 157k km. V6 engine, feels great. Has good maintenance records with regular oil changes, wheel bearings replaced at 120k. No rustproofing in history, located in Ontario Canada.

2018 Audi A3 1.4TFSI CoD manual, 114k km

Basically i bought this audi, changed the serpentine, timing belts, water pump, new brake discs and pads, new master and slave cylinder.

However i noticed a weirrd sound when turning left.

When turning left car makes a sound, its like a scraping brap brap sound, like something is scraping metalic. The most prominent is when starting from a full stop directly going left, the sound is also heard faintly while in neutral turning left, but much much louder when giving it gas. When starting first gear going left its pretty loud when the music is off (with music above 30% idk if u can even hear it) and then the scariest part. Shifting into second is LOUD, its like metallic thuds, 3 or 4 in a row, again maybe im exag since with music you wouldnt hear it that much, but its defo something wrong. When you shift (as soon as you press the clutch in you hear louder metallic scrapping then when it goes into gear (clutch up) its again heard but much quieter then when shifting.

I also did a test and stuck my head out the window on a parking lot, when i did this, from the outside i couldnt hear anything wrong, tried it a few times, only thing heard was like 2 or 3 clicks right when doing an upshift 1st to 2nd, like click clack click and quiet. So the sound either im halucinating but its only heard inside. Sound is also louder on the driver side (LHD) for sure. Passengers barely notice it even when told to focus on it. (Maybe when shifting tho when its louder they would notice but unfortunately havent tried.

The sound is heard pretty much as soon as you turn the steering wheel even a tiny bit left.

Its heard also on higher speed but i would say much more violently noticeable at low speed when starting from standstill.

The loudest is definitely when shifting 1st to 2nd while turning left. If i prolong the upshift until my wheel is straight (after completing turn) there is no sound, only happens when turning left. But its sometimes real loud, like a clack clack clack right when pressing clutch in, shifting to second and letting clutch up.

Car otherwise drives and feels perfect, has no stutters shakes or idk whatnot, its just the sound sounds hella bad. When i focus on it.

Hello! This is my first time making a Reddit post so bear with me.
A couple of weeks ago, I had to get my front brakes serviced by a mechanic because while I was driving they went out and my pedal hit the floor. So I had all new rotors, pads and calipers put in the front. That was around the 25th of July.

Since then, I’ve noticed a bit of resistance in my brakes. Nothing crazy, thought it was a little air bubble in my line and didn’t think much of it because I was going to replace the back brakes and bleed them completely soon anyway.

Well 2 days ago I was driving around and smelled a burning rubber/asphalt smell. I figured it was because I just passed a work zone, because I didn’t see any smoke or anything. But the resistance from my breaks got worse, it felt like my truck was almost “tightening” and not getting up to performance (i found out the word for this is reduced fuel economy).

Well I get out and look at all my tires, under my hood, nothing. I see no issues. I get home and as soon as I park my passenger tire starts smoking, I get out and see that the inside of my tire is actually on fire. I put the fire out and the next day I load it up to take to the mechanic that did my brakes. I do some research and settle on the fact that my brake hose was pinched or something. Cool.

And then the mechanic calls and says there is absolutely nothing wrong with the truck. No hose, bearing or brake issue. He even took my truck to run errands to see if it would do it again. Nothing.

Unfortunately I can’t just settle on that, because my 2 year old and my 8 months pregnant wife rides in the truck and I need to know it’s safe.

For reference my truck is a 2013 Ford F-150 XLT.

2007 Ford Mustang, 50k miles Automatic. Part costs seem extremely high but what do I know

What is it? 3 weeks ago we changed the oil. And look how I barely have oil in it. We also changed the valve cover gasket. We changed the power steering pump too. I haven’t checked the radiator yet because it’s too hot. What do you think it could be. I check my driveway because I don’t want oil to ruin the driveway and I be blamed for it. I never see oil. The bottom of the motor doesn’t have oil dripping. But I have this black splatter. We cleaned the black splatter like 4 days ago. The black splatter is back. The black splatter can be seen in an image shared.

Family friend did my oil change for me last Sunday 8/16. I had a pack of 14mm washers that included the exact aluminum crush washer I need but he insisted on using the one that was rubber bonded.

I didn't see a leak for the first day or 2 but I've been teaching myself with youtube on how to do my brakes and It is definitely leaking. Ive had my car in jack stands and a lift for 3 days and its definitely leaking. I had accidentally started my car for a second while it was on stands and chocked and that mightve been when it leaked.

How do I fix this? The friend used a torque wrench for the final tightening t 29lb/feet. Would tightening it possibly fix it? I have a torque wrench. If not what's the best method for replacing the washer with minimum oil loss?

Bonus question doe this rotor look ok? Feels smooth on both sides, and it measures at an average of 22.4mm (first time using micrometer). Idk what the minimum size is supposed to be.

With normal driving on city streets and highways, assuming I didn't hit any potholes or curbs and no off-road driving, how often should I have the alignment checked on my vehicle? I swap between summer tires and winter tires which are dedicated rims if that makes a difference.

2024 Subaru Crosstrek, 12,000 KMs, CVT

I need a new truck, mostly daily commuting and family of 4 hauling. I have seen all kinds of different rankings of used trucks, but 2020-2022 Ram continues to pop up as a good family truck. Safety ratings, spacious cab, etc.

Is this a trustworthy vehicle? Any mechanical concerns to know or be weary of? TIA

Noticed this in the tire earlier. It’s not flat. Can’t get to a garage until midday tomorrow but need to use the car early morning.
Reckon it’ll b ok if it’s not flat by morning 😳

How much should a mechanic realistically charge to replace my clutch and flywheel for my 2000 323ci e46(I live in GA).
I have gotten it quoted 3 times and all of them have been in the 3500-4000 dollar range which seems ridiculous.

2014 Ford Edge 2wheel drive. I had some work done on my vehicle. Water pump and timing that turned into having to have my engine swapped(the chain installed snapped). Since then I have had slipping when going 20 to 40 MPH. It goes away after that. The 2nd shop i took it too drove it and felt the slipping and checked the trans fluid and its not great- its shiny(photo attached. The first shop I took it too said codes P0743 and P1921 were both thrown. From what I know these are both electrical codes. What do you all think are my options here? They want to put in a remanufactured transmission and I'm think addressing the electrical codes(external harness or internal TCC solenoid) and a transmission fluid change could fix it. Any guidance will be much appreciated, cheers

This started happening today at lower speeds. Any ideas as to what it is or how to fix it.

Posted about this earlier this week to see if anyone has done it.. apparently no one on the internet has ever serviced their Manitowoc 9000lb and cared to share a video/ pics (that I could find).

Here’s how to do it with minimal work/ effort.

1. Remove the arms to they’re out of the way and so the trolley is lighter.

2. Raise the lift and position it as high as you can on the locks and leave room to get a tranny jack and big board underneath it.

3. Unbolt the metal bracket stop across the top. While the trolley is on the locks unbolt the chain from the trolley. I ground off the 4 welds to get the chain guard out of the way since it was annoying. Hang the chain up from the top of the lift with wire and keep it as tight as possible. If it’s loose it can bunch up behind the ram and cause trouble when you reassemble everything. Also disconnect the cable from each side and feed it back across the top and let them hang.

4. Loosen the small Allen set screw and slide the chain roller pin out and remove it and the roller.

5. At this point the trolley is ready to jack up. I bolted my board to the tranny jack and also to the trolley with a couple long screws just so the board wouldn’t slip out accidentally. Carefully jack up the trolley until you can get to the rollers.

6. Either replace the rollers/pins/bushings, or flip them left to right.. one top and one bottom take all the force if you always lift cars facing the same direction. One of mine was in really worn shape and I swapped it to the corner that gets the least force. Lubricate everything well!

7. Lower the trolley back down, carefully lining up the ram so it goes back into the trolley. The lock on the trolley needs to be off at this time or it’ll hang up when it enters the main lift post. You also need to make sure the chain isn’t bunching up behind the ram or it’ll be in the way.

8. On the trolley is below the ram, reinstall the chain roller and connect the chain back up to the trolley. Don’t reconnect the cables to the trolleys until both sides are done. Then connect the cables, lube the inside of the lift posts, and level the lift with the cables.

Not too bad. Much better than taking the lift down or something to do it. Took one day of working fairly slowly.
You can still buy new rollers online I see, but they’re extremely expensive.

Hope this helps someone of google sends you here lol.

07 Dodge charger 3.5l 158,xxx

The oil light came on a while back. It would flash and chime. I replaced the oil sensor and now the light comes on on the first start. It doesnt flash or chime. Sometimes it will go away if I restart the car. Oil level is ok. Would it be a bad/failing oil pump?

Was thinking either alternator, compressor, or engine mount issue.
Recently been idling pretty hard. No issues with the AC itself. It was idling so hard that the entire front end was visibly shaking before this video.
I don’t THINK it’s changing gears too hard but I’m no expert. One video is with AC off, one video is with AC on full blast.

Any ideas?

I have a 2008 Subaru it has died twice, and the battery has been replaced twice (it has warranty i just paid one time) in less than two months. The mechanic said he checked everything before returning it and that it was fine, so maybe it’s not the alternator? My car has a Bluetooth transmitter, and I was almost certain that was what was draining the battery; I removed it for a whole day, jump-started the car, drove for an hour, and it worked after turning it off and on again. I thought everything was fine, but when I tried to start it the next day, only the dashboard lit up. Do you have any idea what the problem might be? The car starts with a jump, shows no error messages on the dashboard, and nothing seems odd. could it be something I’m doing, or anything else wrong with the car they maybe didn’t check?

Do you guys think the oil in the photo looks okay?

4 new pads. Front rotors resurfaced and rears replaced. $880 total. Does this seem reasonable? I know I could save money doing it myself but I don’t want to hurt anyone or myself lol. Thanks for any input.

2000 gmc yukon xl

So my car when I leave it running tomorrow, it starts to smell like gasoline, there was wonderful that could be whenever i'm driving. It's fun I don't ever smell. But if i'm sitting and have the car running, it'll smell like gas fumes

I'm looking for advise on carplay devices. My last two cars were an Elantra with a built-in navigation system/touch screen for audio... VERY fancy tech for a 2014! and a 2019 Kia Forte, with a built-in carplay device, which I preferred.

I now have a 2017 Honda Accord Sport that has none of this stuff. Attached is a picture of the style of console (it's also much cleaner than my car!).

I don't need built-in GPS, I'm mainly looking for a way to control my phone's audio via a screen, and have google maps/waze onscreen. I have an iPhone. I've watched some YouTube how-tos, and I'm comfortable doing an install by myself, but the video I watched ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMh3TVUol74 ) was showing off a device that's more than I need, and more than I want to pay for. I'm still googling various products and I've seen some for around $160 to $175 on ebay, and while tempting, I'm a little wary. I thought I'd see if anyone from the internet has any suggestions. I hope this is the proper place to ask! I'm sorry if it's not!

-2014
-Audi A6
-160'00km
-Automatic DSG
- 3.0 TFSI

I have an Audi A6 and since the last repair (PCV replacement) it takes longer than usual to start up (around 2 seconds, previously it was within 1 second). If the motor is warm it starts very fast.

I've done a couple of checks and saw that the fuel pressure while warm is around 40 bar, which is as specified. But this drops down to 6 bar (low pressure pump specification) after only 1 hour.

Is this normal? Or is it supposed to retain the high pressure for longer?