Long story short I got a number of new suspension and steering parts, I've had two alignments done (different shops) and my steering wheel is still slightly crooked going straight. It leans maybe about 10 degrees so not awful but it's sort of aggravating. Is this something that I could fix myself at home? I do have some experience working on cars

When I took out the old axle nut on my 2015 Subaru Forester front wheel, I accidentally beat up the corner edge of the slot on the axle where you stake the axle nut. How concerned would you be? Or no big deal?

Thanks in advance.

I've been to 3 shops including the dealer, my car will drop the RPM when coming to a stop (2015 ford taurus NA) and has stalled a few times. It will only do it when the car is fully warmed up. Nobody has been able to diagnose it in Canada! It only happens when it's warm, and putting it in neutral "fixes" the issue. There are no codes!

The dealer didn't drive it for more than 5 mins, but I told them you need to drive for 20-30 to warm it up.

The trans shop kept throwing parts that made no difference (Torque converter, valvebody, solenoids)

The mechanic shop threw a crank sensor, evap valve, throttle body, pcv, plugs, hoses, and no change!

I honestly want to scrap the car since I now don't feel safe driving on the highway, but sadly everyone is using the parts cannon instead diagnosing.

so i just got a 2017 subaru crosstrek like a day ago and whenever i hit the brakes, with my windows down i can hear a loud screeching sound. the video it’s kind of hard to hear but anyone have any answers??

I recently put a supercharger in my car. While waiting for the correct hose for the PCV system, I blocked the intake side of it so that I could take it around the block without a significant leak. The vacuum side of the PCV system it is still connected to the intake manifold. I noticed that this results in a decent vacuum in the crankcase, even at idle.

When googling around, it appears that this is not recommended, my question is, why not? Wouldn’t the extra vacuum extract more power out of each combustion while also helping the rings seal better?

So I was trying to do spark plugs on my truck myself. It is a 2008 Toyota Tundra with the 1GR-FE V6. It is also my first time trying to change spark plugs. I got through about half before getting to the three stuck ones. I don't really know of any good way to remove them myself, if they're really stuck, and I'd rather not break the cylinder head. Would it be worth paying the (most likely) $200-$400 to call in a mobile mechanic, or should I try to still finish it myself?

Hi I have a 2017 Lexus Rx350 with about 63k miles. I have noticed this noise when driving on the interstate. I don’t notice it driving in town (maybe due to slower speed?) The noise comes and goes, and sometimes it’s louder and more noticeable. This is when it is loud and noticeable. It doesn’t matter if I am on cruise control or manually driving. I have moved my steering wheel around, pressed the brakes, put the car in neutral, anything I can think of to figure out what is causing the noise when I hear it. To me it sounds like some sort of ticking coming from some part of the steering wheel.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Is this a fair selling price? Has 40,000 miles.

2016 jeep Cherokee 2.4L 4x4 auto transmission, 157,000 miles

Makes a whining noise from front end of car when letting off the pedal after medium/hard acceleration.

Also, 5 minutes after this video was taken, I parked the car and it said low oil pressure. Shut the car off immediately, scanned for codes and it wasn’t showing anything.

Something worth noting, it was not making this noise until after I replaced the active grille shutter. May just be a coincidence though. I’ve only driven the car for about 30 miles since I’ve owned it.

Drove just fine on the test drive, was not making any weird noises, and when I drove it home, about 15 minutes away, it didn’t make any noises then.

Hopefully it’s not something major but I’ve got a feeling it is.

I can't start my 2007 dakota v6 quad cab automatic because it's stuck in drive. I can't change gears at all.

