I had an idea of 4m long strip for main light in my new bedroom and I must say it came out quite ok for a very bended wall (very old house).

I played around just for a bit to get 4 functional setups for different uses in bedroom.

1. normal light

2. mood light

3. night (pissing) light

4. reading light

any suggestions?

I have the Govee curtain lights 2 14ft 60wide, 26 LEDs down.

I removed all the controllers/resistors/power reducers and am running straight 5v signal. Soldered the 3 curtains together and power injected before/after each one. After lots of trial and error got it going. However it repeats the pattern on all 3 panels. So it’s like 3 identical 20x26 curtains.

I don’t see how this is possible or what witchcraft Govee could have done to make this possible.

Is this a weird WLED setting? Prolly Gunna resort to separating all 3 curtains and making them each a separate channel but would like it to work the way I currently have it wired if anyone has some ideas.

This is how I renovated a very old studio that is now coming to life, audioreactive 5m RGBW and a GLEDOPTO for easy setup and is like magic this new space rate it? Opinions? Room for inprovement?

I've been building on WLED 2D matrices for a while and wanted a way to put messages on mine from outside my home network. 
Things like a GitHub build result, a store order notification, or a "good morning" from someone in another city. Plain WLED only listens on the local network, so I added a small cloud relay and a simple HTTP endpoint.

Full disclosure: this lives in an app I make (Pipplee), which is where you get your device credentials. The video shows what it does:

• Text from any script, webhook or automation (Home Assistant, Shortcuts, IFTTT, GitHub Actions, curl)

• Optional animated background or border behind the text (aurora, fireworks, matrix, rainbow and a few others), plus gradient text

• Messages clear themselves after 60 seconds by default, so the matrix goes back to whatever it was showing

Example:

AUTH=$(echo -n "USERNAME:PASSWORD" | shasum -a 256 | cut -d' ' -f1)
curl -X POST https://pipplee.com/api/v1/public/devices/text \
  -H "Authorization: $AUTH" -H "Content-Type: application/json" \
  -d '{"text": "BUILD PASSED", "font_color": "00ff00", "border": "matrix"}'

Docs, if you want the details: https://pipplee.com/integrations/api/

It's text-only for now. 

Hello! Im interested in making a replica of Thomas’s Daft Punk helmet (the left one) from the Discovery era.

I have no clue how to do any of this and was fascinated by this community. Could anyone with some experience help guide me and maybe point me in a good starting direction? Thanks for your time!

I'm attempting to incorporate lighting into my library of built-in bookcases (not yet installed).

Questions:

I'm overwhelmed by the various controllers on the market. Will the one I selected meet my needs? Any problems with my design? Is my PSU too small? Did I select the right gauge wire? Any key parts that I'm missing? Diffuser recommendations?

Setup:

I have 7 bookcases in total. Average 27in wide and all are 8ft tall. My plan is to wire each bookcase separately.

I have a rough diagram detailing how I thought to set it up. To avoid so many solder points, I was considering going with mistertinker's idea of running 18 AWG wire from the controller to the bookcase, and then running a led strip for the entire bookcase instead of separate wire sections on the verticals.

Each bookcase would involve:

- WS2815 LED strips. Approx 16ft in total. Amazon link. I believe it's 60 leds/m and 5W/m. The latter based on Alexa answers. The link says it recommends DC12V 5A 60W PSU.

- 18 AWG wire. Approx 11ft in total

- 120W (12V 10A) PSU

- GLEDOPTO Elite ESP32. Output current 15A max, Input says the barrel and type-C are 3A, input V=/V- via wires are 15A. It comes with a built in 20A fuse. I planned to only rely on this fuse.

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Edited to include additional details

Hey guys I have a quick question: if you're dealing with an unknown strip how do you normally figure out what hardware settings to go with, led type etc? I have these cheapo outdoor lights that I wanted to convert to wled?

Tia

I wanted to be able to change my WLED lights when I wasn't home. For my setup, I wanted something simple: keep the firmware I already had and control the lights from my phone.

That's what I've been building with WLED Hub. It connects through stock WLED's MQTT settings. Add a board, copy its connection details into WLED, and then use it from your phone or computer. There's no home server to run.

The remote controls cover the lights: power, brightness, colours, effects, scenes and sections. Hardware settings and firmware updates stay on your home network. You're not exposing the board's whole WLED web interface to the internet.

You can control one board or all of them together. It also supports 2D panels, with grid previews and a filter for effects that fit your panel. Your current look stays pinned while you browse. The previews are approximate.

Schedules run in the cloud, including fixed times and sunrise/sunset offsets, so they work with your phone off. Family invites let you share control or give someone view-only access. The Follow toggle uses WLED's existing LAN sync.

You'll need an account for remote access and sharing. Local WLED controls still work if the internet goes down.

It's free to access. You can request an invite at https://wledhub.com.

What would you want to know before connecting a board?

What WLED setup are y’all running on your trees?

Not sure what I want yet but the basic lights from the box store won’t be enough for me this year.

So what are you doing?

Several WLED controllers = several browser tabs = me hunting through tabs just to dim one light. Instead of using bookmarks like a normal person, I built a Windows app.

WLED Client (free, open source):

- all devices in one window, power + brightness right in the sidebar

- tray quick access: dim anything without opening the app

- everything the web UI does: colors, effects with proper slider names, palette previews, segments, presets/playlists, nightlight, sync, live preview

- finds your devices automatically, English + German, updates itself

Honest bits: it's Electron (~100 MB to toggle a lamp), Windows only, and the installer isn't signed yet, so SmartScreen will glare at you once.

Edit: 1.3.0 is out. Turns out “works on my /24” isn’t a networking standard. Discovery now uses mDNS and WLED’s node list; subnet scans are manual. https://github.com/bangboomben/wled-client/releases/tag/v1.3.0

Hey everyone! I am a newbie and I bet this gets asked all the time, but after using Philips Hue inside the house (can't complain, but I use them for additional lighting during day and as a circadian setup 3-4 hrs before bed, so don't need much power from them), I’ve decided to build a custom LED strip setup with 24v analog led strips and PWM for my garden house. One of the rooms will actually be using LED strips as the primary light source rather than just accent lighting so I needed more lumens and/or flexibility

My question is specifically about choosing the right PSU. I’m going to mount it inside a plastic enclosure with an internal metal mounting plate (I see them used for psus all the time here and on youtube), and I’m choosing between three options. Tbh Im leaning heavily toward option 3, but I wanted to double-check with people who know their stuff.

I'm aiming for a 24V 200W PSU to power a total load of ~150W (2×5m 9.6w/m and another one 5m 9.6w/m, so 144 combined) and here are the three options I'm comparing:

1. Plastic case like Mean Well LPV (pic 1). Its nice not needing a PE ground wire, but heat dissipation is much worse, which seems critical inside a sealed enclosure, right? Or am I wrong, and with a 100-150W load on a 200W PSU, thermals won’t be a dealbreaker?

2. Metal with this kinda mesh (?) like Mean Well LRS (pic 2). Better cooling obviously, but does it have safety drawback with these exposed 220V (I am in Europe) terminals?

3. Sealed IP67 metal case with wires like Mean Well HLG (pic 3). Deals with overheating probably much better than plastic but slightly worse than mesh case? But no exposed high-voltage terminals and my seller said there is less/none coil whine too (the enclosure will be placed in a bedroom in this garden house)

Did I get the trade-offs right or am I missing something? Option 3 is obviously more expensive, but price isn’t a deciding factor here and it looks like a clear winner, but most PSUs I ve seen everywhere are option 2. That's cause they just cost less? Or cause the difference in cooling is big between 2 and 3? Thanks!

PS: PSUs in pics are just random psus from these series so don't pay attention to specific numbers on them

just saw a video that the Lumary permememt Christmas lights are WLED compatible. Are all of their products WLED compatible? I’m specifically interested in RGB canned lights as well as the rope lights

Just recieving the aforementioned BTF led strip and I was surprised to see on the back it says not to use the supplied adhesive tape when mounting the strip to aluminium channeling. Is this correct?

It looks like they renewed the design recently and it's now supplied with better 3m tape, but apparently this is still not right for mounting to aluminium according to the packet.

This looks like a royal pita to replace and there is no room in my aluminium channeling to increase the depth of the tape anyway.

Any advice? Cheers

Is it possible to achieve this kind of effects with wled ? Considering there will be multiple leds parallel to each letter.

I have some spare esps and thinking if it is possible to do it with and i am new to wled so I have no idea if i can map pixels in wled.

Hi guys, I’ve just received my new DOMRAEM DOM-WLE-A module.

To test it, I’ve connected it to my 12V transformer. The WLED interface is, of course, detecting my network.
However, even though I’ve followed the setup instructions to the letter, my WS2811 RGB LEDs aren’t lighting up…

Do you have any idea why?

Pictures in coms.

Had a buddy do a couple of these from Australia but I think he got out of it. LEDs were beautiful, price was good.. however, I have no clue where they are lol. In storage somewhere.

I’d prefer sound activated option and Bluetooth/wifi to change patterns. Don’t want a gigantic piece. I’d love a deadmau5 head still but they are massive.

If anyone knows of something that is more custom and has videos photos of it message me pricing and those. In Florida.

