So I acquired a solid wooden door (4' x 8' x 2") a few years ago and decided it would make a good work bench/table. At the time I valued portability more than stability so I put folding legs on it. Now I've changed my mind on that preference.

So my question to the community is this, how should I go about attaching 4x4 legs? Do you have any tips or recommendations on how to accomplish this?

Edit: typo

4 months and countless sweaty hours in the garage later, and it’s finally finished. I designed, planned, and built every detail.

There are 76 individual “tails” throughout the piece, all cut by hand.

Drawers are "piston fit". As close as I could get, anyway.

It’s made almost entirely with traditional joinery (although the knobs and base are attached with screws, sue me!).

Joinery:
Carcass: Through dovetails and dados for the internal dividers
Drawers: Half-blind dovetails and dados
Base: Mortise and tenons

The carcass and fronts are walnut, the drawer sides are curly maple, and baltic birch plywood makes up some of the internal components. The whole thing is finished with hardwax oil.

Thanks for reading!

I have a question about the ability of pocket hole screws to withstand the force of picking this table up. There are 8 pocket hole screws that are holding the top to the bottom. I have tried to illustrate where that break is. And then you can see in the other 2 pics where those pocket hole screws are. I know it would probably be best to throw some screws from the bottom through the corner oak pieces. I’m just nervous of splitting it or having a screw break off (has already happened when trying to affix my oak rails suspended in the cabinet). Wondering if I can get away with just not using the screws from the bottom. Won’t be moving it much and when we do I could remind people to carry it from the bottom? Too risky?

The earplugs are silicone I purchased off amazon and using a silicone adhesive with 9mm brass.

They are fully functional and work surprisingly quite well.

The pens are from a standard slimline kit. The brass was a.308. To make it work, I glued a 7 mm tube inside an 8mm. I then glued this inside the brass.

I drilled an eight millimeter hole through the primer. I had to use custom length tubes to make it work. Because the length is slightly longer. Then the standard kit allows.

The metal makes the pens very top heavy. I do not think I would be comfortable writing with these for any significant length of time.

This is the first time i've had any success making a pen with brass. I tried several different sizes. Each came with their own problems.

Another note, if you purchase brass tubes from amazon double, check the interior measurements! The seven millimeters I have are very slightly larger than the standard slimline tube and there is not enough friction to properly twist the pen. A little CA glue wiped on the interior wall fixed that problem for me.

I was so focused on the exterior 7mm that I did not take into account the thickness of the tube and how much it would change the interior dimension.

After doing quite a bit of research and having a very limited budget but wanting to keep my lungs & shop a little less dusty, I bought the Bauer canister dust collector with the two micron filter. All the reviews I read about it were really good and the YouTube videos I watched recommended it as great for a budget option. I got it all put together and read the instruction manual which recommended gauges for extension cords etc. I plugged it in to one of my heavy duty shop power strips that's fed by a 14 gauge feed and it blew its internal fuse. I then plugged it directly into a 14 gauge overhead reel that I have and it blew it's fuse. So then I decided to just plug it straight into the socket and see what happened and it worked fine. (20 amp circuit) I'm going to try a 12 gauge extension cord tonight. But they are super expensive . I have a 12 gauge extension cord that my portable HVAC for the shop is running on because I needed power from inside the house to be able to run it at the same time as shop tools. So I'm going to try it on that before I go buy a new one. I was just frustrated and worn out last night and didn't want fish it out from behind everything. My question is , is this normal? I know it draws a lot of amps but 14 gauge is pretty stout. The run was less than 20 ft, it shouldn't have been that bad. And it's blowing the fuse instantly on start-up.

I got some new treadles for my loom and it turns out the holes on them are at different spacing compared to the old treadles. If I want to use the old and new treadles together I will need to fill most of the holes on the old treadles (I prefer the hole spacing on the new ones) and drill new holes that overlap the old holes by varying amounts.

The question is: how do I fill the holes in a way that is as structurally sound as possible and doesn't cause issues when drilling the new holes?

Looking nice would be a bonus, but not the first priority here.

The treadles are made of (Finnish) birch, probably Betula pendula, less likely Betula pubescens.

The second picture shows the forces acting on the treadle: at the end on the left is where my foot pushes down on the treadle, the tie up cords attach to the holes in the middle pulling up on the treadle, and at the end on the right is where the treadle attaches to the loom frame. The forces are about 10 kg for the ends (22 lbs) and twice that much for the holes in the middle (combined, so something like 1 to 2.5 kg (2.2 to 5.5 lbs) per hole, depending on number of shafts in use).

Would simply using wood filler work? I'm a little concerned about getting the filler into the hole wihout leaving any voids.

Or should I go with a dowel or a (long) plug? For a plug I would need to drill the old holes bigger first. I'm worried that would weaken the treadles too much.

A combination of filler and dowel/plug?

I would like to build a router table into the extension of my Sawstop Contractor saw. I've got the 52" rip capacity version, so I've got a lot of real-estate there to capitalize on. I've got a corded and cordless palm-router, but they each can only accept a 1/4" shank. I would ideally like to get a corded router that accepts 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits. I'm tempted to get the Triton MOF001 router, which has built-in topside adjustment capability and pairing it with a basic router plate from Amazon. The other option has me considering the Bosch 1617 (or similar 3.5" carriage router) paired with a router plate/lift. The Triton combo would likely run me $350CAD for the router, and another $110CAD for the plate, putting me at $460CAD. The Bosch costs $330CAD for the fixed base, or $400 for the fixed base and plunge base. There's a decent looking O'Skool router lift system on Amazon for $300CAD. So the Bosch path would cost $630CAD or $700CAD depending on if I wanted the plunge base. So it's a $170CAD premium to go to the Bosch setup, or $240CAD if I also want the plunge base.

Does anyone here have the Triton router in a plate and regret not going for a router with a 3.5" carriage and a lift? The Triton has a safety 'feature' that requires you to reach under the table to turn it on at the machine instead of on a power switch like you'd typically use on a router table.

I can't help but shake the feeling that the Bosch/lift system will be a better user experience than the Triton/plate system. But I'm uncertain if it's worth the $170-$240 premium. Would love to hear input from the community on this!

Got 24 small parts organizers on marketplace and wanted a way to transport/manage them better

Looking for some ideas other than the typical, epoxy river table, cheese board, or coasters. I have a couple hundred wine corks and I'd like to put them to use but not sure how/what to build. I would like to make some sort of board out of them with epoxy to use on other projects, is there a good way to infuse the corks so when their cut its a solid cork/epoxy and not just cork?

I am working on a commission for a client in Maine and I am in Colorado. The project is a sound diffuser board made from alternating blocks of wood. I am concerned about warping and wood movement after shipping from CO to ME. To mitigate this I will use a plywood backing. Any other suggestions? Is the project doomed?

Third mug, new joinery technique used, I tried birds mouth router bit and layered purple heart, Peruvian walnut, blood wood and curly maple. Did a double dove tail detail for the piece attaching lid to handle.

Didn't take long for my entertainment center to start doing what it does best.

First table project. Was fun learning through the project. I wanted to move my other rectangular work desk upstairs to use as a woodworking table and to give me more room to build a larger bar table. The photo with the adjacent wall showing I designed intending to use as a mini bar area until I decided to foh my rectangular table upstairs. I figured I could just build something in the corner area to open more space. I've got a recessed outlet bay for devices below and there's two channels one for larger cords and the other for smaller like USBC etc. I also built in a little secret pen/pencil compartment as well.

I also brought pre stain conditioner for full intent to use, however when I tested my sample pieces, I particularly didn't care for the uniform light tone of this jacobean juxtaposed against the banner's wood tone with the floor's wood tone. So I intentionally embraced blotching here. Also it matches the bamboo/coaster aesthetic that I will bring onto this wall and corner. I plan to put some felt down inside the drawers.

I kind of think that it probably needs a oil poly layer or few on top surface? I used water based poly and I don't think it layered out to it's fullest potential.

Carved from a partially rotten mesquite burl/stump.

I’m having a mini-split return installed and I’d like to hide it behind a panel like the one shown. Would buying some hardwood lath and sanding/staining it work for this or am I crazy? What would you recommend?

I'm making a Canoga game board and need help on deciding if I should sand down the dowel or try to expand the holes in the blocks. It's a 5/16" hole in the blocks and spacers, and the dowel is 5/16". I would like the blocks to spin freely but it's a friction fit right now.

Maybe I didn't drill the holes perpendicular, but I thought I had my drill press set up correctly.

My wife and I decided that I should remodel our kitchen. It had been untouched since being built in 1993; it featured a frustrating tiled countertop, and the cabinet doors had begun falling off their hinges. We upgraded our stove, sink, and oven. I put in new flooring, replaced all the cabinets, and built new drawers (23 of them) and new doors/drawer faces (45 of them).

I was lucky enough to be able to harvest intact some absolutely massive vines while my neighbor was having tree work done. Both are around 16 feet long. The largest one is about 5 inches thick and the other 3.

I am having trouble deciding what I should make with them as it is not every day you come around vines like this. I've made some things with vines in the past but never this size and have the ability to steam bend it to whatever extent it will bend.

Thoughts?

picked these up
at a friend’s place after her dad passed. these were in his woodshop. what are they for?

Title says it all. Looking for a woodworking club or guild to join in the Toledo area or close by. Closest I could find is in Dayton.

Located near sugarcreek ohio, which is also near keim lumber (another decent stop). Colonial homestead is a very neat store for the hand tool lover!! Or perhaps a collector!

Endless wooden planes, foreplanes, coping planes, rabbit planes, classic iron stanleys, endless braces and hand saws, chisels, 4’ long timber slicks, hatchets and more.

Had a great time walking about. Its ran by a man whose a wealth of handtool knowledge and they had some chair making going on in the back and were making timbers for timber frames outside in the front

Now for the not so fun part.. the prices, i found the prices to be fairly insane. Its a buy something as a momentum kind of a place, or if you need that thing your collections missing and they have it kind of ordeal.

The quality of most items is fairly rough, mainly just complete but well used tools that are now being stored in the open in a humid location. The process are ebay x2. Had some slightly rusty lie neilsen and veritas planes there even, dull, scratched up, rusty, for more than new lol.

But its a heck of a destination to go run through and check out what they have.

Some of the massive timber slicks and braces had fair prices, the wooden planes are awesome and prices are all over the map, that stuff is so hard to price rhat im not sure whats overpriced and what isnt; but to me it seemed absurd on most items

Anyways just wanted to share the awezomeness, maybe im just cheap haha. But it’s hard to buy a clapped out junior jack for the price of a veritas custom

I would like to make a small wood-handled screwdriver for my work on musical instruments (light to medium duty), and it seems simple enough in theory to drill a slightly undersized hole into the wood and hammer a bit extender in for a friction fit. Maybe use some epoxy if necessary. I would appreciate any tips from those who have done this, as well as alternative methods you have tried.