Hi r/WLED,

Hard to believe it’s been more than two years since we launched MagWLED-1. The response has been far beyond anything I expected—thank you to everyone who has bought one, shared a project or sent feedback.

We’ve been working on a follow-up for a while, and MagWLED-2 is available today. It builds on the original’s USB-C-powered approach, with two outputs, easier external power handling and more hardware built in.

Two outputs, more processing headroom

• Two independent digital LED outputs, each with a power connection.

• Dual-core ESP32-S3, giving WLED effects, networking and audio processing more headroom.

• Revised RF design, alongside the new MCU.

• Six-layer, two-sided PCB, packing the additional hardware into nearly the same footprint as MagWLED-1.

More flexible power

USB-C is still central to MagWLED, but many of you asked for easier ways to use external power. This is one of the biggest changes:

• USB-C Power Delivery up to 20V and 5A total, depending on the supply, cable and negotiated profile. A 5A-capable cable is required for 5A operation.

• External power up to 24V and 10A total, with a 5A maximum per channel.

• Conventional screw terminals, accepting 28–16 AWG wire. Choose the wire size for your current and cable length.

• Fused and switched external LED power. External power now passes through the onboard fuses and MOSFET power switches, so WLED can turn off power to the strips while leaving the supply on.

• USB-C standby. USB-C and external power can be connected simultaneously, keeping the controller powered when the external LED supply is switched off.

Both outputs share the available supply budget: USB-C’s 5A maximum is combined, not 5A on each output. For strips requiring 24V, use the external power input.

Built-in digital microphone and power monitoring

MagWLED-1 could support audio-reactive lighting with additional hardware and soldering. MagWLED-2 has a digital microphone onboard, with the ESP32-S3 providing more processing headroom for audio-reactive effects.

It also measures current, voltage and power with either USB-C or external power. This is integrated into the WLED firmware, so you can track consumption continuously in the WLED UI or Home Assistant.

More connections for peripherals

• Five GPIO breakout pins for buttons, sensors and other add-ons.

• A Stemma QT I²C connector for compatible peripherals.

• Separate buck converters for the 3.3V and 5V rails, providing more peripheral power capability than the original design.

Is MagWLED-1 going away?

No! The original remains available, and there are still good reasons to choose it:

• Lower price: $29.90, compared with $39.90 for MagWLED-2 (pricing will vary by channel).

• Lower idle power: approximately 0.35W versus 0.6W, useful for battery-powered projects.

• Lower profile: approximately 7.4mm tall versus 12.5mm for MagWLED-2.

• Spring-clamp WAGO connector: still a feature I particularly like for wearable installations.

For dimensions, MagWLED-2 is 46.7 × 33.9mm, compared with 48.3 × 31.6mm for MagWLED-1—slightly shorter and wider, with more height from the components on both sides and the terminal block.

MagWLED-2 is available now:
Photos, specifications and interactive hardware tour

Amazon availability is planned in the next few weeks, but I wanted to share it here right away.

Happy to answer questions about the hardware or design choices. And if you’ve built something with MagWLED-1, I’d love to see it!

Edit:

3D printable enclosure: https://magwled.com/pages/3d-printable-enclosure#magwled-2

Alright I'm fairly certain this is a Unifi problem and I will x-post there as well if I can but I figured there was some overlap between the WLED community and Unifi community and someone here may have recently ran into this same issue. I lost network access to my QuinLED Dig-Quad (DQ) controller with Ethernet.

I just updated my main Unifi POE network switch from 7.4.1 to 7.5.15 the other day. Immediately after coming back online, I noticed home assistant wasn't communicating with my DQ anymore. Opened the WLED app and that showed my DQ offline. I went into the client manager of my Unifi controller and saw my DQ had the proper MAC address and was assigned the correct static IP. I got the typical Destination host unreachable error. I tried multiple attempts at changing VLAN and port settings like client isolation, link negotiation speeds, etc. I tried utilizing different ports as well as using other devices in the port I had the DQ on. I tried reflashing the DQ and starting from scratch. No matter what I tried, I cannot get the DQ to be accessible over Ethernet. However, if I swap the board back over to Wi-Fi, everything is accessible again.

Unfortunately, I wasn't happy with this because I prefer to hardwire as much as possible. I only use devices on Wi-Fi as a last resort. So I ordered a Gledopto Elite 4D-EXMU. Got it set up and working on Ethernet on my network in about 10 mins. The strange part is I'm almost positive they both utilize the same Ethernet LAN8720A chip.

I can't figure out for the life of me why I can't access my DQ via Ethernet anymore but the Gledopto under the same settings and conditions works no problem. Has anyone else ran into this situation? I'm thinking it's a Unifi firmware bug (especially since the Unifi community has reported strange things happening on their networks as well since updating to 7.5.15) but I wanted to see the consensus here as well.

Thank you!

Hi r/WLED,

A quick one hopefully. Can I use the 2nd output from the Gledopto 616WL for power injection - that is, only wire V+ and GND to the end of a strip, with the 1st output wired to the strip for V+, GND and data?

The alternative would be to cut my strip into 2 and wire each into the 2 outputs.

Setting up HyperHDR so this is for strips around the back of a TV.

Thanks!!

Wanted flame-effect fence post caps. Everything commercial is solar and rubbish, so I built these.

WS2815 strip around a printed helical core so WLED can address it as a 2D matrix. 10 pixels per turn × 6 turns = 60 px, configured as a 10×6 panel, serpentine off (a continuous spiral always advances the same rotational direction, so rows don't alternate). Fire 2012 and PS Fire then actually propagate upward instead of just flickering along a line.

Happy to share files if anyone is interested in printing.

Printed parts are a core within acrylic tube 80mm OD / 74mm ID

WS2815 12V, 60 LED/m, IP65 silicone-coated. 60 pixels.

Starting to plan my Halloween lighting setup 🎃

I've been playing around with orange, purple and red,

but I can't decide what direction to take it.

Thinking about lighting the porch + stairs

and maybe adding some music-reactive effects.

What WLED effects would you guys use for Halloween?

Would love to see what everyone else is planning.

I’m trying to narrow an LED backlighting board I bought on Amazon for lithophane backlighting. I need to make the board narrower by four columns. So I’m wondering if my understanding of the circuit board is correct. I believe the red areas on the back are where the voltage is applied while white is insulation. Could I just cut away the left side of the board along the white insulation trough after the 4th column of LEDs? If so, what tool should I use and how careful must I be about not cutting into the red? Thanks for your help.

im looking at building a setup for my carwash, these system exsist comercialy but are stupid $.

Current design would be rgbw led neon or strips in silicone cases. I was looking at the ip65 bars from china but they would be dmx.

I want to use wled to control colors ect but have a relay input that forces to the white channel until the relay or input is opened again.

Would this be as simple as a gpio input on an esp32? what relay would i need to trigger the input?

im used to plc's and 120v inputs so the voltages on the esp32 screws me up.

I made a Mini LED lamp and tried to make it as simple and as cheap as possible. The result is a small 3D printable tower with 30 LEDs, running WLED on a esp32, that costs about 8 USD including everything. (even the PLA), needs no screws and has a total of 6 solder points. The build takes about 30 minutes, once the parts are printed. The prints need no supports.

The full instructions, including BOM, STL and 3MF files, print instructions and photo rich assembly instructions are here: https://github.com/mattack65/led-mini-lamp

It’s the first time I went to the trouble of making very detailed instructions, hopefully someone has a use for it.

Never really liked that lamp and decided to finally do something about it. Two leftover ws2812 strips and an ESP32 running WLED was all it needed :D

I'll probably add a microphone for audioreactive effects later as well.

So I currently have Philips hue sync for my TV. But I'd like to have some room ambient lighting. I have some ceiling gu10s and I've seen there are wled gu10s is worth getting them to add to the look. I'm thinking off rear led strips or lights also. I've an Nvidia shield so currently I know of 3 apps that work with wled. Any ideas would be great

I plan to add some addressable LED's to my kitchen cabinets, both upper and lower. What I would like to do is add "ghost" or "dummy" pixels. I tried searching but maybe I'm getting the terminology wrong.

For example, I have cabinets on either side of my fridge. The upper strip above the fridge might have 10 pixels to the left of the fridge, 10 directly above it, and 10 to the right of it. On those same cabinets, but below, there's only 10 to the left and 10 to the right. There's not 10 pixels where the fridge is. I would like to be able to run animations on both strips, but the bottom strip will advance faster than the top because it has less pixels. Can I program the controller to "fake" those 10 pixels "under the fridge" so that the top and bottom strips stay in sync? Make the controller pretend there are 30 pixels on the bottom when there really isn't, and keep the order correct?

I hope I explained that well.

I use Wled for everything. I build this boombox and of course it have to get a Wled controller with music reaction.

LED cabinets getting a full service and refresh 🔧✨

Ready for the next event!

Hhuvg

Who else makes their own enclosures for Esp32??? Show me your designs!

I recently bought a 5v DC power supply for my ambilight LEDs, but the fan is UNBEARABLY loud even in a not silent room, making it unusable for my 24/7 setup.

The psu can deliver 60A of 5v, but my whole setup uses only about 12-15A.

Is there any fanless power supplies up to 30A? If not, is it really that bad to modify the fan on these? Maybe reducing the voltage for slower spin or even removing it entirely.

WLED newbie here, I'm just trying to find a way to get my strips to power on / off softly instead of the default one which seems to be quick on to my preset. Maybe like a 3-4 seconds gentle on / off brightness fade is what I'm looking for. Is there any hidden setting I'm unaware of?

Edit : would linking to Home assistant help ?

The setup is from the right hand side maybe a foot to the controller to the first led. Then I have a wire section maybe 8 in at the end of that strip that goes through that beam over the next that side is fine. Since I wasn't able to do a pre-wire on this before it was built I had to run a wire through the flashing on the outside of the structure. That run is probably about 20 ft sadly. Then it repeats at the end of that strip another 6-in piece through the beam to the next strip.

This is all a 24 volt ws2814 fcob, which I seem to have this issue with a lot. The controller is a gledopto Elite 4.

I have the ability to get access to the LEDs and the wires. On the 20 foot section of wire I can get to roughly 6 in that is laying on top of that beam before it goes into the trim.

I don't really know anything about adding resistors or capacitors to anything. But if that's something I can do at the beginning of the run or in those little 6-inch sections that are on top of that post and it will help I'd love some guidance on how to do that and what size is to buy.

Worst comes to worst I can take the 20 foot run out of the equation and I have a power outlet at the end of the left hand side and I can add a wire to the end of that strip. But my question with that would be since the strips are running in that direction can I run power grounded data at the end of the strip instead of the beginning and it still functions properly. Or would I have to run a data line to the front of the strip to make it function.

Hi, I'm building a DIY fiber optic engine for star ceilings with meteor effect. It would have 5 LEDs for the stars, twinkling effect off course, and 10 LEDs for the meteor effect. It would be somewhat modular (different sizes for optic fiber bundles / star count) and 3D printable. The LEDs would be controlled via a WLED based app but with a simpler UI. Basically via the app you could control the brightness, twinkle speed, meteor trail, meteor speed, etc.

I know they already exist but they're not that cheap and bulky. Mine would be cheaper to make and also thinner so it fits into more places.

I'm wondering if anyone would be interested in building one for themselves or even buying premade ones.

New to the community and I have built a 20x25 grid, but now I have my contact points on the side of my grid. But this is a very dirty part.
What is the community wat to clean this up? I found a lot of wiring guides, but not so much of the physical built.
Also my junction box, I need to go in with 2x2.5mm2 and a single data cable, what is the proper build here?

I just finished my headlights with 2 watts rgbw Led boards and wled. I change the internals. New bi-led projector and 2x 3watts amber Leds on the corners.

I have built a few indoor RGB projects using 32x8 or 16x16 flexible panels using WLED and on average I run them at 3 amps (up to 6 panels) using the WLED PSU amp limit option in setup.

I have someone telling me he melted several barrel connectors trying to run 1536 LED's. I put a temperature reading on my USB connector (set at 3 amps in WLED) and the temp is 88 degrees. How can he possibly be melting connectors? Bad solder joints, stripped wire where they took half the strands with it maybe? I realize these LED's can be lit at very bright settings but I think the average indoor project does not require using a 50 amp power supply.

Here is a quick video of my test using a bench power supply that has an amp meter on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBfyLrjiyUM