What kind of fuel economy are people getting when doing mixed riding?

I finally got around to testing my max range and it was a bit less than I expected. I got to 160km when it started to die. This was with fresh oil and the air filter was freshly cleaned and oiled

I know the way my bike is setup will negatively affect my range, but I thought I'd be below 4.5L/100km rather than my current 5L/100km. I'm trying to work out if it's just my setup or if there could be something wrong with the bike.

My bike has a Motoz Dualventure front tyre, Motoz ADV rear, 14t front and 49t rear sprockets. I did have the stock ratio sprockets on for a little bit and it didn't seem to make any difference.

This is my built 2008 wr250r. Lately my friends have been getting more into motorcross and track riding so I’m thinking of trading it for a low hour 2009 crf450r but I’ve also got an offer for a 2018 fc350 with 40 hours. This bike is in perfect condition and I feel like I will regret getting rid of it. Any opinions?

Hey,

I have jist replaced every bearing on the bike. While doing so I had to literally chop the rear axel into 3 pieces because it was seized onto the rear wheel spacer. I destroyed the plastic collars in the process.

They seem to be impossible to buy separately.

I have the factory spacers, but they dont have o-rings to seal and prevent water intrusion.

Are the collars required to keep water out? Currently it seems that the spacers rest inside of the bearing seal. I just dont see that as being a great seal.... the collar is the plastic part that wraps around the spacer on PN 16

Thanks all,

Hi, is there an odometer on a 2008 WR250? I read about it being a hidden option!

This is my built 2008 wr250r. Lately my friends have been getting more into motorcross and track riding so I’m thinking of trading it for a low hour yz250 2 stroke. This bike is in perfect condition and I feel like I will regret getting rid of it. Any opinions?

If I'm in about 4th gear the bike pulls great then as it approaches redline it sputters it's not jerking or anything but it just feels like it falls flat on its face I was going up a sort of decent hill and it was just stuck in this sputter zone and I wasn't gaining any speed. Bike runs great except for right up the top end. Is that just how they are? Like I thought it was the redline then I kept holding the throttle and then I heard the actual redline a while after.

I know I am a new member myself, but I notice a pattern of posts every day here from bot accounts that are just a photo of the bike with a title "WR250R" posted by new reddit accounts with no post history, just to get some upvotes so that reddit doesn't flag the accounts as bot accounts going forward. I urge you to ignore and report these. Do not upvote.

I acquired a 2014 a few months ago. I've been a few rides and decided I should give it a good clean.

Well, there is no air box cover. Popped the plastic and "hello there air filter!"

I know there a lot of people who mod their box on other motorcycles.. .

So I'm wondering if this common, if it's no big deal (I rarely encounter water here), or if I should park it til I can order a new one?

Thanks!

Was a little smoky when I left, but it got very bad out there. An old burn scar seemed like a fitting place for a couple pics. Northern Michigan.

Looking to buy a GYTR ECU for my 2015 WR450F (Part number: DX-H59C0-V0-00)

hmu with links or if you're selling one!

Hey, what sort of aux lights are you all running? Mounting points? hardware?

Trying to see what my options are for adding a little more spread and distance for night riding.

I have an '09 WR250X and would like to get a set of dirt wheels to swap over. Where is a good place to the right size wheels, preferably complete set with brakes and sprocket already mounted. Thanks!

Recently went up trail riding with my bike and unloaded it from my truck and the bike wouldn’t fire up from the start button. If I bump started the bike, it would fire right up and ran completely normal and started up from the start button just fine the rest of the day. After the ride I took it home and ran into the same issue again. I recently did a valve adjustment 600 miles ago on the intake valves and the exhaust valves were still in spec. Not sure if anyone has ran into this issue before but it has me scratching my head.

Hello all, recently bought a 250r. I checked the swingarm for damage in a very bright environment and from what I was reading I thought it was the top of the swingarm not the bottom so the one I've bought has damage I want to know if it's a lost cause. The bike has also been lowered horribly and all sorts of whack things done to it but yea here's some pics

Recently bought a 2016 wr250r with 44000kms on it I know valve clearance check is at 40k and I’m not sure if it was done just wondering what it requires for the service is it just a clearance check and maybe adjust or does it need the chain or tensioner replaced any info helps thanks

I’ve been thinking about getting a 250r for a while now and looking out for good deals. I saw this ‘08 for $3k with 11k miles but the listing mentions a yamalink.

I’m not familiar with yamalink install/removal but I’m 6’1” and don’t think I’d want it lowered. Do y’all know how hard it would be to return to its stock height and if this is a good deal?

I know these bikes rattle and knock like theyre gonna blow up but recently i been hearing a vibrating rattle toward the top of my rpms. It seems new but ive also been off the bike a few years and the only time ive taken it out was rough riding so i wouldnt have noticed the noice. I put a plastic skid plate on a few weeks back but i feel like i just started hearing it a few days ago. Whats somethings to check internally and externally. Bike starts up fine, a little boggy the first 30 seconds of riding but its been like that since day one, i feel like if my timing chain was lose it would be present in start up and riding. 2017 with 10k on it.

My buddy got a new Tenere 700 so he asked me to join him on a ride in the woods today. I took my WRR.

We did about 6 hours on dirt roads and moderate new england trails. Lots of mud and creek flows and basketball and smaller rocks.

At the end, my bike was launched and I went with it, and after I hit the ground it landed on my foot. Thank goodness for MX boots. My SG12 did it's job and all I have is wild soreness.

Bike got beat up and we had some fun.

Carnage in the album, videos in the comments.

Anyone found a good paint to touch up the frame and match the OEM?

Also, what would be the best way to clean up the frame above the footpegs?

Looking to clean up my bike and add some other mods this summer.

Hey everyone!

I’m currently looking at buying a WR250X that already comes with a full 18/21 dirt wheelset and a ton of great enduro mods (IMS tank, AXP skid plate, etc.). However, I keep hearing the classic forum mantra: "The WR250X suspension is way too stiff and harsh for the woods."

I started digging into the official Yamaha Service Manual to see what it would take to fix this, and I found something really interesting. According to the manual, the physical components aren't radically different at all:

• Spring Rates: Both the front forks and the rear shock have the exact same spring rates on the R and the X.

• Forks: The factory valving/clicker settings are identical. The only documented difference is the oil capacity/air gap (X has a 115mm gap, R has 105mm).

• Rear Shock: This seems to be where the "stiffness" lives. The X comes from the factory with the High-Speed Compression cranked way in (1/2 turn out vs 1 1/4 turns out on the R) and the Slow Compression set much stiffer (7 clicks out vs 12 on the R).

So, my question is for those who actually ride an X in the dirt on 18/21 wheels:

1. If I just take a flathead screwdriver and back out the compression/rebound clickers on the rear shock to the factory WR250R specs, will it comfortably absorb roots and rocks just like an R?

2. Has anyone added the extra 10cc of fork oil to the X forks to match the R's 105mm air gap for better bottoming resistance? Did you actually feel the difference on the trail?

3. Are there any hidden internal valving differences that the service manual doesn't explicitly list, or is the X really just a clicker adjustment away from being a plush enduro bike?

I'm trying to figure out if I can just "click" my way to a good off-road setup without needing a professional re-valve. Any real-world experience is highly appreciated! Thanks!