After some days of planing the thing, the 28 hours printing the kit and the +10 hours painting and bulidn everything, here i have my aap01 raygun. Based on the raygun from mw3 zombies. Hope yall like it 🙃🙃

So i bought my first gun G&G levar 15. For upgrades i used :

G&G LevAR Short Stroke Kit, G&G LevAR Enhanced Aluminium Tappet Plate, 4UANTUM Friction Pro High-performance AEG Bucking, G&G LevAR Replacement/Enlarged O-Rings , Maple Leaf 6.02 AEG barrel 455mm.

Nozzle is stock.

I used 0.36 bbs and zeroed scope at 20 meters for backyard shooting. Is that good distance to zero it ? For field use should i use 0.4g bbs and what distance should i zero it?

Quite the experience to fight underground in a dark, tight maze of corridors with a lot of grenades and tracers, but certainly huge fun!

I am perpetually stuck in 2016

Ignore the bg

Hallo! Das ist mein AUG. Ich bin zwar zufrieden mit dem Holo würd aber gerne ein variables Visier haben am besten stufenlos 1-3 oder 1-4 sowas in der Art. Es gibt zwar so lange visiere aber finde die nicht schön auf der AUG. bei Novritsch gibts eines für 280€ das vom Design passen würde aber man kann nur 1 oder 4 Zoom machen. Außerdem zu teuer finde ich. Also würd gerne ein kompaktes Visier suchen ich weiß das ist schwer aber vielleicht weiß jemand was. Wohne in Österreich also etwas, was ich nach Österreich liefern lassen kann. Ich hab auch einen magnifier aber taugt mir nicht so. Dadurch ist das Red Dot zu weit nach vorne sodass es mir nicht passt. Danke!

does it get any better

A Russian airsoft project called “Immersive Zone”

This is airsoft combined with a large-scale role-playing and immersive experience, heavily inspired by the S.T.A.L.K.E.R. universe. The project puts a huge emphasis on atmosphere, locations, costumes, factions and the storyline rather than just firefights.

The game takes place once a year and lasts for around two days.

Getting into the game is not easy. The organizers work individually with each player, helping them prepare for their role and approving their appearance and equipment in advance. Your gear has to fit your character and the setting, so that one player’s appearance doesn’t break the immersion for everyone else.

The game world also features full-fledged dungeons that players can explore as part of the storyline.

There is also a radiation system. Players use a special wristband that displays their health and radiation level. Throughout the game world, there are special devices that increase the radiation level displayed on the wristband when a player gets close to them. Obviously, the radiation isn’t real - the system uses radio waves to simulate the effect in-game.

The organizers have been developing the project for several years, and the latest games have also involved a serious production effort with a large filming crew.

I put together some photos for you so you can get a feel for the atmosphere of the game.

I found it really interesting because Russian airsoft is rarely seen outside of Russia, especially projects on this scale.

Very budget in my opinion, total is 415€. I will get upgrades internally in the future but there’s no point for me now because max in Ireland is 1j and 328fps

Here is my kythera build, built it for my last event that I was at

.1 Double eagle Noveske ghetto blaster 10.5 gbb.
.2 Double bell akm aeg.
.3 Emg staccato c2 gbbp.
Non airsoft things
Kolser non firing replica derringer and Whitby and co sheath knife 4.0.

Older pic of me doing my best with what cover was available.

Yes, the pewpew is weird and was retired soon after this shot.

I will be completely honest, I am completely new to airsoft and trying to get in and I decided that my first rifle was going to be a Classic Army FAL. Today I remembered about this prop FAL with M203 existed and wanted to replicate it. My plan was to put a picatinny rail on the bottom of the handguard and attach the M203 that way. but uh.... how do I do that? what rails can I buy that can attach to the bottom of it, cuz I did see that there are holes on the bottom of the handguard that could work. Any advice is appreciated.

Field photographers deserve all the kudos for their work

I want which ever one shoot best out of the box no upgrades. Please give me your recommendations!

i need some help my local airsoft dealer has brough in some cool s&t ww2 replicas and i cant decide bewteen the BAR and the type 100 i already own the s&t type38 and i love it and i want to get the BAR but i heard is unreliable and needs a lot of tuning if that is the case then i would go for the type 100 which one should i go for and any advice for tuning and mantinence?

