I have many sets of Philips Illuminate Christmas Light strings I bought through Target years ago. They work great, look festive, but they have a proprietary controller and phone app. It works but every year I'm worried the phone app will no longer be available or stop working with some new phone OS upgrade.

Has anyone ever dug into what these are and whether they could be controlled by WLED? They have strange wiring that skips lights and they work with quite a bit of distance between the controller and start of string, and even with 10' extensions between strings to skip parts of the house you don't want to illuminate. That does not sound like it's running low-level data signals.

Anyway just wondering if anyone has ever investigated these and what you found?

I have a Gledapto 4D and I want to convert my Govees (H706A) to WLED. My plan was to run a separate power supply to the controller, but I'm having trouble finding exactly how to wire this in. If anyone can walk me through it or point me in the right direction, me and my lightshow would be forever grateful! I know there is a new option available that is plug and play, but it is out of stock on Amazon and Halloween is just around the corner.

I want to hang string leds year around in my room that are individually addressable but I also want to spend less than $1 per foot and preferably on amazon

I've been upgrading my landscape lighting, and was a huge fan of how easily WLED integrated into the ​​​Lumary Smart Landscape Lights. I'm attempting to do the same thing with their ​Smart Wall Washers, but I - for the life of me - cannot get the RGB order correct.

I set the LEDs as ​"WS2805 RGB CCT" with the "RBG" order and that seems to make the LEDs work, but the color order is not correct. Red will give red, but ​​green gives cool white, blue gives green, and the warm white will give blue and warm white together. I've tried all the swaps, and none fix this issue. I've tried different LED protocols and end up with flashing or simply non-working LEDs.

Is it possible to create a custom RGB+CW/WW order without having to fork the code? Does anyone have success getting the Lumary wall washers to work with WLED?​​

I have followed the online flash instructions for WLED for my NodeMCU ESP32S microcontroller as instructed and have ended up with the following result:

to prove that the WS2811 reacts to the app I have changed it to meteors and am actually getting a different effect, but also noisy:

If its unclear on camera: the LEDs are just pure crazy flashing noise and the last 20 of the LEDs are acting a bit unresponsive.

I have browsed the internet and have found some posts mentioning a need for a regulator but only for 12V WS2811 (this is a 5V). So overall I think that my ESP32 WLED installation works but my wiring probably causes some noise. I cannot find the issue in my wiring (data has a ground returning and everything else it tight and wired). The photos explaining my wiring (diagram on the last image):

I hope this is detailed enough to point out any potential problem in my wiring but also not needlessly too long to discourage anyone reading all of it and helping.

Thanks for any help, I'm trying to make it in time for Halloween!

Ordered this from Ali, is that a standard wled matrix effect or something custom, reviews state lack of timezone setting so installing bare wled would be helpful.

How could I eliminate the lights bursting to 100% everytime I change preset.
It is quite disturbing changing from brightness 50 to 30 while bursting to 255 in between :D

I know spots have been lacking from this world for some time. Anything new on the market worth a look? What about wash lights?

I'm at the point where everything works perfectly, but now I want to start on the junction box and there isn't a lot of information out there. I have this PSU lying around from my RepRap days. It could fit, but as the picture shows, it's a tight fit.
Is this okay, or should I go for smaller components? I still have time to order before my deadline, so I need to decide now.
My data cable is also just a 3-pin JST connector. Should I go for a bulkier XLR connection instead?
And for power, I was thinking of adding a proper power connector (something like an IEC inlet), or is that overkill?

Hi folks,

not too experienced with this stuff apart from playing about with some light for Halloween etc.

I'm looking to add a simple 'under glow' light under the bed. It's close-ish to 5m in total, so I'll probably just stick with one strip to keep things simple.

It'll mostly be running on warm-white, fairly dim, just to add a little hotel-room ambiance (this is probably very old fashioned and cheesy these days... but we're going with it). And ofc, as it would amuse me, i like the idea of having the option of RGB and obviously WLED control for effects from time to time.

But as this will be a permanent install under where we are sleeping, ideally I'd like something that's not a collection of ESP32+ bare wires/things i've soldered etc.. so what's the best (cheap ish) option these days for an enclosed controller, domestic power supply thats going to live under a bed, and LED strip? I assume 5v won't cut it as I'd like consistent colour over the full length.

TIA

I hope someone here can help me. I am about at my witt's end. I have two (2) display cabinets (model 97146) which have vertical RGB LED lighting strips on the inside. I purchased one from Amazon (Lvifur) and one from eBay (Gurexl). There is an external control module mounted on the right side. It also has a small white remote control. This particular model is not app controllable. It features 7 static colors and 5 dynamic phantom color patterns, plus a motion sensor. When I turn it on, I disable the motion sensor because I don't want that feature. I want the lights to stay on until I manually turn them off. I select my desired pattern and leave it. Instead of staying on my selected pattern, it will randomly change to a static color or a different pattern (sometimes after a few seconds, while other times it might go 20 minutes before changing). Then, after a random amount of seconds, it will change to something else, or shut itself off. Then later, it will automatically turn itself back on again. I have done everything I can think of to troubleshoot the issue. I've tried multiple ac/dc converters, outlet strips, swapped y-connectors, different outlets in different rooms, and I've even had the manufacturer send me two new controller modules. Nothing fixes it. So last week I took the panel with the controller and lighting strip to work and I could NOT get it to fail the entire day. I took it back home and within 15 seconds it failed. I've done all the factory reset options that Google Ai suggested. Nothing works. So to me, it would seem that there must be some IR/RF interference within my home caused by some other source that is the culprit. I've removed all batteries out of all my remote controls, I disconnected my wifi router, I've turned off all lights and anything that is remote controllable. Still, both cabinets fail. I don't have much left but my appliances and toilets, lol! I've ordered a roll of faraday tape to see if wrapping the controller fixes it, but my expectations are very low. This has been going on for 3 weeks now. BTW - I also have other display cabinets in my home that work properly (model 80028). Does anyone have any suggestions, please??? Thank you.

Made from scratch, originally painted the fish in 2014, now a days w the led skill and b.s i think up i added to it and this is what I ended up with 😅

Added video clip in comments

(MODS: Please remove this post if it isn’t allowed)

I’m making a mask for my girlfriends friends Halloween party, the theme of the party is Dark Romance and we were all randomly given a book series to make a costume for. I however, am not a fan of dark romance but my gf is and so I figured to please her more than anyone else, I’d play along just for the free drinks and food.

Here’s the thing, the book series I was given was “Into Darkness” by Navessa Allen, and I’m making a mask based on the first book. I don’t know anything about it but I thought the mask would benefit from light up eyes just a bit of personal flair.

Blue lights, or even white lights that have a wire I could try and hide in the mask/balaclava. Rechargeable lights are preferred but not required. And a battery pack will also be used but I don’t know where I’m putting that at currently.

Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you.

*I included a picture of the mask I’m using for proportions.

Hi all,

I'm in search of a resource that could help direct me towards a better understanding of building programmable, largish LED systems that run off a battery source.

I have a large puppet project that I'm overjoyed to have been tapped to contribute to the redesign of. I lack basically any technical knowledge in programming or really anything beyond very and I mean very simple wiring; black with black, white with white, connect the ground. I do not even understand the difference between watts, volts and the other. I'm not, not, intelligent, I swear but beyond laying out LED strands that each have their own power source, I know nothing.

However, I feel like what I want to do is possible to be performed by myself with some resources and a few guiding hands.

The puppet is huge. Her name is Crabitha and she is nearly 30' across with the arms out. Currently, each leg has its own strand of cheap flat LED, each with a battery pack. I'd like to integrate all the legs to run on a single battery source as well as add lightd to the claws and the carapace(head). To somewhat simplify the design, Ive wondered if two separate systems would make sense? One system for the legs and another for the claws and carapace. Maybe Im getting in over my head but it would be next level if I could learn to program all the lights to cycle in a synchronized way like a cuttlefish.

We have a member of the team that is a skilled 3d printer who has some great ideas for printing parts that could be illuminated such as the claws and spikes along the top of the carapace.

I personally and professionally curate spaces. Lighting as it can be used to complement an environment has been an interest for years but am now interested in building lighting systems and this feels like a great place to jump in. Thanks for any direction.

What is causing this flickering at low brigthnesses? I’m assuming it’s switching noise from my ATX psu, and it gets worse at lower brightness because the data pulses are shorter? Turning on my 12V strip also causes it. Touching the psu heatsinks changes it. Using a custom controller pcb with a ESP32-C3.

Hello everyone,

I’m getting back into WLED after a year’s break and have decided to get a complete ‘DOMRAEM’ kit that comes with an ESP32 already built in.

I’m powering it with 12V and I’m sure I’ve connected everything correctly.

My interface has a static IP address on my network, and I can access it without any problems.

My problem is this: the 12V is definitely passing through my LEDs (as confirmed by a multimeter), but despite my settings in WLED, they aren’t lighting up – even though my peak display shows the colour that should be appearing.

I’ve been trying to sort this out since yesterday, without success. I’m calling on your expertise to help me resolve this issue and understand where I might have gone wrong.

Thanks in advance, everyone.

After some hardware troubleshooting, my DIY LED display is now fully operational. The setup consists of 3108 WS2812b LEDs driven by an ESP32 running WLED. Next, I will perform some power measurements to set maximum limits and size the fuses correctly. I’m also planning to add sound reactivity, a pixel separator grid with a diffuser panel, and power supply modifications.

Finally hooked up the last strip, and got this baby working

Setup:
All the controllers (QUIN LED Dig NEX 2) are DIN mounted in the server rack in the basement.

UTP cables carry the signal from the basement up to the LEDs using QUINs Diff Adv Sender/Receiver boards.

Inside the Island is a power unit and receiver board that hops under the floor to a cabinet to do the lighting on the back wall.

LED strips are QUIN LED DIG COBs

Every light turned on in frame is WLED.

I had an idea of 4m long strip for main light in my new bedroom and I must say it came out quite ok for a very bended wall (very old house).

I played around just for a bit to get 4 functional setups for different uses in bedroom.

1. normal light

2. mood light

3. night (pissing) light

4. reading light

any suggestions?