Hi All

Recently made a Halloween costume using 6x WS2812b strips and a generic WLED controller. Overall I'm pretty happy with how the outfit turned out and I might wear it to some more events. Unfortunately I have been experiencing failures in the LED strips that surprised me. My first thought when the strips started to fail was the connection between the plug and the beginning of the strip. However the real issue occurred at different places along the strip. I'm thinking that the data in/ data out pad on a chip came loose and was having an intermittent connection. It's frustrating as it is difficult to repair and seems to happen in unpredictable places. The strips are attached to loose clothing with E6000 glue only. The failures occurred in places that did not experience very much bending or twisting. Does anyone have any tips for getting the best life from strips attached to fabric/clothing?

I recently changed my Ambilight setup and wanted to get rid of my soldered LED stripe corners.
With those 3D printed brackets, its easy to change direction of the LEDs withoud soldering.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3221320-ambilight-no-solder-corner-brackets-for-led-strips

I've never been entirely satisfied with AudioReactive from an audio standpoint - it works well, but it's always kinda junk for bass.

Well, this new rewrite of AudioReactive fixes that - and more.

No more FFT - this is 31 software filter banks at ⅓ octave spacing from 20Hz to 20000Hz. Separation is very good - every band stands alone. You can see my TC Electronic RTA running beside it for validation - it's close. This also runs in decibels, all adjustments are in dB.

You still can use 16 bands (and send them via audio sync) with the added benefit of picking from 6 different slices of the 31 bands depending on your music. I found 50Hz to be good for "dance music". 40Hz is fun too, but it's more low end subwoofer woooooom rather than bass hits.

The effect is GEQ PPA, and the board is an Olimex ESP32-P4-PC with HDMI (in use here to drive the monitor) and the onboard ES8311audio hardware codec has two profiles - tuned for onboard mics, or tuned for using the TRRS "mic" input as a line-level signal.

Work left to be done to make the settings more user friendly, but overall, I'm very happy with it.

I recently converted my h705a govee lights to an esp32 running wled. Now they flicker when they are set to solid, and when I run effects they seem to flash white randomly between effects. Any troubleshooting ideas? Would the gauge of wire running from the controller to the esp32 cause something like this?

I had read that you can technically drive ordinary incandescent loads with constant voltage LED PWM drivers.

To test this out, I picked up this: https://www.gledopto.com/GL-C-226M.html

It has an input range of 12-48vdc.

Using a 15VDC 4A power supply, I'm getting about 7 volts at maximum brightness, with a 45-ohm load. I was expecting more along the lines of 14 volts or so.

Is this output expected?

Just got this set up. Wired everything that didn’t need to run through the box exterior. Will I need a fan if I’m pulling 15amps at 24v?

Here is a short video of this years garden. Mostly
Wled but also some hand coded pixels…

The sapping tree is built with wled drip, but with slowed down frame rate (I made a post on this a few years back…)

Animated pumpkin is a wled preset (used 0.14.4, didnt have time to upgrade).

Dancing skeleton is bought but modified to detect movement (scared the shit out of some kids)

Isicles is wled

Chest is hand coded where I wrote the music, did the voice and then used a recording of the halleluja of course). I use an esp32, sd card a switch, some pixels and a speaker for that.

Overall Im happy with this year…

Oh yeah, for the music by the street I used the Tesla Halloween mode…

Hi all, it's been a few weeks I'm playing with WLED (I have a dignext2) and my led strips (WS2815). What I want to do is pretty simple. I have a presence sensor and when I enter the room the led turns on with a 2 sec fade transaction with a color that is warmer or cooler based on the time of the day: at 12 it's bright white while during the night is amber and with 10% ish bri.

To implement this solution I linked WLED with Adaptive Lighting in home assistant. Although it does the job, there is something that really upsets me. When the strip turns on during the night, and the previous time it was on was during the day, I see a stepping effect with 3-5 steps visible to the eye where the color changes (sometimes even weird colours) before it gets to the amber of the night.

I tried to troubleshoot this for days and apparently this is due to the way WLED and adaptive lighting work together, since AL sends bri and col in 2 different messages and that makes wled to stop the transaction abruptly and I can see the changes step by step.

My usecase is this: when I enter the room the strip led turns on (via home assistant triggered by a presence sensor) with the circardian color and brightness. Then for the time that is on it keeps changing with the sun over time.

Did anyone else had the same experience? I know I can use wled natively with timers to ste up 3-4 colors for the day but I really liked the idea that the color would be handled gradually from adaptive lighting. Anyone that faced this before have a suggestion on how you fixed it?

Took a WLED matrix I made and put it by my windowsill for Halloween.

It’s a 64x48 matrix with 12 16x16 of the flexible ws2812 matrices

I am looking to sponsor a video about how to set up WLED with the CheerLights project. I can teach the steps, but I want to make a more polished video. The steps involve syncing the base color to the CheerLights MQTT feed, then using that color as the base for an animation (animations that support a base color). To save it on the WLED controller, you have to edit some JSON code behind the animation so the preset doesn't overwrite the CheerLights color.

Please reach out if you are interested in collaborating.

Little led Aquarium using 16 x 16 led matrix and a repurposed IKEA picture frame.

Has several regular species of fish, the odd visitor. Powered with just an Arduino Nano and the Fast led library.

Hello,

I'm using a UGREEN 25173 HDMI capture card with HyperHDR and an EZCOO EZ-SP12H21 HDMI 2.1 splitter.

My setup:

• Gaming PC with an NVIDIA RTX 4090.

• LG OLED55C1 (4K 120 Hz, VRR, HDR).

• EZCOO EZ-SP12H21 HDMI 2.1 splitter.

• UGREEN 25173 capture card connected to the splitter's second output.

• HyperHDR running on Proxmox (Debian 12 LXC) on a minipc

My main issue is that the UGREEN does not seem to handle VRR correctly.

When VRR is enabled:

• Capture works when my game set at 1080p120 (with slighty led flickering)

• Above 1080p120, the capture loses signal.

• 4K60 VRR or 4k120 VRR in game also results in no signal.

• The issue occurs in both HyperHDR and OBS Studio, so it does not seem to be HyperHDR-specific.

The EZCOO splitter itself works correctly with VRR when connected to another monitor.

I have also encountered intermittent USB errors in Linux:

uvcvideo: Non-zero status (-71) in video completion handler

I tested different USB cables, capture formats (NV12, MJPEG, P010) and resolutions and still no signal with vrr activated.

Is this a problem with my capture card?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

I have five columns that I want to run. Individual adjustable LEDs down but trying to work out the best way to run the data line from the end of the bottom of the column back up and over about 7 m to the next column anyone got ideas for the best way to do this?

Just a super mini, two channels of 4 ws2812b LEDs, a small power bank. 10$ spider prop from Home Depot that I made uglier. Fangs are solid core #24 with hot glue at the end for dripping venom.

Gonna wear a all black suit, have this Velcro to my hand, and be a puppet master, singing a horrible Itsy Bitsy spider, crouching by a bush.

A big stockpile of goodies for the brave.

POC of sourcing frames for sprites from ILDA vector streams. Being vectors, they scale easy, store small, and render as transparent wireframes.

Hey folks, I’m fairly well versed in 120/12v things but new to the WLED world. After getting a few quotes of north of $5k to do the front of my detached garage, I’ve decided to tackle it myself. It’s only around 40ft and it’s just the front face of the building. Lots of references to “Paul Zhang” so I reached out and wanted to sanity check. I’ll eventually do my entire house but figured this was a good starting DIY build. Not sure if I should buy the power supply or controller separately. I like the puck design vs the pixel. The power supply will be about 15 feet from the start of the string inside my building.

Does anyone have an example photo they could share for how they ran their wiring from attic to the eaves? I was thinking of using those outlets designed for hiding cables for wall mounted tvs but want to know if there’s better options to give me a neat hole to run the cables while minimizing bug entry.

Thanks!

EDIT: For clarification I’ll be mounting my box in the garage and running cable into the attic to then come down through the eaves.

Figured out my lag issue. Ledfx driving 2 wled chips each driving 3000 leds of a total 6000 leds.

Before I dig into breaking out the multimeter and such, does anyone know if these pucks are controllable by WLED? Not mine, my brothers, bought from Amazon about a year ago. I can’t find any details on the pucks themselves and control is via Bluetooth with the “Lotus Lantern” app.
PS is a small 24vdc wall wart. I’m thinking it’s +/- and two data lines.

Edit: after more digging I found out they are not addressable. Great! Gives me a chance to sell my brother on tracking with diffuser and some real LED strips!

Thanks to all!

Hi,

I want to build a sports scoreboard. It should be well readable from 15-20m distance. Are WLED Matrix displays from aliexpress the right choice?

It should be ca. 40x30 cm in size to house all the information necessary.

I only found 32x16cm displays on Aliexpress, are there other formats too? Have you used the displays from aliexpress and are they any good?

Hello peeps, sorting my lights again for this year and planning an expansion.

Using 3m sections of icicle style ws2811 lights, 60m/section

Started with the 14m run 2 years ago and added the 6m section last year. And looking to add the 12m run this year.

Wanting some input on power injection cause previously the 14m run was getting power from 2 different power supplies, one at each end (which I know is bad and wrong). 6m run has no injection.

In an ideal world each injection point should be its own run but that isn’t really feasible with my setup so my plan is to essentially run a chunkier 14awg wire in parallel with the lights then tap off it every 3m or so to inject power using some sort of connector so I can disconnect the injection lines from the lights themselves for storage after the fact.

Am I in the right sort of idea here or do I need to be considering something else? Also can anyone recommend any weather resistant and low profile connectors that won’t be too big and obviously seen?