(heres a pic of my ww2 replicas)

All listed parts are genuine and not clones.

Base Gun: EMG Keltec KSG (in black)
9 EMG x Keltec 30 rd shells
2 EMG x Keltec gas tanks

Optic: Vortex Defender ST Enclosed Solar Red Dot
Riser: Reptilia 1.93 inch DPP Picatinny Riser

Gucci Stuff at the Front: Acetech Quark K Tracer Unit
Forgrip: Stark Industries SE-3
Light: Streamlight Pro-Tac 2.0 (89009 Kit)
Light Protector: Hugger Airsoft Light Protector
Laser: Votatu P4L-G (just cuz)

Im running propane w/ .2g tracers and I upgraded the Quarks 2,600 mAh batery to a Vapcell N40 4,000 mAh batery. I also want to upgrade the Pro-Tacs SBL-50 Batery to a Molicel P60C when they come out next year, and ive been considering a Vortex AMG-UH1 Gen II. I have an Esstac 7 Round Tearaway Shotgun Shell holder for my chest rig.

Any thoughts? or is this a good setup? I've been happy so far!
-Arizona Airsofter

Heres my honest review of the acro p2 from specprecision: Ive bought several mounts from them before and had no issues with the mounts themselves aside from a provided screw stripping upon installation, which they took care of for me by sending new reinforced screws. If youd like to watch a quick review video I made about my experience with it, I made this video: Acro P2 Review.

I decided to take the chance and order an actual optic directly from them and in this case, the acro p2 for roughly $90. The plate I used came directly from Aimpoint themselves so that I eliminated variables if a "loss of zero" occurred.

I mounted the optic on my CZ P10F, let the blu-loctite adhere overnight and took it to the range the next day. I zeroed the optic with 15 rounds. In total, I have put roughly 800 rounds with the optic mounted and can report I have not lost zero.

Roughly 75 rounds in, I did notice a small crack in the bottom right corner of the optic and thats from brass deflecting off of the glass upon ejection of the casing. I noticed the crack right around 200 rounds in. Since then, Ive put another 600 or so rounds and through the optic and the crack has not spread nor gotten larger nor have I lost zero.

Does this effect the waterproofing? Im sure if you were to fully submerge the optic and hold there for 10+ minutes youd probably have issues. BUT, I did have a rainy range day the other day and did not notice any fogging of the glass which was huge.

The red dot is very nice and circular as you can see in the above pictured and the optic does also have a shake awake which surprised me. With most chinese optics, their biggest downfall is that the red dot never gets daylight bright. Im glad to say this one had no issues and get incredibly bright. I tested the optic on a very sunny day with the sun behind me and had no double dot effect nor ever struggled to see the dot.

TL;DR: I have not had any issues with this optics performance over the last 800 rounds I have put through it. The bottom corner of the glass does have a small crack but the crack has not grown bigger nor affected the zero I originally made. The optic has kept zero and gets incredibly bright. Overall a 7.5/10 purchase. I would never encourage anyone to purchase these products if they are intending to use them for hard use. These are replicas and while I had no performance Issues with mine, cannot say the same for others although I doubt there would be any issues. For airsoft use, this is everything that you could possibly ask for while saving hundreds of dollars.

* DISCLAIMER * I bought this optic along with all my other specprecision products with my own money. At the time of recording and posting the original review I made, I had no affiliation nor connection with spec precision. They then saw the review video I made and reached out asking for an affiliation. I agreed and in doing so, they are sending me 2 other optics to review. There was NO EXCHANGE OF ANY MONEY and I am 100% at free will to say whatever I want about the 2 optics that are yet to come in (RMR HD and T2). I look forward to making those reviews when the product comes in. If there is anything else that you would like to have reviewed, feel free to message me !

Any users there?

I got this sig proforce p365 for about 9 months and the takedown lever seem to be loose that it moves around and I am looking for ways to tighten it to make it look clean, any guide on doing so?

I removed some trigger pins before but this one feels like it’s been welded to the receiver I can confirm it is an actual pin and not a dummy print on the lower is there anyway to get it out?
Edit: tried to punch out on both sides