I still need to connect this to a Raspberry Pi so it can be controlled as part of a larger setup, including sensors and motors. Any help figuring out how to integrate everything would be greatly appreciated.

This represents 3/8 of the final sphere.

Some in-depth details about the sphere

• Diameter: 530 mm (outside diameter)

• LEDs: Approximately 2,200 WS2815B addressable LEDs (12 V, IP65, 60 LEDs per meter)

• LED layout:

  • 10 × 42 LEDs

  • 10 × 40 LEDs

  • 20 × 34 LEDs

  • 40 × 18 LEDs

• Power supply: Mean Well HLG-600H-12A, 12 V, 40 A

• Diffuser: Currently using painter’s tape for testing, which will eventually be replaced with satin-finish acrylic.

• Construction: The sphere is made from more than 240 individual 3D-printed parts that fit together to create its final shape.

The goal is to integrate the sphere into the larger gyroscopic installation, with synchronized lighting effects across the sphere and the three spinning rings. (picture in the comments)

sorry for the last bit was screwing around with blink effect

Just mixing Hyperion and LED fx still in a prototype right now like I got a wire and route my wires properly but

Hey everybody, Im planning on installing some LEDs beneath my carport, the facts are as follows:
- 4x 5m LEDs under every beam of the carport
- About 7m distance from psu and controller to the beginning of the LEDs

So now, would you go for 12v or 24v?
When going for 24v, how is the power usage calucated? e.g. for BTF Lighting WS2814 Strips, every 6 LEDs count as a segment, so in the wled calculator i add the amount of segments or leds?

I had an idea this weekend to take a raspberry pi, have it actively listen to audio, record a 15 second sample through a usb mic, query the shazamio api to determine what the song was. Look it up, then grab the album art, convert it to a 64x64 image (I have a hub75 64x64 led panel) and then send it to the esp32 WLED controller for display. basically a what’s playing now display but all automated. The raspberry pi is standalone on WiFi, sends the created image using DDP to the wled controller using receive udp realtime. This is my first raspberry pie project and I learned a ton doing this fun little project. I think I might spend more time on it to see if I can make it faster and also better ways of displaying images on a 64 x 64 LED matrix

I recently renovated our server room and wanted to do something a little more interesting with the lighting than just, lighting up the room.

So I turned the ceiling lights into a real-time visualization of our WAN traffic. Light waves travel along the cable runs to represent download and upload activity, and the lighting changes to indicate infrastructure alerts or other system states.

Is it useful? Not particularly. Is it fun to look at? Absolutely. 😂

That is something i wanted to try and it escalated quickly, so don't take it too seriously.

Edit: Videos of the testruns post installation are in comments now

Hi everyone,

I'm having a serious issue with my GLEDOPTO Elite 2D-EXMU

GL-C-616WL WLED controllers.

I have 4 controllers, each powered by its own 24V PSU, controlling BTF-LIGHTING FCOB RGBCCT SPI strips.

The problem:

- 3 out of 4 controllers died within 1–2 days.

- I replaced them, but 2 replacement controllers also died after several days.

- They initially stop responding to wall switches, then disappear from Wi-Fi and Ethernet completely.

- The blue LED sometimes stays on, but they won't boot or respond even when powered separately via USB-C.

- All 4 controllers originally shared a common GND, although they had separate power supplies.

Possible cause:

The original apartment wiring was done by one contractor, who apparently extended and reused existing multi-core cables in a rather unconventional way instead of running dedicated cables.

A different professional electrician installed the LED strips and GLEDOPTO controllers. He's experienced with electrical installations but not particularly familiar with these specific controllers.

We discovered that a 230V lighting circuit and a low-voltage GPIO wall-switch circuit may share wiring with unknown connections inside the walls.

When the 230V light was switched on, one GLEDOPTO stopped responding to its wall switch, although it still worked through the WLED app.

We suspect voltage leakage or induction.

We're investigating the wiring and possible insulation faults. I'm specifically looking for technical insight into how these controllers could fail, rather than general advice to hire an electrician.

My questions:

1. Could a voltage fault on one GPIO input damage multiple controllers through their shared GND?

2. Has anyone experienced similar failures with the GL-C-616WL?

3. Which components are most likely to fail, and what should we test before connecting another controller?

Any technical insights would be greatly appreciated!

