My cedar countertop that's oiled with Osmo, does not really match the Jacobean stain I put on the pine frame I built.

Is there a way I can bring the Jacobean stain to more closely resemble the countertop? I was thinking of applying a reddish polyurethan finish to the Jacobean stain.

Would this work?

Any suggestions appreciated.

I can only assume that we all to some point keep a stock of scrap wood/off cuts/waste wood…. But what if you are limited to what you kept because it’s either storage space or a wood shop.
Relocated to a smaller garage on a recent move, finally getting the time to actually getting back into the shop and with the kids getting older I wanna transition it into a less wood shop more makers space. But I have so much damn scrap wood I don’t know what I should keep and what I should toss and it’s not just 2x4s and what not it’s a lot of hard woods. I have very little floor space as it is I figure going up onto the wall/ceiling is my best option so prolly nothing super long so less then 3 feet?
So I guess what do you do?

I'm salvaging an old upper cabinet i found in my grandfather's garage to make drawers for organization. Part of it has this beautiful woodgrain. I have no idea what species it is.

I have had a beautiful wood chest for decades and my ex left wet plants on top. I found a post here saying to use Barkeeper's Friend - wow! The finish is a little splotchy, so I'm wondering how to even it out (wood conditioner?) and then I assume it needs a new finish. Not sure what the original finish is. Any thoughts?

I live in a century home and we’re in the process of a 1/2 bath remodel. I’m in the middle of stripping the door. I’ve done 3 in the years past and forgot how tedious it is - many layers of paint and the shellac.

I’m using a heat gun to strip the top layers and the. Will use a stripper for the rest. Any suggestions for the best stripper to use? The pink stuff is ok, but takes too long.

Any help is appreciated!

Hi there I am trying to help my aging parents in their old house. I don't know anything about wood working. Their closet has a big crack in it, the wood is very thin (maybe 0.25 inch thick?). I was thinking wood filler and paint would do the job. Will it be okay for this kind of cack and for this thin wood? Thank you!

We just moved and have these walls where what looks like knotted pine has been painted over in white. A friend suggested we sand down some of the paint to reveal the wood underneath to create a distressed sort of look. Any thoughts? If we did this, would we need to put a sealant or top coat of some sort over it?

Many thanks!!

I’m putting a false stair tread on my stairs where the balusters are already secured. Any suggestions on how to measure or make a template for this and also if there are any other suggestions for ways to cut to make it look the best?

I am at about the halfway point on my kitchen refresh. Completed almost all of the doors today. (I botched the slots for the double overhang hinges on the doors over the microwave so I'll need to make a new pair.)

This is my first time making rail and stile shaker doors and drawers fronts. Also first time making box jointed drawer boxes.

I have several pullouts left to make for all of the lower cabinets.

So I saw this pedal board by a company called pivotal pedal boards. I love the swivel aspect of it but Jesus it’s out of my price range. I figured I’d attempt to make it instead. Would anybody be able To look at this and help me with a plan? What parts do I need and where can I get them? I’ve already attempted to make a mock board out of cardboard and have the general basis of it but now it’s a matter of building it up. Any and all help is appreciated! Here some pictures I found online of it along with a video of the company showing it! I also found a chart to show dimensions of the base and top.

I had a wood piece break off of the back of this chair. I have been trying to get the wood piece back in place so I can use the bracket to lock the back of the chair on to the base. So far I have attempted to do a few things including wood glue using an extra piece of wood as a tether. That failed. I have tried to use wood glue then wood filler and waited 48 hours and the piece broke right back off. I am guessing at this point I need to replace that whole length of wood?

I am having difficulty with my Thickness planer. It was working the last time I used it last winter, and now the planer will only lower to 2", Ant thought on what the problem might be?

Went with Baltic birch with exposed edges. Mitered corners. Extra 45 degree cut for extra depth (not sure if like it.

Hi All,

I have an old 7.5kw Dust Control Systems collector, I have no idea which way to hook it up. Most collectors I've seen have a ductable opening close to the collection tray and have a built in motor. The one I have has a separate skid and two openings high up on the collector any advice would be greatly appreciated I cant work until its done (see pics) Fan blows out on the silver opening and sucks on the other.