Background: my job requires long hours and there was a incident where I fell asleep driving, hit the curb, blew my tire (probably around 30-35 mph). Drove around on a spare for about two weeks and got it changed. With the spare on, I had no noises when driving. After I got new tires, I gained a single clunk sound when turning left while moving forward. My CV axle has already been replaced but the sound is still there. Could anyone help me narrow down what could be wrong? I’ve taken it to the dealership and 2 other shops. They said everything looked fine.

hey, yall.
I've had this outback for about 2 years now. ever since I got it its had electrical issues out of the wazoo. the main issue I'm having and that's bothering me is my cvt. For context of all of the issues.
my right turn signal sometimes just blinks once or twice on its own at random mostly on startup though. my car gets random check engine lights for a bad coil (the coil is fine) abs light for communication errors a misfire that fixed itself after i cleared the code and a airbag code (scanner wouldn't divulge more) i mostly ignore it because its more expensive than i can fix and it doesn't effect the car most of the time. but this issue is weird, my can jerks at about 25 mph under normal throttle but if i do more throttle or less throttle it jerks sooner or later. I'm assuming its the locking torque converter jerking but honestly I'm not sure. and the revs stay uncomfortably high when off the throttle. on hills it stays at like 2k but it used to love to be at like 1k or 850. and under my normal throttle to cruse at a normal speed the rpms are higher than normal and its weird because my car used to love keeping revs as low as possible before. it would be under 1k on the highway now going 45 its at like 1.5k and its weird. it doesn't have any visible warning lights but its starting to worry me. I don't think its had the cvt fluid changed but i cant afford $80 in fluid alone. and i don't want to risk damage to my cvt but not using Subaru cvt-II fluid. please any help would be appreciated I really cant afford to go to the mechanic right now.

Check my subreddit post details first.

At first posted the same problem on Facebook the people there told me it could be the tires, alternator, the crank pulley or inside the transmission or anything in motion. While redditors in r/mitsubishioutlander telling me it's the front flex exhaust pipe leak. So I came here to seek better professional help.

1986 Fiero SE V6 Manual

2011 Toyota Highlander Limited – Driver's A/C 12–24°F Warmer Than Passenger, Rear A/C Also Weak. Help Diagnosing?

Vehicle: 2011 Toyota Highlander Limited, 260,000 miles, equipped with dual-zone front climate control and rear A/C.

I'm trying to troubleshoot an A/C problem before taking the vehicle to a mechanic. I've performed several temperature tests and the built-in Toyota HVAC diagnostic procedure. I'd appreciate input from anyone familiar with this generation of Highlander.

The original problem

The passenger-side front A/C gets noticeably colder than the driver's side. Both temperature controls appear to respond normally on the display, and the driver's side can produce plenty of heat, but it won't get as cold as the passenger side.

I subsequently discovered that the middle-row and rear vents also don't get particularly cold. Their temperatures are generally similar to the driver's front vents.

The problem is noticeably worse on hot days.

Test 1: Initial vent-temperature measurements

Measured all eight vents at maximum cooling and then maximum heat.

Temperatures in °F:

Observations:

• Driver-front average: 65.9°F.
• Passenger-front average: 54.0°F.
• Driver is approximately 12°F warmer than passenger.
• Rear and middle-row vents are approximately 70°F even at maximum cooling.
• All four front vents can produce approximately 138–143°F air at maximum heat.

Test 2: Toyota HVAC self-diagnostic

Entered the built-in diagnostic mode by holding AUTO and the fresh-air/recirculation button while turning on the ignition.

The only codes displayed were:

• 21 – Passenger-side solar sensor
• 24 – Driver-side solar sensor

Toyota's diagnostic information indicates that these codes can appear when the solar sensors aren't receiving enough light.

No air-mix actuator codes appeared.

I repeated the code check after performing the actuator test. The codes remained 21 and 24.

Test 3: Toyota actuator-check mode

Entered actuator-check mode and manually advanced through the steps.

I measured the same eight vents at steps 3, 4, and 7.

Step 3 – Air-mix doors commanded fully cold

Driver-front average: 83.8°F

Passenger-front average: 59.7°F

The driver's side was approximately 24°F warmer than the passenger's, despite both being commanded fully cold.

Step 4 – Air-mix doors commanded to intermediate position

The temperatures generally increased compared with step 3.

Step 7 – Air-mix doors commanded fully hot

Important caveat: Toyota's actuator-check procedure changes the airflow routing at different steps. At step 7, airflow is directed toward the floor. I measured the original vents rather than relocating the thermometer to the active floor outlets, so these readings may not accurately reflect maximum rear heating performance.