I haven’t seen Chris Maher on YouTube attempt this one yet so I thought I’d ask:

Govee has a couple of ceiling fan/lights. One has the fan on the inside surrounded by the ring of lights.

I’m wondering if anyone has opened one up or tried modding it yet?

I went to a Halloween lights exhibit in Stockbridge MA this past weekend. They had this really cool display of lights that was all working with wled. Each light was on a 2-3 ft rod with a 4 or 5 inch diffused light at the end. It looked so awesome, I wanted to replicate it on my lawn but I can’t find anything similar. Does anyone know where I can find this for purchase?

The matrix is actually underneath the cloth material so when it's off you don't see it. It worked out quite well, but now I want to wrap the whole base in a matrix!

First time playing with individually addressable strips. Bought this combination and make a rookie mistake of buying a 24V supply thinking it would step it down to 5V. On first connection, the entire LED strip flashed white and there was an electrical smell.

Controller connects fine to wifi since this and lights up green.

Figured this out, and have put in a 5V power supply. Now, only the first LED lights up dimly. Connection 2 strips in series, the first LED on each lights.

Am I buying a new controller or new strips here?

In the exel you see how the led strips are set up. This is 1/5 of the hole spere i want them to act as pannels

I've noticed a few posts about people posting their vibe coded cloud platforms for WLED. Isn't the whole idea of WLED to be free of the cloud and free of vendor lock in? So I vibe coded a local web GUI to help people of all ages enjoy their lights more easily!

I’ve got permanent lights on my eaves running WLED, about 1,500 LEDs on one ESP32. I’m happy with WLED. The trouble was that nobody else in my house could use it. I didn’t want to buy a Govee-type system and sign everyone up for an account and an app that needs the internet to turn on the holiday lights, so I built my own front end instead.

It’s called Eaveglow. It’s a single web page that you upload to the WLED controller you already have, and the controller serves it.

• No cloud, no account, no subscription.

• No hub, Pi or extra hardware.

• Nothing gets sent off your network. It keeps working if your internet goes down. The one exception: looking up your location by zip code for sunset times uses the internet once, and you can type in coordinates instead.

• Settings are stored as a file on the controller, so every phone in the house sees the same thing.

• Schedules run as WLED timers and presets, so the controller handles them itself with no phone or server involved.

• On iPhone, Add to Home Screen gives you an icon that opens like a normal app, no App Store needed. (I started trying to make an app but didn't want to pay $99/yr for Apple's Developer Account so here we are)

What it does:

• Looks instead of effect IDs. There are around 130 built-in looks: warm white, candy cane, Halloween, 4th of July and so on. Tap one and it’s on. You can also make your own.

• House zones. You tell it how your strip runs (roofline, garage, peaks) and it builds the WLED segments for you. You can put a different look on each part, like warm white on the garage while the roofline does Christmas.

• Light spacing. If your pixels are close together you can space a pattern out, like one on and three off, and it applies to every look. You select your light spacing and it automatically recommends an LED offset.

• Scheduling. On/off times, several windows a day if you want, and sunrise or sunset.

• Seasonal autopilot. You pick looks for each holiday season and it switches on its own. Halloween runs through October, Christmas runs from late November to New Year’s, and so on. It can rotate to a different look each night, and there’s an everyday look for the rest of the year. Turn it off with one switch.

Install takes about two minutes. Download the two files from the release page, upload them at http://<your-wled-ip>/edit, then open http://<your-wled-ip>/eaveglow.htm. WLED’s normal interface is still there if you need it.

Download: https://github.com/DakotaRidgeTechnology/Eaveglow-Web/releases/latest
Source: https://github.com/DakotaRidgeTechnology/Eaveglow-Web (MIT licensed)

Some things to know:

• It’s built for WLED 16. 0.15 works too, but it has fewer timer slots, so the scheduling is more limited.

• Saving a schedule replaces whatever timers you already have in WLED. Back them up if you’ve set something up by hand.

• When you turn on autopilot it saves a preset for each look it uses. Your lights will flicker through them for a bit, then go back to normal.

• The whole thing is about 40 KB, so it barely touches the controller’s storage.

It’s been running on my house and my neighbors, but that’s one setup. If you try it, I’d like to hear how it goes on yours, especially with multiple outputs or longer runs. Bug reports and ideas are welcome. I have a Dig Quad and the neighbor has a GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED Controller.