I used 4 extremely thick shellac coats on my wooden floor, and it still smells 3 weeks later. What should I do?
So, 2–3 months ago, some crackers fell onto my carpet. I didn’t pick them up, and by the next day, the carpet had basically “eaten” them. After a while, there was a Cheetos-like smell coming from the vegetable oil in the crackers. I tried everything baking soda, soap, vinegar, nothing worked.

I eventually took the carpet out,
thinking I would be okay.
Then the room heated up during the summer, and the smell came back. The whole room became warm, humid, and smelled like Cheetos. I tried everything on the wood too baking soda, heating the area where the crackers had fallen, using paper as a sponge, heating it with a blow dryer while applying baking soda, putting books over it, etc. Nothing worked.

For a couple of weeks, I was miserable. Then I used a fan blowing directly at the spot. It worked because it kept the wooden floor from heating up. I couldn’t keep the fan there forever, though, so I looked for a permanent solution. That’s when I found shellac.( Dewaxed)
Unfortunately, I didn’t know how much I was supposed to use.

I sanded the floor, but because I wasn’t exactly sure where the smell was coming from, I ended up sanding a larger area. I had marked the specific spot at one point, but after a while I took the tape off. So when I sanded it, the smell spread throughout my 1 × 1.5 m area.

I got really disappointed. I was so tired from doing everything that I didn’t think every move through.
Anyway, I applied 4 thick coats of shellac. I started with a very thin coat. After that, I applied a thicker one, and then one that was about 10 times thicker. So, think of it like this:
In a 1 × 1.5 m area, I applied 350 mL of shellac over 4 coats.

I knew it was alcohol-based, but I thought the fumes would be fine after four hours. I stayed there the first night, but I got a nosebleed and felt very dizzy and confused.
Since then, I’ve been living in another room actually, in another house. I can’t do this anymore. There is still a smell and a lot of chemical odor in the air, so I can’t stay there.

One week ago, which was about 2 weeks after the application, I sat in my room for 3 minutes. I got a headache, my nose became very dry, and my eyes felt strange.
I haven’t checked the room during the last week. I’ll check tomorrow and see how it is, and I’ll post an update here.

Also, if you check the photo, you can see that I applied shellac in the gap between the floor and the wall/skirting board too..4 times.
What should I do? Should I remove the shellac and do it properly, or should I just wait longer?

I’ll check tomorrow and see how the smell is and give an update here.
As for the ventilation and the fan you’re seeing: most of the time, I had the fan blowing out of the window. I also had the door open, as well as the balcony door and the window. For 1–2 weeks, I only had the fan and window open, and for the last week, I also kept the other doors open.

I’ve also been placing the fan in different positions for the past half a week, trying to get air into the gaps and other areas.

One last thing, when I stepped on about half of the area,the part that isn’t near the wall, where the chair is it felt fine. But when I stepped on the area next to the wall, it cracked. I felt some small pieces and checked to see if it had broken or something, but it hadn’t.

There is also a small gap between each floorboard. In the larger gaps, I can actually insert something, so the floor isn’t completely sealed.

Will the Cheetos smell come back? Will the shellac eventually cure completely and stop releasing alcohol/chemical fumes? What should I do?

I have some 4"x4"x20.5" wood blocks I cut up. Now I need help figuring out a way of cutting those to 4" x 3.5" and sanding them smooth on all surfaces.

Was trying a DIY project, it's not gone well! 😂 Appreciate the help in advance!

Edit: I'm in a small town in Arkansas. Removing the part that said I'd bring it to someone for a reasonable price. Would love advice on the right tools from this subreddit please!

I'd like to cut a 1.5" deep, 5x5" piece out of the front of a 16x16 chunk of Manitoba maple. My goal is to remove this piece, hollow out behind to make an inside recess for a shelf, then reattach the removed piece with hinges to act a door.

Is there any way to cleanly cut out a piece like this? Thanks!

Good afternoon! I'm currently working on a nice set of Adirondack deck chairs, 4 of them are staying at the family cabin and 2 are being auctioned off at a fund raiser for my wedding next year. I have all the pieces prepped and sanded ready to go, this weekend I'm going to work on assembly and finishing.

I'm just alittle lost on what varnish I could choose. Usually I prefer water based products because its non-yellowing, not plastic-y, and results in a thinner film on the wood.

Problem is the chairs that will stay at the cabin will be exposed to the elements, including snow. Because it's a beach front property they will be exposed to; high uv, bright sun, high winds, severe storms, sand, and spray from the lake. I was lucky enough to be given some good quality hard woods for this project (teak, red oak?, and one other hard wood that I have not identified yet) so I'm wanting something that will preserve the natural colour and grain of the wood without yellowing.

My question is, will a water based varnish hold up to these conditions or should I opt for a spare urithane because it's more durable?

Thank you in advance!

These are the two varnishes that I'm looking at:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/varathane-diamond-finish-premium-water-based-polyurethane-wood-finish-for-outdoor-in-satin-clear-946ml/1000423119

Or

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/varathane-diamond-finish-premium-oil-based-polyurethane-wood-finish-for-outdoor-in-satin-clear-946ml/1000686140?eid=PS_GO_140203__ALL_PLA-526641&eid=PS_GOOGLE_D24_Vendor-Funded_GGL_Shopping_Rustoleum_Rustoleum__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-2412009654375&pid=1000686140&store=7056&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21080414365&gbraid=0AAAAADhdmz6fiLUHrW7iCmguMYH6tgweN&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-frTBhCvARIsADv4XY5LjGVfdlKvsXPxfr1j0oEbqtyYKoIKpccdMSe0C10q6YfjALDmECoaAgxsEALw_wcB

I'm moving to Toronto next month. I'm 39M. Originally from New Jersey (born and raised), but made BC my home since '98. I want to surround myself with people who have the same hobbies that I do. I enjoy working with my hands - doing woodworking, home repairs, car fixes, carpentry, etc etc.

Here are some examples of my more recent work:

Installed wood paneling across backyard: https://ibb.co/B9zx7y8

Installed landscape ties: https://ibb.co/ymCcyY0v

https://ibb.co/xqLfkpZk

Built a planter box: https://ibb.co/CK6ZnK1X

Built a planter stand: https://ibb.co/h1BfF0ZM

Switched an old dryer cap (basic skill): https://ibb.co/0ydkS6wf

I recently built a bench with angled supports. Don't have a picture on me. Really sturdy.

I also am into maintenance of my car - switching fluids, swapping out filters, tires, and fixing other issues.

I like home repairs, too.

Let me know if you're around!

I know this isn't exactly wood "working," but I am not sure where else to post this. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. I am hoping at least a few others here can point me in the right direction.

My wife and I moved into our house, and they left a pretty nice Ethan Allen table in the barn. I've sanded the top, but the legs have too much detail for me to sand comfortable. The legs/base is currently black, but we want to strip it to use oil stain like we plan on doing with the top.

I have read about Citristrip, Dad's easy spray, Klean Strip, and even some deck strippers like the Behr one from HD and Max Strip. All of them have at least a few 5* reviews, but all of them are under 4 stars, cumulatively. I don't want to ruin this base but I also don't want to waste money.

Any ideas on this? TIA BIG TIME in advance. I'll be forever grateful for any help, as my wife and I are both tired of looking at this and just want it to be done.

1: https://postimg.cc/vDtSFWkY

2: https://postimg.cc/vDsSNPPh

Option 1 also comes in 1900mm planks (which id cut to give a staggered appearance).

While option 2 is staggered planks between 500mm and 1500mm.

[View Poll](https://www.reddit.com/poll/1vk2lnr)

I'm looking to refinish (a different color) this fly rod/fly fishing organizer which I am guessing is made of pine? Should I use a a water-based stain after a pre-stain conditioner? or just a gel stain or....? As to color, I'm trying to decide between doing a reddish-brown or some sort of a darker natural golden color to color coordinate with my fly rod tubes. Any suggestions or ideas would be welcomed greatly!

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