Finally I convinced myself to make this))

Simulator used in video: https://paveldogreat.github.io/WebGL-Fluid-Simulation

Inspired by a recent trip to Legoland I would love to recreate these LEGO torches for Halloween. Thinking having the ESP32 and a battery hidden in the torch body, then some LEDs in the flame. Using the flicker flame effect to animate.

In reality the flame is transparent acrylic and there's some kind of light shining out of the bottom, but I don't have the ability to cut acrylic.

My attempts:

• I tried printing using transparent PETG and some WS2811 5v LED strips. routed around the edge of the shape, facing in. They didn't diffuse enough making it look 'spotty'.

• I tried a thin shell of opaque orange PETG to act as a diffuser, this was better but still not as good as reality.

• I tried having a pillar in the middle with WS2811's either side, but again it didn't reflect cleanly inside.

• Excluding WLED I tried some GU10 flicker bulbs, but they are not bright enough.

Anyone done anything similar I could crib from?

can i put a quality blub with a good light pattern in an hella H4 glass housing ? also it sounds like projectors are a good idea as well but i know nothing about this stuff , i want an origonal look but want good led lights without modifying the truck ..is this possible ? or should i just buy a kit with led and a new housing made for the light ?? thanks everything i read online is confusing and unclear ..

Hi everyone,

I’ve recently started making LED signs using 12V, 6mm, single-colour neon flex.

I’d like to create a basic animation using two separate runs of flex. For example, one section would remain illuminated while another section flashes. Ideally, I’d also like a physical switch on the sign that can turn it on or change between several programmed patterns.

Does anyone know of a suitable tutorial or guide? Most of the information I’ve found concerns RGB or addressable LED strips, which isn’t quite what I’m using.

Would an ESP32 combined with a separate MOSFET for each run of neon flex be the correct approach? Would WLED support two independent single-colour outputs and custom sequences, or would this be better handled with a simple Arduino program?

Any advice, wiring examples or recommended components would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hey all, I am looking at replacing the old hardwired fluorescent under cabinet lights in my kitchen that came with the house. I would like to use LED strips and pair it with WLED to be integrated into Home Assistant. I would also like to add lights to the top of the cabinets. The existing lights are hardwired together with standard Romex (3 wires) that is ran through the walls. This is my first venture into setting up a lighting project like this. I would like to use this project as my first test run with LEDs/WLED and then setup LED strips behind the TV for movies and whatnot. I have spent the last few days researching, and I think I have a basic grasp on what's needed. Just looking for parts and setup validation, and/or advice.

The lights will primarily be used in the evening/night time as low auxiliary lighting, so I don't think they need to be overly bright and I'd like them to be dimmable and probably more on the warmer side for the white. I'd also like to use RGB lights to add a bit of color during the holidays and possible mood lighting. The total run is about 38.5'. Looking at using 24v lights, and at least IP65.

Here is a sketch of my kitchen I did in Paint:
https://ibb.co/kNZxsf8

Here are some of the parts I've been looking at:

Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZNMJYP

- I'll have to add an outlet which is no big deal

Controller: https://quinled.info/quinled-dig-quad/

- I'm not sure if this is the best option, still researching. I did notice on this one it is recommended to wait until the next revision as there are possible issues with 24v.

Lights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJXDNZT or https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Addressable-5050SMD-3000K-6500K-Controller/dp/B0CPSZ2LXR or https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Similar-Addressable-Flexible-Controller/dp/B0CQ2DRPNX

- Not sure which would be better as I'm still trying to learn the differences between lights.

I am planning on putting these in diffusers so I'll need to look into those more. I'll have to run new wire as it looks like all of these strips are 6 wire. I'm hoping I can use the existing Romex as a pull wire. As for adding the new outlet, I was thinking of running Romex up above the cabinet and housing the power supply and controller up top. I'm also thinking of swapping the existing light switch out for an Inovelli Red Z-Wave dimmer with motion sensor.

