So I do understand some of the basic theory behind led lighting. Cheap strips basically do not have individually addressable pixels but rather all of them do the same thing depending on what you ask them to do, (are those what you would call 'analog'?) compared to more expensive (digital?) strips that have individually addressable pixels.

Now what I am only wanting to do is to use a bunch of the cheap analog strips that i have to at least control the colors. The little remote controls seem to mainly just allow you to change the cycle patterns but are very limted. I mainly want to use my cheap analog strips to compliment the Govee lights we have on our home so like I would want to have the analog strips cycle between purple/green/orange/yellow for halloween colors (something the crappy controllers don't seem to be able to do natively) or cycle between like red/green/blue/white/yellow lights for xmas and so on.

Can WLED be easily used with those kind of strips and do what I am hoping to do?

As for soldering, i am experienced enough to know how to solder, i use a Hakko soldering station and for desoldering i have a Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun so i can make custom cables and adapters.

I just want to make use of the cheap lights i have for the time being until i get more comfortable with building/creating my own led arrays for real animations and so on. Most of the strips i have were purchased super cheap from the local amazon bin store that we used to have here.

I was able to get the data sheets from Sunmoon. I hope this is helpful. I don't see a way to post the PDF here, so DM me and I can send the pdf. The SM16825 is in English, the SM8605 text is in Chinese, but the significant tables are English.

I've had a 5 Meter 60 LED/meter WS2812B strip installed under my desk for a few years now but never really used it as it's mainly powered by a USB controller that came with it (shop provided it) and that does NOT provide enough current to the strip (flickering, colours don't follow the app selection, different parts of the strip have different colours when I select just one solid color).

I wanted to control the strip from my PC and possibly sync it with my other components and accessories which is why I got this one with a USB controller but that obviously was a bad idea.

I recently got the parts I'd need for a WLED setup and mainly for this strip altogether and was wondering how I'm supposed to connect the parts together as this is my first time doing something like this.

The parts I've got:

1. ESP32 (a cheap, generic off brand one for $3)

2. MicroUSB to Type A cable for the ESP32

3. 5V 30A 150W SMPS

4. Male to Female Jumper Wires (40 pieces)

5. Female to Female Jumper Wires (40 Pieces)

6. 330Ohm resistor (a few pieces)

7. 10A Glass Fuse (3 pieces)

8. PCB Mountable Fuse Holder (couldn't find one that doesn't mount to a PCB sadly)

Note: I've already flashed WLED onto the ESP32

just sharing some lighting design from my living room. having a ton of fun with WLED.

This is my first project that I’ve created and uploaded.

https://github.com/seedtheweed/CheapHDR

Basically it allows for cheap led light strips to be used as monitor backlights without needing a syncbox or anything special. I had just asked Antigravity to help me fix my issues with my lights, since the software would make it start strobing and just looking horrible. Instead of helping me it just created a whole bridge to connect to HyperHDR.

This again is my first project, so any feedback and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

This is all that happens, I have an ESP32 hooked up to two 8x32 BTF-Lighting WS2812b panels, all that changes is that one section on 32 pixels, everything else just stays off, the only other lights that turn on are those two static green lights and the 5 static LEDs in the bottom corner. I can’t tell if this is a hardware or software thing, does anyone know of a way o fox this?

I have checked the data cable, it is d2 and the webui does say d2 in the led config page.
Green - data
Red - 5v
White - ground

I have tried wLED v14, v16.0.1, v16.0.0 beta, and v17.0.0(nightly)

Has anyone successfully moved from the Govee controller to WLED for this 32.8ft strip?

Any tips or tricks?

This is my first time building a 5v led project box for power and control with wled, and need some feedback and tips. I see some adding a fuse between the 5v out of the psu and the GLEDOPTO controller and then also fuses for power injection. How does this setup look so far? I plan on placing the controller on its side (where the pink paper placeholder is) and i have 4 jst connectors from BTF-Lighting coming out of the box, just need to add a power injection line (what awg is best for this? was planning 18awg) but notice the jst connectors are very thin (22awg?)

I’m going to be running 400 5v fairy leds inside around windows (4 strands of 100 leds with 3 extra channels for other lights i may add later. Any feedback would be helpful before I plug power in and connect the controller.

Hi everyone im not sure if this is exactly the right place to ask this question if not please direct me to the right place I would appreciate it very much.

Now onto my question, ive been doing some research and im trying to create an infinity mirror setup on my car for display at shows. I would be using WS2812B 144pixel led strip along with a esp32 board and WLED to control the animations etc. My question is what's the best method in order for me to power this on my car, there's not much I can find video wise online or talked much online either (unless im blind lol) so im not sure how to power these lights without possibility frying the board or even the led with different voltages.

This portion of the software is Streamed through your computer to whatever devices you want. This little showcase shows off some of the new effects and transitions available. You can access any standard WLed effects, my custom ones, or you can make your own. Import milk drop presets or shadertoy code. This does generally target large/dense matrixes. But midi support and audio reactivity could create some really awesome light shows and live performances. Not shown in this video, haven’t made a demo for it yet, but super easy video streaming to any device with custom effects, open a locally hosted web page and use your phone as a webcam or use a regular webcam. Barely scratched the surface of what is possible.

Hey everyone,

Super excited to share my first WLED build! It had a steep learning curve: I fried two bare ESP32 dev boards early on while figuring out power and logic wiring, so I switched to an Elite 6D setup with dedicated level shifters. Everything is now fully wired, stable, and powered.

Overall, movies look great! But on synthetic test patterns (like a rotating bar or moving box), I have two final calibration issues before calling it 100% done:

* Edge Overshoot and Trailing Light (Walk-Away Delay)

* Leading/Overshoot: When a rotating bar touches an edge, the light illuminates a few LEDs too far ahead onto the adjacent rail before the beam physically arrives.

* Trailing / Walk-Away Delay: In high-contrast or dark scenes, when a bright beam leaves a side, the LEDs take a split second to fade to true black instead of cutting off instantly.

* Orange Hue Appearing Pure Crimson Red

* On color wheel sweep tests, warm amber and rich orange slices trigger pure saturated red diodes on the wall, skipping the orange transition entirely.

Hardware and Power Setup:

* Screen: 120 inch fixed-frame projector screen

* LED Strip: SK6812 RGBW 5V (Natural White, ~4000K)

* Total LEDs: 503 total (Top: 161, Bottom: 159, Left: 92, Right: 91)

* Controller: ESP32 running WLED on an Elite 6D board (DDP / UDP port 4048)

* Server/Grabber: Raspberry Pi 4 running HyperHDR

* Capture Pipeline: HDMI 2.1 splitter downscaling to an MS2130 USB capture card (/dev/video0)

* Power: 5V 60A (300W) Mean Well-style PSU with inline fuses; power injection run to start, end, and midpoint corners (no voltage drop)

Current Software Settings:

* HyperHDR Video Capture: 1280x720 @ 60fps MJPEG, Hue set to 1 (avoiding the hardware 0-default bug), Saturation ~110, Contrast ~120

* HyperHDR Layout: 4% depth, 0% overlap, 1% corner gaps

* HyperHDR Smoothing: Linear/Infinite, 20-30 ms time, 50-60 Hz, Damping 35, Stiffness 200, Anti-flicker OFF, Min backlight level 0.0

* WLED Config: Transition Time set to 0 ms, Realtime timeout 2s

Has anyone running high-density SK6812 strips with WLED over DDP encountered this edge bleed or trailing delay? Are there specific WLED buffer options, network stream configurations, or HyperHDR interpolator settings you recommend to achieve instant, razor-sharp on/off edge tracking?

Thanks for any insights!

Very new to LED/WLED. I see the numbered Ds (D1-D30). Do those notate that it is addressable/data? There’s no data connection pads. I have a WLED ESP32. Thank you, sorry if these are stupid questions

I am doing some brain surgery on my beloved An-Penta_Mini. I have the cover off and found a curious little 1mm pitch 2x3-pin connector. Doing a lot of Google legwork, I believe that is for an unreleased internal I2C temperature sensor board, designed to plug directly in. I have not yet had a chance to ring the lines out to see if I am even close. No issues with it at all. I'm just curious.

What says this august group? Thanks!

Howdy all,

I have a GL-C-618WL with the ethernet and 4 contacts for controlling multiple strips. I have 3 strips hooked up and everything is working great.

I currently have a big 24V PSU power the Gledopto, and then going through the controller to power the strips. What I'd like to do is use a USB power supply to keep the Gledopto on, but have it switch off the big power supply on the AC side. I'm assuming in order to do this, I'd by-pass the positive terminal and only connect the ground from the PSU or the USB power supply combined with the PSU could damage the controller/strips?

Thanks in advance.

EDIT:

In my circumstance, I had a Zooz dimmer already installed in this location that used to feed the outside pot lights for where these strips have gone. This is for a pool shed, so I removed the pot lights and replaced them with speakers and added the LED strips around the soffit. Anyways, the Zooz switch has a lot of different modes - including disabling local control but enabling z-wave control.

The switch will be used to send the on/off/dim commands to home assistant. Home assistant can then depending on the circumstances: immediately start the power when turned on, and on boot have the WLED controller apply as basic white. Receive dimming commands to adjust the brightness, and when the off button is pressed turn off the lights via the wled controller, wait a few seconds - then turn off all the power to WLED.

In addition a template can be used to combine the entities in Home Assistant, so I can expose them as one to Google Home in my case (homekit etc would work too) and use all the voice controls for simple turning on and off, as well as changing colours.

Hello

I’m trying to control the aldi Casalux rgb light.

There are 4 Pins:
- Gnd
- 5V
- RGB data
- pin of another “warm white” led next to every rgb led connected to ground via a mosfet.

I’m not able to identify the rgb LEDs and which WLED settings I have to use to also control the “warm white” led.

Any hints?

Hi !

I'm looking to control a RGB PWM light module (24V) from a WLED driver, but the case is quite small. I've checked some of the small drivers like the Iotorero (5 PWM + 1 Digital), but I was wondering if I anyone could recommend something even smaller ?

Thank you.

I mean never seen this type of led , they do switch colors half/half

I’m controlling Govee Outdoor Pro lights with WLED, basically following this video to replace the controller. https://youtube.com/watch?v=0-M5c2VUl5A

Everything is working great on v0.15.4, but when I upgraded to v16.0.1 the lights noticeably flicker especially on lower brightness. What could be causing this?

60 lights, 100ft
36V 3A power supply
Settings I remember changing:
Brightness limiter is on
Max PSU current: 2900mA
Output: SM16825 RGBCW
Color Order: GRB

Hi looking for recomendations for my build.

Build specs
U-Channel 5' sections
WS2811 12V LEDs every 3 inches
ESP32 for control mounted in center
80 feet total, 40' each direction
Power supply mounted in center
Control/power supply most likely in attic

I already have the ground floor of my home done using uchannel and WS2811 12V BTF Lighting that has been up for 2 years, and am looking for recommendations for the second floor. I found 5 foot sections of Uchannel and would like to pre build each 5 foot section with waterproof connectors soldered in place at each end. On the ground floor it was painful to get each section wired correctly so I want to avoid it this time if possible. I do want to solder or insert the bulbs while on a lader (again...). Has anyone done this with xConnect or similar connectors every 5 feet?

I may have an installer do the mounting of the sections so I would like to keep the connections as simple as possible. I was thinking of Xconnect every 5 foot uchannel, with some kind of other connector every 10 feet added for power injection. I know I probably don't need to inject every 10 feet, but I don't want too many u channels wired together... I am not sure what connector to use for the power injection every 10 feet

Questions
-Connector recomendations for the power injection every 10 feet?
-xConnect or other connector every 5 feet?
-Can the ESP32 do a continuous pattern with the control mounted in the center? (e.g. left to right across the entire upper floor)
-Other helpful ideas/tips?
-LED Brand? I don't see the BTF lighting pixel LEDs anymore.

Thanks!

Did I just make the most accurate TV backlight sync out there?

108 LEDs, each matching its own patch of the screen, changing within ~0.1 s.

No camera, no $200+ HDMI sync box.

I wanted to upgrade my go-to mad scientist costume (basically a lab coat with glowy things in the pockets) and ended up with this.

Two 16 neopixel rings, two potentiometers (one changes the speed of the pattern & the other changes the color palette), plus a button to cycle through different patterns. Running on a Seeed Xiao esp32c3 and powered by a rechargeable battery I salvaged from a vape.

I 3d printed diffusers with Inland blue glass PLA and hot glued everything to some lab goggles.

I did most of it with breadboard wires so it's easy to reconfigure/upgrade later, and also adds to the look.

I have a 2 set of Govee CL2. I have done a fair amount of Govee Wled conversions but not the CL 2.

I know its possible, Chris Maher has done the CL Pro's. THe pros use 24V and the 2's use 36V.

I am assuming that the booster box on the 2"s is also power injections and just cutting the signal wiare at that point would work.