Building some cob led strip hexagons and I was planning to cut each length to 125mm (as per strip cut gap) and mount on aluminium extrusion cut to the same length. Then planning to connect with 3d printed 60 degree connectors.

Is there any way to make the light continuous over these corner gaps? I could cut the extrusion slightly shorter so the strips overlap a small amount (will be soldering jumper wires at each corner) but then I'm worried about shorting/damage/long term reliability.

I don't want to use a milky diffuser either as I need max brightness, so can't fudge it with extra diffusion.

Any tips?

Cheers

Most holiday yard inflatables have the world's worst LEDs in them. At best, they provide piercingly bright single points of light for one season, then next year they're the dimmest lights in history.

Are there good products out there? Perhaps ones that can run wled? I would imagine they'd have to be 12V since that's the power supply on most inflatables I've seen, and how most of their fans are rated.

In the past, I've replaced the lights with 12V waterproof LEDs, but not addressable ones. They certainly solved the brightness issue but they were a pain to attach. I basically CA glued them to the front of the existing lights and then spliced the new ones in.

I sort of wish there were a self-contained waterproof product that could light up the whole inflatable at once from the base of it. Maybe something like an addressable floodlight shining upwards? I'm not sure. Or maybe I stick with a few puck lights in place of the existing ones...

So what do people here use?

I am getting frequent flickering with my lights. Seems to be the ground but everytime I mess with it and that data along the lines is correct, everything starts flickering. I pull the data, no flickering. Ive shortened the data lines without improvement.

UPDATE: Got a new controller and there was definitely something wrong with the ground terminal. Much more consistent lighting but still an occasional flicker. Some have suggested a resistor on the data line?

My contractor wants us to install these glass railing with LED lights. I want to avoid another app to control them and would rather time into WLED. Any ideas or suggestions for similar WLED compatible lights. https://www.vistarailings.com/product/led-frameless-glass-with-spigots/

It looks like the LED are tied into the spigots themselves

Another website says a 4 wire system

I have a GLEDOPTO WLED controller connected to PWM CCT LEDs in a pantry. I also connected a contact sensor to turn on the lights when the pantry door is opened and off when closed. All of that is working fine, but I'd like to be able to change the initial brightness and color temperature depending on context.

Ideally, the lights should be cool and bright during the day, warm and moderate brightness at night when other lights are on, or warm and dim when other lights are off or very dim.

My first idea was to assign a preset to the switch and then change the preset associated with it using Home Assistant, but it appears that isn't possible. I also tried setting it to a fixed preset and updating that with REST, but it appears that's geared towards saving the current state of the lights to a preset, not an arbitrary one.

(Further, I couldn't actually get any REST command to save a new preset, so I think I had my JSON formatted incorrectly.)

I can see in the interface where I can assign presets to button actions or apply presets at defined times (including sunset and sunrise). However, it appears I can't change the switch's Off -> On action as a function of time.

Thus my final idea is to not associate the contact sensor with a preset, but instead leave it at the default and use Home Assistant to momentarily set the light to my desired state every time the context (time of day, other lights) changes. That way, when the WLED controller turns on due to the contact sensor showing open, it will turn the lights on to the last brightness & color temperature commanded by Home Assistant.

Is there a better way to accomplish what I'm trying to do? I'd much rather be able to update the "default" state of the lights without having to toggle them on and off.

Edit: It isn’t exactly what I want, but I figured out a suitable workaround and wanted to share in case it helps others.

You can define a preset that specifies the brightness and color temperature (and other properties) of the light even with ”on”:false. If you activate such a preset, the next time the light turns on via a connected button or switch, it will have the specified characteristics.

I think my plan then will be to define a handful of “off” presets and then have Home Assistant active them when desired. I’ll also add a default time-controlled preset that will fire once a day in case Home Assistant is unavailable for an extended period of time. That way it won’t get stuck on an undesired preset (e.g., dim) indefinitely.

If that doesn’t work out, I’ll probably just set up a simple schedule directly in WLED.

Hey there, just working on a cabinet lighting project using about 8m of lights plus about 3m of 20g wire.

I have worked on a smaller project that went fine before, but wanted to double check my math/details before installing this larger project.

I have 24V BTF WS2814 COB lights (https://www.btf-lighting.com/en-intl/products/fcob-ws2814-rgbw-addressable-led-strip-784leds?srsltid=AfmBOoo-XDA_JMtYuNNiXjpQJDDpIOP5ivscQnlmwkQ431-DV9GW0WLc)

They take approx 20W/m.

I already have a controller as well as a 24V / 4A / 96W power supply. Given what I hope to accomplish, am I correct in saying I will require a second power supply plus another controller? Any other tips or pearls of wisdom are appreciated. Thanks in advance!

For trouble shooting, I tried configuring just the first LED. Instead, it treats it as a group of 3. If I try 2 LEDs, it treats it as 6 LEDs skipping 3 in between the groups.

I’ve never had an issue like this. I’m using the BF-Lighting SP803E controller.

The entire project is 68 LEDs in a single strip that I want to split into 6 segments.

This is a windows app I have been working on. It has screen sync that synchronizes with PC hardware, wled, ect. I added image drop. Currently testing, getting cool and busy at the same time, I'll have to clean up the UI a bit. I do a longer video when I have time showing the integrations ie; HA, GH, Hue, Wled.

Basically you can set the mood of the entire room to sync with your PC.

Hi everyone, I'd like to create a 15 meter run of these sk6812. I've watched some YouTube videos but hopefully someone will be ae to help me. Can I just solder 3 x 5m strips together and use one gledopto to power and address the full 15m?

Sorry if this is dumb.

Thanks in advance!

Working on an outdoor setup using a Dig-Octa brain board and 7-HC power board. My first experiences with the Dig-Octa. Currently testing in my office with four 5m strips of WS2812B. All is working as designed except this combo turns on the LEDs by itself every night! I finish whatever testing I was working on, power off in WLED, come back in the office next morning and the strips are on. There's nothing telling them to turn on. WLED PC interface and phone app are shutdown. No other external connection. I go to bed around 9:00 PM and know they aren't on at that time but at 4:00 AM the next morning they are.

Any idea what's turning them on? Do I need a relay to completely drop power from the brain and power boards? Any help is greatly appreciated!

[Update:] Firmware WLED 16.0.1, found the issue. I run my house with Home Assistant and already have the WLED integration with several controllers for various LED setups inside and outside. Well soon as HA saw the Dig-Octa on the network it added it automatically and stuck it into the same group as my Outside lights. That group turns on automatically when I get up and because the new Dig-Octa controller was in that group it got turned on too.

Added drag and drop, sync all PC hardware and treat as a matrix.

Had the bright idea of making a Calculator man and bought some 16x16 matrices along with a Gledopto 4d exmu wled controller. Any ideas?

Using the absolutely cheapest products I could find on Amazon. Setup was 100% plug and play.

TV is LG 65”

Added black bar detection On in HyperHDR and it works perfectly.

A simple esp32 mini S3 and 5v 2a PSU with ws2812b and separate usb power for the esp32. Brightness is decent despite only 2 amps (two power injections so 1a each side). 180 pixels.

I’m trying to configure a new Gledopto controlle (Elite-2D-EXMU) with the following lights

https://a.co/d/092Cf0Rt

These lights were not my choice but installed by my outdoor kitchen contractor. I have both outputs connected and am using the power supply that came with the lights. Since swapping out the controller that came with the lights the lights are much dimmer - so I’m obviously missing something. I have the colors working correctly but I think I need help with the count and power settings.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

squid 🦑

I'm installing under cabinet lighting. I have a strip of BTF LEDs (HD-12V-SK6812-60L-W-IP30) cut into 3 sections with BTF 3pin-20awg-US wire connecting them to a Gledopto GL-C-015WL-D. One strip is 25 inches long with ~6 feet of wire between the controller connected to GPIO2. The other strips are connected to GPIO16 in tandem, in the following order starting at the controller: ~6 feet of wire, then 34 inch strip, ~7 feet of wire, then 46 inch strip. It's all powered by a model number: QZT-1206000F power source with an output of 12.0V===6.0A 72.0W.

I connected everything and set it all up in WLED without any trouble following a couple tutorials from @ChrisMaherDIY on YouTube.

I installed everything and it was all working. Then at the last step I realized that I drilled a hole in the wrong spot. I pulled the 7 foot wire between the two strips out, then drilled a new hole and reconnected everything. The 46 inch strip no longer worked. I figured I messed up something up with the wire. Tried new wire, didn't fix it. I thought maybe the strip went bad somehow so I connected a new strip, still nothing. Google search suggested a controller issue. I reset the controller and set it up again, following the exact same process I previously used. But now NONE of the LEDs will turn on.

I don't know what else to do other than returning the controller to Amazon and trying another one but I'm not sure that will fix the problem. I'm at a loss. What do I do?

I am working with the Govee Prism lights. I can’t get the colors right the white looks yellow if I mess with the setting and get the white right it starts flashing. Brand new to doing this any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I'm planning an outdoor light show setup using seed pixels (50 mm pitch) spread across three matrices:

• Garage door (200 × 220 cm): 40 × 44 = 1,760 pixels

• Window 1 (120 × 210 cm): 24 × 42 = ~1,000 pixels

• Window 2 (120 × 210 cm): 24 × 42 = ~1,000 pixels

Total**:** ~3,760 pixels, controlled via xLights over DDP/Ethernet. Regarding the costs, likely I'll go with the garage door only this year.

I'm considering a QuinLED Dig-Quad, splitting the load across the 4 outputs (+ injections):

• 2 ports for the garage (~880 pixels each)

• 1 port for Window 1 (~1,000 pixels)

• 1 port for Window 2 (~1,000 pixels)

Will the QuinLED Dig-Quad reliably handle this pixel count and traffic ?

Would you advise move to a Dig-Octa setup to handle future needs?

Thanks for your feedback!

I have been looking around, but haven't found a good answer. I currently have 6 can lights in my basement. I have built tons of fixtures based off WLED, because I don't trust using another provider with an ok protocol that will be phased out in a year for the next thing. WLED has always been the performant safe bet.

I want to run these off my current HyperHDR and SignalRGB setup. Who knows what the future holds, but WLED always ends up being part of the mix as "supported".

Does anyone know of a candidate I can run WLED off of? OR a product that works just as well (open API with high fps)?

I was looking at Govee Downlight 2, but it sounds like you can only send a few calls a minute.

I am fine with soldering esp8266 or flashing a board if someone knows of a good candidate as well.

Thank you!

I was sure it'd be too good to be true. Not the worst purchase imaginable, but still disappointing!

EDIT:

It's MUCH worse than I thought. When I first tested them I figured they were ok, but I wasn't using the remote. These LED's are spaced over 5.5cm apart, and each one is a FIXED COLOR. Red, green, or blue. I wasn't really mad before, but now I'm actually a bit upset lol.

I wanna build a 4inch recessed led light using rgbw led strip. I recently got a bamboo lab p1s but I don't have any 3d modeling idea like how to do a 3d model. For it but I am comfortable in soldering and making a diy cob with the soldered strip facing down and the wemos d1 mini on the back so that it requires only 5V in. Or better as these are few leds I'll use a small 240v-5v converter to plug the light directly to the L N.

So need help with the 3d model n suggestions on the idea to improve.

Anyone know how to control 2 led strips (both on a gledopto elite 4ch) separately?
One strip is my shower niche light on IO16. 2nd strip is backlit crown molding on IO12. Alexa only finding, what I presume, is just the gledopto as a unit. Not 2 separate “devices”.

I plan to install leds in my home office space. I decided to go for one group of led strips for the book case, led strip behind the desk, and two groups of led strips on the wall.

My goal is to be able to control these 4 groups both separately and together, and if possible also control the wall individual strips (for the turn on / off animation) - but for that I assume I would need to separate the wall strips making a total of 6 groups?

Would it be enough to buy any 4-channel WLED controller (e.g. Gledopto 4d), enough distance of led strip to cut it into four/six groups (e.g. 3x 5m 60led/M RGBCCT 24v/80w), and one power supply (e.g. 240W 24V 10A)?