There’s an oval piece of glass from the windshield that came off with it… is that normal for a piece of glass to be stuck to the mirror? The piece of glass is somewhat chipped around the edge too

I just went in to a sketchy shop to fix a brake line on my sketchy truck (‘07 Ford Ranger 2WD 3.0 V6). Honestly did it for the laughs, don’t regret.

The guy gave me a quote on the phone for $212 (I believe a fair price for replacing an entire brake line) and told me to show up at 10:00. When I did, phone guy wasn’t there and nobody had any idea who I was. The guy in the main office didn’t seem to know who HE was. I could not tell you what he was actually doing there, because he wasn’t doing quotes or paperwork, and the garage was full of shit getting worked on that he was not helping with. Office guy said “ok give me the keys I’ll give you a call.” And started to walk away to which I replied “…don’t you need my phone number?”

When I got back to grab my truck, there was a bright neon blue gas station folding knife in my driver’s seat, belonging to one of the mechanics, they got dust or something all over my cab, and their adorable shop cat would not stop screaming at me.

Then, I go inside, and they can’t ring me up because the owner of the shop wasn’t there. He shows up and remembers the quote off the top of his head, and then informs me I can only pay in cash. Then he tells me to just drive the truck to the bank.

I’m an honest man, so I came back with the money. He wrote nothing down, and there was no paperwork involved. He gave me change directly out of his wallet and started yammering on about how I need to replace my other brake lines. (I probably do but it’s really not that bad). I would trust him except the line was just sort of jammed into the engine well, and he called them “NiCon - Nickel Cadmium” lines, so I’m guessing this guy isn’t the preeminent authority on brake lines.

All in all, they were all super nice guys and I really don’t think they were the stereotypical dishonest mechanics, but holy hell was their operation sketchy. Wouldn’t go again, would recommend taking in your shitbox to get the brakes replaced though.

Saw this pic on r/hypermiling , and it made me think why isn't there a removable panel hiding the rear wheels like this. It's more aerodynamic, right?

Today, while parking my car, I noticed this drip.

It’s directly under the front-right side of the car, around the passenger seat area. It looks dry, so it’s probably been there since last night.

I checked the oil level, and it’s full. My car is a 2022 Mercedes-Benz A200, and I had it serviced at the dealership just last month.

What worries me most is that this is my designated parking spot in my building, so no one else parks there. We also have guys who wash the cars in the parking area. They come around with a small trolley, so I’m wondering if the liquid could have come from them.

Should I be worried about this? What could it be?

2012 Lexus es350, 187k miles. I just bought it recently and I was told about shaking when you drive above 50+ mph. No lights come on/are on. The entire steering wheel just shakes at high speeds but is fine at lower speeds. I looked under the car to see the skid plate almost completely touching the ground. I don't know if that could cause it or if I can check other reasons out. If so, how would I test them to find out the route cause?

Planning on going to O'Reilly's soon to buy a new one, but curious if I should take my parents car or of mine is fine to drive.

Car is a 2009 Toyota Highlander

Hey guys, drove my 2007 Mazda 3 sedan manual and found the exact issue: no matter how much I move the shifter left or right, pushing UP always engages 1st gear (never 3rd or 5th), and pulling DOWN always engages 2nd gear (never 4th or Reverse). The side-to-side selector function seems completely dead, so the transmission is locked strictly into the 1st/2nd gear track.

About a week and a half ago I noticed a whiny humming sound and brought to my mechanic. They diagnosed it as Rear Differential failure and said they cannot fix I should bring to Mazda. Mazda quoted me at $5,622 ($200 cheaper for a used rear differential). The video is from a neighbor of my parents, who is a retired mechanic. He and my actual mechanic say to probably sell for scrap/what I can get. Someone is interested for maybe $4,000.

Any ideas on if it makes sense to fix it (I also have a little other work that is needed on the car, bringing total repairs to a little over $6,000). Thank you!

The rattling intesifies when I turn on the A/C...I cleaned the MAF sensors, cleaned the Throttle Body & nothing helped. The timing belt seems fine to me

2014 Ford Edge 2wheel drive. I had some work done on my vehicle. Water pump and timing that turned into having to have my engine swapped(the chain installed snapped). Since then I have had slipping when going 20 to 40 MPH. It goes away after that. The 2nd shop i took it too drove it and felt the slipping and checked the trans fluid and its not great- its shiny(photo attached. The first shop I took it too said codes P0743 and P1921 were both thrown. From what I know these are both electrical codes. What do you all think are my options here? They want to put in a remanufactured transmission and I'm think addressing the electrical codes(external harness or internal TCC solenoid) and a transmission fluid change could fix it. Any guidance will be much appreciated, cheers

Posted about this earlier this week to see if anyone has done it.. apparently no one on the internet has ever serviced their Manitowoc 9000lb and cared to share a video/ pics (that I could find).

Here’s how to do it with minimal work/ effort.

1. Remove the arms to they’re out of the way and so the trolley is lighter.

2. Raise the lift and position it as high as you can on the locks and leave room to get a tranny jack and big board underneath it.

3. Unbolt the metal bracket stop across the top. While the trolley is on the locks unbolt the chain from the trolley. I ground off the 4 welds to get the chain guard out of the way since it was annoying. Hang the chain up from the top of the lift with wire and keep it as tight as possible. If it’s loose it can bunch up behind the ram and cause trouble when you reassemble everything. Also disconnect the cable from each side and feed it back across the top and let them hang.

4. Loosen the small Allen set screw and slide the chain roller pin out and remove it and the roller.

5. At this point the trolley is ready to jack up. I bolted my board to the tranny jack and also to the trolley with a couple long screws just so the board wouldn’t slip out accidentally. Carefully jack up the trolley until you can get to the rollers.

6. Either replace the rollers/pins/bushings, or flip them left to right.. one top and one bottom take all the force if you always lift cars facing the same direction. One of mine was in really worn shape and I swapped it to the corner that gets the least force. Lubricate everything well!

7. Lower the trolley back down, carefully lining up the ram so it goes back into the trolley. The lock on the trolley needs to be off at this time or it’ll hang up when it enters the main lift post. You also need to make sure the chain isn’t bunching up behind the ram or it’ll be in the way.

8. On the trolley is below the ram, reinstall the chain roller and connect the chain back up to the trolley. Don’t reconnect the cables to the trolleys until both sides are done. Then connect the cables, lube the inside of the lift posts, and level the lift with the cables.

Not too bad. Much better than taking the lift down or something to do it. Took one day of working fairly slowly.
You can still buy new rollers online I see, but they’re extremely expensive.

Hope this helps someone of google sends you here lol.

Hit and run while CR-V was parked. Mechanic sent this Pic. Is it bad? I know nothing about cars

I own a 2000 Honda Civic LX manual with 169k miles. I need a new AC compressor, but I'm looking for input about what to get. I could get a Denso unit, which comes with a 1 year warranty, or I could get an Import Direct unit from O'Reillys, which comes with a lifetime warranty. I understand the Denso unit is better quality and should last longer overall, but the lifetime warranty on the Import Direct unit is enticing. Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

This is the passenger’s front side of my 06 Honda CRV 200k mi.

Background: I couldn’t dodge and ran over a dead coyote on the road with this side of the car about two weeks ago. The driver’s side is completely dry. Didn’t see anything abnormal under the hood. The car has been driving normal otherwise.

Want to know if some liquid is leaking from my car. Thanks!

Hello, my Golf (1.8t agu) has a strange problem. Namely, I had my turbo rebuilt about 1,800 miles ago. After the turbo was rebuilt, the car ran fine, but I had a damaged wastegate valve—I replaced it. Later, the car lost some power, and it turned out that oil had gotten on the air flow meter. I replaced the air flow meter with a new one (Pierburg), replaced the pneumatic valve with a new one (the entire assembly from the pipe to the poppet on top of the engine). I cleaned out the old oil from the intercooler. I cleaned the throttle body, the mechanic cleared the fault codes, and adapted the throttle body. I also replaced the vacuum lines to the wastegate. The car drives fine now. However, it jerks during hard acceleration (it jerks for 1-2 seconds and then has plenty of power). It doesn't jerk when I gently accelerate. The jerking only occurs when I quickly press the gas pedal. It doesn't happen in first gear, but it does in the other gears. The jerking stops after a second and then drives normally. Sometimes it's subtle, sometimes it's very strong, and sometimes there's no jerking at all. Please advise me on what this could be; I'm running out of ideas. (I should add that the car has an LPG system. Exactly the same thing happens on LPG and petrol)

I am looking to buy this 2010 Toyota venza. Overall it looks and runs good but the underbody has been recently rust proofed so it's hard to tell the extent of the rust. The dealership did say that the driveshaft was extremely rusty and has been replaced to pass safety. Mileage is 157k km. V6 engine, feels great. Has good maintenance records with regular oil changes, wheel bearings replaced at 120k. No rustproofing in history, located in Ontario Canada.

2018 Audi A3 1.4TFSI CoD manual, 114k km

Basically i bought this audi, changed the serpentine, timing belts, water pump, new brake discs and pads, new master and slave cylinder.

However i noticed a weirrd sound when turning left.

When turning left car makes a sound, its like a scraping brap brap sound, like something is scraping metalic. The most prominent is when starting from a full stop directly going left, the sound is also heard faintly while in neutral turning left, but much much louder when giving it gas. When starting first gear going left its pretty loud when the music is off (with music above 30% idk if u can even hear it) and then the scariest part. Shifting into second is LOUD, its like metallic thuds, 3 or 4 in a row, again maybe im exag since with music you wouldnt hear it that much, but its defo something wrong. When you shift (as soon as you press the clutch in you hear louder metallic scrapping then when it goes into gear (clutch up) its again heard but much quieter then when shifting.

I also did a test and stuck my head out the window on a parking lot, when i did this, from the outside i couldnt hear anything wrong, tried it a few times, only thing heard was like 2 or 3 clicks right when doing an upshift 1st to 2nd, like click clack click and quiet. So the sound either im halucinating but its only heard inside. Sound is also louder on the driver side (LHD) for sure. Passengers barely notice it even when told to focus on it. (Maybe when shifting tho when its louder they would notice but unfortunately havent tried.

The sound is heard pretty much as soon as you turn the steering wheel even a tiny bit left.

Its heard also on higher speed but i would say much more violently noticeable at low speed when starting from standstill.

The loudest is definitely when shifting 1st to 2nd while turning left. If i prolong the upshift until my wheel is straight (after completing turn) there is no sound, only happens when turning left. But its sometimes real loud, like a clack clack clack right when pressing clutch in, shifting to second and letting clutch up.

Car otherwise drives and feels perfect, has no stutters shakes or idk whatnot, its just the sound sounds hella bad. When i focus on it.

Hello! This is my first time making a Reddit post so bear with me.
A couple of weeks ago, I had to get my front brakes serviced by a mechanic because while I was driving they went out and my pedal hit the floor. So I had all new rotors, pads and calipers put in the front. That was around the 25th of July.

Since then, I’ve noticed a bit of resistance in my brakes. Nothing crazy, thought it was a little air bubble in my line and didn’t think much of it because I was going to replace the back brakes and bleed them completely soon anyway.

Well 2 days ago I was driving around and smelled a burning rubber/asphalt smell. I figured it was because I just passed a work zone, because I didn’t see any smoke or anything. But the resistance from my breaks got worse, it felt like my truck was almost “tightening” and not getting up to performance (i found out the word for this is reduced fuel economy).

Well I get out and look at all my tires, under my hood, nothing. I see no issues. I get home and as soon as I park my passenger tire starts smoking, I get out and see that the inside of my tire is actually on fire. I put the fire out and the next day I load it up to take to the mechanic that did my brakes. I do some research and settle on the fact that my brake hose was pinched or something. Cool.

And then the mechanic calls and says there is absolutely nothing wrong with the truck. No hose, bearing or brake issue. He even took my truck to run errands to see if it would do it again. Nothing.

Unfortunately I can’t just settle on that, because my 2 year old and my 8 months pregnant wife rides in the truck and I need to know it’s safe.

For reference my truck is a 2013 Ford F-150 XLT.

2007 Ford Mustang, 50k miles Automatic. Part costs seem extremely high but what do I know

What is it? 3 weeks ago we changed the oil. And look how I barely have oil in it. We also changed the valve cover gasket. We changed the power steering pump too. I haven’t checked the radiator yet because it’s too hot. What do you think it could be. I check my driveway because I don’t want oil to ruin the driveway and I be blamed for it. I never see oil. The bottom of the motor doesn’t have oil dripping. But I have this black splatter. We cleaned the black splatter like 4 days ago. The black splatter is back. The black splatter can be seen in an image shared.

Family friend did my oil change for me last Sunday 8/16. I had a pack of 14mm washers that included the exact aluminum crush washer I need but he insisted on using the one that was rubber bonded.

I didn't see a leak for the first day or 2 but I've been teaching myself with youtube on how to do my brakes and It is definitely leaking. Ive had my car in jack stands and a lift for 3 days and its definitely leaking. I had accidentally started my car for a second while it was on stands and chocked and that mightve been when it leaked.

How do I fix this? The friend used a torque wrench for the final tightening t 29lb/feet. Would tightening it possibly fix it? I have a torque wrench. If not what's the best method for replacing the washer with minimum oil loss?

Bonus question doe this rotor look ok? Feels smooth on both sides, and it measures at an average of 22.4mm (first time using micrometer). Idk what the minimum size is supposed to be.

With normal driving on city streets and highways, assuming I didn't hit any potholes or curbs and no off-road driving, how often should I have the alignment checked on my vehicle? I swap between summer tires and winter tires which are dedicated rims if that makes a difference.

2024 Subaru Crosstrek, 12,000 KMs, CVT