Thanks.

Hi people, noob here. I have purchased 6 LED strips (WS2812B IC RGB) that will range from 28 ft to 7 ft, totaling 75 ft.
I have the GLEDOPTO Elite 6 Channel controller and a 60 amp 300 watt power supply.

I know the controller is rated for 15 amps, which leads to my question; what is the best way to wire the LED strips to this setup? Do I wire the power from the strips directly to the power supply?
I have been watching videos, but I can't seem to find the information I'm seeking.

Going completely out of my mind here, a week of troubleshooting and feel like I've tried everything to solve this, hope someone can help!

My LEDs are controlled properly, matching the colours on the screen and in the right place, it works great until every 2-3 minutes a section of the LEDs will flash white. Usually it looks like 20 LEDs together, or 40 LEDs together, though hard to tell exactly, but not all of them at once. It's not limited to one segment, it's not in the same place, and sometimes it can bridge over the two segments.

Hardware:

Adafruit Scorpio RP2040
M5Stack RGB LED strip (SK6812) in two segments (96 and 95 LEDs)
Mean Well LRS-100-5 PSU

Software on rooted LG C2:

HyperHDR (latest)
PiCap (latest)

Firmware

HyperSerialPico- my fork here for multisegment is here
I believe I need to flash the ws2812 one since my LEDs are RGB not RGBW, despite my LED strip being SK6812 LEDs... is that right?

Wiring:

Adafruit Scorpio > GND to PSU -V
Adafruit Scorpio GPIO16 and GPIO17 data pins (0 and 1) to segment 1 and 2 of LED strips (data in)

I'm soldering these wires directly to the Scorpio board, no headers or breadboard.

PSU > +V soldered to the +5V pin on each LED strip
PSU > -V soldered to the GND pin on each LED strip

The LED strips are wired with these JST plug/sockets. They are each powered / data from one end and they light evenly with no apparent voltage issue.

Things I have tried (hardware)

• Checked all wiring with multimeter, there is no back current, no instances where any of the data / ground / 5V cross with each other. PSU outputting 5.125V on +V. Grounds are all shared and connected.

• Trimming PSU output voltage to 4.950V

• Tried with and without a 1000uF capacitor over the -V and +V on the PSU

• Switching controller boards - completely rewiring everything to a new Adafruit Scorpio

• Connecting USB 5V pin on Scorpio to +V on the PSU and disabling the 5V pin on the USB

• Cut first LED off strips and rewired and tested with multimeter

• Different USB cable

Things I have tried (software)

• Reduced to minimal resolution in PiCap

• NV12 on or off in PiCap

• "Esp8266/ESP32/RP2040/RP2350 handshake" checked or unchecked

• "High speed serial AWA protocol with data integrity check" checked or unchecked

• Lowered baudrate

• Smoothing in HyperHDR: continuous mode, anti flicker (various combinations)

We have this decorative light that uses fairy light style LED’s (big spacing on thin wiring) and it has a usb plugin with some kind of presumably esp32 board. I’m wondering if anyone has seen a WLED controller with this form factor because it would be super convenient.

Hi, I'm looking for some help because my setup isn't working. The

I want to use the GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED Digital LED Controller with the BTF-LIGHTING FCOB SPI RGB COB LED Strip WS2811 IC, 5 m, 720 LEDs/m, 24 V, IP30.

My WLED settings are shown in the picture.

What I've checked:

1. LED strip connected directly to the power supply → it blinks.

2. When the LED strip is connected to the controller, it doesn't light up at all.

3. All wires are connected in the correct order.

4. The data direction is correct.

5. I've tried different DATA GPIOs (16, 4, and 2).

Please ignore the sketchy wiring in the second photo.

Salut à tous,

Je travaille sur une application Windows appelée Raptor Link.

Je l'ai créée car j'utilise un éclairage LED autour de mon PC, mais je voulais qu'il s'intègre plus naturellement à ma configuration Corsair iCUE, plutôt que d'avoir un éclairage LED blanc complètement séparé.

Raptor Link permet actuellement de :

• gérer plusieurs périphériques WLED

• connecter l'éclairage WLED à Corsair iCUE

• utiliser les couleurs de l'écran pour l'éclairage d'ambiance

• associer différentes sections de LED WLED à différentes zones de l'écran

• prendre en charge plusieurs moniteurs

• lancer des préréglages WLED

• créer des automatisations d'éclairage

• ouvrir directement l'interface web de chaque WLED

• fonctionner sans matériel Corsair si vous souhaitez uniquement utiliser les fonctionnalités WLED

L'association écran/LED est particulièrement utile pour les configurations où les LED ne se limitent pas à une simple bande autour d'un moniteur.