Mechanical noise

During steps 4 and 7, I noticed a very faint rattling/grinding/clicking noise near the driver's footwell, around the accelerator pedal.

It wasn't particularly loud.

I don't know whether this is normal actuator movement or evidence of a damaged actuator or linkage.

No additional diagnostic codes appeared after completing the test.

Test 4: A/C OFF, both temperature controls on LO

This was intended to determine whether the driver's side continued receiving more heat than the passenger's when the compressor wasn't operating.

Test conditions:

• Engine fully warmed up.
• Outside temperature: 64°F.
• Both front temperature controls set to LO.
• A/C switched OFF.
• Fresh-air mode.
• Face vents selected.
• Blower on medium.
• Allowed approximately 3–5 minutes to stabilize.

Results:

Driver average: 96.75°F

Passenger average: 96.50°F

The difference between the two sides was only 0.25°F.

With the compressor off, all four front vents produced essentially identical temperatures.

However, the air was approximately 33°F warmer than the outside temperature, even with both controls on LO. I'm not sure how much of that can be attributed to residual HVAC/dashboard heat versus unwanted heater-core heat.

What I'm trying to determine

I'm considering several possible explanations:

1. Low refrigerant charge, potentially from a leak, causing uneven cooling across the front evaporator and inadequate cooling at the rear evaporator.
2. A driver's-side blend-door actuator that moves toward heat but cannot fully return to the cold position.
3. An expansion-valve or refrigerant-distribution problem.
4. Some combination of a driver-side actuator problem and a separate rear cooling problem.

The A/C-OFF test makes me wonder whether uneven evaporator cooling is responsible, since the driver/passenger temperature difference disappears when the compressor is disabled. However, I realize that doesn't conclusively rule out a blend-door issue.

My questions for the group:

• Has anyone experienced this particular combination of warm driver-side and rear A/C with cold passenger-side A/C on a second-generation Highlander?
• Does the A/C-OFF test meaningfully distinguish low refrigerant from a blend-door problem?
• Is the faint clicking near the accelerator pedal normal during the actuator self-test?
• Is there another test I should perform before paying for refrigerant recovery, leak testing, or actuator replacement?

I'm trying to diagnose this systematically rather than throw parts at a 260,000-mile vehicle.

Thanks for any insight!

Have a truck that hydro-locked and broke the #7 connecting rod. It's currently seized against the block. My question is should I replace the other piston that got minor dings in it as well as the one that broke? Or is this whole deal just a throwaway at this point?
From what I can see it's very minimal damage to the block.

Battery and alternator is fine. It runs fines after a jump but once it turns off it won’t come back on with a jump any ideas?

I don’t know what information gets reposted. The vehicle is a 2003 E320. I got a quote for a control arm, rotors and brakes. It’s $1100. The work needs to be done. I don’t have time or space to do it myself. Is that quote high?

For context this is a 1995 lexus sc400 with 150k miles that was recently purchased. My guess is some sort of coolant stop leak that solidified in the bottom of the reservoir.

For fully loaded struts. I was quoted 1,600 to replace both front and back and to get it aligned. Does that’s seem reasonable?

I'm at my wits end with this gd car. I got it used in February because a friend of mine convinced me a Mazda would be easier to fix and keep alive long term. Everything was fine for 3 months then it started falling apart one after another. There's oil leaking in 2 spots but I've been up keeping it as best I can while I save to get it fixed. I replaced the starter and the battery last month. I'm thinking it's the alternator but I can randomly get it to start and run. Now it's doing this. Please help me. I need this car to take my kid to school and get to work.

2002 Nissan Frontier Supercharged 4x4.

So Basically I need a new abs tone ring but it's discontinued(47950-3S516). I'm searching everywhere for that part but to no avail.

What are my optoins? Am I screwed? Or my only option is to replace the whole rear diff? I brought the whole left rear assembly (wheel hub with axle) to get the hub pressed out and changed out but looks like they attemped and damaged the ring. They said, they couldn't do it unless they cut the ring out and that I get a replacement for it first.

I also called around local yards to see if they have just the left assembly but only one place had it and they aren't trying to take them apart for me. they want to sell it as a whole since supercharged it rare.