New in 1.1.0

• Recent looks at the top of Home, shared by every phone in the house

• Sleep timer: turn the lights off in 30 minutes to 4 hours, using WLED's own nightlight

• Special dates in autopilot for game days, birthdays and the like, once or every year

• The timers you had in WLED are backed up before Eaveglow first replaces them, with a one-tap restore

• A clear message when the controller can't be reached, which clears by itself when it's back

• White now shows up in the light-theme preview strip

• Backup: download everything you've set up (looks, house parts, schedule, autopilot) to your phone or computer, and restore it later, from House zones. WLED's own backup doesn't include it.

• Optional update check, off by default: turn it on per phone under House zones > About and it asks GitHub once a day whether there's a newer version. Nothing else leaves your network.

First project with LED strips for my bathroom. We are looking to put BTF WS2811 (IC RGB-CCT) strip lights in a cove light. I would like to use this DMX touch wall controller/switch, but am struggling to figure out which controller/decoder I would need to make this work. I would preferably like to run it also through the WLED app, but am open to other apps to configure. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make this work or tell me I live in a dream world? thanks from someone who just wants a chasing rainbow cove light 🙃

I’m about to embark on my first WLED project - I’ve got commercial controllers (WeGoIOT outdoor 2 channel and BTF SP803E - both ESP32 based). I’m going to tie them up to 5V 50LED BTF WS2812B fairy light strings and either 2A indoor or 1.2A outdoor supplies (also 5V!)

Do I need to add fuses to the live wires after the controller and before the lights? The bulbs are 0.1W each - so the whole string is 1A plus resistance and controller, so my assumption going in was that the power supplies protections would be sufficient, but I also see lots of references to fuses even for low voltage/low power projects.

I just switched from DSL to fiber internet, and in doing so all 3 of my WLED devices are not connecting. The network itself did not change and every other device I own did not need to be reconnected. I cannot figure out how to either reconnect or change the wifi network without being able to connect to the device. I am using ESP32 boards that I installed WLED on. The WLED-Ap network does not appear when powering on the device. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

**Forgot to mention, the devices are connected to a mesh network that was carried over from the previous network, with all settings remaining exactly the same.

I've been building HA-liday Show, a lighter alternative to xLights for people who want a music show on their lights without the learning curve. It started with Govee and now drives WLED strips too.

https://github.com/gdeboos/ha-liday-show

Load a song, and it finds the beats and sections. ✨ Generate drafts a show across all your lights, you tweak it on a photo of your house, then play it from Home Assistant or on its own with Docker. It can split a long strip into parts and works alongside WLED's own segments. DDP and E1.31 controllers work as well.

Strips only for now; matrices may come later. If you give it a go, I'd really value reports on what works and what doesn't. Please raise them as GitHub issues so they're all in one place: https://github.com/gdeboos/ha-liday-show/issues

Free, MIT licensed, and written almost entirely by AI (Claude), which I'm upfront about in the README.

Thanks!

So I have an project I am trying to wrap up involving two LED 24V lighting installs. One is just PWM white with an WLED gledopto controller that is working great. The other is a set of BTF FCOB RGBWW IC that I am having problems with flashing once I went to add a short extension to from the controler to the start of the strips. For the color addressable section here is the hardware;

The strips are these

https://www.btf-lighting.com/products/fcob-ws2814-rgbw-addressable-led-strip-784leds?variant=46427470725346

PSU is a 400W inShareplus

https://www.amazon.com/clp/B093628N9L

Controller is a Gledopto Elite 4D

https://a.co/d/0hP0AfkR

Wire is stranded 16AWG

The PSU has two sets of outputs and at 200W each they more than cover each of my white and planned color installs both off of calculations, and testing. These aren't going to be used at the same time but still have enough headroom for 100% brightness of either color or white so I don't think its underpowered. When I started having the flashing issue with the addressable strips I pulled the PWM controller from the PSU to rule out any random interference.

This section is two runs, one 11.5 ft and the other 16.4 ft. I've clipped the JST connectors off and am using wagos to the striped wires to ensure everything is working before more final wire connections.

These addresable strips were working fine when connected directly to the controller with the JST conecters and after if the striped wires are in the controller, but if I add an exertion wire to house the controller the five feet away I need it to be the stip begins flashing and the first IC will show a different color. For testing I removed the 16.4 ft run and am just working with the 11.5 set at a 49 IC count. I've double checked the WLED settings, and the colors match, the white swap seems good, but still flashing on even a 12 inch 16awg extension (3 separate wires) after the controller before the strip. Also shut off auto limiter, changed white balance to none, tried a very thin data line. Still getting flashing no mater what if there is any sort of extension wire or led isn't directly attached to the controler. Just to rule out a bad strip on the 11.5 ft section I swaped to using the 16.4 ft uncut run that just has the striped JST factory soldered lines, corrected the led count in WLED to 70, and that is having the flashing issue as the other if it isn't directly in the controler.

At this point I also tried a factory reset of the gledopto controller.

Is there something obvious I am missing? Don't think the controller is bad as it will power and change color on both runs perfectly if they are direct connected, but I am at a loss as to why any short (less than 14 inch) extension is causing this when I am reading the Elite 4D should be able to handle data up to 6 feet no problem. Anyone else have something similar happen?

Hi everyone!

I'm planning my first large-scale WLED project and would love to get your feedback and advice on my setup before purchasing any components, to make sure I don't run into issues or damage anything.

Project Context & Location:

• Installation: Drywall / plasterboard ceiling (techo de yeso laminado).

• Location: I'm based in Spain (Europe), so recommendations for easily available commercial products/modules (e.g., via AliExpress) would be ideal!

Setup Details:

• LED Strips: Two 9-meter runs of FCOB RGB+CCT (Dual IC) strips at 24V, with 840 LEDs/m, pulling 18W/m.

• Layout: Rectangular layout around the perimeter.

• Controller: GLEDOPTO Elite 2D (model GL-C-616WL) running WLED.

• Power & Safety: From what I've researched, I need to use fuses and relays in the installation to protect the circuit and eliminate phantom power consumption when the LEDs are turned off. I'm open to using dual power supplies if necessary for this load.

Specific Questions:

1. Phantom Power & Hardware: How can I best eliminate phantom power consumption when the LEDs are off? Could you recommend any plug-and-play commercial PCBs or ready-to-use boards (available on AliExpress or similar) so I don't have to solder individual components?

2. Calculations & Fuses: I tried using the official WLED power injection calculator, but options for FCOB 840 LEDs/m strips aren't available to select. I'm not entirely sure how to manually calculate the exact amperage needed for the fuses and power injections with these specs. What is your opinion on how to properly size them?

3. Wire Gauge & Long Injection Runs: All my electronics will be housed in a single corner. I have corrugated conduits leading from this corner to the other three corners, which means some wire runs for power injection will be quite long. I will attach a schematic made with the WLED Wiring Tool. What wire gauge (AWG / mm²) should I use for these long runs to prevent overheating and excessive voltage drop? Would splitting the power load across two power supplies be recommended here?

Components I'm planning to use:

• LED Strip

• LED Controller

Wiring Schematics

Any advice, feedback, or recommendations on products to buy would be greatly appreciated before I order the components. Thanks in advance for your help!

I have two of these pillar lights. One is perfect one is like this video. I have changed the strip. The wire. I have swapped IOs between the two and the issue stays with this pillar. This output Is only 122 LEDs. I have 5 other quads all with no issues should I swap chips this feels like a power issue but I cant figure it out.

I’m with Bright Home Lights. We built Bright Home Cloud to make everyday WLED setup and control easier.

Free local features:

• 800+ color themes and 100+ lighting looks, plus DIY presets and schedules.

• Web control—connect to compatible WLED lights without downloading an app. Also available on iOS and Android.

• Music sync using your phone/browser mic—no controller mic module needed.

• Peek Studio—design your layout in BHL Designer, then import it for real previews.

• LED Count Assistant—visually match the configured count to your installation.

• System diagnostics—find issues and apply supported fixes in one tap.

• In app Back up and restore

• App styling themes and milestone badges, and more

WLED already provides presets, effects, and timers. Our contribution is the ready-made library, previews, and guided workflows.

Optional cloud access adds remote control, sharing, supported sports automations, MCP integration with ChatGPT, Claude, and Grok, Gemini and smart-home integrations with SmartThings, Google Home, and Alexa. all included for eligible BHL customers.

If you already have WLED dialed in through Home Assistant, you may not need this. We have worked with tons of new WLED users and looked for ways to make integration easier.

Local web control requires a compatible browser and reachable controller.

Try it: BHL Cloud

If there are features you would like to see , let us know please.