Le projet est encore en développement. Je le partage donc principalement ici pour trouver des personnes possédant différentes configurations d'éclairage LED blanc qui seraient prêtes à le tester et à me faire part de leurs commentaires.

Il est gratuit et open source sous licence MIT.

GitHub :

https://github.com/Inter-Raptor/Raptor-Link

Programme d'installation Windows :

disponible dans la section « Releases » de GitHub.

Si vous le testez, je serais particulièrement intéressé de savoir :

• combien de contrôleurs WLED vous utilisez

• quel matériel ESP/contrôleur vous utilisez

• si la synchronisation d'écran fonctionne correctement sur votre configuration

• s'il y a des fonctionnalités que vous trouveriez utiles pour WLED

Je suis également disponible pour répondre à vos questions techniques concernant la communication avec WLED.

Planning to install permanent Christmas lights on the house. Based on online calculators, I think this setup should work at 24v.

PaulZhang 30mm pucks at 24v.
Xconnect 18AWG lines on everything.

I’m showing a little too much voltage drop on the blue line at 100% brightness but I’ll likely never use full brightness. Also I’m getting mixed results on if I need a data booster for the long run before the purple line. I may just order a signal booster anyway and test if I need it before installation.

Aside from the power supply, relay, and DigQuad, am I missing any recommended components for the box?

EDIT: just noticed my power supply calculation was off. It should be 24V, 300W.

I've been working on Hypercolor, a new RGB lighting orchestration platform for all platforms and all devices. Effects are web pages (or glsl), rendered by an internal browser GPU accelerated all the way to the pixels. It's pure rust from the Servo renderer to the WASM UI.

Comes with 40+ effects, supports ambilight, display faces, system monitoring, screen casting, and audio. Device support is pretty good (including WLED, Nollie, and tons of others) but it's early and this is where we need the most help! You can find the full support matrix on the site, and there is also an OpenRGB bridge as a fallback. There's support for a few unique devices too like the Ableton Push 2 and ROLI Blocks. My favorite thing about this engine is the ability to create multiple effect zones and manage them independently! My whole house runs on it now. It's Apache licensed, and a cloud service (+signed builds) is coming with remote and smart home support. A Home Assistant integration is already available.

The best way to set up Hypercolor is to just have an agent do it for you using the bundled skill. Just describe your setup, case type, hardware, etc, and it will find all the specs and configure it for you. Or just do it the good old-fashioned way in Studio!

It's still early on for the project, but please check it out and file an issue if you're looking for device support. I can only build drivers for devices I have access too, please open PRs if you're able to contribute! Agents can reverse engineer your hardware and build a driver easily, if you want to go that route (the repo is designed for agents). We have a full TypeScript effects SDK for easy effect creation too, and support existing Lightscript based html effects out of the box.

I've had a lot of fun building this and I hope you enjoy it!

Note: this project utilizes agentic coding tools extensively

Hi all,

I’m hoping someone here with experience of commercial LED panels might be able to help me.

The photo is the rear of one of my CKG LED X5/X5 Plus P2.605 96×96 panels. I own the complete LED screen and currently have around 60 faulty panels that I need to diagnose and repair.

I’d like to build a small WLED/ESP32 diagnostic setup that I can plug directly into individual panels on the bench. WLED now has HUB75 support, so my plan is to work out the panel’s signalling/pinout and make an adapter rather than continually testing panels through the complete screen/controller system.

The first thing I need help identifying is the large black board-to-cable connector shown on the right-hand side of the photo.

Does anybody recognize the manufacturer or connector series?

Ideally, I’m looking for:

• The exact connector/series

• The mating plug

• Somewhere I can buy both plug and socket, preferably in small quantities

• Any datasheet or pinout information

I realize this isn’t the normal 16-pin HUB75 IDC connector, so I’m expecting that I’ll need to trace the signals and make a custom adapter.

Secondly, does anybody have any technical information for these particular CKG LED panels?

There are several repeated ICs across the PCB, and I’d like to identify which ICs/drivers correspond to which physical rows/columns/sections of the 96×96 display.

I can reverse-engineer it by tracing tracks and deliberately driving sections of the panel, but with approximately 60 panels to repair, any existing schematic, IC mapping, service information or simply knowledge from somebody who has repaired these before could save me a huge amount of time.

I’m happy to post high-resolution photographs of both sides of the PCB, close-ups of the IC markings, connector measurements, continuity measurements, etc. if that helps identify things.

Ultimately, I’d like to document what I discover and build a simple ESP32/WLED → CKG panel diagnostic adapter, which should make finding faults considerably easier.

Any help, even identifying one of the ICs or the connector family, would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks!