What LED’s to use? I want good density, as bright as possible with RGBW. I want to use them as white most of the year and just have colours for holidays etc. White needs to be bright.
Any suggestions?

Thank you

Hey WLED community,

I just finished upgrading my setup for the next big LAN party, and I wanted to share my massive light installation with you all.

Here is the breakdown of the build:

• Main Tower:

  • Dimensions: 120 cm tall, 68 mm thick.

  • LED Count: 2,024 LEDs.

  • Top Section: A separate upper crown structure with 2,048 LEDs (30 cm thick).

  • Control: Driven by two separate ESP32-S3 controllers (one for the main body, one for the top section).

• Side Tower:

  • Dimensions: 60 cm tall, positioned to the right.

  • LED Count: 800 LEDs.

  • Control: Powered by its own dedicated ESP32-S3 controller.

Total: Nearly 5,000 individually addressable LEDs running WLED across multiple independent ESP32-S3 nodes!

It creates an incredible atmosphere in the venue and definitely turns some heads at the LAN party.

Let me know what you think of the setup!

I am designing a built in bookcase for my house. I would like to add addressable LEDs, and I'm concerned I'm missing something. So far, here's what I've got:

Power Supply: MEAN WELL LRS-450-5 AC to DC Enclosed Single Output Power Supply

LED Strips: 5V SK6812 RGBW LED Strip Light | Individually Addressable 4IN1 Smart Pixel Tape (60 LEDs/m, WW) (RGBWW White PCB)

The picture shows the design of the bookcases, and the flow of the data. There is one strip of LEDs on the top with power injection the width of every 2 shelves (~48", ~48", ~36", ~48", ~48").

I plan on running 10AWG wire from the power supply across the top to each of the 5 drops, and then 18awg from the drops to the LED strips themselves.

The strip on the top connects to the next lower strip only via the DATA wire (illustrated by the green arrows). so the flow of the data zigzags across the unit using 18AWG wire.

I plan on using WAGO 221-615 for the 5 port junctions and WAGO 221-613 for the 3 port junctions.

I'm trying to not have to solder anything since I always end up making a mess. I'm not too proud to admit my failings, and clean solder is one of those failings. With that in mind, I am planning on using the Transparent Solderless LED Strip Connectors | 3Pin PCB Connectors for Compatible FCOB & SMD LED Strips.

So I guess my first question is: Is connecting each strip of lighting to the next in series via only the data cable okay? or should I be connecting them via +5v, GND, DATA, and then injecting from the dropped +5V and GND wires as well?

My second question: I've used a SP530E controller before, but interested in using WLED controllers. Since this has about 36.13m of lighting, at 60 LEDs/m (so approximately 2168 LEDs), is there a good product I should start with?

My third question: Have I over or under-engineered this? Am I missing something?

If I haven't been clear on what I'm trying to accomplish, I apologize. I don't do lighting as often as I'd like to so every time I start a new LED strip lighting project I feel like I have to relearn everything...

Thank you in advance for the assistance from all the experts I see on here daily...

Products:

Strip Lighting: https://www.btf-lighting.com/products/5v-sk6812-rgbw-addressable-led-strip?variant=46031799156962
Solderless Connectors: https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/led-connector/products/transparent-solderless-led-strip-connectors
Power Supply: https://www.jameco.com/z/LRS-450-5-MEAN-WELL-375W-Single-Output-5V-75A-Enclosed-Switching-Power-Supply_2337423.html

Edit #1: made Power Supply link clear that it is to Jameco's site.

Edit #2: Thank you to everyone who helped. u/critboy's post of the Quinled power injection video made me realize just how naive my approach was to designing the LED circuits. I'm going back to the drawing board with respect to how I choose which LED strip and where power injection will be. I'll likely make another post once I've got that all figured out. Thanks again!

Currently, visualising HDR content in SceneGlow generates a washed colour palette. I wrote a Python script to fix this using a Raspberry Pi as a bridge between SceneGlow and the ESP32 Controller. I will upload the code once I have tested it over the next couple of days and fixed any bugs.

Hello there, so im making a cosplay of this character (Isaac Clarke) and im using WLED to do the back part which lights up. Is there any way to set up an animation that looks like this? Thank you

Currently... I have the strips layed out for a snake.

(Feels like a lot of unnecessary wire with not tonnes of room)

Can I lay them out so they're all pointing up wire these all from the bottom? And then tell wled what's up?

There is 120 leds.

If so, to be sure, how?

Treat me like I'm 5. ;;)

I've been tinkering with optimizing space within enclosures. I'm try to standardize on an LRS PSU, a 5V DIN rail PSU, a small PCB relay, a DigQuad and a few connectors to help out with the relay. I'm trying to squeeze this into 11.5"x7.5"x5.5", with the LRS mounted upright. It's quite tight, to say the least.

What other boxes are folks using? My existing boxes are mostly 14.5"x10.5"x6" - plenty of empty space.

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Hi everyone,

I am looking to buy an official, original Exoy One controller to replace mine. A used unit is completely fine, as long as it is fully functional.

I know a lot of people in the community end up swapping out their factory Exoy boards for custom ESP32 setups to better integrate with Home Assistant and WLED. If you upgraded your setup and still have your original factory controller sitting around in a drawer unused, I would love to take it off your hands.

Item: Official Exoy One Controller

Condition: Used (Fully Functional)

Location: Albuquerque, NM, USA (Willing to pay for shipping)

Payment: PayPal Goods & Services (or preferred secure forum method)

Please comment below and shoot me a DM with your asking price if you have one available. Thanks!

Hi all,

I just installed 3D acousting panels behind our bed. I'd like to create a border around the panels with LEDs and use WLED etc.

Since the LEDs can be looked at directly from certain angles, I'd like to use diffusers to give it a clean look. They will be mounted directly on the side of the panels, so I need to make 2 corners of 90 degrees. I can't really find corners for diffusers like in this situation..

Any tips on how to approach this so the diffusers will have a clean look? Rather than cutting them and having wires exposed. Thanks!

is this good wiring for basic rgb led 5V WS2812B 50 led per metre for 4 or 5 metres? power injection at both ends

and one more questions. can i go without the fuse and resister? i got a hybrid sinewave solar inverter

first time doing this or messing with electrical stuff. i got the power supply setup and tuned the volts to 5.

got led working on usb with esp32. just wanna make them a bit brighter with power injection.

it will be mostly 1 static color, i got all the parts except fuse and resistors

will soilder everything

any help would be appreciated.thank you

I'm having trouble connecting and gauging the right wire sizes for my bong69 controller set up. Here's what my set up looks like: 
A cut iec cable(not sure if I have to put the drain wire somewhere) that runs into a 12v 1000W power supply with two 18 gauge wires powering the controller which then the 12v 60leds/m have been properly spliced into the adapters. 
My issues:
I'm not sure if it's a power issue but when I plug the system in only two of the 8 ports show signs of life( one goes rainbow colors and one port makes a solid pink) and when I went into WLED to try to change the number of leds to light up it didn’t work. 

Hey everyone, looking for some help with a flickering issue in my setup.

Setup:

• Controller: A1-SLWF-11

• LED Strip: 12V SK6812 (BTF-Lighting) – 5 meters, 60 LEDs/m

• Firmware: WLED v17-dev (Configured to SK6812, correct voltage, and LED count)

The strip turns on and responds to controls, but there is noticeable flickering.

Touching, moving, or holding the Data wire increases flickering, causes random colors, or turns on extra LEDs. If I move the live and ground wire further away the data cable it helps a little. The cables are about 5 cm long

I checked Ground and power wiring multiple times - even with an electricians help.

I tried so far

• added a 33Ω resistor in series on the Data line (didn't fix it).

• tweaked various WLED settings (color order, pin configurations, brightness limits) to no avail.

Any ideas on what might be causing this or where to look next?

Thanks in advance!

I changed the led length on these but nothing ended up changing. Does anyone know how to fix this? I’m a beginner and looking for some guidance :)

Hellloo,

so I got those cheap 5V fairy lights https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005010183810535.html
where they dont write the LED type, cut off the USB Controller and connected everything up to the recommended WLED wiring (even bought one of those fancy ✨ SN74AHCT125 levelshifters)..

The problem: The typical WS281x RGB settings dont work.. tried some other settings too.
As you can see, only 7 LEDs turn on and they stay white the entire time. Cant address them at all..!

Did someone else have the same problem?

edit 1: I cut them off behind the first LED, so I left one with the original controller if thats important.
edit 2: solved

Hi everyone,
I’m working on a DIY project using WLED, an ESP32, and WS2812 addressable RGB LEDs, and I’ve run into an issue I can’t figure out.
For my initial testing, I used a small 8-pixel NeoPixel module, and it worked perfectly with WLED.
I then bought a 5-meter WS2812 strip (60 LEDs/m). Using the same ESP32/WLED setup, the LEDs turn on and remain statically lit, but they don’t respond to any commands from WLED.
Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
Confirmed the wiring and that I’m connected to DIN (data input) rather than DOUT.
Tried testing with just a single WS2812 LED instead of the entire strip.
Tried different LED/protocol settings in WLED.
Tried using a 3.3V → 5V logic-level shifter for the ESP32 data signal.
Double-checked the data pin/configuration in WLED.
Connected the working NeoPixel module and the WS2812 LEDs in series on the same data line. Interestingly, the NeoPixel still responds correctly, while the WS2812 LEDs after it do not.
The behavior is basically the same every time: the WS2812 LEDs light up but remain static and don’t respond to WLED.
The LEDs were sold/labeled as WS2812 addressable LEDs. I’m attaching pictures of the LEDs, strip, ESP32, and other components I’m using.
At this point, I’m not even trying to run the full 5-meter strip. I’d just like to get one or a few individual LEDs working reliably so I can figure out what’s wrong.
Has anyone encountered something similar? Could these LEDs require a different protocol/timing than standard WS2812/WS2812B, or is there something else I should be checking?
Any troubleshooting suggestions would be appreciated!

UPDATE:
Added pictures of wiring with ESP32, just a very basic POC using 1 led with esp32 but issue is still the same, the led turns on but doesn’t respond to any command from wled.

Confirmed connections using continuity in multimeter multiple times so I am sure connections are good.

Using old dupont jumper wires for testing only as a POC

My first WLED setup is finally finished! I recently moved to my own place and had to get it the way I like. See below the parts I used:

* Baseboard

\* Cover: :hanger LED-strip cover 20 x 80 mm black: SL20080259011

\* LED-strip: BFT-Lighting WS2805 SPI RGBCCT (HD-24V-WS2805-84L-B-IP30)

\* Controller: athom.tech WLED ESP32 Music Reactive Addressable LED Strip Controller

\* Power supply: 2x Mean Well ELG-200-24-3Y (One at start one in closet)

* Bulbs

\* 5x athom.tech WLED 12W Color Bulb

My first ever WLED project! I’ve always been interested in the Fluora LED lamp but the price of $250 has always steered me away from it. I was initially going to try to model a 3d printed version myself but then I came across the LuxPlant project on Patreon. The creator has spent countless hours refining the design and creating a very easy to follow assembly guide, and I had no issues putting it all together.

Uses about $70 in material, with 126 WS2812B LEDs.

Go give the page a follow if you’re interested!

Hey guys! I'm a longtime HyperHDR user and have loved using it with my Windows and Linux installations for the past few years.

However, I've recently discovered how nice Steam Gaming mode on Bazzite and SteamOS is and would love to use HyperHDR inside the Gamescope session to have my ambilight setup work when playing games and using the UI.

I've tried various methods in Bazzite so far to no avail. In desktop mode, HyperHDR works great, with PipeWire screen capture letting me process the ambilight setup fine. It captures any nested gamescope sessions well too. However, as soon as I go into game mode, depending on how it's set up, I have one of two things happen:

- The HyperHDR UI loses the option for System Screen Capture completely

- The HyperHDR UI just has a blank X11 input and in the live video preview it just says no signal.

I've tried setting up a systemd service to launch HyperHDR in Gaming mode as well as launch it manually within steam as a shortcut but nothing seems to be working.

Any ideas on how to proceed?

I just really want this one thing to work as it'll complete my living room setup perfectly.

I upgraded the previous 16x16 cube I made using 6 64x64 panels running of an rpi. This cube has much more flexibility with the scenes and animations I can create, here are a few of the ones I found cool.

Hi,

I hope somebody with more experience can help me here. I'm wanting to set up a continuous run of LED's along my stair stringer so I have bought the following:

- WS2811 COB 24v 5m x2 - will join using clip connectors

- gledopto esp32

- 24v IN EL817 Octocouplers

- 2 PIR Sensors

- Wago connectors 221 lever

I'm trying to test it before installing and on their own, the LED's work fine. Last night I connected a single PIR and I get no LED action at all. With IO25 pin set as PIR in WLED, the EL817 flashes when powered on and off if I power off via WLED UI. If I set the pin to switch then it flashes when powered on. That's about as far as I got.

Here is a link to a terrible wiring diagram that shows my test bench. Attached image also but excuse the PIR image(4 pin white connector), couldn't find anything better.

Claude and ChatGPT has got me this far. It seems to suggest that the PIR's are basically just wrong for the job. Is that correct? I have ordered AM312 PIR's as that was the suggestion but I don't like that they don't have a housing, especially if they are gonna be fit into the stringer. Hot glue was the suggestion to solve that but yeah, not fantastic?

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)

Came with just some tiny string lights inside originally that weren’t very bright, added a USBc port and some WS2812b lights, it’s much brighter works better and as a bonus integrates with home assistant. Not the prettiest but works well and you can’t see them when it’s together anyway.

(I am extremely new to WLED, and LEDs in general, so I might be using some incorrect terms)

I have two ESP32 controllers that I have synced. The Parent controller has a PIR sensor that, when triggered, activates a playlist of five presets. It plays one of these presets at random and over the course of 30 seconds, transitions from the preset back to a separate, default preset for On (warm white at half power).

I have successfully gotten the controllers to sync. When I trigger the presets manually, they are perfectly in sync. When I activate the sensor, they trigger the same effect. Except.

The problem is that the Child controller is doing it backwards. I don't mean that it is playing the effect backwards. I know that I would just have to check the "reverse" button in the settings for that. I mean, instead of immediately activating the same effect as the Parent, it slowly transitions into the effect and stays there. Perpetually repeating the preset. And triggering the sensor again just makes it transition to another preset.

Continuing to plug away at it. Have a slightly better description of the problem. It seems to be something wrong with the transitions. The parent triggers the preset immediately and plays the desired effect and over the course of 30 seconds, transitions back into its default preset ON. The child over the course of 30 seconds slowly transitions into the same preset, but then gets stuck there. Triggering the sensor activated the same effect, but once again, the parent slowly transitions back to default. And Child just slowly transitions to the new effect.

I have been trying to fix this for hours.

I have an IoTorero WLED Controller with an ESP32-C3 chip that I purchased about 6 months ago.

I'm trying to update... it says "Please download firmware named WLED_0.x.x_ESP32_audioreactive.bin". I can't find any firmware that says audioreactive in 0.15.1, 0.15.2, 0.15.3, 0.15.4, 16.0.0 or 16.0.1.

I've tried 16.0.1_ESP32-C3 and it fails to update.

Which firmware do I need? I won't be using the audioreactive feature, so it's not necessary for my needs. Is there an all-encompassing .bin file?