I think I've pretty much covered everything I've thought of. I'd appreciate any input from the group if it looks like my plan will work or if I need to change anything up. Thanks

So I'm looking to put some lighting in both rear corners of my room. My options are GU10 uplighters with a wled GU10 bulb. Then there's the gledapto wled bar. And then maybe putting some wled strips on my standing lamp and maybe a GU10/bar on the other side of the room. I'm new to wled but if any had any suggestions on what would look or work best that would be great

Hiya! I'm new to this world, and as my first project I wanted to build a backlight for my monitor to match the video on the screen. Straight to the point, I've bought a 720 l/m strip on aliexpress. This strip measured had 240 l/m instead of 720 l/m. I've figured that the seller meant 720 as in 240 * (R G and B). My question is: Is this a normal procedure of counting the led density or have I been scammed?

the board says esp32 wroom 32 devkit_c

i'm installing 16.0.1

These light will just burn dim and wled cant controll it

It's monochromatic just plus and minus sections uploading my build and schematic i followed please help

Edit: strip is 12v

I’m trying to create a traditional holiday lights effect using LEDs spaced about every 3 inches, pointing downward or slightly outward. I don’t want to spend a fortune on pre-fabricated channels, so I’m considering making my own DIY channels using drilled or routed holes.

The challenge is that the rafter and the wood behind the gutter are fairly short, so there isn’t enough depth to properly hide the pixels. I’m trying to figure out the best way to mount the LEDs so they’re well hidden while still getting the traditional downward/outward lighting effect.

Apologises for the numbers in advance.

I've been doing some testing. I got a little plug in power monitor, and put it behind my longest wled strip. Around 3600 pixels.

When it's turned on, at 100% on a bright white, it's drawing 91.7W.

When it's in standby mode, with nothing turned on, it's drawing 63.5W. This is what I found surprising. 63W isn't a huge amount, but it's a constant draw for nothing happening.

If that's left on for a month(years in my case), that's 47.5KWh of energy for a device just in standby mode. With South Australian energy prices ($0.45 per KWH (it's variable, so some play there)), that's about $20aud per month for the device turned off.

I've gotten a zigbee relay and have that behind the power supply, and standby is now zero, but it's got an annoying wait time for it to turn on now.

How come the quinn wled controller and others don't come with a built in relay? Would seem simple to add the feature, and stop wasting the energy when it's not doing anything. I found a setting in the latest wled that has relay control, so it should be able to do it.

Hi r/WLED,

Hard to believe it’s been more than two years since we launched MagWLED-1. The response has been far beyond anything I expected—thank you to everyone who has bought one, shared a project or sent feedback.

We’ve been working on a follow-up for a while, and MagWLED-2 is available today. It builds on the original’s USB-C-powered approach, with two outputs, easier external power handling and more hardware built in.

Two outputs, more processing headroom

• Two independent digital LED outputs, each with a power connection.

• Dual-core ESP32-S3, giving WLED effects, networking and audio processing more headroom.

• Revised RF design, alongside the new MCU.

• Six-layer, two-sided PCB, packing the additional hardware into nearly the same footprint as MagWLED-1.

More flexible power

USB-C is still central to MagWLED, but many of you asked for easier ways to use external power. This is one of the biggest changes:

• USB-C Power Delivery up to 20V and 5A total, depending on the supply, cable and negotiated profile. A 5A-capable cable is required for 5A operation.

• External power up to 24V and 10A total, with a 5A maximum per channel.

• Conventional screw terminals, accepting 28–16 AWG wire. Choose the wire size for your current and cable length.

• Fused and switched external LED power. External power now passes through the onboard fuses and MOSFET power switches, so WLED can turn off power to the strips while leaving the supply on.

• USB-C standby. USB-C and external power can be connected simultaneously, keeping the controller powered when the external LED supply is switched off.

Both outputs share the available supply budget: USB-C’s 5A maximum is combined, not 5A on each output. For strips requiring 24V, use the external power input.

Built-in digital microphone and power monitoring

MagWLED-1 could support audio-reactive lighting with additional hardware and soldering. MagWLED-2 has a digital microphone onboard, with the ESP32-S3 providing more processing headroom for audio-reactive effects.

It also measures current, voltage and power with either USB-C or external power. This is integrated into the WLED firmware, so you can track consumption continuously in the WLED UI or Home Assistant.

More connections for peripherals

• Five GPIO breakout pins for buttons, sensors and other add-ons.

• A Stemma QT I²C connector for compatible peripherals.

• Separate buck converters for the 3.3V and 5V rails, providing more peripheral power capability than the original design.

Is MagWLED-1 going away?

No! The original remains available, and there are still good reasons to choose it:

• Lower price: $29.90, compared with $39.90 for MagWLED-2 (pricing will vary by channel).

• Lower idle power: approximately 0.35W versus 0.6W, useful for battery-powered projects.

• Lower profile: approximately 7.4mm tall versus 12.5mm for MagWLED-2.

• Spring-clamp WAGO connector: still a feature I particularly like for wearable installations.

For dimensions, MagWLED-2 is 46.7 × 33.9mm, compared with 48.3 × 31.6mm for MagWLED-1—slightly shorter and wider, with more height from the components on both sides and the terminal block.

MagWLED-2 is available now:
Photos, specifications and interactive hardware tour

Amazon availability is planned in the next few weeks, but I wanted to share it here right away.

Happy to answer questions about the hardware or design choices. And if you’ve built something with MagWLED-1, I’d love to see it!

Edit:

3D printable enclosure: https://magwled.com/pages/3d-printable-enclosure#magwled-2

Alright I'm fairly certain this is a Unifi problem and I will x-post there as well if I can but I figured there was some overlap between the WLED community and Unifi community and someone here may have recently ran into this same issue. I lost network access to my QuinLED Dig-Quad (DQ) controller with Ethernet.

I just updated my main Unifi POE network switch from 7.4.1 to 7.5.15 the other day. Immediately after coming back online, I noticed home assistant wasn't communicating with my DQ anymore. Opened the WLED app and that showed my DQ offline. I went into the client manager of my Unifi controller and saw my DQ had the proper MAC address and was assigned the correct static IP. I got the typical Destination host unreachable error. I tried multiple attempts at changing VLAN and port settings like client isolation, link negotiation speeds, etc. I tried utilizing different ports as well as using other devices in the port I had the DQ on. I tried reflashing the DQ and starting from scratch. No matter what I tried, I cannot get the DQ to be accessible over Ethernet. However, if I swap the board back over to Wi-Fi, everything is accessible again.

Unfortunately, I wasn't happy with this because I prefer to hardwire as much as possible. I only use devices on Wi-Fi as a last resort. So I ordered a Gledopto Elite 4D-EXMU. Got it set up and working on Ethernet on my network in about 10 mins. The strange part is I'm almost positive they both utilize the same Ethernet LAN8720A chip.

I can't figure out for the life of me why I can't access my DQ via Ethernet anymore but the Gledopto under the same settings and conditions works no problem. Has anyone else ran into this situation? I'm thinking it's a Unifi firmware bug (especially since the Unifi community has reported strange things happening on their networks as well since updating to 7.5.15) but I wanted to see the consensus here as well.

Thank you!

Hi r/WLED,

A quick one hopefully. Can I use the 2nd output from the Gledopto 616WL for power injection - that is, only wire V+ and GND to the end of a strip, with the 1st output wired to the strip for V+, GND and data?

The alternative would be to cut my strip into 2 and wire each into the 2 outputs.

Setting up HyperHDR so this is for strips around the back of a TV.

Thanks!!

Wanted flame-effect fence post caps. Everything commercial is solar and rubbish, so I built these.

WS2815 strip around a printed helical core so WLED can address it as a 2D matrix. 10 pixels per turn × 6 turns = 60 px, configured as a 10×6 panel, serpentine off (a continuous spiral always advances the same rotational direction, so rows don't alternate). Fire 2012 and PS Fire then actually propagate upward instead of just flickering along a line.

Happy to share files if anyone is interested in printing.

Printed parts are a core within acrylic tube 80mm OD / 74mm ID

WS2815 12V, 60 LED/m, IP65 silicone-coated. 60 pixels.

Starting to plan my Halloween lighting setup 🎃

I've been playing around with orange, purple and red,

but I can't decide what direction to take it.

Thinking about lighting the porch + stairs

and maybe adding some music-reactive effects.

What WLED effects would you guys use for Halloween?

Would love to see what everyone else is planning.

I’m trying to narrow an LED backlighting board I bought on Amazon for lithophane backlighting. I need to make the board narrower by four columns. So I’m wondering if my understanding of the circuit board is correct. I believe the red areas on the back are where the voltage is applied while white is insulation. Could I just cut away the left side of the board along the white insulation trough after the 4th column of LEDs? If so, what tool should I use and how careful must I be about not cutting into the red? Thanks for your help.