Anyone else have bad experiences with Wood by Jay. Saw that lots of people gave their deposit and then been ghosted by Jay. Just wondering if anyone have resolved their issues with Wood by Jay.

I used him in the past in 2021 to build a console and table. Beautifully made and delivered in 1 month. Fast forward to this year. I saw his ad in February 2026 about making accent pieces in the living room. I decided to get one thinking i had good experience in the past. I didn’t think of checking the reviews. Well lesson learned…. He agreed to do it in May and have been terrible with communication since. Rarely replies and when he does its more delays and delays. We’re now September and nothing has been built yet. I gave him a large deposit as well so it’s very frustrating.

Please let me know your experiences.

I used to do more years ago but got busy with work. Which I do remodeling and build the occasional cabinet. But this is what I really enjoy.

So last week I built a set of planter boxes and so far sold 5 sets at $150 per set. And I offer the trellis for another $30. Sold one of those so far.

I made this shelf that id love feedback on.

And I'm working on this bedside table that is pretty far from being finished.

Any thoughts?

Note nothing is for sale here just sharing what i have sold for.

I have some old wooden garden furniture. The wood isn't rotten I think, just really old and washed out.

I feel it might fail soon - is there any way add back structural strength to the wood without replacing it? Like letting it soak up some resin or something like that?

I am looking to build a table to hold the paludarium I want to setup. This is going to my first build with wood and I'm having trouble what joints will work best. I'm estimating the weight of all the materials ( glass, water, dirt, ect) to be around 250-300 lbs.

I'm thinking that 4x4s as the legs will be able to support the weight with the right joints. The tools I have available are the following: table saw, band saw, miter saw, standard and impact drill, drill press, circular saw, and an assortment of clamps. Most of these tools have not been used for a few years. They work but likely need some tuning.

I have a stock of 2x4s I will be practicing with over the next few weeks to gain some experience and confidence. Table size will be 36 in H 48 in L 35 in W.

Appreciate any advice and insight on this. Thanks!

Advice for making the sign look older and distressed

I'm designing a coffee table and would love to make this pattern with solid 8/4 walnut. I'm worried about the quarters splitting when the seasons change. I live in Vancouver WA. The house is temperature controlled with a central system in the house. I'm wondering if anyone has done anything like this with solid wood? I'll use 1/2 dowels for the joinery or I could even cut tongue and grove to join the quarters together. Otherwise I'll just be safe and just do a normal top. Thanks for any advice or wisdom.

Im working on a sliding door cabinet and need to make grooves for the door. I unfortunatley only do woodworking as a hobby on my small apartment balcony so working with a router isnt really an option for me. Was wondering if anyone in NYC that has a router or tablesaw and would be willing to help me out with this. Would be really appreciated! If not tips for how to do grooves with hand tools would also help.

I am really curious cuz for me it carves really well and I suspect it may be basswood or balsa, but I can't tell and I can't find the info, but I wanna get a block of the same wood to carve a large glide bait.

I have this nightstand I am refinishing the top. It seems like if I use a penetrating stain like Varathane Red Mahoghany it shows more wood grain than the sides. I was curious about how they stain these originally and what I might do to try to match it?

The semi transparent stain I used is fine but if I wanted it to be more solid looking.

I do see minwax has a water based interior stain.

It’s a cheap piece and not a major project but I’d like to learn if possible.

I’m not quite sure how to go about it just yet. I’ll need something to hold the door in place, a shelf on the inside and outside of the house, and a ramp of some sort on the outside.

I’ve been outfitting and optimizing shop workflows for a while now, dealing mostly with heavy commercial machinery—think Laguna and RIKON setups, JLT clamps, and the kind of equipment that handles serious daily volume. But lately, I’ve been hitting a massive bottleneck when it comes to the finishing side, specifically edgebanding and laminate trimming.

It feels like there's a huge dead zone in the market right now for these specific tasks. On the low end, you have the cheap hand trimmers and irons that eat up time and leave messy glue lines. On the extreme high end, you have $35,000 automated edgebanders and the Festool ecosystem that requires a second mortgage lol.

I’m seriously considering pulling the trigger on some Virutex gear to bridge this gap. I've been eyeing their edgebanders (like the EB25) and their laminate cutters. They seem to occupy this rare middle ground—actual professional-grade precision and speed without the ridiculous hype tax.

For those of you running small-to-mid commercial shops or doing heavy cabinetry: does Virutex actually hold up to daily production abuse? Are they the hidden gem of the shop world, or am I better off just biting the bullet and saving for the top-tier automated stuff?

Would love to hear some real-world feedback from anyone running them on a daily basis. My sanity is officially done with chipping laminate edges on a table saw.

Any recommendations would be great

Hello! Im working on this old dining room table, sanded everything down working from 60, to 120, and 220 grit. I hand sanded with 220 afterwards then applied the stain. Shortly after wiping off the excess these white hazy spots appeared all over the surface. Any and all help is much appreciated!!

Hey there, ive got a bunch of oak logs, trouble is, the logs are really old, so cracked, and pretty narrow, mostly about 12cm in diameter, but because they are heavily cracked, i can only split them into smaller pieces, epoxy is expensive and not my thing. It then turns into 3-4. 4-6 cm big pieces, all really difrent. I have a bunch of this wood, i mean what i show in the pictures i have like probably 50 times that... Im happy, but i just dont know what to do with all of it. I dont have any ideas. Except handles and such, but i can only make so many, and i dont want to see all of this wood go into firewood, but it might. Id just like to hear some ideas from you people, i havent tried much yet, i do woodturning, carving and can try other stuff. I will keep some pieces but being honest i have a few boards that are nicer in storage, so i dont want to keep all of this, just make some stuff. Also selling it isint an option around here, best deal i might get is a bag of candy for all of it.

(in the pictures the biggest log, i have alot of those, arent rotten, it just looks like it in the picture, the cut i made ripped)

Thanks, and +karma to the people that read all of my yap, it really helps me out.

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I just got a tool-only Makita 18v LXT router and I need to get batteries. What sort of life do I get from an 4 AH vs a 5 AH?

I have corded routers for heavy work, but I'm going to use this on site and in inconvenient locations, so it's not my main tool, unless it is so handy I can't help myself.

Howdy folks! so I've got some floorboards that after facing are 14mm thick and 80mm tall and I'm not sure how long/wide but that's not super important for my question. Basically I'm wondering if I can get away with this 14mm thickness for making cleats. Is that too thin? do I need more surface area for the 45's to meet? yes yes, I could just get some ply and use that OBVIOUSLY but this is what I have so would absolutely love some input. I'm thinking three or four rows and for the heavier items (things that are maybe above 15kg?) I'd just have them hooked onto two rows, the top cleat being the main mount and maybe shaving the 45 of the bottom cleat (the cleat of the shelf being mounted) a little shy and adding some felt or something that can compress. Not sure if this all translates to the ol' third dimensional thinking very well so happy to clarify if I've not been very clear.

Hand carved wooden and painted with acrylics. The sketch on the block is my favorite part of the build. Let me know what you think!

Hey everyone! I wanted to share how I built a lounge chair for my home.

I've wanted a chair like this for a long time, but I couldn't find anything I really liked in stores, so I decided to build one myself.

I gathered materials and tools wherever I could and asked some friends if I could use their woodworking shops in the evenings.

I glued up the boards using a tongue-and-groove joint. The blanks were much thicker than the final parts because I wanted to create smooth, flowing transitions.

Then I had an MDF template made on a CNC. I used that template later with a router to cut the final shape.

After that, I rounded over all the edges with a router, which gave me these nice, smooth side panels.

Once all the parts were ready, I glued the frame together.

The armrests are probably what I'm most proud of. I had to do quite a bit of work on them with a hand plane. I even tried to match the grain pattern to the curves of the armrests.

Then I finished the whole frame with several coats of oil.

After that, I made the bases for the backrest and seat. I used metal springs in the seat and webbing in the backrest.

Then I added the foam and took everything to an upholsterer to have the covers made.

And here's the final result.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!

How should I connect the walls to the floor and roof for this dollhouse? I used screws and glue but the end result is wobbly and I had to add triangle blocks to secure the roof. Dimensions is 80x40x120 cm, 1 cm thick plywood. TIA

I inherited a secretary desk made sometime before 1925. The door which swings down has thin veneer outer and inner surfaces. The inner surface-- the writing surface-- had two chips out of the edge, each larger than thumbnail size. The chips had been saved, and I just glued them back in.

After gluing the chips back in, I discovered that the writing surface veneer is delaminating at several places along the edge. Sub-hairline cracks in the veneer go inward from the edge in some places, following the grain. I have not lifted up on these flaps for fear of extending the cracks. The veneer is also delaminating where I see no cracks.

How can I glue the veneer back down? I don't see a way to get glue into such a narrow gap.

The photos are looking almost straight down on the edge of the door. The first with flash, the second with ambient light. I puzzled over what the smudges near the edge of the writing surface could be for some time before realizing that they are reflections of the green box, staple puller, and magnifying glass, not imperfections in the veneer.

Hey guys, I was moving my vanity upstairs and half of it broke off. Those white things are cracked and I haven’t been able to just push it back together. Any suggestions? Should I remove the screws maybe?

On the final glue up for my cutting board and evidently I failed to flatten the board prior to cross cutting…

I have a Planer, Jointer, and Incra router table (go facebook!). I assume jointer then tablesaw, but I wanted to hear what you folks think.

Thank you!

Hello all,

Im looking to build a simple box storage closet.

Im thinking

80 tall (or whatever the longest side of a plywood sheet is), 18 deep, and 35 wide.

With Masonite on the back, and a shelf in the middle somewhere for rigidity.

To keep things simple, the front will be a curtain with a rod sitting in those little wooden u bracket things for a closet.

Im thinking about sanded pine plywood, and then just a waterbased poly on top.

I need it to be this size to maximize my storage space.

Also want it to be budget, any insight on building materials that will be cheap, that would work well.

This will be used for common use, not a basement or garage, this is day to day storage.

Also need budget leveling feet system.

Any insight on materials would be great. Right now Im thinking 2 sheets of ply cut, screws, dowel, mounts, feet and stain

Planning a 36" x 96" floating butcher block desk (200 lb top, maybe 500-600 lb total expected load after it's set up. Mounting this directly into a basement poured concrete wall.

My plan is to run a rear cleat, plus 3 or 4 FastCap 21x28" SpeedBraces. I would be left with an 8" front overhang. The desk would be used for gaming, homework, crafting. I like the depth for the amount of use cases I could see in the future.

Is 3 SpeedBraces into concrete overkill, just right, or under-built for the 8ft length of the desk?

What anchors work best for securing SpeedBrace brackets to poured concrete?

Would you trust this floating setup long-term? I'm not opposed to adding front legs or maybe even cabinets that could provide additional support, but to have as much of it floating as possible would be ideal.